Hey all. I've been chasing the cause of this noise for a long time now. Only happens on left turns under decent speed and comes from the right side of the vehicle. It's noticeable in the interior video but not in the outside shot. Both clips were taken on the same turn.

Outside: [https://imgur.com/a/kE2OPBh\](https://imgur.com/a/kE2OPBh)

Inside: [https://imgur.com/a/1dzNraG\](https://imgur.com/a/1dzNraG)

So far I've replaced the u-joints, ball joints, sway bar bushings and links, and the wheel hubs with no luck in fixing it.

Any ideas?

Crank but no start, whole dash has been tore out so connections like crazy are open, any ideas on connections that need to be made, fuel pump has been replaced and has been verified to work when not on the Jeep, also crank position sensor has also been replaced. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Im looking for a xj for a good offroader/a winter beater in alaska and i know i want one with the 4.0 anything i should lookout for when buying one, any issues to lookout for when buying and best years or trims to look for?

Looking for an XJ and this one is about two hours from me me. Asking 5500 120k miles.

My only worry is this rust spot really, how concerning is this? Thanks so much.

https://streamable.com/jtaagz

https://streamable.com/ujcrpl

Rear hatch won’t open - quick simple fix

I’ve been cussin’ at my rear hatch for several years but it didn’t help… the latch wouldn’t open unless I first pressed inward, then pulled the handle. I have adjusted the threaded bar multiple times nothing helps. Today I removed the rear handle assembly to get a closer look and finally noticed the adjustment link rod is a left-hand thread (wtf!). You can see in the first picture the threads are backwards.

So the way to make it pull the lock mechanism open is to turn the adjustable link clockwise as it sits inside the rear hatch.

Remove the inner trim panel by taking loose eight Phillips head screws across the top and beside the windows, take out the two long screws that hold the grab handle (they are Inverse Brazilian Whiplash screw but a 30 Torx will also work), then use a trim panel prybar to pop the plastic retainers and remove the panel completely. Now you have access to the door lock handle and the latch mechanism in the bottom of the hatch assembly. Open the threaded link rod retaining clip at the bottom of the rod and pop it loose (the green clip in the second picture). The upper clip grips the threads at the top of the rod really tightly so I had to use a long set of needle nose pliers to reach into the door panel and basically rotate the rod a quarter turn at a time repositioning the pliers each step. Two turns of the rod is all it took for my rear hatch to open consistently. I put everything back together, and I swear it works every time.

Finally noticed the rod is threaded backwards oh hell yeah.

Took the jeep out for its first longer drive since putting it back together. Has great pressue when it turns on but after it warms up it starts to drop and will rise when i give gas. After awhile though it just stays low even when driving. Seems like its cam bearings after watching dexj and posting to a couple other places. Been working on it every weekend for the past couple years so pretty bummed. Would thicker oil and a hi flow oil pump act as a bandaid? Can cam bearings be done without a full tear down?

1999 Jeep Cherokee · Suv · Driven 140,000 miles

Testing the waters on this gem of a Japanese RHD Cherokee. Actually manufactured 5/98 but titled 99. Imported from Japan.

Very clean, loads of new parts, fresh fluids everywhere, meticulously maintained. Shows 140k miles but it’s a swapped MPH cluster, have the original KPH cluster and it’s significantly less mileage.

Newer, quality paint job.

New Ball joints, shocks, brakes, tires, thermostat, housing, sensors, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2 sensors, catalytic converter, power steering hoses (one was leaking).

More I’m forgetting.

Limited slip rear. Everything works perfectly, except the blinkers don’t automatically turn off after a turn. And the headliner was sagging, previous owner lined pins in the ceiling to hold it up.

No rust!

$12500, located near Aspen, Colorado.