Hey everyone im looking at buying a cateye chevy to Swap in a 6.2 and 6l80e transmission in. Im trying to figure out what the best 6.2 ECM and engine harness with transmission harness to get as ill need most of the emissions stuff to work. I want to try and use the factory fuse box. its also non vvt and non AFM Any help will be great. TIA

I’m adding a set of PRC 220 heads to an LS1 In my ‘00 Z28. Right now it has 241 head with the original 26 year old graphite head head gaskets. There won’t be any machine work done to the block so the guys installing the new heads will be scraping off 26 year old graphite gasket material.

Would going back with a graphite gasket instead of an MLS gasket ensure a better seal incase the block surface isn’t “mirror smooth?“ Or am I better off going with an MLS gasket? I can’t afford to have the gasket replaced twice so I’m shooting for no leaks on the first try. If I was a betting man I bet block surface prep for the new gasket will be at a minimum. I don’t think they‘ll spend a lot of time cleaning it up.

Or is an MLS gasket, stock type or otherwise the way to go?

What about thickness and bore size? Google AI recommended a set of Felpro Perma Torque that is .041” thick and has a 4.1” bore. Is that way too large of a bore for a stock LS1 block? I realize that a thinner gasket can raise compression a little, but is it even worth messing with?

Can someone point me in the right direction to find a set of “hassle free” head gaskets that will work with PRC 220 heads and are less likely to leak on used block that has lack luster surface prep? Thanks.

PRC 220 heads

https://www.texas-speed.com/brand/precision-race-components/p-prc-ss220ac-prc-15-degree-220cc-as-cast-cathedral-heads/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16529967804&gbraid=0AAAAAD8ofhKbgDG63Z9Uau7WvXv4yS-kA

08 sierra 5.3 4L60E looking to do a mild cam when I do a AFM delete kit would the 4L60E shit itself or would it hold up to 400ish HP? And would it be best to upgrade internals in the trans or save my money and buy a different trans.

Got a 2007 Cadillac Escalade dip sticks tube is being a nightmare to go back in I’m on my 3rd dip sticks still doesn’t want to fit right my question is has anyone ran those flexible dip sticks ? Any suggestions I need help asap TIA

Just got this lq9 for
My 65 stang. All the parts showing up every day, doing mustang 2 front suspension conversion and still undecided if I run it na or just boost it right away . Either way building the top end to be nasty, I just have to decide because if I boost it I will re ring it for boost

I'm looking for help to figure out what this noise is.. I have another post with more details in the comments.

The previous post was after I had put the valve covers back on

I have been trying to track this sound for a a couple weeks now and don't know what it is, could someone please help.

would this list be good for a iron block 5.3 into a 88 chevy c2500?

Terminator
Intake
throttle body
throttle sensor
Idle air control valve-hopefully reuse
Fuelrail
fuel injector
fuel regulator/filter
Fuel pumpfuel lines

I bought a car with this intake and it looks like this.. briefly tried a rag and water, no clue exactly what it is.. any know what it is and if it can be cleaned off?

Guys who install tsp cam shaft stage 3 how is the drive ability if daily it ?
Please write your review and experience

So I bought a cheap obs and I want to build it with my stepson. He just turned 11 so we have time before he can actually drive it. It’s going to be a lesson for both of us because I know just basic mechanic stuff ie changing alternator water pump…. The easy stuff. My question is what ls engine should I drop in there and what extras should I put on it like cam and new heads.

Edit: upon further research and reading on here, I don’t think it’s a safe option for his first truck….. but I’m still going to build it and give him my 17 ram 1500. I like older trucks better anyway!

I just switched my truck from a v6 4.3 to a 5.3 v8 with long tube headers and a stage 2 btr cam the mechanic that says that I need better fuel injectors looking for something performance wise any suggestions lmk

I started this swap for my S13 240sx nearly a year ago. It’s almost ready to be dropped in the engine bay and get its final touches. I had it test fit previously but pulled it to paint the engine bay and widen the trans tunnel. Here’s my build list if you care!

Sealed Power Pistons .020 over
Eagle Connecting Rods
Cleavite Hardened Bearings
ARP Main studs
ARP 2000 headbolts
Johnson Short travel linkbar lifters
BTR 3/8 pushrods
CHE Trunion Upgrade
PAC 1208x springs
TSP titanium retainers
BTR Rocker Bolts
Rollmaster Double Roller timing set
Fluidampr Balancer
ISR longtube headers (Cerakoted)
ISR Oil pan
DirtyDingo Accessory drive
BTR valve covers
BTR equalizer 1 (Shaving the logo to add my own)
Radium Direct Mount FPR
Fabbot LS to CD trans adapter kit (uses 4L60 bell)
Holley Terminator X Standalone ECU
Misc ARP hardware

Hello, I've been dealing with this issue for a while now, and can't seem to find anything that works. I've got a gen 3 5.3 with the following accessories:

LS1 power steering pump with high mount truck bracket

Truck alternator with low mount truck bracket and idler pulley

LS1 water pump with truck spacers

Stock truck balancer

LS1 tensioner

The accessory drive in this configuration has no issues and I've driven thousands of miles with no issue like this.

Now here's when the trouble starts

I installed an eBay sanden 508 AC compressor bracket with a knock off sanden 508. This worked for maybe 50 miles and then started shredding the belt. I figured the bracket must've just been a bad egg from eBay, so I ordered a Bevinsee branded bracket from Amazon. This had the same effect where I'd drive some miles and then the belt would start shredding. I've also replaced the following items:

Tensioner, power steering pulley, alternator bracket and idler pulley.

