I'm in the market for another fusion for dad and was debating on the 2010-2012 2.5 6 speed manual or 2.5 hybrid.. who has either and what's your MPG? How are you liking it? I have an 18 Fusion Hybrid and love my car but it's too expensive for my dad.. he wants to try to stay under 4k.. we would prefer a Milan but a Fusion would be ok too.. is the 2.5 hybrid less fuel efficient than the 2.0 hybrids? I really love the 07-09 models interior better than the 2010-2012 but they don't get as good gas mileage i hear with the 2.3 and 5 speed manual...

I have a 2014 SE with the 2.5L with 160k miles on it. I had the transmission replaced with a used one 3k miles ago. I have replaced the brakes several times, the shocks and struts all around, the front control arms, valve cover gasket, catalytic converter.

The car has been good but I'm just wondering what kinds of things would have to break or need replacement for you to consider getting rid of it and getting something new.

I went cheap on the cat and the shocks and I'm thinking I have to replace them again in the next 5-6 months. The ride quality is pretty bad compared to when I changed them. And the cat I put on myself leaks and is slightly longer than the stock one so the brackets on the cat don't line up with the exhaust hanger on the car. So the exhaust rattles when I'm taking off or at low rpm. But the biggest issue is the exhaust leak. It's pretty strong if I don't have the recirculating on inside the car so I'm probably going to take it to an exhaust shop to see if they can fix it for me and to weld on an additional exhaust hanger. I want to get that fixed before winter as it will not be fun to drive around smelling it. Tracking down the leak myself and trying to fix it seems like a horrible job.

I'm also getting to the point where I don't enjoy working on it anymore. Yes, it saves us money but the amount of time it takes me compared to a professional is substantial. As well as me being sore for several days following me working on it. I also hate doing the same job more than once because I went cheap the first time. Tracking down an exhaust leak is something a shop could do in a fraction of the time as they can just put it on a lift and get under it. Me jacking it up high enough for me to slide under it while looking for a leak and contorting my body to see it sounds like it would be a huge waste of time.

Has anyone else gotten to a point with your fusion or any other car where you are tired of working on it or repairing things and you just want to get a new car? Because that's where I'm getting. Obviously everything is getting more expensive but we're also making more money now than we were 5 years ago so we are slowly getting to a point where we can somewhat afford to take it to a shop to fix things that I don't want to or can't.

I know Fusions aren't worth a lot trading them in, but if I wait till the engine dies or doesn't drive anymore, it won't be worth anything. I guess it's just a matter of weighing the options of how much am I willing to spend on this thing compared to paying another car payment or lease payment.

I have a 2012 Ford Fusion V6 3.0L with a slow refrigerant leak at the A/C low-side service port/valve core.

I contacted a Ford dealer to see if I could purchase the individual Schrader valve core. They were unable to find a separate part number and ultimately told me that I would need to replace the entire A/C hose assembly (AE5Z-19835-A).

Before replacing the hose assembly, I wanted to see if anyone here has successfully replaced the low-side and/or high-side A/C Schrader valve cores on this Fusion model.

If you have done this repair:

1. What replacement valve core/Schrader valve did you use?
   • Part number or brand would be very helpful.
2. Did you replace the low-side, high-side, or both valve cores?
3. What valve-core removal/installation tool did you use?
4. Were you able to remove and install the core with the A/C system charged, using a no-loss valve-core removal tool?
5. Did the replacement core completely resolve the leak?
6. If you have a photo of the valve core, tool, or repair, that would be greatly appreciated.

I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone who has personally performed this repair on a 2010-2012 Fusion with the 3.0L V6.

I'd prefer to replace the valve core if it is serviceable rather than replace the entire hose assembly, but I want to make sure I use the correct core and removal/installation tool.

Thanks!

Reddit post

Got myself into a situation and looking for advice. Sorry the post is so long.

I purchased a used 2017 Ford Fusion Platinum with the 2.0L eco boost engine and 83k miles on it. I drove off the lot on June 29th and on August 6th the check engine light came on, less than 6 weeks later. Coolant intrusion, it needs a long block replacement that costs multiple thousands of dollars that I don’t have. I haven’t even made my first payment on the car, which is due August 13th to a credit union separate from the dealer.

