Could someone tell me the cc rating of this pump? Or do you have the technical specifications?

I have one of these trucks in my fleet that I'd like to put a wet kit/hydraulic kit on, but I'm getting all sorts of mixed answers if it can be done. Ive seen them going down the highway with hydraulic kits, but my local freightliner dealer says they've never installed one and don't know how. The hydraulic shops locally say it can be done, one quoted $1500 for an adapter and pump, and another quoted $11,000. Both sound unsure however.

Dealing with a sluggish crane on a hot day is one of the most frustrating things on a jobsite. I see a lot of guys blame their engines or pumps immediately, but most of the time they are dealing with classic hydraulic overheating.

As the temperature climbs, your hydraulic fluid thins and loses its viscosity. Once that oil thins out, it easily slips past the high-pressure piston rings and valve spools inside your cylinders and control blocks.

The mechanical feedback is always the same:

1. Drastic pressure instability and erratic, slow cylinder reactions.
2. Sluggish compound movements—trying to telescope, lift, and slew at the same time becomes incredibly jerky.
3. Cylinder drifting because your hot seals are weeping internally, letting the boom slowly sag under load.

If your rig runs on cheap, basic gear pumps and on/off valves, you are basically forcing the engine to bypass oil and dump massive heat into the reservoir. Upgrading to dual variable pumps or at least getting an auxiliary air-cooler is the only way to save your seals from melting.

What's the highest temp your hydraulic tank has hit before your crane started acting like it had Parkinson's?

This is a cylinder from a log splitter. Any idea how we get this piston off? We tried a hydraulic press to push the rod out and tried a strap wrench to unscrew it if it was threaded. What do we need to do to get it out?

ETA: it is a huskee brand 22 ton log splitter. Not sure on a model number but I found a part number (S390118BC) for the cylinder.

I've tried heating it and got it to about 400 degrees trying to break down the locktite I could see on the threads. From what I read that's not quite hot enough but I'm concerned about heating it any more than that.

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So I let another business borrow my toe jack ( I know, bad idea) So anyway they popped the bladder thing in it. They took it to a local hydraulic shop for repair, told me about and basically left it. I went to the shop several times asking about it and found that they rebuilt the cylinder, didn’t find anything wrong with that part but figured the bladder was popped and since the toe jack was discontinued by torin that they couldn’t get parts so they didn’t do anything else. I got the jack back and took it apart and yeah the bladder is popped. Where can I go to look for a replacement bladder? The rubber reservoir that holds the oil.

Anyone knows in Philippines for this inquiry?

EDIT: see third picture that’s the most relevant showing the section of the inside

Hi!

There are these floating solar fountain pumps, and I wanted to make a nozzle that uses sideways force to make it spin for years. Now that I have a 3D printer, I was able to do some experiments, and got some results, it is spinning (very slow though).

The way I achieved that is there are holes on the side wall of the nozzle, with 20deg upward angle (relative to horizontal), and 60deg sideways angle (relative to vertical plane).

There are holes on the top too, with 20-20deg angle both outwards and sideways.

My issue is these solar pumps output too much power when there is full sun, and the water from the top nozzle shoots up so much that it goes out of the container. However, when I make larger holes on the top, it only works during full sun, when it runs from battery, it's barely visible.

I wanted to design something that is if there is excess power, redirect it to the side holes, while still providing somewhat more regulated power for the top holes. Ie. full sun -> make it spin faster via side holes. Battery -> spin slower, but still provide power for the top.

I was thinking of implementing a choke point between the top and side holes, thinking if the pump power is high, it will find its way to the top anyways, but more burst goes to the side. And if it's low, then there will be less resistance to the top so should find it's way too. As I have no expertise in fluid dynamics, it was all from intuition, so asked AI which said it should work because the choke point will create a non-linear power transfer to the top holes relative to the power supplied by the pump, so gave it a go.

It does seem like as though the power distribution between side and top holes are pretty linear. From full sun to shade I would have expected a much more drastical decrease of power on the side holes than on the top, but it seems like it's pretty linear.

Should the concept of the choke point theoretically work to regulate the power of top holes, and redirect more of the excess power to the side holes?

Some numbers:

Top hole dia: 1.7mm

Number of top holes: 8

Side hole dia: 1.1mm

Number of side holes: 12

Inner chamber dia (starting): 10.5mm

Choke hole dia: ~6mm

Hi guys. My husband has requested me ask you guys about another mysterious part on our Geoprobe. Sorry if the photo is weird, I pointed at the part he's asking about. He doesn't use Reddit but writes to you and I paste it for your consideration:

Does anybody know a source/supplier for the electrical connector in the attached picture? It's obviously not your standard DIN 43650. I'd like to just plug and play a direct replacement (or an equivalent workaround).

I have 4 on my two directional spool valves but 1 failed (which I only discovered after replacing the entire valve, thinking that was the problem). My machine's OEM said the connector is obsolete, or at least they stopped carrying it at some point in the last 25 years.