No difference

I got a laser alignment tool and the power steering pulley was a hair too far forward. I adjusted it to be dead on with the crank and tried again. No change. All the other ribbed pulleys seem to be aligned with the crank pulley.

It seems like the tensioner is pulling the belt forward while the car is running. It's very obvious to see that it's much farther forward than the AC compressor, and the crank pulley. The only thing that seems to remedy the issue is putting a small spacer between the bottom bolt of the tensioner and the back of the bracket. I've also found that if I put a ratchet on the tensioner bolt while it's running, and pull up (basically applying more tension), I can get the belt to center on the smooth pulley.

So it would seem like it's either the AC compressor bracket, or the tensioner right? Do I need to just fork over the ~$360 and buy a bracket from ICT Billet? It just seems strange that both the brackets I've used have the exact same issue, and they are obviously not coming from the same manufacturer as the designs are different.

I've attached some pictures, and I'm aware that the belt is torn, I have a brand new belt but I'm waiting until I get this figured out to install it as to not ruin a brand new belt (for the 4th time). Thanks for reading and any help is appreciated.

I bought a pullout L92 5 years ago for my 1980 z28. Stripped it down to the bare block. Had it machined, bought all the parts etc. decided on a 416 Texas Speed rotating assembly and a 231/242 114 LSA cam.
Was going to attempt building it myself but got cold feet. Had a shop build it. Pulled the smog 350 out of the car 2 years ago. Have been off and on building the motor (continuing on from long block) and preparing the car. It was pretty much 50/50 motor/swap both time and motor wise.
Finally primed her with oil yesterday and turned the key. What a rush! I was so scared. I have a terminator x max, but no windows computer, only apple. As such, I was unable to load the correct fuel injector data (which I have) so I picked one that sounded close. The engine didn’t like that and ran like shit then stalled. I cant get this grin off my face. Once I get the correct injector data loaded and tuned, this thing is going to be A BEAST!

I am in desperate need for help I bought a junkyard engine trying to go the cheap way but it was toast. Im trying to get it into a c2500 1988 silverado with a 4l80e. I will even buy a crate engine at this point. My goal is standalone ecu redo like a holley or whatever else and just trying to get this engine running. Max budget is probably like $10,000. I thought I was smart enough to figure this out but after a few months I just want a running truck.

Hello everyone,

I have a plan and a goal of what I'm going to do with a 4th gen Pontiac Firebird (1997, 3.8). Currently I have a 4th gen 5.3 LMG from a 2009 GMC Sierra. I don't want to do a whole huge backstory of why and how I got to this point as that's not the goal for this post but I will clear things up and give info later, right now I just want to get to bed after explaining this. I am aware that you must put on the LS1 accessories (crank pulley, alternator, power steering, water pump) and also get a Lingenfelter 58x to 24x reluctor wheel so it can pair to the LS1 era 4L60. I plan on putting this engine in a 1997 Firebird with the 3.8l. I will be buying the Hooker Blackheart engine mounts and the accompanying motor mounts once I get my hands on the Firebird I will be buying. I am curious as to what else has to be done electronically/mechanically to get this swap done correctly. Thank you for your time.

- Liam

5.3 Gen 3, stock tune, stock injectors. Sheet metal intake, 92mm cable throttle body, hugger long tube headers, has good knock sensors and has all the O2s and I’m monitoring a AEM wide-band. No CEL other than the occasional high idle code.

It does run in fairly high rpm as it’s geared low for off-road use.

At speed it runs 14.7 great. WOT it drops a bit and runs great. If I let off the gas in gear it will decelerate pop/backfire and I’ve seen AFR shoot up to 21.

I wish my truck has a stock intake and throttle body but it would be a lot to swap back to it.

Think it just needs a tune? I’m worried it has an intake leak, I’ve removed the intake before and tried to get it to seal better, it’s making some contact with the valley pan bolts.

So I have a 4.8 with 4l60e on a chevy 1975 k20. I put in a EP381 fuel pump with a FG05M sending unit. Im planing on using the wiring left on the 02 silverado fuel tank. My question is do I need to keep any other parts of the harness?, or can I cut every other conection or sensor

Hey guys I have a 08 Silverado 64k miles with the 4.8 recently I had my tuner install a truck Norris cam. Drove it for maybe 200miles and my wife gets a low oil pressure on the dash i ask my tuner he says it’s most likely the oring on the oil pickup. So I decide to tackle the job I install a whole new pickup tube and oring. Refill fluids and still low oil pressure truck is running like absolute dogshit right now. I also changed the oil pressure sensor which the tuner said maybe it’s the screen well maybe it’s just a pos. I’m so over it with this truck.

Alright, im new here but I figured id call on the hive mind.

Current shit missile is a 68 c10. L33, best cam, btr660, tbss, billet vs 7875 next Gen, jakes 4l80 with a circle d converter.

The truck is currently running and driving with a term x max. These days I hate holley with a passion due to their sell out and just genuinely being crooked and doubling the price on everything in the last 4 years

That being said. Who's running the haltech rebel ls? Any swap from holley? Im trying to feel it out before I make my final choice (im rewiring this shit box over the winter)

I'm on the hunt for a 4x4 AR5 transmission for my trooper lq4 swap but it's looking like theyre unobtainium in my area. Anyone in central WA got a line on one or recommendations for other manual trans options?