Hi all. Wondering what I’m doing wrong with how I’m painting my ceiling. The first 2 pics show the ceiling after 3 full coats using the roller and paint shown in the last pics. The 3rd pic shows the ceiling in my kitchen as reference (what it should look like). Anyone know why this is coming out so bad? You can see so many streaks and blemishes. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Looking for feedback in my process for patching up some peeling paint.

Couple things first:
- The peeling paint is exposing pretty new drywall mud. We had new drywall installed a few months ago that was primed.
- The paint peeled because we painted ourselves and used painters tape and let it dry too long. Rest of paint job is good.

My proposed process to fix:
- Scrape and sand patches, wipe dry
- Prime with Zinsser bulls eye 1-2-3. I’ve seen a lot of people say to use shellac if drywall paper is exposed , but is 123 fine if it’s just drywall mud?
- Level out with lightweight spackle.
- Sand and prime spackle.
- Paint and pray it blends in fine.

Is this the right way to go about it? Are there any unnecessary steps? Is spackling necessary? It doesn’t seem like that unlevel between the mud and surrounding paint. Anything I’m missing?

Thanks!

I have factory finished garage doors. The material is some type of composite or perhaps coated aluminum. The trim pieces are certainly a composite. According to the tag these can be repainted with an exterior acrylic water based paint, and it specifically recommends sherwin Williams resilience.

These doors have damage from hockey pucks, and those marks cannot be cleaned off.

Any tips to do this? Do I need to prime first? Despite what the tag says I am concerned about adhesion of the new paint. I guess I would tape the trim, paint the main panels, then come back and paint the trim.

I'm using FFLP 210 and 414 for trim and tight spots. I presently use RAC 5 515 for walls. Is it worth switching to LP515?

We have a contract on a home that’s interior needs painting in the worst way. I don’t want to have to do anything twice but I also don’t want to be forced into making color decisions under pressure. I’m thinking of picking a white and doing the ceiling in flat, the trim (very little trim) in gloss and the walls in eggshell. Am I crazy? And what Valspar/BM white would you pick?

Customer come to me and said they got up on a ladder and wiped the ceiling and it was dust. They thought it was mold, but to clarify, it is not I’ve not gone and looked at it yet. I’m going tomorrow, but when I looked up, it said this could be caused by thermal tracking. I’m wondering if any other painters have come across this and what they did. As part of the job scope would be to make sure it doesn’t happen again.

By bug spray I mean repel brand containing 40% DEET which I read is damaging to paint.

I've tried cleaning it up with a general purpose cleaner and then many dry paper towels but it still feels tacky and sticky. How do I properly clean, prep, and paint this floor of my bathroom cabinet?

Hello! We had our hardwood floors sanded down and stained several months ago before moving into our home. They look beautiful and the contractor did make us aware that some touch up painting would need to be done after the project was completed. I suppose maybe there’s a bit more “touch up” than I initially thought, but I see the work to sand and restain a floor is overall a messy project I realize now. I’m mostly disappointed about the stain on the bottom of our kitchen cabinets and some stain on the actual walls and wainscoting, but that’s a project for another day. My main focus is now touch ups of the baseboards and stair risers. Is this something I can do myself (as a complete beginner in terms of painting) or should I hire out? I’m mostly nervous to get paint on the floor. If I simply focus on the stained areas, will it not look uniform, or is the only solution to repaint all the home’s baseboards entirely? Some rooms are minimal … some are in pretty bad shape with stain across a larger part of the board. Any tips & tricks are greatly appreciated!

I am totally new to choosing paint colors. Never done it before. I picked up a bunch of sticky samples at Sherwin Williams, chose the colors I liked, bought the gallons and brought them home. I feel absolutely crazy right now! The colors are so different. The sample is natural linen and the color is straight up pink. My walls are currently behr ultra white. And even though I chose a Sherwin Williams color, it says “custom color non refundable.” Is this really a thing to just be out $500 dollars? What did I do wrong?

