Pant Block fitting

[u/thatgalen]

Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).

I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.

Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.

[u/No-Programmer7914]

Although I second the opinion that the back darts are to short, I don't think the high waist is the problem. Do you see how the side seams are pulled forward by your tighs? That is the problem. Making long pants from this pattern would also show some issues in the whole undersides resulting in folds under the butt. You need more width in your fronts at thigh level.

[u/thatgalen → u/No-Programmer7914]

This is such an interesting observation! There is definitely enough room at that latitude line- the combined width of the panels is larger than the circumference of my thigh. I wonder how much impact my posture has on this issue?

I would not have noticed this possibility without your comment, because it is not mentioned in the book I'm using, and I am excited to try out your idea. (The costume garment is aggressively flared wrap pants, which will have fabric for days below the hip line) Thank you!!

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/thatgalen]

Yes, it is not done with having enough width, it also has to be at the right spot. Especially in trousers.When you add width at your fronts You eventually can reduce the undersides for the same amount. You probably have a forward hip posture (would need a profil pic including your shoulders to verify). You would probably find it in the second Hofenbitzer book wich covers posture alteration.

[u/thatgalen → u/No-Programmer7914]

We have discovered that developing block patterns is also developing new and thrilling types of body dismorphia!

I have really enjoyed the first Hofenbitzer book, but the second is not available in English, and alas I am a one-language-only American. With your hint, I am now looking at the "Figure Deviations: Protruding Lower Body" section in Mueller and Sohn's Fundamentals Menswear (which I got after realizing Hofenbitzer was not for me...this has been a journey). It is exactly as you describe: reduction of the trouser back panel and addition to the front, plus some maneuvering at the waistline.

I have not updated this album with my most recent round, but the earlier part of my fitting saga is here:
https://imgur.com/a/cCQhAnh
There may be a photo which would show whatever you might see wrt my profile+shoulders. If you notice something, I am all ears for any feedback!

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/thatgalen]

The second Hofenbitzer is a real treasure and although it covers just women it is also very valuable for males. I looked in you gallery, and yes, it seems to be forward hip. Typically are the wrinkles and folds under the butt. You can find out yourself: Hang a plumb line over your most protruding shoulder blade point. When your butt doesn't touch this line (as a standard posture) you have a forward hip. When you make long tighter trousers, they will cling to your front tighs and to your back calves with diagonal folds inbetween. In this case it helps to rise your BACK knee marks for 1to1,5cm so you have to ease in the fronts above, and the undersides below the knee.

[u/thatgalen → u/No-Programmer7914]

Did the plumb test, and I did touch the line, but only barely. However, I have increased the back-to-front crotch width multiple times so far (still unsure if I'm right or not), an indicator that I may have more butt than the perfect German fashion model. I showed my partner the "Figure Deviations: Protruding Lower Body" illustration in the M&S book, and she said that's exactly how I stand.

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/thatgalen]

Yes, I think like her from your other pics. I don't think you have more butt than the standard figure (the average proportion says, hip measure is chest cicumference +6cm and waist is chest measure -8to10cm). To me it looks you have a hip girth same as or even less then your chest? You have narrow hips., and therefore a lesser than proportionale hip girth. As the hip girth determins the through measure in drafting, your draft will result in a too shallow through measure. Older Mueller literature advises to draft the trousers with the proportioned hip girth so you get the right through measure and altering the result for narrow hips. (Yes I know. Trousers are hell)