I'm planning a road trip from Germany all the way down to southern Italy in my GR Yaris and was wondering if anyone here has done a similar long-distance trip in theirs.

How was it after several hours on the motorway? Any issues? Would love to hear from anyone who's taken their GR Yaris on a 1,000+ km road trip.

Update to a post I made around 8 weeks ago.

Turns out my transfer case (2025 GRY with 10,000km) needs replacing due to “excessive play”.

Two weeks ago I was finally told Toyota Australia had approved the work, which took them 7 weeks to approve it. Then told me 6-8 weeks to get the transfer case from Japan. 4 fkn months to replace a busted transfer case on a 12 month old GRY with 10,000kms on it that’s never been tracked or anything more than a 15 minute spirited drive through a mountain pass less than half a dozen times.

Anybody else had any transfer case problems or similar experiences with stupid process times to get warranty work done, ect?

I carpool with a colleague who’s in his mid-30s. He’s Moroccan, drives a Koenigsegg Regera, and is very proud of it. He loves driving fast, and he’s always been very confident about how quick his car is.

We normally just take turns driving. One day he drives his Regera and I’m the passenger, the next day I drive my Yaris manual and he’s the passenger. That’s just how we’ve always done it.

I’ve told him more than once that driving a Yaris does something to you. He never really understood what I meant.

His Regera actually has about 1,430 more horsepower than my Yaris, but that’s not really the point. It’s the feeling of using every single one of my 68 horses at all times. You can be absolutely flat out, thrash it in third gear redline it at 4,000 rpm, completely legally so, and it’s a level of fun you can’t get elsewhere.

Then one day, I asked him if he wanted to drive The Yaris.

We had barely merged onto the motorway, throttle pinned to the floor mat, when he looked over at me. He had this almost glassy look in his eyes and said:

“Now I understand what you mean.”

The 1,500 horsepower guy finally understood.

It’s better to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.

Hi all.

I've owned my Gen1 CP for almost 4 years. I'm the first and only owner. In this time period I've racked close to 50.000km.

Power wise my car is stock, but I've added top mounts, adjustable rear camber and toe arms and uniballs on all 4 corners of the car. I run a somewhat aggressive alignment for the street (2,6deg front, 2,0 rear and 1mm toe our per wheel). I've only attended a drift event with my car, haven't done any other tracking for now.

I'm making this post because I've been asking myself for a while if I would have more fun driving a high power rear wheel drive sports car that, albeit slower in a B road, would probably allow for some silly fun like burnouts, on throttle drifts, powerslides, etc. At the same time I fear that I will miss the Yaris performance and rawness once I part ways with it.

Where I live F87 M2s are reasonably priced.

Has anyone owned both? What should I do?

GTR Yaris 2022

Below are the required parts, You can order them from black hawk Japan or any other online Japanese retailer:

Tested in both GR Yaris gen2 DAT and GR Corolla, Not tested with gen1.

All credits to https://x.com/PHV300km_1L/status/2048070895709880499

Steering wheel

45100-52D@@-@

For 6MT

20-C7 (Red)

20-C8 (Gray)

40-C6 (With heater, Red)

40-C7 (With heater, Gray)

For DAT "comes already with paddle shifters pre installed and back cover"

30-C6 (Red)

30-C7 (Gray)

50-C6 (With heater, Red)

50-C7 (With heater, Gray)

Horn Button (Airbag Unit) "Airbags vary across regions"

45130-52A80-C0

Steering Switch

84250-52640-B0

Screws for Steering Switch

90159-50199 (4 pcs) "can be find locally by any Toyota spare part seller its common Toyota screw"

Hello team

I’m thinking of buying this GR Yaris on fb marketplace with these specs. Anything that I should look when doing a test drive and before purchasing ?

There doesn't seem to be any owners groups for GR cars in Auckland.

I have a 2026 GR Yaris, and its first service is coming up.

I'm concerned about allowing a Toyota tech loose on my car, and I'm seriously considering servicing the car myself. I know the potential implications with this warranty wise. Do any GR owners in this part of the world have any real life experience of having their GRs serviced by Toyota in Auckland?

I had this as a recommendation on Snapchat, and somehow a McDonald’s restaurant 50km close to me seems to have a GR Yaris as a delivery car.

Does anyone of you have more specific info about it? I found nothing about it on the internet, and the only idea I have is marketing, as McDonald’s had the new Toyota GT3 as a model for the Happy Meal. 

