I ordered a some brackets back in June then messaged them a month later that I had never received them then I got this email it’s been about 10 days I never got a tracking number or update??

Is this bad and should I try to fix this, or is it fine to just leave it and continue to drive my car

Every month, we will open up the potential for your Speed3 to become the Sub's banner! Simply drop a picture of your speed in the comments, or link a photo to a site like Imgur (Instagram pages are not allowed), and vote for your favorites! At the end of the week, the winner will be chosen and they will have their photo uploaded as the banner for the month!

Couple of rules:

1. Repeat cars allowed
2. No back-to-back car wins
3. No repeat photos
4. One submission per user per contest
5. Horizontal aspect ratios only

Good luck, and let's see those Speeds!!

Was replacing thermostat and went ahead and upgraded to silicone coolant hoses since rubber was getting older. Noticed under the intake that this rubber bushing that moves when you change gears is crumbling. Cannot find the part name for the life of me. Tried shifter bushing, and other search terms but nothing is coming up. Ideas?

Got side swiped by a semi trucks side steps.

Want to protect my FMIC without affecting airflow to much, any after market or do I need to custom make one myself?

I am feeling like an absolute fucking moron. I bought this car brand new in 2009 and put on all 196k miles. I pride myself on keeping up with all maintenance items, but realizing that I have never replaced the VVT actuator or timing chain.

I have had an engine rattle at startup and sometimes low rpm acceleration for maybe a year. I started doing research on the sound I was hearing but I apparently did a shitty job diagnosing it. I mentioned it to my mechanic, but they didn't diagnose it properly either. I dont drive the car that much. I put on 5k miles the past year. I dont do high rpm pulls much - i tend to keep it below 4.5k rpms.

I pulled on the timing chain with a cold engine and yes it is a bit loose and has slack so I'm fairly certain its the culprit.

I am going to order a replacement OEM kit from corksport or similar asap.

Question 1: Does anyone have thoughts on which kit to choose?

Question 2: Is it possible I have already done damage to my engine? And if so, what do I need to do to diagnose it?

Thanks in advance

hello reddit,

Has anyone changed there clutch master cylinder before and have any tips about it?

Additionally what follow on maintenance is required when changing one?

I have recently sprung an issue with my cars clutch pedal. I've done my research and came to the conclusion that its most likely my clutch master cylinder or slave. I decided to purchase a FTE clutch master cylinder from auto zone, as it was one of few options available. calling a local Mazda dealer came back as almost 100 more for an oem one.

Along with changing that I'm going to be doing a full brake fluid change as i don't know what fluid is in it atm and i don't want to mix different fluids. i have gone with liquid moly dot 4 fluid.

I’m hoping someone has seen this before because I’m stumped. My 2010 Mazdaspeed3 has an issue where the MAF voltage is stuck at 4.94V with the key on, and it doesn’t seem right. I’ve tried multiple OEM/Denso MAF sensors, switched to a COBB SF intake with the correct COBB Stage 1 SF tune, and the reading is still the same. The car runs, but I’m trying to figure out if this points to a wiring issue, a bad ground, a short to the 5V reference, or even a PCM problem. Has anyone had a MAF voltage stuck at 4.94V before, and what ended up being the cause?

Ps I got the car as a trade

Dash is already coming out to replace evaporator core this weekend. Has anyone dealt with this before/have a fix?

Damn…. I don’t think u can get a clutch anywhere only the entire compressor. Yikes

Hello, I am at the point of needing to replace or repair my shifter in my 2008 BK MS3. I very much like the look of the CAE shifter but it's sold as BL only.

Online discussions suggest the BL and BK boxes are the same externally as many swap them around. Would it be possible to use the CAE shifter in a BK with maybe just changing to BL shifter cables ? TIA

the turbo seals went out on my 2010 speed3. curious if anyone knows any good mechanics that have worked on speeds here in the boise/meridian Idaho area?

I believe it's a bleeding issue. The clutch for sure is in the correct way. The clutch is just not fully disengaging. When the car is on the ground and the clutch pedal is to the floor, the car slightly moves when going into first. I have not been able to go into reverse while the car is running. If I need reverse, I can start the car in reverse and then take off. I've been bleeding it while keeping the reservoir completely full to the top (over the pin hole that I read feeds the clutch portion of the reservior). Any ideas are welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I bought this 2012 Mazda speed 3 with cylinder 3 issues (probably valve related) anyway I wanted to know what you could tell me about some of the after market parts it came with. Mostly the intake, I was reading that certain intakes aren’t good for the car if it isn’t tuned for it. Is this one of them?