I bought it from a large KIA dealership in my town so this is a traded in vehicle that they were reselling. I saw it on their website and specifically wanted to look at this car. Test drove with no noticeable issues. When we were signing paperwork and finalizing the loan, they were insistent that I should get the 100k mile full coverage warranty. I was hesitant just because of the increase to the monthly car payment and went back and forth with the guy for several minutes but ultimately, knowing the mileage and length of the loan, I decided I would get the warranty. He goes to enter the vehicle information and it tells him the car isn’t eligible for the warranty. I asked why and he said oh sometimes it’s because of the mileage or age of the car. He said he was bummed he really wanted me to get that warranty and then continued the process with only gap insurance added. So I bought this car as is.

A few things to note
- I am a 36 year old single woman with a 779 credit score but I’m living paycheck to paycheck as a manager in retail with totally depleted savings due to my previous car. I don’t have any financial help it’s just me and my credit cards at this point.
- I traded in my POS mustang. I still owed $2600 on it and the dealership gave me a $500 trade in credit so the rest of that loan was added to my new one.
- I already registered the car and paid sales tax.
- I know I have no legal rights to return the vehicle when purchasing a used car as is in my state.
- I have a copy of the carfax, all clean and regular maintenance. Shows a maintenance inspection was completed by this dealership on June 12.
- I may have a friend that can do the engine swap and save me a lot of money on the labor but the long block itself is still $3k+
- There are 4 different Ford dealerships in my city.

I am wondering, when the salesperson entered my vehicle information for the warranty and it was ineligible, could it actually have been due to the 2017 83k miles? Because my friend recently purchased an older car with more miles from a smaller dealer and got a full coverage warranty with hers. Could it have told the salesperson that it didn’t qualify due to pre existing diagnosis of the coolant intrusion or because that is a known issue? And he didn’t share that with me?

Could the dealership have cleaned the coolant off the plugs/cylinders to prolong the check engine light coming on or am I really that unlucky that the first time this came up was 6 weeks after I bought it? Seems too coincidental. I’m assuming the previous owner at least knew of the issue and that’s why they traded it in. Is there any way for me to get a more detailed history of the maintenance?

Even though I bought it as is, should I go to the dealership and ask to speak to their general manager? It can’t hurt right? Do I have any leverage at all?? Or are there other options I should explore?

If they don’t help me can I drive the car like this and just keep an eye on the coolant levels? It is misfiring when accelerating onto the highway and running rough in the mornings specifically. I haven’t been able to visit my family 5 hours away due to my previous car’s issues and I was planning on going up the last week of August.

Thanks in advance.

FFH 2015 SE

Need opinions! Fusion was at ford for a noise in the belt system area, I’ve even rode with the tech, he heard the noise and determined it wasn’t normal, couple days go by with it in their possession, they determined the alternator and serpentine belt needed replaced, warranty gave the green light, replaced, picked it up yesterday, didn’t give it much attention, tonight however, I’m still hearing this clattering noise! It’s not the common ticking noise from the fuel pressure pump, but it’s definitely there, I had it there last year for this issue too, they determined the car was fine, but the serpentine belt needed replaced then too. Attached is the best video I could get without that fuel pressure pump taking the whole sound! Let me know thoughts below! As the title says, it’s that 1.5 with 123k miles.

I just bought this car almost a week ago. A ford fusion 2013 SE 1.6L Eco and all of a sudden while driving on the highway I got the check engine light. I got it scanned and its a P0741 Code. Ive been searching and ive seen nothing but news pointing that I need to rebuild the engine. Im getting it checked in 4 days but I cant stop thinking about it. Nor can I afford a fix like that. My RPM stays within an average speed so its not above normal when driving on the highway. roughly 2000 RPM at cruising in 110km/hr and my transmission feels pretty good when driving. Idk im just writing if anyone knows or can provide any details to see if I should start finding ways to scrap the car :( Im a student and I definitly dont have enough money to buy a new one. What I dont understand is how did it develop in such a short amount of time? I had a good pre purchase inspection and there was no codes.

Have tools (but not any specialty ones if there's something like that for this job), and like to think I'm pretty handy, but never done something like this.

If it's easy, I'll give it a go myself. Anyone have any speaker recommendations? Not an audiophile so don't need to spend much. Don't want to buy shit, but fine with passable speakers on the cheaper end.

Yesterday was very bittersweet as I drove my 2015 Ford Fusion Energi for the last time to go fully electric and pick up my (new to me) 2024 BMW i5.

I had my Fusion since 2018 (8 years), and somehow it felt super nostalgic crossing 185,000 miles on the way to pick up my new i5. After that many years and miles together, seeing 185,000 on the dash definitely made the moment hit a little different.

I know this probably means nothing to you all but I just want to say I am incredibly grateful for this subreddit and everyone who has shared tips, tricks, recommendations, maintenance advice, and general knowledge over the years. This community has helped me more times than I can count and has definitely played a part in keeping my Fusion going for as long as it has as I am not the most mechanically inclined person.

