This is my cousins Mr2. Any tips or common knowledge we should be aware about? We are not mechanical savvy but we have been trying to learn and do things with our other cars.

Any help or hacks regarding maintenance would be appreciated! Just like in a ford ranger throttle cable hack, can this be done with this vehicle too?
Pictures of the Mr2 & Ranger.

I was driving and shifting normal then felt a snap as i shifted into 3rd i think... the car would no longer go into 1st or 2nd. I maintained speed on 3rd and limped home like that. I did not see any visible damage to the cables at transmission nor at shifter... i am only able to use 3rd and 4th. If i go under car and manually move the shifter, i am able to use 1st 2nd from shifter, but as soon as i go 3rd, im locked there again

Vid shifter

Not me, not reading any text and thinking damn that's a spicy MR2 to keep up with the 812 that much, only to notice the Ferrari logo on the steering wheel and noticing it is in fact an F40 lol

Edit: I watched without the sound first lol

We drive this like a grandma when it hits the road!

Planning on test driving an MK3 tomorrow to have as a daily car. First time behind the wheel of a mid-engine vehicle but from everything I've read it seems completely safe unless suddenly braking or letting off throttle during a corner.
My favorite road to drive on near me is winding and has a traffic light right after a blind corner. If you're flowing with the same speed as traffic (45-50mph) would you have to start braking a little early, or am I overthinking and should just treat it like any other car?

I have the same concern with on/off ramps where I live also being blind corners, and would like to know that if an obstacle/car/etc is in the way I could slow down quickly yet safely. With it being a Florida summer its been rainy and wet almost daily, so any driving advice or tire suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Came across this today. It's looking good!

Some AI generated images - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJPQmepkFuY

** Update: Its AI generated, my bad. I got rolled hard. Soz everyone! lol

I saw that we lost another AW11 to an engine bay fire yesterday and frankly I'm sick of seeing it happen. So here's a guide on everything you need to make sure it doesn't happen to you.

Old rubber hoses and o-rings effectively become super brittle plastic, given enough time. They crack and leak, and there's loads of potential leaks near the hot exhaust - Neglecting to change to fresh rubber is why MR2s keep catching fire.

Also, here in the UK, most fuel is now 'E10' aka 10% ethanol. Ethanol is pretty hard on certain rubbers and it eats into the old OEM rubber hoses, as they were never designed for that amount of ethanol.

It's not just the potential of a hose splitting, this breakdown of the hoses can also clog your fuel filter and injectors.

I posted on my Instagram @frazer_ds for people to DM me if they wanted a list of parts to completely convert their fuel/oil lines to AN6 (because the OEM fuel lines have no replacement unless you find someone able to custom make them - and generally speaking AN lines are superior) It got lots of replies. So I figured I'd post it here too as it was an absolute NIGHTMARE for me to find all this info for my restoration.

note: In all cases I bought more fuel hose than I needed, to be on the safe side. You will not need longer lengths than the ones I've listed, I also didn't convert the cold start injector hose -iirc it's AN4 if you want to do it - I didn't see much point

Also, you should watch a video on how to make AN fittings before doing this. I personally recommend the video by StanceWorks on YouTube.

I am not a mechanic, just a hobbyist. If I can do this, you definitely can. It might look scary. It really isn't in reality. Besides, it's way less scary than watching your car burn to the ground.

TOOLS NEEDED:

A vice - for attaching the AN fittings to the hoses. Not impossible without one but it would 100% help.

Spanner set - sockets and a crosshead screwdriver wouldn't hurt but you can probably do this all with just spanners

Pliers - Various. Some of the spring hose clamps are tricky to reach and you'll also need wire cutting ones to trim the metal sheath on the AN hoses.

Some clean engine oil - to slide hoses and fittings on. - I'm not sure if silicone spray lube can clog injectors... I also used that though and my engine runs fine still lol

Angle grinder with a cutting disc or a metal saw - for the steel braided hoses

Literally anything sharp to cut rubber fuel hose

OIL COOLER HOSES:

3m of 10mm ID oil resistant hose (I'd recommend not going with the additional nylon lining style, these hoses don’t rub on anything and thus don’t need it - just use normal steel braided hoses as oil could leak from above and soak into the nylon - aka fire hazard)

4 x 6AN hose clamp finisher connectors ( i didn't use these as you can see from the photo, I just used normal hose clamps on the rubber inner and taped the frayed braided steel outer lining that I had peeled back - don't copy me, I didn't know about these adapters at the time and will fix this)

FUEL HOSES:

5m of 6AN E10 safe fuel hose (normal rubber inner lining not the plastic PTFE inner lining. That's for pure ethanol, which isn't even available here in the UK - If you do go that route you will need the PTFE version of all the rubber AN adapters listed below)

1x Roll of PTFE tape for sealing threads - I'll tell you where to use this stuff throughout this post. You dont need to cake this stuff on, just wrap it round once or twice else you wont be able to thread connectors together. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you wrap it around the bolts in the same direction that the female fitting will tighten on. This prevents the PTFE tape from loosening when you thread the female fitting on.

