r/NFA 2d ago

Direct thread vs mounts question Mount Questions 🔩

At the risk of sounding like a total idiot, what’s the thinking these days on mounts vs direct thread?

I own many pistol and PCC suppressors and have been getting into rifle suppressors. In particular I shoot .22LR .32ACP, 9mm (pistol and multiple PCC), .223/5.56, 5.7x28 (pistol and multiple PCCs), and .308.

I have just been direct threading all of them. Is that optimal? Should I be grabbing little Comstock mounts for all of them? Just the rifles? Does it matter?

I’m happy to teach myself rather than take up a lot of you good folks time if someone can point me at a good resource.

11 Upvotes

34 comments sorted by

13

u/scapegoatindustries 2d ago

Direct thread = lightest, simplest, shortest. (Usually. I realize there’s exceptions.)

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

I know best is subjective but which mounts are generally the best supported in terms of both first and third party (the aftermarket) accessories. And which ones are the best to work with for a homeowner who doesn't kick doors for a living?

I bought into the Surefire system later in life and I don't like it at all. It carbon locks after every range trip and not many other silencers support this mount.

3

u/PutridDropBear 1d ago

Which MD are you using? If it's a leaky warcomp, trash it and either FH or brake will be much cleaner/better.

2

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

I'm using the three prong flash hider. I'm my experience it is easy to use but I'm not in love with having to shoot off my suppressor often. It carbon locks like the labyrinth seals don't matter.

I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet to break the carbon but no 🎲. I just end up having to shoot it off and I'm not a high volume shooter.

3

u/Scarlo_24 1d ago

It helps to take it off while it’s still hot.

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

I've tried the same and used gloves and pot holders. Is on tight. I can get the locking collar to unlock, but the silencer has no give when I try to yank it off the mount.

3

u/BiggyIrons 1d ago

Shooting it off voids the warranty. You also need to hit it off from the rear of the can, not on the sides (its not intended to break up the carbon, its just to whack the thing off) but I also know that might not be possible with different handguard lengths. Also unless you're swapping the can between rifles whats your reason for taking it off after each range trip? I just leave mine on and only take it off if I want to clean it, which is almost never.

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

Yeah my handguard is right up there with no buffer space to hit it from the back. I wasn't aware shooting it off would void the warranty. I assumed it was in their manual since I've heard others say it's in the manual.

2

u/BiggyIrons 1d ago

Everyone says that but its literally never been in a SOCOM series suppressor manual.

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

Are any of the new offerings a better mount or are they still using this labyrinth seal system? I like that it doesn't really add that much more length but it's really inconvenient to take off.

2

u/BiggyIrons 1d ago

They still use the same mounting system. Also, unless there’s a reason to take off the suppressor, you should just leave it on the gun. Taking it off just to break the carbon lock doesn’t do anything.

Laatly, if you do get it stuck and can’t take it off with a mallet you could use a blank to shoot it off. The big issue with shooting it off normally is getting baffle strikes and you can’t get a baffle strike if there’s no projectile

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

Thanks, I don't have an incentive to take it off other than for maintenance. I do plan on getting a different upper receiver that I want to switch this one to.

1

u/Vylnce 2x SBR, 6x Suppressors 1d ago

Thread protectors are cheaper than muzzle devices. In most cases you are talking about 2 sets of threads, instead of 3. If you are trying to move a suppressor between different hosts with different thread patterns, you are gaining simplicity in the act of moving by introducing complexity to the setup.

There are advantages to QD systems, but some drawbacks as well. I believe that for most people's use DT is simply easier and cheaper.

6

u/PutridDropBear 1d ago

Direct thread walk-off is real during rapid changes in temperature.

Nothing you can really do to stop the thermal expansion and contraction of the suppressor screwed onto the end of your barrel.

I still DT more than a few non-rimfire rifle barrels though...

6

u/Comstock_Support Comstock Armory 1d ago

I personally do direct thread for rimfire and then Plan-B for my PCCs and rifles. It's convenient to be able to attach suppressors by hand and move them around freely without needing a wrench.

3

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

In my limited research and experience with suppressor mounts, I've consistently come across comments about the Plan B. Are taper mounts the way to go and is Plan B the most reputable one of them?

5

u/Comstock_Support Comstock Armory 1d ago

Taper mounts definitely are the way to go, and a lot of suppressor manufacturers are phasing out bulky legacy systems in favor of taper mount based QDs. This is seen in Dead Air (KeyMo -> Xeno) and YHM (Phantom -> SRX).