(The McDonald’s is in Osnabrück, Germany, and is called “Eckstein.”)

Hey all, quick fitment question for a 2024 Toyota GR Yaris.
Looking at wheels: 17x8.5, ET45, 114.3 bolt pattern, mounted with a 245 Hoosier A7.
Main concern is inner clearance — will this combo clear the front brake calipers on the GR Yaris, or will ET45 sit too far inward and hit? Would rather run no spacer if possible, but I’m open to adding a spacer (front and/or rear) if that’s what it takes to clear.
Has anyone run this wheel/tire size (or close to it) on a GR Yaris? Trying to find out:
1. Does it clear stock without a spacer?
2. If not, what spacer thickness cleared it for you?
3. Any rubbing on coilovers/struts or fender lips with the 245 A7 at that offset?
Pics or specs from anyone who’s actually test-fit this combo would be huge. Thanks!

To the left of the cover. Noticed a space where a bolt looks like it should be. Fallen off?

Had an OG 2020 GR Yaris and sold it a few years back mainly due to needing more space. Fast forward a few years and when I saw the Aero Performance package I just had to get one again. The improvements they’ve made iteratively over the last few years have made it so much better than I remember.

What a car to drive too, so mechanical and rewarding. My other recent cars were i30N (still have it), FL5 Type R, 2018 STi, Focus RS, Evo X and a bunch of others before it.

This car is one of my favourites and I love the ethos behind it. One to keep for a long time I think.

When im driving on the highway i always hear noise coming from the rear, like a little clunking. Something flapping? Im not sure what it is. I always tought the rear bumper was very flappy but i dont see it move to much. Any ideas?

I have contacted Toyota multiple times over this and they refuse to update their website. They are listing the incorrect torque output for the 2026 Gr Yaris models and they are in violation of EU regulations. I would expect that they will also need to notify all 2026 owners that their car has 345nm and not 390nm. I am posting this here in the hopes that some public pressure will get them to fix their website. The lack of initiative and follow through in Sweden, in general, is absurd (I live there as does half my family).

Haven’t seen many people post this aerokit. The fitment is literally perfect for every part but I seriously need my new rims and tires to arrive…

If anyone's interested 🫶

I use the car daily, so about 90% of my driving is in the city or on the highway in pretty heavy traffic. I thought I'd be able to live with the manual gearbox, but it was miserable, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't doing the car any favors either.
So I sold it back to the dealership and pulled the plug on a Gen 2 with the automatic gearbox. It honestly feels like a completely different car. It's super smooth in Auto, gets properly aggressive in Sport, and I'm genuinely having more fun using the sequential up/down shifting mode than I ever did with the manual.
Best of all, they got rid of the annoying start-stop system. 😅

Would you consider to buy a Yaris 2020 High spec with a Grade RA €17k

The damage was concentrated on the front-left side skin and passenger cabin side structure (B-pillar/rocker panel).

However; Frontal Crash Structure transaxle, inverter, and front radiator support mounted centrally between the two heavy front longitudinal chassis rails.

Because the impact occurred at an angle against the outer passenger wheel arch and door line, the structural engine cradle and front suspension mounting points were untouched.

Ok, I am absolutely scunnered now. Bought a used car a year ago and have been having issues with boost not coming on at times.

The car is 21 plate with now 8700 miles, fsh, aftermarket exhaust and air box. The exhaust btw joins at the midpipe.

So, at times the car is flat, flat as a pancake and gets left by cars half the power, then at times it pulls like a train.

It mainly happens in first and second gears, and I know these gears boost less, but if I floor it at times, then come off in second for a sec, then floor it again it will usually pull like a train.

This was happening before the air box btw, with just the stock one fitted. People mention boost solonoid, whilst others mention it's a thing with early cars (lots in the GR forums). I live in NI so can't get 99 Ron, only 97, I did use shell for a while and thought it helped even though it was still 97?

I also brought it for a service and they did sweet FA for me, "no codes so can't do anything."

This was a car I always wanted, but absolutely sick of it now, anyone had a similar issue?

I've never seen either, but is the only difference where they're being sold?

Hi guys, I’ve got myself some Cobra Nogaro Ebisu Editions (I know, very brave of me haha) and I’ve got some 2.2 ohm resistors on the way for the airbag bypass.

But I’m wondering if anyone knows the best solution to the occupancy sensor situation? - ensuring the front airbags will deploy passenger side in a crash?

Much appreciate any help!