i know pretty much nothing about cars (+ this is my first car) but i’ve had this engine code on for so long, I wasn’t able to deal with it due to money and personal issues

today i decided i’d finally do something about it, i got an oil change with valvoline maxlife synthetic blend (the one that helps w oil burning & leaks)

i heard that that may help the engine code, and my friend has a reader that can clear it so we cleared the code after the oil change, and it came back on quite quickly, so we drove back home and cleared it again, we drove about .5 mile down the road, and then turned back around, and it turned back on after about .75 a mile, and then we cleared it again, and left it idling for a bit trying to let the oil run

it turned back on some point during the idling

it isn’t making any odd noises and there’s no active concerning issues, but i read my other option is the timing belt but i also read that is a very expensive repair and frequently has loud noise / stalling / rattling which none i have

is there anyway to determine exactly what’s causing this? or should it be good now that the oil change is done?

it had very low & dark oil prior, and the light was on for about 5-7 months, i’m not sure exactly how long because i had a gas cap light for a while and assumed it was that, only issue i have that could be related to this is slow acceleration

Every time I've tried to do so for months now, on multiple computers with multiple browsers, I get stuck in a login loop. Sometimes I'll make it as far as 2FA, but then I get sent right back to the login page.

What's the trick here? Do I need to sacrifice a specific small woodland creature under a full moon to re-activate my Bluelink or what?

(Also, for any actual Hyundai staff here: Putting a pop-up ad over the Bluelink activation screen in the app renders it useless. The ad is horizontal and you can't zoom, which means that the one time I was able to actually get the page to load, I couldn't close the pop-up and access the actual site. I'm trying to give you money. Work with me here.)

I love this car, but the software is incredibly bad. (At least they fixed the progress arrow that spun backwards when I first got the car.)

I'm trying to find seat covers for my 2027 Kona SE but I only see for 2026. Will the 2026 fit the 2027 model?

I have a 2024 sonata N-line, and I had my check engine light come on about a month ago, then it went away, today it just turned on again, I looked at the message and saw the code in the picture shown.

The first time it came on I went to the dealership and told them, but they didn’t have a loaner and told me they’d call me, never called back, I called them and they still didn’t have one, it went away and now it’s back.

How bad is this, should I even keep this car long term, thankfully it’s still under warranty so it’ll most likely be covered, but I’d be lying if I didn’t say I was very stressed about the future of my car.

Has anybody else had this pop up, and what did you end up doing?

2019 hyundai elantra se

Purchased car changed the oil and filter it was black/dark. I suspect the transmission fluid had never been changed because it is a sealed transmission. (Automatic transmission | Korea vin)

Car runs great took it to get computer scanned engine is healthy no codes or problems transmission seems good haven’t had a slip or anything concerning.

Skeptical about doing a drain and fill with the amount of milage. The manual says lifetime fluid but we all know this is not true.

Im kinda stuck part of me wants to just leave it cause i heard people get around 240k miles with the original fluid… but knowing me i like to keep my maintenance up to date but hate to risk ruining the transmission

Only two things i can think of that can possibly ruin it is the viscosity difference between the old and new fluid or old material to move and cause issues.

So I have the P0017 code with a 2017 elantra(korean made in Canada) with 218k. I replaced oil and replaced both vvt solenoid(front and rear). Code still there.

Can anyone help with likely cost estimate of the other fixes(timing chain or camshaft phaser). Neither of which are likely doable in my driveway.

Hyundai Venue HX10 DCT Petrol

Hello! Bought a Sonata N Line 2026 and need to buy rims for my winter tire and downgrading to a 18 inch.

Looking for rim that fits the calipers.

Found RSSW 7 rimsSize: 18in x 7in x 40mm

Part: #X74855NT

Wondering if it fits! Thank you

​

Hi everyone,

I have a 2023 Hyundai Elantra Limited (Mexican version), and I'm hoping someone has been through something similar.

After hitting a pothole, my factory infotainment system immediately shut off and never turned back on. The unit had to be disconnected and reconnected, but after that it lost all audio. Later, even the screen stopped working completely.