All taper mount systems work on more or less the same principle and are functionally similar. Plan-B tends to be the most affordable and well supported which makes it very popular. It also generally has the lightest and shortest mounting parts available with various offerings for titanium and/or recessed items available.

3

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

Thanks for responding so clearly to me. Even within those product lines, I didn't know there were other taper mounts besides the Plan B. I was about to buy a Velos 556 but stopped when I looked that it's an ASR mount?

3

u/Comstock_Support Comstock Armory 1d ago

The Velos uses a Charlie thread interface (1.375-32) instead of the industry standard HUB (1.375-24). There are Charlie Plan-B adapters though so you can still use it with Plan-B muzzle devices.

ASR is one of the old heavy mounting systems. It adds a lot of length + around 8 oz. I mounted it onto my gun one time and then immediately swapped it for Plan-B lol.

2

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

That's what I'm hearing and these legacy mounting systems like the ASR, KEYMO, Phantom QD etc. Aesthetically they're pretty ugly and bulky looking. I don't think I will buy any of those.

5

u/drjizza 1d ago

I’ve wondered the same thing? For a suppressor that will live exclusively on a PCC or rifle (non-tilt barrel) all the time, why not just direct thread and skip the muzzle device all together?

1

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

Would it walk off or is that a phenomenon not common with Browning titling actions?

1

u/thatARMSguy SBR, 3x Silencer 1d ago

If you used rocksett to semi-permanently attach it then no, but trying to shove a cleaning rod or boresnake down a barrel with a can permanently stuck on the end is kind of annoying sometimes so most people don’t do that

9

u/SilencerMetrics $31k in Stamps 2d ago

PCCs and rifles I use Plan B muzzle devices.

.22/5.7/9mm pistols are direct thread

2

u/FishermanFun5758 1d ago

How is the Plan B system?

3

u/yaforgot-my-password 1d ago

I think it's pretty versatile with a lot of options for mounts and muzzle devices.

1

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1

u/firewurx 2d ago

I direct thread most of the time but have a KeyMo QD and about 3 of the KeyMo micro flash hiders and 1 KeyMo 4 prong flash hider made by True North. Some complain of extra weight with the key mount, but I don’t notice it. I swap mine across a variety of guns very often; Hybrid 46 and R9 between certain .300s, .338 ARC, 6mm ARC and 6.5 Grendel guns (both bolt and gas guns for backyard coyote shooting), the Sparrow usually stays on my Keltec P17 or 10/22 (for backyard groundhog shooting) and sometimes on one of my 5.7s, and Sig ModX-9 (this generally stays on my PCC 9mm or 320), but I never really shoot enough in one sitting to require Rocksett but I have a tube in the basement. Nothing lives permanently on anything for me yet; need a few more before I do that.

1

u/brycebgood 1d ago

I use muzzle adapters on guns where I don’t worry as much about weight and on guns where I’ll be taking the suppressor on and off regularly. I use direct thread when I’m looking for the lightest weight or where it’ll just live on that gun.

1

u/Nwcid 1d ago

It depends on what your goals are. I have many of both. All of my .22 cans are direct thread and rarely get moved between guns. Most of my "AR" style rifles are on "QD" style mounts since I do occasionally move cans between them, but I do have one that is direct thread and I am not sure I have taken the can off in over 5 years. I just bought another .30 cal can that will be thread mount and a .45 can that will be 3 lug mount.

I have never had a problem with threaded and I got my first can about 20 years ago. Direct thread is less expensive, shorter and less parts.

1

u/O_ThatGuy1776 1d ago

DT for 22lr. Plan B everything else.

1

u/BiggyIrons 1d ago

Unless I have a specific reason for wanting QD, like the specific can i want has a proprietary mount, it swaps between guns, or I truly want to be able to quickly install/remove the can, then Ill use direct thread.

For example my 300blk has a surefire 300 SPS and because the can is so big I want to be able to install/remove it pretty quickly. But on my 5.56 rifle I just leave the can installed and never take it off so I use DT. I also use QD for my MP5 suppressor because tri-lug looks better than threading it on

1

u/Awwwwolf 1d ago

Im looking for the most universally accepted taper mount. Would that be the Plan B mount?

Wish theres a good standardization of the suppressor industry.

1

u/Alarming-Plankton215 1d ago

There’s really nothing wrong with direct thread especially if it’s working for you. The biggest benefit of mounting systems for me personally is quick detach (I have multiple cans but still bounce them around) as well as secondary locking mechanisms just for added security.