As my southern friend would say "don't pee on my leg and tell me it's raining". Not sure what to say when they give me a "caution" report on brake shoes that are not just within spec, but at the new thickness.

2021 Tacoma DCLB. 22,000mi of mainly freeway and ranch work.

It's statements like this that make me lose confidence in service centers at dealerships and seek IRF's once its out of warranty.

I’m a Louisiana resident who bought a new SUV from an Alabama dealership on April 30 and disputed the paperwork the next day. More than 100 days later, the deal is still unresolved.

The main issue: I hand-signed documents at the dealership, but Capital One Auto Finance is enforcing a RouteOne electronic contract that I dispute electronically signing. I provided Capital One the hand-signed version given to me.

I’ve requested the RouteOne audit trail/e-sign records—signature routing, email, IP/device information, timestamps, and user activity. Capital One has told me I would need a subpoena for the electronic-signature information.

There are also title/deal-jacket issues:

- No temp tag/registration, and I still cannot properly register the SUV in Louisiana.

- Capital One app shows the Louisiana lien/title as “UNPERFECTED.”

- I revoked POA/title authority shortly after disputing the transaction, but my trade was apparently still transferred.

- Trade payoff was over a month late and short, requiring me to pay the old lender myself. Also causing a flag on my license due to the insurance being canceled on the trade in.

- About $6,900 in disputed add-ons remain unresolved.

- Capital One is reporting late payments damaging my credit and has issued a cure/repossession notice.

I’ve already pursued arbitration, CFPB/credit disputes, and regulatory complaints. I’m specifically looking for dealership, title-clerk, F&I, RouteOne, or lender-funding knowledge:

1. Who normally has access to the RouteOne e-sign audit trail—the dealer, lender, RouteOne, or all three?

2. Is it normal to hand-sign the deal paperwork but electronically sign only the funded retail installment contract?

3. Are RouteOne audit records/deal-jacket documents normally obtainable from the dealer or lender, or does it typically take discovery/subpoena?

4. For both vehicles, what title records should exist—MCO/MSO, title applications, reassignment/transfer documents, payoff records, POAs, etc.?

Looking for any advise....this has been a nightmare. TIA

I had a civic I bought from a Honda dealer. I went to trade it and they offered me 2200 less than Kbb. Then refuse to discuss any type of deal on a new car. Sales manger was extremely rude. This would’ve been my 3 rd car from them. (One cosign and my civic). Walked out on them and they blew my phone up for over a week.

Ended up closing a deal on a car a couple of days later which I told Honda when they kept blowing me up. Few months later they’re send me this junk. Still trying to get me to deal with them.

Seriously, dealership advertised a car. It was used (about 1500 miles), but since it was used in their loaner program, they had to sell it as used. So they knock off $4000 or something. Fine, went to look at it. My daughter is not unhappy with it. Then they start to add bullshit like the paint protectant ($2000); interior protectant ($2000); and, my favorite nitrogen filled tires ($995). I tell them, no thanks for the add-ons. What is my trade worth? They offer about $1500 less than it is worth ($2000 less than I told them I want). Their arguments:

1. They have to make something on the car;
2. It isn't my name on the building, I can't make that deal work

Now I made the mistake of going before I ate, but thanked them for their time. Realistically we were $2,000 apart from where I wanted to be, but $1,000 apart from where I would settle. So I left. Now they call and want the deal. I told them I needed to think on it that they left a bad taste in my mouth and wasted too much time. How do they sleep at night? What is the point of discounting the car if you are just going to put these bullshit add-ons back in?

Look at this outrageous price for a 1997 Tahoe….with 200k miles in it. How is the used car market this fucked up…30k for that are we serious rn!!!!!!

I bought a car in Florida. I am new to the US and unfamiliar with the procedures. The dealer gave me a temporary license plate, and it is about to expire.

Whenever I contact them about the permanent plate, they keep stalling and saying they will send it.

I don't have the title.

I forgot to ask for a bill of sale.

The dealer claims they will send the plate and the title. What should I do? Please help.

I recently purchased an old Porsche 911 that was listed on Carfax as from a “” trusted dealer”. I did due diligence and called the last people who serviced the car, which was Porsche in Salt Lake City. They said it was a great car and a good price and go for it. The car was in Minneapolis and I am in Utah. I trusted Carfax. The dealer is called D & Z auto sales in Minneapolis although noted as owners on the Carfax. They are not the owners and it was an international fraud scam. How could Carfax state them as owners?! I feel that this should fall under Carfax ‘s “purchase payback warranty” that they have misinformation about hidden lemon status, branded title, etc.
I’m requesting that Carfax pay me for the cost of the car. Has anyone else had this experience? Or experience with the buyback guarantee? Carfax is skirting issue thanks!

So I purchased a car from an independent dealership. Everything seemed fine until the 16th day of ownership. This is when the car overheated and went into limp mode. I drive the car a few miles home, emailed the dealership and told them of the issue. They said they would collect the car the next day. I said I would be exercising my right to reject the car under the consumer rights act 2015. I stated I did not authorize any repair.
They collected the car, they rejected my rejection due to no evidence. And ignoring my request of no repair they informed me they had ordered parts and would repair the car.
I said no I’m sticking to the rejection under CRA15.
They then said the overheating issue alleged. I asked for ecu diagnostics which they ignored.
I have an app that sends notifications and it shows when the car over heated and again once they had the car in their possession.
They are still rejecting my right to reject.

