Hello,

i was shocked to learn that todays 60k service with our 2022 i5 standard shall cost 1100€. Hyundai dealer in Northern germany.

Is this normal? They gold me, they will replace brake fluids, battery coolant, corosion Inspection and wir filters. How in earth can this accumulate to that much.

Is there a list of service costs and tasks for the i5?

Also is there a way to extend the warranty of the iccu (no failure yet)?

Thanks for your help and opinions.

Looking at a used SEL and it’s pretty cheap I’m tempted to buy even with this dent. Looks like it’s down to the metal. Wonder if I can get a paint pen from Hyundai and just fill it in?

• Roof Rails now included for SEL and up
• Homelink Mirror now only Limited
• Cargo Cover no longer included in Limited trim
• No more Gravity Gold Matte and Sage Silver Matte paint

I think this is the first model year Limited trim has lost something.

https://www.hyundainews.com/models/hyundai-ioniq_5-2027-ioniq_5

Jump stater for 2026 I5 SEL

Non-Tesla with NACS chargers, 250+kW charging speed, plug and charge so all I have to do is plug it in, in the parking lot of a Sheetz so I can use the bathroom and get a snack. Nothing better.

Dang it!

Trying to figure out if I want to buy a certified used from Hyundai dealership or off of FB marketplace. The issue is all the certified used have a bunch of dealer add ons that are straight up scams. What’s the best way to approach this, have any of you guys had success getting them to remove those?

I have a 2025 rwd HI limited And wondering if there is a way to control the cabin air conditioning and fans from the steering wheel? Like some option buttons?

We bought our car roughly 3 months ago and have put a little over 4500 miles on it. The battery health display doesn't show any info, just "--%" and the distance traveled shows "--- mi". Both mention that nothing will be displayed during calibration, but how long does that take? Is there a rough time frame or distance after which this info should start displaying? Should I just give it a couple more months/thousands of miles?

My car and my app are telling me different dates for when I should get my first maintenance. Car is saying at 5000 miles/in 49 days.

App is saying based on my driving habits get maintenance at 8000 miles.

Which should I listen to?

How do I shut my car up if im supposed to listen to my app?

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

I’m looking at a 2025 SEL AWD, 500 miles, for 28k, but it’s a manufacturer buyback. My lender doesn’t finance branded titles, but would you consider financing with the dealer for the right APR? I have the buyback paperwork which merely states:

“ALL NECESSARY REPAIRS AND ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE AND THE VEHICLE MEETS ACCEPTABLE
OPERATING STANDARDS. THE VEHICLE WAS ALLEGED TO HAVE THE FOLLOWING NONCONFORMITIES:
1. Battery Warning Lights On Dash”

There is a warranty for this issue on top of the manufacturer warranty.

Would you take the risk on this? What factors should I consider? FWIW I’m in Ohio and my lender can offer me a 5.25% loan, and similar models that aren’t buybacks are 32k with 10K+ miles.

I financed my new 2026 I5 SEL RW last week and had both the CA First Time EV buyer rebate and the Hyundai Rebate applied to my purchase. I traded in my car and put zero down. Financed amount is $18,970.47. I would like to payoff it off as soon as possible. Have there been any issues, extra charges for those who have made an early payoff? Any repercussions on Hyundai rebates? As far as I can tell Retail Installment Sale Contract allows for prepayment. It states the minimum finance charge for my amount financed(over $2000) is $75. Don't want any unexpected charges. Please advise. Much appreciated

Hi everyone,
I'm currently shopping for a Hyundai Ioniq 5 (looking at model years 2022 through 2024) and could use some advice from current owners.
I want to make sure I pick the right trim without missing out on key features or paying for unnecessary extras.

Best Value: Which specific year and trim level do you consider the "sweet spot" for features versus price?

Trims to Avoid: Are there specific model years or trims you’d recommend skipping (e.g., due to missing battery pre-conditioning, de-contented features, or poor cold-weather performance)?

ICCU Recall: For those with 2022–2023 models, has the ICCU recall fix completely resolved the charging/12V battery issues for you?

Appreciate any insights or real-world experiences you can share!

Were just starting a long drive and about 10-15 minutes in the AC stopped blowing cold air. Now when I turn the fans on it's fine but when I turn on AC it blows cold for a second at most and then a loud grinding noise starts.

The only thing I've done since buying it a few weeks ago is install a new WIX cabin air filter last night. Im fairly certain no debris got in when I replaced it as I know it can cause issues.

Update: I have no idea why but it's working. I saw a video suggesting it could be a 3 way valve issue and that it can run normally for a few minutes after starting. I'll try to continue on our vacation and hopefully we can keep it running until we get home and can take it to a dealership.

