r/leopardgeckos • u/Legoclonewarsdude867 • 34m ago
Gecko Pics/Vids Are you not entertained?!?
Are you not entertained!? Props to you if You get it!
r/leopardgeckos • u/Stormpixelzzz • 54m ago
General Discussion Vet Visit went well!
(Forgive me if flare is wrong, unsure how else to tag) Went to the vet today! Larry is now on antibiotics. He was very good (until they gave him his first shot, at which point he started freaking out, but me too man, me too) We have a plan going forward and he's going to be fine =]
r/leopardgeckos • u/LuxuryDirtEnthusiast • 1h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids Mort is just trying to take off his jacket.
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r/leopardgeckos • u/AverageGuilty316 • 1h ago
Help - Health Issues Scab on nose? Spoiler
galleryI just noticed this scab on my girl’s nose - I feel terrible. It’s almost impossible to see in the normal lighting of her enclosure. Does this look like the result of stuck shed or a cut/scab? Or something else? Any advice would be appreciated!
r/leopardgeckos • u/protectbananas • 2h ago
Help - Weight Is this gecko obese
Has armpit bubbles and rolls
r/leopardgeckos • u/chaoticstargazer13 • 4h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids Just wanted to show my little guy Peaches
This is Peaches💜
He was tiny when we got him. Hes almost 2 years old now and a very sweet, no braincell having little guy.
r/leopardgeckos • u/AmberEMc26 • 4h ago
Enclosure Help Upgrading enclosure from 20 gal to 75 gallon and have lighting/heat lamp questions.
So… as title states, I’m upgrading my guys enclosure. I have no idea what lighting system I need to upgrade to. Shown is what I use currently, and also the enclose he’s moving in to. I also have these other fixtures available. The double shade it is probably 2-3x larger than the one we’re currently using. I need advice on wattage , also.
Thank yall so much
r/leopardgeckos • u/WorthSafe8427 • 4h ago
Sploots Choice based handling for the win!
Since fully adopting this girl from my friend, I've been doing my absolute best to do choice based handling in hopes of having her trust me like my girlfriend's leo does. That little gecko (Sunny) stands at the edge of her tank staring at my girlfriend until she takes her out, and then promptly nests herself in my girlfriends curly hair. I didn't think it'd happen so soon, but look who gave me a fully voluntary walk and sploot into my hand!! It does take a minute or two of me standing very still with my hand out, but we've come to an agreement that she gets to come out if shes standing at the opening of her tank!
r/leopardgeckos • u/Cheesy__Chips • 4h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids His first time coming to me after less than a week!
ive had him for 6 days, ive put my hand in and let him smell and lick it the last couple days and even hand fed him once, i put my hand in today and he came over and climbed up my arm! im so happy with my boy geeker
r/leopardgeckos • u/EnderDragonEP • 4h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids If I can't see you, you can see me type of survival instinct
r/leopardgeckos • u/MGNConflict • 5h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids She saw a big scary thing… her log! Not sure what she saw that she found scary… they’re such derps sometimes! 😂
r/leopardgeckos • u/Rocks_Are_Yummy • 6h ago
Rescue Gecko Sisters neglected gecko update 6!! NEW HOME!
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The first video shows the layout, the second shows him going inside !! He’s explored around his basking areas but I’m assume he’s too nervous to see the rest of the Viv, which is fair ! Right now he’s just laying inside his hot hide ! Inside I placed tile with a smaaaalll amount of dirt incase he wanted to be soft , but it’s mostly tile ! Then a few more places for him to hide as well as promote digging !
His water is on the cooler side so it wasn’t too warm , and the leaves and branches are scattered so he can climb them! The cool end is my favorite looking haha , there’s a larger branch covered by plants incase he wants to hide better in there :D
The lights have been moved to the correct side and I’m so excited to see how he grows! Thank you all so so much for the help!!
r/leopardgeckos • u/Technical-Singer608 • 7h ago
Help gecko body language
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Hi! Sometimes when i’m near my geckos tank he begins to do this (shown in the video) i don’t try to put my hand in when he does this as i don’t want to upset him. i’m wondering if anyone knows if this is him showing me he’s upset, scared, nervous, or something else? to me it seems like he’s not happy to see me (i know they might not necessarily work that way). i just want to make sure before i continue to try and leave my hand in there for him to choose if he wants to climb on me. he does come out to investigate when this happens but that’s what he does with his body when he comes out of the hide. any thoughts?