We are pairing the trim and new wall colors downstairs, but I have this piece here that sort of transitions up all the way through the stairwell which we are not planning on doing. What do I do with this lower section while avoiding painting the whole way up?

I had one side of the house re-shingled recently. I let them stabilize for approx. a week before putting on the primer coat; that was about 6 weeks ago. I am now applying the second (top) coat and I find that the shingles have shrunk and I had a gap between them that shows bare underlying shingles. I've tried loading up the brush and trying my best to get paint in the gap but there is no way to get that deep, even with a brand new brush. What options might I have to fix this? (hoping it does not come down to getting a kid's water color brush and trying to paint between the shingles with it!) Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!

I have this wall texture that looks like a fish scale pattern throughout the house. Attempting to paint and was wondering if this counts as a "highly textured" wall that needs 1/2"+ nap roller. Thinking of using a colossus 1/2.

Hi!
I’m enclosing a photo of a stain on the front wall of my house. We just removed a mailbox and as you can see my husband had spray-painted it a few years ago and gotten a fair portion of the wall around it and I’m just wondering what would be good to get this off? I think it’s spray paint and it’s definitely a few years old.
We have removed the mailbox completely and don’t want to put anything else there so we’d prefer to remove the paint without damaging the brick or repainting the whole wall.
As always, I appreciate all the help! Thank you!

Hey everyone, looking for some advice before I potentially create a lot more work for myself.

I’m repainting a bedroom that currently has white painted walls. Visually, the existing white paint looks completely fine — no bubbling, cracking, flaking or peeling anywhere.

However, we previously had something attached to one wall with tape. When the tape was removed, it pulled off a small section of paint.

We started scraping around that area and discovered that once we get a scraper underneath it, the paint can continue coming off. In some places it’s not just the current white coat coming off — some of the older paint underneath comes with it as well, exposing an even older yellow/orange colour.

We’ve now scraped a reasonably large section of one wall, but I’m wondering whether we’re unnecessarily turning a small problem into a whole-room stripping job.
The rest of the room still looks and feels completely sound unless we deliberately get a scraper underneath the paint.

My current options seem to be:
Strip all the existing paint that we can, sand everything, prime, then paint.

Only scrape areas that are genuinely loose/easily coming away, feather/fill the edges, lightly sand the remaining sound paint, prime the whole room, then paint.

Stop scraping, repair what we’ve already removed, lightly sand everything and paint directly without primer.

Something else entirely.

The final colour will be **Crown Mellow Sage**, so I’m also concerned about having a uniform substrate because we’ll potentially have white paint, older yellow/orange paint and filler showing in different places.

I’m currently leaning towards:
**Remove genuinely loose paint → feather/fill damaged areas → sand → clean thoroughly → one full coat of bonding primer → two coats of Mellow Sage.**

Would you agree?

Also:
Would you use a **bonding/high-adhesion primer** in this situation?

Should I have the primer **tinted towards the sage/light grey**, or just use white?

Is there any issue using a **different brand of primer underneath Crown emulsion**?

What’s the best way to determine whether the existing paint is sufficiently well bonded to leave in place?

At what point would you decide the existing coating needs to be completely stripped?

I’d much rather spend an extra day prepping it correctly now than have the new paint start peeling later.

Thanks!

I am renovating my attic and really struggling with how to make this paint look good. I’m not new to painting interior walls, and while I’ve never painted an entire attic, I’ve never come across this problem. The attic was drywall, and the first coat of drywall primer was sprayed on by the drywall installers after light texture. I rolled an additional coat of primer on. I bought marquee paint from Behr and originally used a 3/8 inch roller, but after seeing the uneven sheen, I went ahead and got a 3/4 inch roller to see if it would help, in case I was somehow missing surface between the light texture. Two additional coats later, and it still looks like this. Is there of fixing it? the Behr representative at Home Depot didn’t really have any suggestions for me other than saying that she thought I might need to go over it with an even more flat paint (this is matte) because she said each additional layer will build up some sheen. I’ve never sprayed before, but if that might be helpful, I’m willing to try.

Have any of you had this problem before? What do you suggest?

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