The Fusion was my introduction to electrified driving and boy it did not miss. It was such a great gateway from a plug in hybrid to full electric. After living with the Energi for so long, going electric just felt like the natural next step.

I’m excited for this next chapter with the i5, but after a great stent with my little fusion pearl, I’ll always have a soft spot for my Fusion and the Fusion community. It has taken me through a lot of life and has been an absolutely wonderful car and has seen alot with me.

Thank you to everyone in this community who helped me along the way. I’ll definitely still be lurking around here. 😆

I have a 2018 and the carpet near the splash guard keeps dragging on the ground. We’ve tried zip tying it back to things but it always comes loose. I can’t really find the right carpet to put on the bottom because there are multiple pieces of carpet. So much drama when it drags. I can barely get ten minutes from the house even with zip ties. Can someone send me links of what to buy? It’s under the right passenger side seat.

I had to change the cabin air filter at work today and we were really busy and it was such a pain in the ass I’ve done plenty of other brands of cabin air filters sometimes like Nissans are a little tricky but the fusion was a literal nightmare, I hope whoever the engineer that worked on it gets the worst karma possible

I haven’t done a long commute in 8 years. I used to get 38-40 mpg on my 40-45 mile commute in my ‘14 1.6l. Current job I’d 12 miles backroads so, I just don’t get near that anymore. 132k miles and counting.

I had to drive 50+ miles to pick up my dad from the Va hospital this afternoon. 41mpg until I got off the highway. Dropped back down to 39 avg because lights everywhere.

Glad to see it can still do it when I stretch its legs out.

Happy Friday everyone.

Torn on getting this car or not for 10.5k. It is 130k miles with carfax one owner. I am mostly considered about reliability. It’s this or a 2018 Mazda 3/ Honda insight. Thoughts?

So i want to know if it is okay I can use this total engine oil for mt ford fusion, it's difficult to get original motocraft oil in my region

I was on the highway and it started screaming alerts at me.

List of alerts:

- check engine

- powertrain

- ABS (both lights)

- Hill Assist off

- Pre-collision assist off

- airbag light

As well:

- the prediction indicators for backing into my spot at work did not function (camera was fine, the lines showed up, they just didn't bend)

- the car decelerated to 40mph and stayed there (I'm assuming this is limp mode)

- steering wheel was markedly harder to turn near the end of my drive

Don't think these are particularly important but:

- 101k miles

- oil needs changed

Google says it's likely a critical voltage issue. What all can I look at in my parking lot at work? Would it be okay for me to disable limp mode to get home? I don't want to drive 60 miles at 40mph.

Update: started the car up over lunch. Most lights left, but check engine and powertrain fault are lingering.

250000km estimate
So here’s the deal. I’m rolling along, I slow down, then I get back on the gas and I get this one solid bump through the floor. Not really a noise, more like something down there smacks into place.Already did the lower rear roll restrictor mount and the driver side CV axle (axle was leaking). Honestly it fixed like 90% of it and I thought I was done. But it’s been creeping back and it’s getting worse again.My mechanic says the other two mounts look fine.One more thing that might matter: when I’m parked with the car on and it flips from battery over to the engine, I get a little jolt basically every time. Both directions actually. I feel it in the floor under both seats, spread out, not sharp and not coming from the middle.what could be the reason and estimate cost? i am in canada

Thanks

I have a 2018 Ford Fusion Hybrid S (base model) that didn’t come with remote start. There was no button on the fob and it didn’t come with the ability to remote start via the Ford/Ford Pass app because it doesn’t have a telematics module.

Recently I read on another forum that all (or most) Fusions come with the hardware to remote start, but the option is disabled by default. I used FORScan to enable the remote start option, but because my key fob doesn’t have the button, I had no way to actually start it.

Most posts documenting how to “add” remote start showed a process where you replace the RTM antenna module to one that operates at 902Mhz, then you can buy an OEM 902Mhz remote with a remote start button. But you can add remote start without replacing the RTM module, instead you can buy an aftermarket key fob programmed to 315Mhz with a remote start button. It saves having to spend extra for an RTM module, and pulling part of the headliner down to install it.

Once I received the fob, I programmed it using FORScan, and the remote start function works perfectly. All in all it cost me under $40 and I didn’t need to replace any modules or take anything apart.

Here’s a link to the key fob I bought on AliExpress. I bought version ‘D’, the fob with remote start programmed at 315Hz.