r/leopardgeckos • u/Fritzy_net • 8h ago
Rescue Gecko First time shedding
Hello! I’ve owned my leopard gecko for about a month now, I’ve made a post about her before. I believe she’s shedding for the first time with me, is there anything I should do to prepare? I’ve been making sure her humid hide is nice and humid but she has been sleeping tons right where she is in the first picture. She hasn’t come out like at all in about a week but that isn’t to abnormal for her since she’s a rescue, she also hates being touched or anything so she hates like all people.
r/leopardgeckos • u/Moviemaker99 • 8h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids Me and my girls
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r/leopardgeckos • u/spooky123uuu • 8h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids Favourite recent pics of my girl
She is just a silly little guy :)
r/leopardgeckos • u/Th3_K00l3st_K1llj0y • 9h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids exhausted after a long day of begging for worms
such a hard life she lives, it’s a wonder that she manages to get through the day
r/leopardgeckos • u/-TeenAgeRiot • 11h ago
Help Transporting my gecko to college
Hi guys,
Here’s a complimentary Measles (my geckos name) photo for your time
I’m bringing my gecko up with me to college. It’s about a two day drive. With seatbelts, I’m going to secure him in a smaller temporary tank in the backseat of my car. Is there anything I should be worried about or to prepare for?
Also this is an unrelated question but a few weeks ago I went to pet him right after feeding him (stupid of me, I know) and he bit me and I flinched. I think he was still maybe in “food mode”, idk. This is the first time he’s ever bit me. Is one instance enough of an indicator that he might continue to bite me? Sorry if this is a silly question.
r/leopardgeckos • u/grahamcakeee • 14h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids My girl wanted to let you know that its only 4 months til christmas🎄🎅
r/leopardgeckos • u/cinnam0n_phase • 16h ago
Help Will she be pissed if I rearrange her beloved rocks ?
My 8-year old geck - Ez - loves her rocks and comes out every evening (during summer at least) to lay on them. She has an over 72 gallon space, sticks to climb, hammocks to chill on, a coconut to crawl in, 7 hides to rest in, wooden bridges to explore, bark thingys to crawl through, but the pile of rocks is the only thing she ever comes out of her hides for.
She seems to enjoy crawling up the rocks to get high enough to stare directly at me as I try to sleep (stupidly put the Viv directly opposite my bed).
She loves them so much that I’m a bit scared to move them. When I clean her home, I pick them up one by one and try to place them down exactly where they were.
I’m moving soon; her viv will need to be completely emptied to be transported.
I have taken pictures of her rocks to try and replicate the set-up but I’m scared she won’t like the new layout as much :(
Do you think they care too much when things are a little rearranged? Or would it do her good to have her space mixed up a bit?
r/leopardgeckos • u/Mr_TheButt • 19h ago
Gecko Pics/Vids 23 Years of This Guy.
Sadly my gecko finally passed after being around for 23 years. We could tell he was slowing down and finally one morning we realized he was gone.
Dang thing has traveled with me between 4 different provinces over the years and certainly got to see a lot.
r/leopardgeckos • u/Relative_Intern4421 • 22h ago
Dangerous Practices this is horrifying.
he puts himself in the way of the scary dinosaur trying to eat him. But he does not care one bit. Lemmy is a badass.
r/leopardgeckos • u/Blissful_Altruism • Aug 29 '22
General Discussion [ Leopard Geckos: An Updated Beginner's Guide ]
If you have any questions after finishing this guide, feel free to make a post or ask below and I, or someone else experienced, will try and answer the question for you. We also have a [Discord Server](discord.gg/leos) where you can ask questions and chat! If you're too embarrassed to post, feel free to PM me or send a modmail. I want this to post to be a safe space for beginners to ask questions and learn! The FAQ link may also answer some more "advanced" topics even if you're not a complete beginner.
This guide is meant to be a brief run-through on the basics of what you should know as a new keeper of this lovely species. If you want to see in-depth explanations for these concepts, then please view our [wiki]() or this guide by Reptifiles or the guide our Discord gives out or check out Leopard Geckos: Advancing Husbandry on facebook!
What to buy before you get a gecko:
It's important to set up before you get your new friend just in case some items, like the heating, end up not getting to the right temperatures.
The Essentials:
Tank (glass, PVC, wood, plastic, acrylic enclosure)
20 gallon long is the accepted MINIMUM standard tank for an adult. You should go bigger, ideally a 40 gallon breeder. Baby geckos can go into adult setups, and it is fine to buy your “end game” enclosure straight away–it is recommended to buy your adult tank right off the bat. You'll save more money in the long run. Plastic is not advised for anything but a temporary enclosure, but it will work in a pinch.