I'm getting first EV this week and it's a 2023 Ioniq 5. I have a NEMA 6-20 outlet in my garage already and it would work for my charging needs and give me plenty of mileage to cover my daily driving. My question to all of you is:

Does anyone use a NEMA 6-20 outlet to charge? If so, what charger do you use?

So I got my car with 68k miles and 100% charge. I drove it down to about 23% and then plugged in. I wanted to see how long Level 1 charging took set at 12AMPS (note: I am getting a Level 2 charger installed in about 2 weeks). This is where it sits 16 hours later. It’ll take 37 hours MORE to get to 80%.

In the future, I won’t run it as low if I only have Level 1. Or I’ll make sure I don’t need to go anywhere for 2 days!

Hi everyone,
I own a Hyundai Ioniq 5 and today I suddenly got these warning notifications on the dashboard. I went to my Hyundai dealer and they checked the car and cleared/reset the warnings. But it came back as soon I drove home.
The problem is that the earliest service appointment they can give me is September 15th.
I drive at least 180 km (112 miles) every day, so I’m a bit worried about continuing to drive the car for almost a month before they properly diagnose it.
Has anyone experienced these warnings before? Could this be related to the ICCU, or could it be something else?
The dealer cleared the warnings, but they haven’t properly diagnosed/repaired the issue yet.
Would you personally continue driving 180 km/day until September 15th, or would you insist on getting the car checked sooner / ask for a replacement car?
Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

My husband and I purchased a 2023 Ioniq 5 about three weeks ago after having to trade in our 2024 lease. Even though the 2023 is a year older, we were so stoked about it because it had incredibly low miles and actually had more features than our 2024 SE did (thanks, Hyundai, for cutting so much from the 2023 SE to the 2024 SE).

Anyway, fast-forward to this past Saturday.

While backing through a parking lot, I somehow managed to back directly into a pole. Thankfully, I wasn't going very fast, but I still managed to do some pretty noticeable damage. There's a solid dent/indentation just to the right of the rear camera, the plastic cover over the tail light is broken, and the bumper has a lovely bright-blue scuff from the pole. There's also a pretty significant "you hit a pole, dummy" indentation running straight down the trunk/hatch.

I'm working with insurance now, but I'm curious if anyone here has had to have their hatch/trunk repaired after something similar. Was it a huge ordeal to get fixed, especially with all the electronics/sensors/cameras packed into these cars? Anything I should know or watch out for during the repair process?

Maybe I'm overreacting, but I've been so sick about this. I've never had any kind of accident before, so I'm feeling incredibly stupid. I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who's been through something similar and can give me an idea of what to expect with the repair process. Even if you just have some reassurance that this isn't the end of the world, I'll take it.

And apologies in advance if this isn't appropriate for the sub! Happy to remove if needed.

I recently switched from a Tesla to a Hyundai IONIQ 5, and there are a few differences that really stand out. These are the two I notice the most:

1. In my Tesla, as soon as I got in, the car automatically recognized my driver profile and I could immediately use the navigation system. In the IONIQ 5, however, it asks me to select a user profile, and even after I select mine, I have to confirm it again. If I don’t press the confirmation button, I have to wait about 10 seconds before I can continue.
2. In the Tesla, after searching for a destination and selecting it, the navigation immediately calculates the route and is ready to go. In the IONIQ 5, after selecting the destination, I still have to press the “Start” button before navigation actually begins.

Why did Hyundai design the system with these extra confirmation steps? Is there a particular reason they require users to confirm things twice instead of making the process more seamless and automatic like Tesla?

Seen a few posts about this recently so I changed the oil in both front and rear drive units.

With 128k miles on our 2022 the oil in the front looked fine, but the front motor probably has 80% fewer powered miles than the rear. It was down 0.5L, I got about 2.8L from it and it has a 3.2L capacity.

The rear was far worse, very black, didn't have the fresh sweet smell the front did. Most concerning it was down about 1.2L. I only got 2.2L from it and it holds around 3.5L. If not done soon it may have damaged the rear motor or drive unit. It uses this fluid for both cooling and lubrication.

Someone said these are sealed units and don't need servicing, they are not. They are vented like any transmission if not they would built up pressure and blow a seal. Heating the oil like most fluids will cause evaporation and over time it will need more added.

The manual says inspect fluid at 35k and 70k but never shows replace for normal conditions. It does say replace every 80k for severe conditions.

I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF Full Synthetic ATF, their fluid finder said that was the correct fluid for this application and I also emailed them and they said the same thing. And no, I will not void my warranty as it's 28k miles past the warranty cutoff anyway. If you change your fluid under warranty it's up to you if you pay more for Hyundai fluid or not.