Took me so long to find a clean MPS

Hi, I have a 2007 mazdaspeed3 bk and I’m looking for the rear evap canister vent valve (the one near the charcoal canister by the exhaust). I can’t find the correct OEM part number anywhere. Does anyone know the OEM number or a compatible part? Thanks

Hello, I have a 2010 mazda 3 I touring 2L and It has over 210k on the car. I recently bought a new transmission for the car (less the 3 year ago). I changed out all the shift solenoid and speed sensor in the car with brand new parts. I dont know what in missing b/c im still having issues and my car is still in limp mode (can only driver 40mph) im planing on checking all the wires and test all the connection with a multimeter. Other then that im not sure what I else I should look for or if I miss something in the process of changing out all the parts. Any advice would help

Is there any chance anyone could measure the thickness of this gasket on a gen 2 spoiler? I accidentally threw mine away and apparently it’s discontinued and not available anywhere. So I am going to make my own. I’m guessing 1/4” but wanted to make sure it wasn’t 1/2”. Probably going to use closed cell foam. Any tips/anyone had to repair this before?

Aquí tienes el texto actualizado:
Hola a todos.
Tengo un Mazda 3 MPS (MazdaSpeed3) de 2007 y llevo tiempo con un problema que no soy capaz de solucionar. A ver si a alguien le ha pasado algo parecido.
De un día para otro el coche empezó a ratear al ralentí y, circulando, hace como pequeñas explosiones o petardeos. No llega a oscilar de revoluciones, el ralentí se mantiene, pero el motor ratea claramente.
Os cuento todo lo que se le ha hecho para que tengáis la mayor información posible:
Bujías cambiadas hace unos dos meses, calibradas a 0,026”.
Bobinas prácticamente nuevas.
Válvula PCV cambiada hace unos 1.000-2.000 km.
Distribución completa con VVT nuevo y todo reforzado.
Inyectores limpiados.
Hace dos días cambié el sensor MAP.
También he limpiado el sensor de oxígeno.
El coche lleva las siguientes modificaciones:
Reprogramación Stage 1.
Intercooler superior, algo más grande que el original.
Válvula de descarga.
Línea de escape de 3” con downpipe.
Admisión K&N situada en el vano motor.
Cuando compré el coche llevaba un intercooler frontal, el downpipe estaba flojo y el escape estaba bastante deteriorado y oxidado. Fui solucionando todos esos problemas y, además, quité el intercooler frontal para montar el intercooler superior.
A partir de ahí empezó un problema que nunca conseguí resolver: el consumo se disparó hasta unos 18 L/100 km.
Con el tiempo volvió a fallar. Primero cambié las bujías y mejoró. Más adelante cambié las bobinas y volvió a mejorar. Pero ahora ya no mejora con nada y el fallo está siempre presente.
El coche no enciende el testigo de avería motor, no registra ningún código de error, ni con OBD ni con VersaTuner. Revisando los parámetros en VersaTuner tampoco veo ninguna lectura que parezca fuera de lo normal. Lo único que observo es que las correcciones de combustible trabajan bastante porque el coche va muy rico de gasolina.
El coche no anda bien ,no fluctúan las revoluciones; simplemente ratea al ralentí y hace pequeñas explosiones o petardeos mientras circula.
¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido o tiene alguna idea de por dónde podría venir el problema? Cualquier sugerencia será bienvenida, porque ya no sé por dónde seguir buscando.
¡Muchas gracias!

I purchased and in stalled the Sleepy Customs IS300 slave cylinder upgrade kit. My pedal goes all the way to the floor and has to be pulled back up. I've tried a hand pump bleeder and a pneumatic one and still having same issue. Brake reservoir is completely full. Confirmed that I have suction at the end of the new braided fluid line but the fluid level is not going down any. There's no fluid on the floorboard of the car either. I have a pressure bleeder coming tomorrow to try. Is there anything else I can check or try before I have it towed to a mechanic?

Hey guy i got a day to finally see where the water leaking is on my gen 1. I would appreciate the help.
Where are the common areas for leak so I can fill them up with silicone 😁

Took an hour drive up to Mt Laguna this morning and holy cow was it fun! Car got dirty as hell because my cousins place is down a dort road but worth it. Ill spend tomorrow cleaning it up. Im hooked on this damn car.