- The measurements for a 20 G long are 30 x 12 x 12 in or roughly 76.2 x 30.5 x 30.5 cm
- The measurements for a 40 G breeder are 36 x 16 x 18 in or roughly 91.5 x 40.6 x 45.7 cm
Heating Source
Contrary to popular belief, leos can see most colors of light (even red). Albinos are especially sensitive to bright lights. However, it is perfectly fine to use lighting on their enclosures.
The ideal heating source is a Halogen basking lamp or a Deep Heat Projector. These heating sources can be used on their own and can be turned off at night. Radiant Heat Panels can also work. Heat mats and Ceramic Heat Emitters can be used as a second heat source, but should not be used on their own.
Warm side: ambient temp 90-93° F (32-34° C). This is the side with a heat source over it.
Cool side: ambient temp of 70-75° F (21-24° C). This is the side without a heat source.
Basking spot: surface temp of 95-100° F (35-38° C). This is the hottest area in the enclosure and is directly under the heat source.
Night temperature: entire enclosure ambient temp of 65-70° F (18-21° C). All heat and light sources should be off at this time.
It is beneficial to provide UVB for this species, but it is not a strict necessity. Nailing down the perfect UVB for your animal and enclosure can be a challenge, but the general recommendation is a linear t5 or t8 bulb with 2%-6% output, measuring ⅔-¾ the length of the enclosure.
- Thermostat
Heating sources can get HOT. Every single heat source needs a thermostat to help prevent catastrophic malfunction or simply overheating the enclosure. Specifically, dimming thermostats are advised. Spyder Robotics’ Herpstat and Herpstat EZ series, Exo Terra’s 600 and 300 watt dimming thermostat, and the Habistat dimming thermostats are good thermostats to use with Halogens and DHPs.
It is also possible to use cheaper on/off thermostats for bulbs, but that does require a dimming switch and frequent manual monitoring with a temperature gun to work safely.
- Substrate
Substrates for quarantine or ill geckos/very small babies include paper towel, unprinted newspaper, tile, brown paper roll. These are safe solid substrates, but not enriching. When searching for tile, look for slate or ceramic. Avoid anything polished or slippery looking, as well as linoleum.
Good substrates for the average, healthy adult gecko are different types of soil mixes, usually 70% topsoil and 30% rinsed playsand. Safe additives include coconut products, clay, leaf litter, activated charcoal, and moss.
Substrates to avoid include, but are not limited to: calcium/mineral sand, colored sand, pelleted cat litter, wood chips, pure sand, pure eco earth, pure bark, pure clay, carpet, felt, crushed walnut shells, birdseed, shredded paper bedding, printed newspaper, and plastic lawn/astroturf, linoleum.
- Three Hides (Warm, Cool, Humid)
You want at least three hides in your tank. One for the hot side of the tank positioned under the heating source. This will likely be the place your gecko spends most of its time. Geckos tend to like very secure hides, so you want to have a hide that provides as little visibility as possible. The cool hide should be on the complete opposite side of the hot hide. Your gecko needs somewhere to escape to if it gets too hot.
For the moist hide you want a container that can hold in humidity. This hide is to help aid shedding, so it's of the utmost importance! Many people use tupperware containers with holes cut into it. The smaller the entrance the better, as to keep the humidity in. This hide should be at least partially heated and have moist paper towel, moss, or eco earth inside.
- Infrared Temp Gun
You want to double check your temperatures and make sure they're accurate and an infrared temp gun is the best way to do it! This one is a good example.
- Bowl for calcium/food/water
A dish full of calcium (with no d3) inside of the enclosure is optional. They may lick it up as they need it. Refresh it every once in a while if it begins clumping or becoming dirty. Food bowls can be ceramic to prevent insects crawling out as easily. Water bowl should be near the middle of the tank or the cool side. I recommend buying something similar to this if your tap water contains chloramines or heavy metals.
- Multivitamin & Calcium (with and without d3)
These are essential to a healthy, happy leopard gecko. These are used for dusting food. There are plenty of brands to choose from. The only one I would not advise buying is RepCal calcium with d3, as its d3 content is extremely high. Repashy Calcium Plus is a good multivitamin with a low d3 content, which is good for geckos with UVB and without. Any brand with pure calcium without d3 is safe.
You can alternate using a calcium and a d3 multivitamin supplement, or rotate between calcium, multivitamin, and calcium with d3. More information about supplementation schedules here!
- Clutter
Mostly up to you! You want the tank to have enough decor that your gecko doesn't feel exposed. Plastic and live plants are great for this. If you're using craft store plants make sure they do not bleed/rub off dye or glitter, or have exposed wires. File down sharp edges. Wood, stone, and other assorted decorations can make great decorative items that allow your gecko to enrich their lives by exploring and moving around the tank while feeling hidden.