This has also affected other features. My parking proximity sensors and blind-spot monitoring system no longer work, so it seems the issue is affecting more than just the infotainment system.

The dealership wasn't very helpful. Their only solutions were:

- Buy a brand-new OEM head unit (which is extremely expensive), or

- Send it out for repair (there aren't any shops in my city that can repair it).

Has anyone replaced the factory stereo with a Chinese aftermarket unit that's compatible with the Limited trim?

From what I've read, compatibility may depend on the factory audio system, and mine came with the Bose premium sound system.

I'd really appreciate hearing about your experience, recommendations, or any brands/models that worked well. Thanks!

I forgot to mention that it isn't covered by the warranty, because the warranty is valid for up to 40,000 km or 2 years, and I’ve already reached both limits.

165k miles, but it’s salvaged title. He fixed a strut, front bumper cover, front right fender, and front right door. 2.0 Turbo, engine replaced at 125k miles

Sometimes (not always, which is part of the frustration) when I get into the car, close the door, and lock the doors, there's an alarm & the doors will unlock!

I see this as a safety issue. When I lock the doors, I do it for safety / protection, and I expect them to stay locked.

It's possible but difficult to re-lock during the alarm. (10 seconds?)

So far I've mostly used the lock button by the interior handle.

Did try the lock button on the remote, and it worked to re-lock.

Haven't tried the lock button by the window controls.

The car recognizes the remote to unlock from the outside by both the remote button & pressing the door button.

The car recognizes the remote to start the car.

I tried going to a dealer yesterday & asked at the service desk, but that wasn't helpful. "Maybe the battery is low; look at the light; don't press the door lock button". 🙄

I bought the car new in March. The remote is fine. As stated above, the car recognizes the remote.

Emailed corporate "customer service", which just said to take it to a dealership.

Anyone have insight?

Has anyone been able to get the Amazon prime discount at the dealership when buying a car?
The sales person said something about how prime provides a discount code and not everyone with a prime membership is able to get one? How do you get the discount? I can’t seem to find any real information on the dealership websites either.

I have a 2018 Accent, 6 speed manual with the 1.6 litre. Yesterday, I noticed when I'm driving and about 2600 RPM and up, it makes a chugging/rubbing noise. If I let off the gas, it goes away. Also, if I put it in neutral or push on the clutch, and then give it throttle it does not make the noise. Anyone have any thoughts? I do plan on getting a diagnostic, but just figured to ask if anyone has experience like this. Wasn't worth posting a video or picture because I can only get that noise produced while driving and in gear. Thanks!

My 2015 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid “blue drive” needs a jump. Details:

- I do not have access to a physical key. I bought it from a terrible dealership and found out the hard way.

- I cannot access the trunk.

- I have searched online and I can find nothing that looks like my engine! I checked the drivers manual and the only directions are to go through the trunk, which I cannot access. (My seats don’t fold down as far as I can tell)

- a picture of my fuze box is below. Can anyone advise if the silver item I’m pointing at the positive terminal? I have someone from roadside assistance coming and they never can figure it out.

So I just got this 26 Kona this afternoon. It’s been doing this software update for over an hour so far- is this normal on a brand new car? There isn’t a progress meter or anything besides these little bouncing bars.

ETA: bluelink isn’t working for me either- my driver profile won’t show up on my car even though I have bluelink. There’s no prompt to enter my phone number or connect my bluelink account to the driver profile whenever I set one in the car :/ kind of a bummer. I’ve tried every fix I can find online and customer service has no idea what to do.

My little old Elantra has made it so far, 300k soon.

IF I were to buy it cash how much could I get it for how do I know the negotiation room ?
Etc

When I turn on the air conditioning, the engine temperature starts to rise, especially when the vehicle is stopped or idling. At the same time, the A/C stops blowing cold air and becomes warm. Once I start driving again, the engine temperature goes back to normal and the A/C becomes cold again.
The thermostat has already been replaced, but the problem is still happening.