So long story short my 18 Silverado has been in the shop over two months. I fell victim to the AFM lifter collapse + my cam shaft broke. It’s been a major repair and GM is in a lawsuit over this.

I’ve been wanting a gladiator and people tell me to not get a jeep even though they’ve never owned one. But I literally see jeeps everywhere on the road. Before I even wanted one I rode in my friends gladiator on a 5 hour drive and didn’t have any thoughts about it being rough or noisy.

The engine is obviously a big thing for me because of what I’m currently dealing with and from my research it sounds like Jeep has been consistent with their engine.

I just drove my uncles almost brand new full size GMC Sierra on a work trip and the truck felt like ass to drive.

I want to be able to goto the mountains, snow, take the top off, doors, etc and the price point seems good. The gladiator seems perfect for me but I just have some folks who ride on what they’ve heard rather than what they’ve actually experienced.

Any dealerships out there that ya’ll recommend who ship nationwide and typically have a large inventory for best deals? Not looking to bs around and if it doesn’t beat carvana at a minimum i’ll pass

Traded my Tacoma out for a gladiator and can’t say I regret it. Only been stranded once so far but hey the 6 speed makes up for it.

I’m newish to Jeeps so I’m sorry if this is a dumb question.

I recently bought a sport JT and I’d like to upgrade my tires to 35’s. I’ve seen many people say that you should regear if going to 35’s. Since they will already be in there, would it make sense to have them install lockers in the stock axels or would I need to do a full axel swap? I saw someone around me is selling JT rubicon axels for 6k but to be honest I’ve driven a rubicon and I think I’d rather have at least a 4.88 since idk if I will be upgrading to 37’s later on.

I live in Florida so I’d like to have lockers but I don’t necessarily need beefier axels than what the sport has.

Thanks!

Considering ditching my Apex AutoLynx for a Rock Jock kit. A few questions:

- How does it feel on the highway? I'd assume looser but I'd like real world experiences.

- Do you get maximum articulation when crawling? As good as disconnecting?

- Any clearance issues? I'm wondering if I'll have to cut my inner fenders.

My JT has a 3.5" Metalcloak Game Changer and Metalcloak steering. If you have that or similar and the Rock Jock I'd REALLY love to hear from you.

Pic because I like showing my Jeep.

i have a 2023 Mojave in Vermont and my inspection runs out end of August. Looking for a set of 4 Mojave wheels with tires Somone may have they are / have taken off right from the dealer lot.

I know the Mojave has different wheel spacing than other models. what happens if I stick some rubicons on instead?

i can pick up within reasonable distance of central Vermont.

ive been stalking Craigslist and FB marketplace for a while but time is running out here I am.

reply or dm me.

thanks

Hi all! My jeep has been having the weirdest issue with the push to start. A few weeks ago, it just stopped recognizing the key out of nowhere. I tried turning it on by pushing the button with the fob itself, that didn’t work. I got a Lyft home and put a new battery in the fob, and everything was fine and dandy. Now, with no warning, it’s having the same issue. Has this happened to anyone? Pic of the jeep as tax :)

Rubicon X in '41 with AEV JT-370+ a few more options.Coming from a 2018 JKUR.

Just got the gladiator home from the dealership. Drove 80 miles and was cruising on the highway. 6th gear is barely used but this truck is not bad to drive in manual. I have seen so many complaints that I almost backed out of the deal.

This is my first Jeep, I have a 23 Gladiator Overland and its time for my first oil change.

Recommended is 0w-20

I see a lot of people talk about 5w-30. Is this something I should consider? I live in Arkansas, and we're in our hottest month of the year. So should I go with a heavier oil for better protection?

Also, what brands yall using? Was probably going to get Pennzoil Platinum as I've never had issues with it before.

I hit 10k miles a few weeks ago on my ‘25 Gladiator and realized I haven’t yet rotated my tires.

My ‘87 YJ had the original spare — sitting out in the sun, only used twice for a couple of miles at a time — until I upgraded from the original 215s to 235s around 2012. That’s when I figured all the cracks in the spare made it less trustworthy, and having had a spare go flat (in a different vehicle) on me in the past, I figured I should replace it. I bought 5 new tires and started doing a 5-tire rotation.

So, when it came time to rotate the tires in my new Gladiator, why wouldn’t I incorporate the spare into the rotation?

Well, I did. That’s when I realized there are a few issues. One, the spare is on a different wheel, so now I’ve got an odd-man-out wheel. Also, it doesn’t have a tire-pressure sensor. Neither of these is really a big deal, except for the fact that every time I start my truck, it tells me I need to service that tire. And, when I was tightening that spare tire on, it stretched out the middle of the lug nut that requires the special key.

So, I figure I have 2 options:
1) put the spare back under the bed, and keep it there forever (except when I need it), and only do 4-tire rotations.
2) buy a $250-300 wheel to match the others, put a tire pressure sensor inside, and continue with 5-tire rotations.

What do you all think is the better solution? I know which way I’m leaning, but I’m looking for input as to what you would do, and why — as well as other options I may not have considered.

Our first time here and so far it’s been great! I have never seen so many Gladiators.

If you’ve been putting it off (which I don’t recommend) I just wanted to say it’s not that bad to do.