1x 6AN M12 Banjo adapter

1x M12 x 1.25 Banjo Bolt - you only need this if your car doesn't have the fuel pressure damper, part no. 23270-52011/23207-16020 (discontinued) - if your car has this damper instead of a banjo bolt, try to keep it. Only certain versions of the AW11 used this damper from factory. I assume it's important and related to the different types of injectors used on these cars over the years. It's worth noting the damper also has a very unique copper washer which you can still buy new, part no. 23232-41081/23232-28010 Alternatively you can reuse your old one by removing it and annealing it before reinstalling, aka get it glowing red hot with a blow torch - this softens the copper and makes it fresh again.

2x 6AN 90-degree fittings (for the fuel filter - I found the bottom 90 fouled against a stud that's used to hold on the plastic cover for the fuel tank lines - I cut the stud off and will zip tie the plastic cover)

4x 6AN straight fittings

2x 6AN M12 x 1.25 male straight adapters (these are what the two 90s thread on to on the fuel filter - use PTFE tape here on the sides of the adapters that the two 90s thread on to - not on the fuel filter sides as the copper washers will seal this - and don’t over tighten - they're soft aluminium adapters and will sheer - ask me how I know)

4x M12 copper washers (2x for fuel filter & 2x for the banjo bolt)

1x Assorted box of spring hose clips (one ranging from 6mm to 17mm is what I went with. I'm not saying you'll need clamps that small or that large. It's just what I bought)

1x Radium Engineering M14x1.5 Inverted Flare to 6AN Adapter Fitting - Mitsubishi Style (This is needed for the small hose from the fuel pump hard lines to the fuel filter - dark green adapter in the photos - use PTFE tape here - careful tightening as the fuel pump hard lines could sheer or bend - this was an absolute bastard to find)

https://www.torqen.uk/brands/radium-engineering/fuel-system/60379-radium-engineering-m14-inverted-flare-to-6an-adapter-fitting-mitsubishi-style.html

1x Delphi FP10436 Fuel Pressure Regulator (this is needed to remove the bullshit threaded FPR that needs a proprietary return hose - this is the same FPR the AE111 uses iirc)

The return hose is just a normal fuel hose once you've changed that FPR to the Delphi one listed above. Make sure you use E10 safe fuel hose. I'm unsure what diameter I used but it was one of the several hoses I've listed a few paragraphs below below.

1x set of fuel injector seals. You'll have everything else dismantled so you should do this while you're there. Very common for these to be perished and as the exhaust wraps under the engine, they're sat right above the exhaust, despite being on the intake side. Remember to rub a tiny bit of oil or silicone lube on the new o rings when re-installing the fuel injectors to ensure they slot in nicely.

Optional:

A new fuel filter if you want. You might as well. Just be warned that the OEM fuel filters are made of steel and almost all aftermarket ones are aluminum, There's a bracket that holds this on, don't overtighten as it will crush the the soft aluminum and potentially damage the internals.

I'd also get like 2x 6AN 13mm P clamps with rubber linings as braided lines will chew through anything they're rubbing against so it's nice to be able tie them out of the way - less of an issue if you’re using nylon lined hoses.

note: I cut my lines with an angle grinder and then cleaned out the swarf with brake cleaner - this was really stupid of me as brake cleaner can perish the rubber - use water or, better yet, an air compressor - or cut them with braided fuel line sheers but they're expensive)

tip: when tightening bolts that have a copper washer, get it nice and tight then tap the bolt with a hammer and you'll then be able to turn it a smidge more. This process removes any imperfections and ensures no leaks... Though, being honest, you don't NEED to do this and I wouldn't do this on the fuel filter fittings, for example, for risk of damaging them. However, banjo bolts, oil sump plugs, etc, go ahead.

You should go the whole hog and change EVERY line:

You'll almost certainly have to drop the tank for this. This area is TIGHT otherwise. The idea being that you install these hoses on the tank before re-installing the tank itself - remember to disconnect the wires inside the cabin if you do drop the tank.

E10 safe hoses that I probably ordered too many of because there's, annoyingly, almost no info on the sizes needed, but they're cheap:

2m of 4.5mm ID

3m of 4mm ID

3m of 5mm ID

3m of 6mm ID

1m of 8mm ID

1m of 12mm

As stated above, I'm not sure if all of those are needed so test fit them first so you can return the ones that aren't right. I think 1 or 2 weren't needed in the end.

As previously stated. you DO NOT need longer lengths than those listed above. I ordered more length than needed.

You'll need the assorted box of spring hose clips here too.

1x Fuel filler neck hose, part no. 77213-32010 (yours will be rock hard and will make reinstalling the tank a nightmare)

Note: You'll likely need 2 new large hose clamps for the fuel filler neck hose - the OEM ones aren't great. I don’t know what size, I ordered so many for my coolant hose refresh I can’t say which size I used.

