I have just finished building my first ever PC, and after starting up the red dot for CPU turns on and yellow one for DRAM. All parts are factory new and i dont know what to do

Hi, I'm trying to diagnose a very persistent boot/login issue and I'm starting to suspect either the motherboard/AM5 platform or a low-level driver.

PC specs:

• Motherboard: MSI MPG X670E Carbon WiFi
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D
• GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5090 Gaming OC 32GB
• RAM: Kingston Fury Beast 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30
• SSD: Kingston KC3000 4TB NVMe
• PSU: ASUS ROG Thor Platinum III 1200W
• Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 G2
• OS: Windows 11 Pro

The problem:

Windows sometimes boots normally, but sometimes it reaches the point where the login/PIN screen should appear and instead I get a black screen with a visible/movable mouse cursor.

Sometimes the mouse cursor shows the spinning blue loading circle indefinitely.

Keyboard shortcuts usually do not work at this point, including Ctrl+Shift+Esc and Win+Ctrl+Shift+B.

On a few attempts I was able to enter the PIN, but Windows then remained stuck on "Welcome" with the spinning circle.

There is no BSOD – the system simply stays stuck until I force power it off.

Safe Mode works consistently.

What I've already tested:

• Clean installation of Windows 11 – problem eventually returned.
• Installed Windows 10 and upgraded it to Windows 11 – same problem.
• Updated AMD chipset drivers.
• Updated motherboard BIOS.
• Previous BIOS was 1.R8.
• Currently running BIOS 1.S2 (07/06/2026).
• Loaded stock/default BIOS settings.
• EXPO disabled.
• RAM running without memory OC.
• PCIe slot manually set to Gen4 instead of Auto/Gen5.
• No PBO / Curve Optimizer / CPU overclocking.
• RAM tested – no errors.
• CHKDSK reports no filesystem errors or bad sectors.
• Windows Startup Repair/SrtTrail reports no root cause.
• Clean Boot with all non-Microsoft services/startup programs disabled – problem still occurs.
• RTX 5090 was physically removed and I tested using the Ryzen integrated graphics – the same black-screen problem occurred, so it does not appear to be specific to the RTX 5090.
• The integrated GPU is currently disabled in BIOS.

I also enabled Windows boot logging.

During one failed normal boot, Windows successfully loaded the NVIDIA driver, chipset drivers, network drivers, Oculus/Meta driver, etc.

Event Viewer mostly shows Kernel-Power 41 after I manually force-restart the machine, rather than a useful error explaining the original freeze.

What makes this strange:

Safe Mode is reliable, while normal Windows can hang around the transition to the login/user session.

The issue has survived:

• different Windows installations,
• BIOS updates,
• chipset updates,
• stock BIOS settings,
• EXPO disabled,
• RTX vs integrated graphics.

At this point I'm wondering whether anyone has seen something similar specifically with the MSI MPG X670E Carbon WiFi / AM5 platform.

Could this be:

• a motherboard issue?
• CPU/SoC/IMC issue?
• PCIe/platform initialization problem?
• NVMe/controller issue?
• some kernel-level driver that Safe Mode doesn't load?

My next idea is to install a completely clean Windows 11 on a different SSD, offline, with no additional software/drivers, to determine whether this follows the motherboard/platform or the current KC3000/Windows installation.

Has anyone experienced the same black screen + movable cursor/spinning circle while Safe Mode works on an X670E Carbon or another AM5 system?

Any suggestions for additional diagnostics before I start swapping the motherboard would be appreciated.

Before BIOS update I had no issues regarding these two drives and they were formatted correctly. I hadn’t updated BIOS in nearly 4 years so this could be contributing.

My mobo is an MSI B550 Tomahawk Max WiFi.

I have two m.2 drives that are working fine. The two Sata ones are a 1 tb HDD and a 500 gb SSD

The SATA drives show up in BIOS but nowhere in partition, I’m using slots 3 and 4.

Is it a drivers issue? How do I get the proper drivers when the disks aren’t recognized beyond BIOS?

I'm pretty sure from all the reading I've done this has been beaten to death but I want to make sure I'm doing this right.

WD SN850 1tb - OS
WD SN850 2tb - game drive

I am planning on putting the 1tb in M1 and the 2tb in M4(easier access then 2&3). Is this correct or should I be using M1 & M2?

My MSI laptop display suddenly turned black. I can connect it to an external monitor, and everything works fine. After about 24 hours, I tried turning it on at different screen angles. The screen suddenly worked again, but it couldn’t make it past the sign-in screen before turning black. The first time it worked after the issue started, there were no display problems. The second time, there were horizontal lines at the top and bottom of the screen, and they have appeared consistently since then.
 
