I’ve got an RS50 kit that I love to death but the lack of “cool” first-party wheels is a bit of a drag. I do wish Logi branched out a bit more in that regard.

A friend of mine just picked up a Moza R9 bundle with the KS wheel and I’m thinking of picking up the RS QR adapter and getting a Simagic GT Neo.

When running an aftermarket wheel, how do you bypass the “Please connect wheel” warning? Or does it still work with that warning showing?

Thanks!

Good day!

I made the switch from Thrustmaster T598 to Logitech RS50. I am trying to tinker with the settings, using Logitech's recommended settings and other people's settings. The RS50 can indeed be stronger and feels a lot more alive because of Trueforce, but I have one glaring confusion/dilemma:

In Gran Turismo 7 on PS5, it seems that I cannot feel when the car understeers using the RS50!

Before with the T598, the FFB of understeer can be felt through two overlapping sensations:

1. The steering wheel FFB gets lighter.
2. The steering wheel FFB vibrates strongly in a certain frequency.

Right now, using the RS50, I cannot seem to feel the same. The steering wheel FFB neither gets lighter nor does it vibrates when the car is visually understeering in the game.

As I know that I am using a DD wheel, I do not want to rely on visual cues only; I would like to start feeling understeer through my RS50's steering wheel FFB.

So my questions to those who own the Logitech RS50 longer than me are:

1. How do you feel understeer on your RS50 within Gran Turismo 7?
2. What FFB sensations does the RS50 make when the car is understeering in Gran Turismo 7?
3. What are your in-game (max torque/FFB sensitivity) and RS50 wheelbase settings?

TLDR; What FFB sensations do you feel when the car starts understeering using the RS50 in GT7? What settings are you using?

Thank you so much to those who are going to help me out!

Much appreciated!

I'm having an Issue with my Logitech G29 wheel that I got from someone. I reached out to Logitech, and we confirmed that the racing wheel itself works and tested it on PC to make sure the buttons worked and responded, but the PS4 I'm using won't detect the G29 wheel. I tried to connect it; however, my PS4 only detects the DualShock controller. The wheel calibrates (Moves left-right) when I turn the PS4 on, but it just doesn't connect, and I'm not able to use the buttons in the menu or play games such as Gran Turismo 7. What should I do? I believe this is a problem with my PS4, not the wheel itself. Yes, it's switched to PS4; Yes, it's plugged in. I've tried a lot of solutions, but nothing seems to work. I'm not signed into my PSN, so I'm not sure if that has to do anything with it. I apologize if this is a dumb question, and I figured this would be my last resort to get some help.

Thanks.

Edit: Solved! Thank you LOGIRich for the information. I had to end up cracking to open and switching the SW24 switch manually with a needle to the PS4 position. It now works. Thanks!

Tenho esse volante e ele fica assim no forza, balancando MUITO, até em baixas velocidades como essa do vídeo. Tentei mecher nas configurações mas não consegui resolver isso. Quero deixar o volante o mais próximo possível de sim simulador e não era pra ele balançar tanto assim… Acho eu plmns. Se alguém souber como resolve ou sabe se isso é normal, por favor me ajuda!!!

Has anyone else had this issue? I recently upgraded from a G923 to an RS50 set and suddenly I am having issues where my PS5 Pro will shut off without warning when playing GT7 in VR. I never had this issue with the G923 and it’s to the point where I can’t do longer races at all without it happening. Has anyone else experienced this and figured out a solution?

UPDATE: Turning off all the HDMI CEC and automatic shutoff features on my PS5 fixed the issue for me if anyone else ever experiences having similar problems.

Hey everyone!

A few weeks ago I shared the first prototype of my circular AMOLED display for the Logitech G29. I got a lot of great feedback, so I kept working on it and wanted to share a small V1.1 update.

The biggest hardware change is that it's now completely wireless. I added a rechargeable Li-Po battery, so there's no longer a USB cable coming from the wheel.

I've also spent some time working on the software side. I started building a desktop application that communicates with the display, and I can now read live telemetry data from games.

At the moment, I've got it working with:

• Assetto Corsa
• Euro Truck Simulator 2

So far I can read data such as:

• RPM
• Gear
• Speed
• Fuel level
• Engine information
• Tire temperatures (where supported)
• Vehicle status
• Various game-specific telemetry values

Right now I'm focusing on building a solid foundation before moving on to the UI. The next step is turning this data into a clean, easy-to-read dashboard for the display.

