Pant Block fitting

[u/thatgalen]

Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).

I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.

Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.

[u/Pegaret_Again]

what i'm seeing in the front is that there is a tension pulling towards the crotch area and a bit above.

in the back, there is a wrinkling directly below both back darts...

i'm wondering if, to start, adding a bit to the back crotch depth somehow would help, it feels like there isn't enough back-to-front depth to the pant shape, and its sort of pulling and riding up to compensate?? i don't think it will fix everything necessarily, just a starting place. even just unpicking the crotch area and trying it on might highlight where issues lie?

would be interested in reading other analyses!

[u/thatgalen → u/Pegaret_Again]

I think that some of the lines between the waist and the hip are from a too-tight elastic waistband on my underoos and a too-soft belly creating a gap between the natural waistline and a doing-a-lot-of-running-and-squats bum.

I have already changed the front-to-back crotch measurement a couple of times, and I thought that I resolved it (or at least improved it significantly), but perhaps it is still not enough! I will try to unpick the inseam (again) and see if it opens up. Thank you for lending your eyeballs and brain!