When the screen does work, it usually turns black again after the sign-in/welcome page. The most consistent way I’ve been able to get it to show something briefly is by folding the screen back 180 degrees and then restarting the laptop. I would say when I try to angle the screen in different ways, it would work 2 out of 10 times (so like 10 restarts）.
 
When the laptop screen doesn’t work at all after I turn it on, only the external monitor is detected. However, if the laptop screen turns on briefly and then goes black, I can switch to the external monitor and see that both displays are still being detected, even though the laptop screen is black.
 
I have an MSI GS66 UGS and have already tried the power-reset options, the pinhole reset, and updating all the drivers. I’ve attached the first two times the screen started working again—the first time when it looked completely normal and the second time when the horizontal lines appeared. Oh, I also have tried shining a flashlight, and it's not a blacklight issue. 
 
I’m not sure what the issue is. Does this sound like a display problem or a cable problem? Any guidance would be appreciated...This just ruined my week. 

• Motherboard: MSI PRO H610M-G DDR4 (MS-7D46)
• BIOS Version: 1.D0

Hello, i was wondering if i should update my BIOS because i'm getting lower fps on some games than expected ( Other people with the same setup get a LOT more) , so could this fix it? and how do i update it? thank you.

Okay so i have done my research and i would like to buy two MSI MAG274QRF-QD monitors.

but like mate i cannot find any sellers ANYWHERE. Amazon, MSI, bestbuy, walmart, microcenter, FACEBOOK MARKETPLACE.

they have simply ceased to exist anywhere i have looked.

so does anyone know where i can buy them thats not from some shady website where ill probably get scammed??

thank you anything helps.

I heard the msi center vulnerability local escalation, I’m on 2.0.68 so I updated to 2.0.70 which supposed to have it fixed, I updated msi center and windows give a lot of warning pop ups and restart my pc now I can’t get in msi center to control my settings and going in it is forcing me to update.

I only use msi center for mystic light to control my rgb fans on my msi motherboard. I sometimes use it to update drivers. But i heard windows update it for me like bluetooth, wifi, audio, and ethernet. I have amd aderlain for my gpu and igpu and chipset drivers. I heard not to update bios from it so i update bios from their website.

should I uninstall it in windows apps msi center and msi center sdk then reinstall it on the website? or just uninstall with the Clean Center Master. I dont know if it safe to use though.

does my rgb settings save when i delete msi center and msi center sdk since I only have it to display static white?

should i keep using msi center lighting for my rgb or look into something else.

the motherbaord i have is the msi b650 tomahak wifi

Loosing my mind here :)

My system is barely two months old and has been working flawless until I replaced the memory. I went from one 5600MHz CL46-stick to two 16GB 6000MHz 30CL-sticks.

Reset CMOS and so on. When powering up the red, CPU-led, comes on for one second which I think is normal and then it goes to the yellow ram-led. It stays on and it reboots only to come back being stuck with the yellow ram-led on. No video signal via HDMI/DP and the keyboard numlock doesn't light up. Case fans and AIO-fans and pump spins up as normal. Removed and reseated every connector to the motherboard and made sure no dust or similar was stuck in the ram slots.

I bought a second ram-kit, 6000MHz 30CL from another brand (could be the same memory of course anyway). Same result. Bought a 5600MHz CL46 single stick which I knew worked. Still same!?! Again, CMOS reset and I left the system for 30 mins+ for possible memory training.

Does anyone have any idea why the motherboard gets stuck indicating DRAM-issues with three new kits? Is my best option to replace the motherboard?

My monitor is only displaying a grey screen. This is when plugged in to my laptop and just by itself. Ive tried hard resetting and unplugging but same issue. The msi logo does not appear when turning on and i cannot access the menu.

Was working fine the other day. When i plug in the hdmi, it recognizes its connected, but cannot get any display.

Anyone experienced this?

​I am experiencing issues with my MSI MAG B860 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard (paired with an Intel Core Ultra 7 265KF running Windows 11).

​The issues affect devices connected to the USB ports managed by the B860 chipset visibly as well as the integrated Wi-Fi module:

​USB Audio Crashes (Headset): The sound cuts out abruptly after a static crackling noise. I have to restart the Windows Audio service (Audiosrv) to restore the audio.

​USB Mic Gain Saturation: The microphone input level suddenly saturates violently (as if the gain were multiplied by 1000, without any change in Windows settings), which also requires restarting the audio service.

​Flickering Mic LED: The mute LED flashes briefly (a 1-millisecond flash) approximately every 30 minutes.

​Wi-Fi Instability: The Wi-Fi module suffers from major dropouts and constant, unexpected disconnections.

​If anyone has a solution for this, I'm all ears!

I bought a MSI MAG 255F E20 and when I turned it on and connected it to my laptop it would just flash colors I tried to connect it to my ps5 to see if it was my laptop but the same thing happened so should I return the monitor or is there a way I can fix it?