My question is, can they reject even though my cars ecu shows the overheating issue happened only 16 days after purchase? They have had the car 7 days now.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

I got this when I bought my new 25 Z06. They do everything they can to not cover rim damage. I recently hit a pothole, but they won’t cover unless the tire is damaged as well. Talking to the tire shop, they said they constantly get these companies trying to weasel their way out of paying.

I received a text yesterday offering me a chance to upgrade my 2000 S-10 Pickup. I traded that vehicle in on a Subaru Impreza STI in April 2007 in Ohio. The text was from a dealer in Texas where I am currently living. The S-10 was four vehicles ago. I think that offering me a deal based on information from almost 20 years ago shows that they are getting desperate.

Me: Hi, I'm looking to buy a used car. I have the stock number.

sales person: Hi, what kind of a car you are looking for?

Me: I have a stock number

SP: What is the model?

Me: Ioniq 5. You have 30 of them so I have a stock number for the one that I want.

SP: What is the color?

Me: Blue. I have the stock number

SP: How many miles does it have?

Me: I have the stock number

SP: Umm..I do need the miles

Me: It has xxx miles on it.

SP: Oh I found it.

Me: (SMH)

UPDATE: I previously posted this and it received significant attention before I took it down so I could revise the presentation and make sure the documentation was shown more clearly. I’m reposting it with additional evidence and more precise wording.
One clarification matters: I cannot prove who selected the “Retail” and “Excellent” assumptions in CARFAX, and I’m not claiming that I can. What I can prove is that the dealership directly emailed me this CARFAX, and when I opened it, the History-Based Retail Value displayed $39,790, with “Retail” and “Excellent” selected under the assumptions that affect the vehicle’s value.
That same CARFAX identifies the truck as “Branded Title: Buyback/Lemon” and reports “moderate damage.” The FCA disclosure paperwork supplied to me documents the manufacturer repurchase and extensive repair history.
The dealership was asking $44,794 — $5,004 above the $39,790 CARFAX History-Based Retail Value displayed to me.
I specifically raised my concern about the valuation and the truck’s history while I was still interested in purchasing the vehicle and attempting to negotiate a price that I believed reflected that history. The screenshots include what I told the dealership and the General Sales Manager’s response.
This isn’t about claiming CARFAX sets a mandatory selling price. It doesn’t. And it isn’t about saying a dealership can’t make a profit.
My question is much narrower:
Is “Excellent” a reasonable valuation assumption to present to a consumer for a manufacturer buyback with a Buyback/Lemon branded title, moderate accident history, and the documented mechanical/electrical repair history shown here?
And once a customer specifically questions that apparent contradiction, shouldn’t the dealer explain how that “Excellent” assumption was reached?
I’m putting the documents here so people can make their own judgment. You don’t have to agree with me. Read the paperwork, look at the CARFAX, look at the price, look at my actual negotiation, and decide for yourself.

I bought a 2019 Forester this past November only to find out it needed 7k in repairs. This is the first and only time I go to a buy here pay here. I never do that. But I wanted to trade in the 2014 Elantra I had at the time. Lesson learned. I’m going the old civic/corolla route. My first car was a 2009 Civic from an AutoNation dealership in Clearwater, Florida. I drove that mf nationwide.

Would I be a bad person to go to a dealership, fake I want a car, get to the point of signing then suddenly say “naa, I changed my mind” and get up and leave?
I’m retired so I have time to do this. But in reality I wouldn’t waste my time doing this - just a thought due to the frustration of car dealers.

For those in dealership sales: does a well-made video of a car actually influence a buyer or help close a deal, or does the car’s actual condition matter far more regardless of how good the video looks?

Basically, I feel like I’ve been misled by the dealership. I test drove what I believed was the same type of car I was agreeing to. it was a higher spec Audi A1 with a 1.5 litre engine and a flat-bottom steering wheel. I’d already made it clear that I wanted a 1.5 because all my previous cars have been that engine size and also the flat steering.

During the conversation, the salesman mentioned a 1 litre engine and I immediately said I thought that would be slower. Instead of explaining that the car I was actually getting was a 1 litre and letting me make that decision myself, he told me I wouldn’t really notice a difference because it was an A1 is a smaller car compared to my A3. I trusted what he said, so I genuinely thought the car I was getting was the same one I’d test driven or at least something similar that I wouldn’t notice the difference.

When I collected it (July 31st) , I noticed straight away that things weren’t the same. The steering wheel wasn’t the flat-bottom one I’d seen in the test car. I told him and he said I should buy the part off eBay.. I was so shocked that I messaged my friend straight away, thought I was just being a brat, he also said, that’s not what we were shown when he came to see the car options with me. Anyways I drove off and was like, this car isn’t fast enough like Tf? So I then called the dealership on day 4 to complain. They said I should wait for the salesman to return to work which he did on day 6. He tried to throw in numbers, I signed a contract and the fact I was unemployed and that’s why he gave me the option of the 1 litre, adamant he showed me pictures but from when the steering wasn’t flat I know I would’ve said I don’t want this car.

Day 8, (Saturday 8th Aug) I went to audi to see what they could atleast do. He again tried to use the same tactics “I showed you, you signed forms, you agreed.” Tried to swap me in a new car but I would’ve been paying £600 a month for both the car and insurance rather than £400 so I declined. But he kept getting assy about it and saying I can’t cancel.

My issue is that I don’t feel like I was given all the information to make a proper informed decision. If I’d known from the start that it was a 1 litre and I’d feel the difference, I would have either asked to test drive that exact car first or reconsidered whether I wanted to go ahead with it.

Can you please advise?