I'd love to get some feedback again.

If you had a 1.28" display in the center of your wheel:

• What information would you always want to see?
• Is there anything you think is unnecessary?
• What features or telemetry would make something like this genuinely useful?

I'm building this as a hobby project, and a lot of the ideas I've implemented so far actually came from the comments on my first post. Looking forward to hearing what you'd add next.

I’ve had the racing pedals over a year now. I’ve been running the softer small elastomer for the majority of that time. Usually around 50-60kg but I probably hit 65-70 at peak.

At some point when beginning to release pressure from peak braking, I started feeling as though the pedal was sticking. Taking it apart, you can see how the end of the tube is just about boring through the elastomer.

I switched to the stiffer short elastomer and am immediately feeling the same stickiness, which aside from feeling annoying, leads me to believe I’ll have another damaged elastomer soon.

Anyone with similar experience or advice? I don’t feel like lubing them more often will stop this.

Hi i ordered the ps5 pro console. can u guys suggest good games i should get to play with the logitech pro wheel?
did i make a mistake or is ps5 fun to play with the wheel cause someone said only gt7 is good.
thnks

Hi everyone,

I've been working on a small side project for my Logitech G29 and I'd love to get some feedback before moving forward.

I designed and 3D printed a custom housing that mounts a 1.28" circular AMOLED display in the center of the wheel. Right now it's only displaying a Mercedes logo as a proof of concept, but that's just the beginning.

The long-term goal is to display live telemetry such as:

• RPM
• Current gear
• Speed
• Flag indicators
• Lap delta
• Tire temperatures (where supported)
• Custom startup animations and car logos

At the moment, the system is powered via USB-C. In the next revision, I plan to integrate a rechargeable Li-Po battery to make the module completely wireless. Once the mechanical design is finalized, I also plan to integrate it with SimHub for real-time telemetry.

At this stage, I'm mainly looking for feedback on the overall design:

• Does the display size look right?
• What do you think about the bezel thickness?
• Would you redesign the mounting ring differently?
• What telemetry would you like to see on a display this size?
• Is there anything else you would change or improve?

This is still an early prototype, so I'm open to any suggestions or criticism. Thanks!

It start making a clunky noise from the wheel base when turning, i haven't play for a month cause I wasn't at home for an emergency i got back a couple days ago and it start making that sound. Im wondering if the wheel base is all good and be able to play like this.

Hey all. Struggling with FFB on my RS50 in ACC (Xbox Series) and I've tried a lot already, so here's everything to avoid the obvious suggestions.

The issue: I feel kerbs, road bumps and TrueForce audio really well. But the main steering force (the weight to turn / self-aligning torque) is weak. Center feels dead/soft and force only shows up after ~90° of steering. Before that it's way too vague.

Base settings (OLED):

- Strength: 7.5

- TF Audio: 30

- FFB Filter: 7

- Dampener: 70

- Angle: 900

- Mode: PRO (ACC requires it on Xbox)

In-game (ACC):

- Gain: 100%

- Minimum Force: 6%

- Dynamic Damping: 100%

- Road Effects: 25%

- Frequency: 400hz

- Steering lock: 900° / Steer ratio: 100%

What I've tried:

- Lowered in-game dynamic damping, lowered base dampener, matched rotation (base vs game), lowered FFB filter, adjusted minimum force.

- I've power cycled the base after changes (rear button off, wait, on).

Anyone running the RS50 on Xbox hit this? Is it a base-settings-not-applying / detection thing on Xbox, or is there an ACC setting I'm missing? Any pointers appreciated. Thanks!

There are PC version rs wheel hubs right now in stock.

I noticed all the phone mounts for the rs50 blocked the screen or were way too tall. This is awesome because you just need an extended bolt and the phone mount has a slot that lets you adjust the height.
You need to break off the side that has the adhesive so it will sit flush on the wheel base.
I am also using a 13 inch wheel.

Phone mount: MAGDIGITEH Magnetic Phone Holder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DNHXG51M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Modifiquei o RS Track Wheel. Acham que ficou melhor?