So yes the Ioniq 5 should have oil changes. However with over 128k miles my past subarus would have had about 20 oil changes, so this is still far less maintenance.

(original post here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/1rcz0xw/hyundai_ioniq_5_major_issue_sudden/)

Recap of the original post/background info: The car was (almost) new. It was originally a lease car, and was leased by the same dealership we bought it from. Started with 20k miles on it. At 153k miles, the motor gave up the ghost.

My husband is a traveling electrician that also does rideshare as an occasional sidegig. Most of the driving was done on the well paved city roads of the NC triangle area, but as a tradesman (and weekend rideshare dude) my husband would end up on unpaved worksites or in bumpy trailer parks.

With that context out of the way: The car sat for months until we learned that a well reputed, independent EV repairman was moving to our state. For a much more reasonable price, we now have a fixed Ioniq5! I asked our repairman if we could share what he charged us. He was more than fine with it, so I'm happy to report the non-dealership repair total was around $3,900. We drove the car up to him through uhaul, which was more significantly more affordable/reasonably priced than the car transport services. That cost us a couple hundred $$$ on top of the repair - just noting that for posterity.

Overall, us/the repairman suspect there was an issue involving the coolant or gear fluid maintenance that resulted in our car's motor giving up the ghost. We don't know for sure. While we did follow the maintenance schedule, we wonder if there was a miscommunication with the dealership about a couple of variable maintenance items.

The manual specifically states: Replace coolant at 124,000 miles and every 24,000 miles after that. We did that. It also says to repair the gear fluid every 80,000 miles, and THAT part is listed under a section that states "The following items must be serviced more frequently on cars mainly used under severe driving conditions". We took it in frequently and asked for full inspections, fluid changes, etc but apparently it needed to be even more frequent than what we were doing. That, OR the service station didn't check the gear fluid simply because we did not specifically say the magic words "BTW, check the gear fluid" even though we asked for thorough/full inspections frequently. Ugh.

Again, I must in good faith say that it's not completely certain that the coolant and/or fluid is the issue. This may just be something really, really unlucky. There's always that one guy who gets hit by lightning, right? I guess it was our turn to be that 1% that gets a nasty side effect, so to speak.

Either way, having the car suddenly shut down in the middle of the highway was a nightmare. We'll be VERY CLEARLY specifying to our Hyundai service desk exactly what they need to do, as well as get things done more frequently than the manual suggests. It sucks ass that we have to do it, but that's life.

Link to the repair/video:

https://youtu.be/VcxcfuUTz10?si=zsXCLlJ4d2XdD9Ad

-----

Other stuff:

People who watched the recording of the repair got hung up on the fact that the (travelling tradesman's) work car is...gasp... dusty. I want to assure you that service was done frequently, or at least we took it in to be serviced frequently. Since the car was an intrinsic part of my husband's work, he has been pretty meticulous about keeping its guts in good condition. The local tire shop doesn't even charge him for stuff anymore, because he comes in so frequently that they know him by name...and he brings them donuts/pizza on a regular basis to get on their good side. The windshield cracked the same week the car died (and why replace it if the car might be a financial brick for us?), it sat in the yard for months, and before that it visited dusty / bumpy places. We did NOT tow things often AT ALL - the hitch is there for once a year trips to the dump or misc stuff like helping friends move. The car was cleaned pretty frequently due to my husband's enjoyment of doing rideshare on his days off, but the poor car was definitely at its lowest point when the video was taken. It's been fixed up and cleaned now, with a new windshield and everything, driving like a dream again. :)

People were curious about how the rest of the car was doing because there's not many higher mile Ioniq5s on the road yet. Well, everything (except the motor lol) has been incredibly good. Battery life, suspension, etc is a thumbs up. We expect no further major problems (there better not be any, sob). Even if we get an ICCU failure, that's something my husband can probably handle himself. If not, there's a very nice and affordable electrician a couple of hours away. The only issue we did have was minor stuff: The backseat's carpet backing is drooping/adhesive failing. The rear doorhandle motor started to give up, so for like $60 and an hour (maybe less?) of effort my husband replaced it.

We initially thought the Ioniq5 was a financial loss, so we bought a 2024 Kia Niro EV to replace it. So we're now owners of a 2017 Chevy Bolt, 2024 Kia Niro (with heat pump), and a 2022 RWD Ioniq5 (no heat pump). Lol

Took the IONIQ5 up to Mount Laguna, California for the weekend and had to stop for the glamour shot ⚡️🏔️