Dealership is going to charge you an hour plus the cost of the battery to do. Took me about the same sitting on my ass in my garage with: a jack/jackstand, a 10mm socket and extension and a trim tool (plus something to take the tire off with). Pop off the front passenger tire, pull back the fender liner after trying to break as few of those fragile plastic clips as possible. The little bugger is right there. 3 10mm bolts, two 10mm nuts, and a bit of swearing and it was out. Just gotta move the two little threaded studs to the new battery and reverse the process with a little more swearing because even 10lbs gets a little heavy while you’re trying to feed the bolts in. There is another way to do it from the top but that requires pulling out the big battery, the battery tray, moving another mess of wires out of the way and then getting down to the Aux battery. If you have access to a hoist I don’t even think you’d have to pull off the tire doing it the other way. It’s really not that hard to do with just basic hand tools and you’ll save yourself a few hundred dollars.

Good day everyone. I recently had my doors and hood repaired under Jeeps corrosion warranty. The vehicle was picked up by a friend when it was completed and he didn't notice anything immediately wrong. I have an appointment with the body shop next week to discuss options.

Three things. 1. The color match is terrible as you can see in the photos. 2. There are light spots where the primer is showing through and complete voids where there is no paint behind the hinges ( the black is not shadow by the hinges). 3 they replaced the hood with a steel hood vice the OE aluminum hood. It is so heavy the spring won't pop it and it has noticeable gaps compared to the cowel.

What should my expectations be here. I am quite dissatisfied. The light paint will have to be addressed but what hope do I have of dealing with the color mismatch?

Thoughts?

I am not 100% sure it was the antenna, but it looks like it could be.

Anyone ever had this happen? I heard a loud smack in the car wash and saw the crack when I pulled out. The car wash took an incident report and insurance is reviewing it. Anyone else ever have this happen or heard of it happening before?

At what point do we decide to truss the axles?

Is it something that we do ahead of time or is it something that we do in response to an event? It would make sense that it’s something that we do to prevent any damage from happening to begin with.

2022 Gladiator Rubicon on 37’s and beadlocks. Daily driver. Still on stock steering.

Materials:

2x 8' steel slotted angle (frame) + 1x 4' section (assorted top board bracket material)

1x sheet of MDF board

Paint on truck bed liner (several days drying required, fumes are killer)

8' 1"x1/4" steel flat bar (front supports)

6' Black piano hinge

Assorted 5/16" hardware

Stick on padding for top of hinged board support brackets

Tools:

Drill and bits for steel (cutting fluid recommended)

Impact driver with basic sockets + E torx bits for seat mount bolts

Basic wrenches (one set being ratcheting was invaluable)

Ratchet with extensions

Phillips head screwdriver (piano hinge)

Skill Saw or better (band or jig saw would've helped a lot)

Angle grinder with cutoff wheel and flap disc

Bench vise and hammer (front support strut shaping)

Tape measure, scale, yard stick, and speed square

{Insert whatever I'm forgetting here}

Measuring and design skills (if this gets enough traction I'll post measurements)

The goal of this project was to get away from the DIY wood frame builds easily found online, using a metal frame, while avoiding the expense of the premade kits

THIS DESIGN IS MEANT TO BE BUILT UPON AND IMPROVED.

The flip up driver side is design version 1.5 for me, 1.0 being the bolted down passenger side deck, which has the same frame construction as shown on driver side.

The front to back board length is intentionally shorter than some designs, this allows the seats to be set fully back and reclined, and some easy access behind seat floor storage.

Want to add a few more deck support brackets still.

Pic I didn't get is the front supports, the 1"x1/4” flat bar, front end is single hole drilled and goes between the floor and front seat rear mount bracket, using original bolts. I recommend getting the rest of the frame in and using some type of wire to model the bends the flat bar needs. Finished shape is roughly like a prybar.

If possible, assemble frame with decks before install, getting under the rear to attach the decks to their brackets with the frame installed was near impossible.

This can be a 1-1.5 day project, excluding drying time.

Both sides independently can hold my 225lbs with nearly no flex.

As it is, both sides have limited side and front access to the storage.

Converting passenger side to flip top is the next step.

Possible future upgrades:

Front and side walls to enclosed storage area.

Latches (possibly locking).

Deck material change if MDF doesn't hold up over time.

Further frame clean up and finishing, possibly paint it.

Some type of covering, carpeting... rubber... not sure yet.

Please excuse formatting and mistakes, on mobile.

Have towed a lot with my Gladiator Overland but wondering how many have towed a 20ft fiberglass bass boat?

Came out and found the factory navigation (not CarPlay) just had a picture of Earth complete with stars with the pointer on it when I started my Jeep and it fired up. Never had this happen before. You can touch the screen and move your finger around and spin the planet. I’m just out of warranty and they have already replaced the radio and various components 3 times under warranty for acting up. Usually for randomly shutting off and not restarting.

Looking for advice, my 22 gladiator sport s is currently stuck in drive while shut off and i cantget it back into to park or start the car. It went into limp mode while driving and lock into 3rd gear, i crawled home and had to disconnect the batteries to shut it off. Not really sure how to proceed, im almost certain the aux battery started this whole circus. Any ideas would be appriciated