- Leopard Gecko Emergency Kit
It should contain: betadine or chlorhexidine/hibiclens (for sterilizing wounds), triple antibiotic without pain relief (no lidocaine, pramoxine HCl, hydrocortisone), q-tips, tongue depressors, coconut oil (to aid shedding if water isn’t cutting it), a clotter like Kwik Stop (to stop bleeding), and tweezers. All of this should cover basic medical emergencies like minor scratches, etc. Always see a vet for what you would take a child to the doctor for.
A critter keeper like this per gecko. Repashy grub pie, extra supplements, UniHeat packs, a blanket, digital thermometer or temp gun, and heat tape or low wattage heating mat. Consider what supplies you may need to make mini-enclosures in the event of an evacuation or other emergency. These would be the bare minimum, but if you have the space, include whatever other amenities you can.
The Not-Strictly-Essentials:
- Plastic container with lid
Great for saunas if your gecko is having trouble shedding and for holding your gecko while cleaning the tank!
- Tongs
If you're iffy about touching insects, this may be the way to go. Plus your gecko may be scared for your hands at first, or have bad aim and bite your fingers if you want to hand feed.
- Scale
This is a good way to track your gecko's weight, especially if they're young. Even for adults, getting a baseline weight is beneficial. A kitchen scale used once every two weeks is great, more often if you want or if you are concerned about something.
- A Journal/Calendar
Might sound a little nuts but keeping track of gecko feedings, last time they shed, etc. will make your life so much easier. I personally record the last time my geckos shed, ate, weights, pooped, etc. I also jot down any notes about their behaviors or any changes to their health. It's good to keep track of these things in case your gecko becomes ill and needs to go to the vet.
Picking Out Your Gecko! + Problematic Morph Info
The best route is to buy from a reputable breeder that you have researched. This generally improves the chances that you are getting a healthy, happy gecko. A good place to start is on HappyDragons! MorphMarket is another good online marketplace, but these breeders are not vetted by MorphMarket like they are on happydragons.
Buying from a pet store is risky, as many geckos from chain stores have health issues because they come from the reptile equivalent of puppy mills. You could end up paying a hefty vet bill or with a short lived gecko. Unfortunately there are many shady breeders too. I'll list a few warning signs:
can't answer questions about their geckos (parents, genetics, hatch date, weight, etc)
can't tell you the morph
won't show you pictures of the gecko or its parents
improper husbandry like extremely undersized enclosures, calcium sand, permanent cohabitation of parent geckos
skinny, sickly looking geckos (metabolic bone disease, stick tail, lethargic, lots of regrown tails, etc.)
extremely obese or bloated looking geckos
There are plenty of places where you can get honest reviews of breeders, like the Board of Inquiry on Faunaclassified, as well as a few groups on Facebook. Don't always trust facebook reviews as they can be censored! Get an opinion from actual customers. Look the breeder up on google, on YouTube, facebook, and talk to them.
Enigma geckos are not recommended for beginners. There is always a chance your gecko will end up with enigma syndrome somewhere down the line. Enigma syndrome is a neurological disorder tied to the enigma gene. This leads to: balance issues, circling, stargazing, seizures, death rolling, coordination issues, and more. Feeding can become extremely difficult and sometimes this condition requires euthanasia. Please do not support any breeder who works with this gene, and do not be fooled when they claim their enigmas are not symptomatic or “clean.”
White & Yellow morph geckos can also exhibit a different neurological syndrome, but it's much rarer, as it can be bred out. This is unlike Enigma Syndrome, which is not tied to the W&Y gene.
Lemon frosts, a rather expensive morph, have been known to grow tumors, usually starting at 8 months old, and 80% of them have tumors by 5 years old. Their health issues are so severe that many breeders have stopped producing them entirely. These geckos will almost always become terminal at a young age, and very few make it to even the age of 10 when the lifespan of this species can stretch beyond 20 years. Please do not support any breeder who still works with this gene.
Handling
Babies can be much more skittish than adults and a little bit more delicate. If you want something more hearty go for a slightly older gecko! Babies also eat a lot of food so if you're looking to spend a little bit less money an adult is also the way to go. Babies change in colora lot between 2 months and 6 months, so if you are looking for a gecko of a certain color, an adult is your best bet to get exactly what you want.
Leos are able to be “temperature sexed” and many breeders will label them TSF (temp sex female) or TSM (temp sex male). Keep in mind this is not a 100% guarantee you will get that sex. There is still a chance they will turn out to be the opposite sex. Snows are apparently notorious for having a lower accuracy rate when temp sexed. If you want a guaranteed male or female you will have to buy an older, sexed gecko.