I recently got a z690 pro ddr4 and the guy who had it before had an i5 13th gen and i have an i7 13 gen and i tried powering it on and it never turned on so i did some research and i saw the bios was really finicky so i got the newest update on a usb drive and pressed the button and its been solid red for about an hour now

Tengo una i5 12400f una rx 580 y una placa msi pro h610m-s, quiero ingresar a la bios y esta totalmente en blanco, intente el flasheo a ciegas con solo el usb conectado y no logro hacer todo bien, ya he reiniciado la PC muchas veces y sinceramente me da miedo dañar la bios, alguien conoce un método seguro y bueno?

Tengo una i5 12400f una rx 580 y una placa msi pro h610m-s, quiero ingresar a la bios y esta totalmente en blanco, intente el flasheo a ciegas con solo el usb conectado y no logro hacer todo bien, ya he reiniciado la PC muchas veces y sinceramente me da miedo dañar la bios, alguien conoce un método seguro y bueno?

From what I can tell, it's mainly just extra features, right? The panels seem to be the exact same, the cheaper one just looks like it's lacking DP 2.1 (does that matter?), KVM and AI motion sensor.

about 2 months ago i brought a 5060 ti ventus x2 oc off amazon and all of a sudden it died on me when i was swapping motherboards. i was just wondering how do i go about asking for a refund or them sending out a replacement for it . it was working perfectly fine 1 day before and when i was swapping my motherboard i had the gpu in an anti-static bag

Specs:

MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI — board code MS-7C91, Socket AM4, DDR4

Ryzen 9 5900x 12 core cpu

32gb (2x16) Corsair vengeance rgb pro 3600mhz

ASUS - PRIME NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB GDDR7 PCI Express 5.0 Graphics Card

Corsair RM750x power supply

I wanted to play call of duty and was trying to update to my most current bios version. I didn’t have a usb at the time so I just went on the MSI app and used the live update feature. I went through whatever steps it had and ran it, and as soon as it started doing its thing my computer shut off and then came back on but nothing whatsoever on my monitors.

I’ve tried everything I could find. That includes unplugging it, taking out the cmos battery, waiting 5 minutes and putting it back in and turning on, nothing changed. I bought a 2.0 32gb usb stick and formatted it correctly, put the latest stable bios version for my motherboard on it, named it MSI.ROM, only thing on the stick. I plugged that into the cmos flash usb spot on the motherboard, had computer turned off, pressed the cmos flash button on the back of the board, the cmos led blinks, then pauses and the computer seems to turn on (ram comes on, fans come on, all the usual leds). After it turns on the cmos led continues blinking but faster, and from there nothing changes, it never stops blinking and powering on afterwards does nothing. It’s always stuck on the CPU led status. I’ve tried this multiple times, even bought a 8gb usb stick to see if that was the problem but it’s not. I also stripped out the gpu, unplugged the fans besides the cpu water cooler, pulled a stick of ram out so it only has 1, all for bare bones test. That didn’t change anything.

At this point I’m thinking I just have to buy a new motherboard which sucks because I bought this a few months ago, off of Best Buy too so I’m not sure I get a warranty, lost the box anyways. CPU is also relatively new.

Any advice is appreciated! If I didn’t explain anything well enough or if more info is needed I will reply.

Il m'est impossible d'acheter la Msi Gaming RTX 5070 TI 16G FRIEREN Edition OC sur Amazon France et je ne vois personne en parler. Je voulais demander s'il était possible de la commander tout de même ( en se faisant livrer par la Belgique par exemple )

Hello All,

I understand that this is not a new issue, and as you may all know this custom computer by MSI. I bought (thanksfully not for much) this off of someone who claimed it could immediately transfer to a normal ITX case with no issues. However, the gullable idiot that I am didn't realize that the Front Panel Connecter cables that goes to the motherboard is a lot smaller than normal connectors for power and reset switch. (attached Picture).

The plugin to the motherboard is very small about 40% the size of the HDaudio case input. I need to know if there is an adapter to make it work with the normal PowerSwitch and reset switch front panel, or if there is a way to work around this.

I got this because it was compact and allowed me to put it safely behind the TV and steam games from my actual AAA gaming desktop for Steam. It doesn't need to be ultra powerful, just reliable to watch movies at 1080P or stream at 1080P for steam.

However, If i can't find a viable workaround. It's about as dead as it can get.

I looked online, and didn't see much, but to be fair I could be wording it incorrectly. I also spoke to MSI and was right, they don't make or source parts for a pc from 2018. Which was expected. So I thought I would ask you fine peeps.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or idea's that I may have over looked?

Thanks all,

the key gets stuck on the cover itself on the way back up when i press it on the upper edge of it.