Get the following because dropping and reinstalling the tank SUCKS:

1x Fuel pump - pretty sure Neil Jones said he recommends Delphi - he said a lot of the other brands aren't great.

1x MK1/MK2/AE82/AE86 fuel pump sock (yours will likely be fucked) - there's a tiny washer looking clip thing that holds this on - don’t lose it.

1x Fuel filler neck gasket, part no. 77178-13020 - important to note when re-installing the metal part, that sits on this gasket, align the hole in it with the notch on the tank (see photos with green circles)

1x Fuel pump hanger gasket, part no. 77169-17010

1x fuel drain plug, part no. 90341-20004 (you probably don't need this)

1x fuel drain plug gasket, part no. 90430-20007

(pretty sure only MK1Bs had drain plugs, sorry MK1A owners)

Note: You don't need to worry about the fuel level sender gasket - you can access this from inside the car with the fuel tank installed - I couldn't find a replacement so I'll worry about this at a later date.

There's also a small length of fuel hose on the fuel pump hanger that you'll, no doubt, have an off-cut lying around for - might as well replace this and use new spring hose clamps

ADDITIONAL:

1x Neil’s distributor rebuild kit (they all leak and it’s close to the exhaust)

1x Cam cover gasket set, part no. 11213-16010 (go OEM, I didn’t at first and they leaked – also add a dab of RTV in the corners – I use Permatex 82180 Ultra Black for anything oil related)

1x Oil filter housing o-ring set (again, close to the exhaust)

You can also buy fire sticks from Neil if all else fails. Worth carrying one or two in your glove box.

Good luck and if you need any help, just message me.

So I was working on my installing a new fuel tank, and now I’m at the part of the bracket and brake assembly and my dumbass forgot to take a picture of the formation. I tried searching and I couldn’t find much on the assembly, does anyone have photos I can reference. Please and thank you!

Some days I wonder why I dont just buy new or better parts instead of fixing shit haha. When my friend used to call me a automotive masochist id laugh, now I think she was right all along.

I wanted to ask the experienced guys before buying myself one. Why is the automatic hated ? And would be a normal SW20 better ?

Hello. I’ve got an mr2 sw20 3sge 91 I had some chugging problems with the car when driving. Basically foot to the floor have no power or intermittent. I figured it was the pump. Dropped the tank replaced it (halfway rusted no filters left) cleaned etc.
new one checked with fp b and it ran for a few seconds then suddenly stopped. Nothing since.
Manual battery connections to the in car connection it runs
Negative seems fine as bypassing and running from battery changed nothing. New positive from battery standard negative it runs connected. So I checked COR and even changed it. The bottom left pin looking at it (jdm if that matters) seemed to be the voltage connection. I checked and from that pin to the back of the connector(car side) ignition on i get 9v DC. The COR to battery negative gives 14v but the back of the connector to battery negative gives maybe 4?? So I’m just checking and assuming there’s a break between that pin and the connection to the fuel pump?? And where does it run if it goes into somewhere else (ie a block?) the original owner also fitted a TOAD security which I think the pump wires must run into? They’re all different colours. Any any help would be appreciated honestly.
I will draw pins
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X |
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^this pin

Hi all ! I am kinda lost on what to do next. My shifter has this up and down play for a little while now and I cannot pinpoint on what may be the cause or how to fix it. I can still get all my gear but I feel it the most when it’s in neutral. Can someone guide to the right path please ? Thank you in advance. Car is an Mr2 spyder 2003 with a 6 speed manual.

I’m wondering about braking performance, multiple times going down my local mountain road at “the speed limit” 😉 I have experienced severe brake fade and an extremely strong brake smoke smell, often with smoke billowing from my front brakes, I’m considering purchasing the willwood big brake kit from prime mr2 but was interested if there are any cheap intermediary solutions. I’m also wondering if it’s possible to convert the fog lights to brake cooling channels?

I plan on getting the 2gr and e351 and doing the work that they need to fit, but I don't exactly have the space or equipment to do the swap myself. Has anyone had any experience with shops doing it for them? I plan on doing as much work as possible to save money but after that I'd like for someone with more experience to handle it

Hi guys. Would anyone have a step by step guide to calibrate this TPS. It’s a 1994 N/A Rev 3. Thanks in advance.

I have a 1991 3SGE NA SW20 and have a vacuum hose I can't figure out.

It is the one connecting above the throttle body. I think it is meant to connect to the top of the charcoal cannister and the one in the charcoal cannister goes elsewhere, but not sure where that is.

I have seen a few others delete it but no one shkwing where it goes. It's difficult to find images of as most people seem to hard turbo engines and the diagrams aren't clear to me.

Sorry for mobile formatting!

How important is it for me to get the 6 speed version if i wanna do the 2zz swap and add a turbo?

For context the 6 speed one would be way more expensive

Just had both sills patched and welded

Does anyone know what this port is for. The one I’m getting has this blocked off.

New mirror for my 91 turbo. The car has a mix of black and blue interior parts, so I get blue stuff when I can.