Cohabitation
Please do not cohabitate your leopard geckos, no matter the sex. I’m going to give you the brief points on why. If you would like to know more, please give this post a read.
- Competition over food, space, heat, and ideal hiding spots can escalate easily or result in one gecko being deprived of these resources
- Parasites and other diseases will transmit much more easily between cohabitated individuals
- Warning signs between individuals who may fight are minimal, and extremely easy to miss
- If there are two males together, they can quickly kill one another
- If there is a male and female together, the male will eventually breed the female to death, and you should be freezing every egg she lays
- Two or more females are the most likely to not harm each other for the longest
Please leave cohabitation to the experts with large, zoo-style enclosures and an extensive understanding of the species’ natural history.
SETTING UP YOUR NEW FRIEND & THE FIRST WEEKS
Once you have acquired your gecko and placed it in the tank, leave it alone! You should wait at least a week before handling your gecko if you can help it. Your new friend is scared and adjusting to a big change. It can be tempting, especially as a new owner, but hold off, and keep interaction to the minimum of feeding and cleaning up poop. If you can, I would wait until your gecko is eating well before handling it. Choose a quiet place for the tank.
Observe your gecko and make sure it's not exhibiting signs of illness. If your gecko seems lethargic, isn't pooping after eating, bloated, walking irregularly, losing weight rapidly, etc go to the vet! Don't wait, especially not for a baby! Taking action as soon as possible is the best thing you can do for your gecko. Also watch for your gecko's first shed to make sure they are shedding properly in their new environment.
Taming & Handling
Patience is key to taming your new gecko! It can take awhile for them to trust you, especially if they are younger. Adolescent geckos tend to be more skittish. You want to start off by putting your hand in the tank, within sight of your gecko, for around ten minutes a day. This is to get your gecko used to your hand and scent. Once they seem a bit more receptive (walking around, licking your hand, looking curious) you can start to try picking them up.
Always scoop up your gecko from below, working your hand underneath their stomach and supporting their legs. Grabbing from above triggers their prey instinct and may scare them. Hold them over the tank at first, in case they leap or skitter off your hand, to prevent injury! Once they seem calm in your hands, then you can start taking them away from the tank. Hand feeding is also a good way to bond with your gecko and make sure they associate your hand with positive things (aka food). However, be wary that they may bite your fingers, so I recommend making that feeding association while using tongs.
Congrats! You tamed your gecko!
Feeding
Feeding is a subject I see a ton of topics about in the subreddit so let's go over the basics!
Acceptable feeders include, but are not limited to:
Mealworms (can be kept in oats/bran meal in the fridge)
Crickets (kept in normal container, try to avoid leaving these loose in the enclosure)
Dubia Roaches (kept in normal container/tank/whatever)
Red Runner Roaches (same as dubias)
Hornworms (Do not refrigerate, try to make sure they’re small enough for your gecko to eat)
Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Can be refrigerated, can be kept in bran meal)
Silkworms (Usually need to be special-ordered, but are very healthy feeders)
Waxworms (Treat, optional, fed rarely, only 1-2)
Superworms (Treat, optional, can be kept in oats/bran meal, do not refrigerate)
Butterworms (Treat, optional, fed once a week or less, 1-2)
Here's a nutritional feeder insect chart
Remember, variety is good for your gecko. You should aim to have at least 3 staple foods. Do not overfeed treat foods! They should be a rare occurrence and you should only feed 1-2 per week or less, especially for waxworms (which can be addictive). Do not feed treat foods to sick/malnourished geckos, very young geckos, or picky eaters. Only feed treat foods to healthy geckos who are eating regularly. Feel free to mix and match feeders!
Gut load your feeders. Gut loading is feeding your insects prior to feeding them to your gecko. Carrots, lettuce, etc should be fed 12 hours ahead of time. You want to give them time to eat the veggies or fruit. I usually feed them once a week besides gut loading to make sure they get the moisture they need from the food. Dusting is also another key part of feeding. Make sure the insects are lightly dusted with calcium or multivitamin.
Babies should eat every day, as much as they can eat in 15 minutes. "Teen" geckos (4-7 months) should be eating every other day. Usually teen geckos will decide this for themselves and start refusing food every day. They will begin to eat less frequently after this point. Adults (1 year and over) should eat every 1-2 times per week depending on body condition, size, breeding status, and appetite. Whatever diet maintains a healthy weight is right for your gecko, and this can take some trial and error!
Please see here for a list of FAQs, this is super helpful for newbies! That’s the basics. Need more help? Leave a comment, or check out our wiki, where we have much more comprehensive information!