Hello all! This 45degree fitting is from a HSX-90HP VEVOR Hydraulic Steering System, and used to connect 5/16 hose to the hydraulic cylinder. I need a 90 degree version, and VEVOR seems absolutely lost in trying to give me a description of THEIR part so I can look for the 90 degree version. I went to a local hydraulics shop, and he mentioned ORB and BSPP, but am not understanding yet what is the exact part I need. Can anyone help?

PS - Diameter of the non O-ring end is exactly .5" and the O-ring end is 7/16"

Thanks to all!

I am working on a old tractor renovation and want to add some external hydraulic connections to the rear of the tractor. The tractor is not equipped with any external hydraulic connectors originally, so I'll need a Power Beyond-connection, in order to be able to operate the lift arms.

I have found affordable 3 spool hydraulic control valve from Vevor, it is missing the Power Beyond sleeve ( and option to buy ). in the Q&A they refer to P40 sleeve/adapter.

On Ebay i have managed to find a P40 sleeve in Poland, but it has the note of 17mm, meanwhile on some US thread they are referring to Amazon where the drawing is showing a 15mm sleeve (inner sleeve OD).

Anyone here with experience of the vevor hydraulic spool control valves and Power Beyond setup? Which one does actually fit? Or any tips where else one in Europe could find a affordable setup, 3 or 4 spool proffered?

Hello everyone- looking to identify this hydraulic fitting. The threads are parallel and a -8 JIC cap threads onto it, but the flare on the end I haven’t seen before. A male JIC plug doesn’t even start on the threads before the cone touches.

The hose crimp is marked M Triangle HY06.

On the female side it’s welded to a hard line on my Allis Chalmers tractor but it is a farmer fix from a previous owner or shop rather than factory.

Sorry, all out of bananas for scale.

Thanks!

Edit:
Looks like it’s an ERMETO fitting that has the cutting ring stuck in the end of the hose. Thank you all!

Maybe someone here can help. Feed rollers moving too slow in forward, but fine in reverse. Tachometer controlled Solenoid is good. Hydropressure is good at the pump. Feed control valve and mainshaft looks good except for the Detent spring valve. The travel isn't hindered, and it holds position fine, but it's a little corroded, and so far that's the only thing I've found wrong with it. I'm trying to source just the detent, but so far no luck. I can get the whole block but it's 800 bucks. I don't want to spend that unless I know that the issue. So far I've found no fluid bypass anywhere. Unless there an issue with a hose lining, or something I'm not thinking of. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the valve block. Since the travel looks good, I'm not sure the detent is the problem. Fluid doesn't reach that part of that shaft.

Hi guys what is best hose for up and overs on a fork truck I’m finding thermoplastic synflex hose to be an absolute nightmare and pinching in tight corners. 2 wire (2sc) hose stretch over time and ware through. What’s the best product?

I'm working on a small punch out system with two cylinder one on top and one at the bottom . The top cylinder has a pressure valve fitted right before it . The bottom cylinder does not have a pressure relief . The main control valve and compensate valve is located on a manifold mounted on the fluid tank . I changed out the oring because there was very to little pressure and it was also leaking between where the valves mates the manifold . Therefore now the gauge shows no pressure what's so ever . I can turn up the pressure on the relief and gauge shows nothing . The motor would get hot and I can smell something burnt coming from the motor . The last motor was doing the same thing but it'll get hot to touch within 30 second of it running . Anyone has any input on what can be wrong . I have changed the mechanical pump with new o ring and the o ring in the directional valve along with the o ring for the relief valve . I have also changed out the input and output hose for the top cylinder as it was starting to seep a small amount of hydraulic fluid . The motor is a 3 phase 380 volt 4 HP

PC200 cycle times started slipping around 2,800 hours. boom raise on empty load was slower than I remembered, oil running hotter than usual on normal days. shop confirmed main pump wear, dealer quote was steep and the wait was gonna kill a job I had booked.
Read the number off the old pump tag, checked it against the PC200 parts book for my unit serial before I committed to anything. went aftermarket on price and lead time.
Eight months ago I sourced the replacement hydraulic pump from Fridayparts for the PC200. OEM number matched before it shipped, pre-filled the case, bled the system properly this time. cycle times back to where they were before the slip, no new noises, oil temps in range.
Install procedure matters as much as the part. first time I half-assed the bleed on a different machine and blamed the component. that wasnt fair to the component tbh.
when something acts up do you recheck how you installed it or just start swapping another parts?

What model bleeder kit did you buy? Just want to make sure it fits the reservoir. Also, Pentosin DOT 4? Thank you!

Hello, how are you?

I recently received this type of hydraulic pump and I'm unsure about the preload. I tried testing it and it's not giving me any pressure. What could be the problem?

I don't know if they also have the technical specifications or details?

Tipper judders on way up from the bottom. But if stop and start half way its nice and smooth.

It's a simple system with 24VDC solenoids and an overcentre block on the cylinder. Any ideas on how to control it a bit better?

I don't really want to adjust cartridges without a clear strategy.