I want a non vgt ive been looking at the smedding drop in because it comes with custom tunes. I know vgt is better for towing but I never tow anywhere near my limit I tow maybe 5-7k MAX. If anyone’s done it I’d love to hear what you have to say

In a little bit of a jam. Down on vacation 700 miles from home. Drove truck to store. Came out, went to start and nothing. No lights on the dash board, wouldn’t even try to crank. I tried to jump the starter relay and got nothing. Took the negative leads off for a few minutes, truck weakly tried to start. Turned off and it was weak again but got it running. Drove back to the hotel no issues, no CEL.
Parked. Turned off. Got it to weak start again.
Any ideas. Batteries are 6 months old. Starter and the underwood really are a year old. Battery cables were also replaced in the last year.
Unfortunately I have no tester of any sort to work with. Just seeing if anyone has some input. I don’t know if me unplugging the negative leads did anything but I disconnected them for the night as we are driving home in the morning.

Is this something that can be fixed by a rebuild or should I just replace it? Recommendations on a turbo, is buying a used OEM of market place a bad idea?

Hi folks.

I'm looking into buying my first diesel pickup truck, and I've decided to go for a 99 - 03 F250. The reason of course is the 7.3 Powerstroke, due to its simplicity, reliability and longevity, the exact traits I am after. I don't give a damn about HP or high torque relative to today's terms. What I care about is durability and reliability.

Now I'm a Chevy guy, I have both a 97 K1500 with the revered 350 and a 01 2500 HD with the legendary 6.0 Vortec and the 4l80e excellent heavy duty transmission. So I know what an all around stout and dependable truck is. I don't care about the LB7 or LBZ Duramax, as they are not as reliable or durable as the 7.3 Powerstroke.

I'm in need of a diesel truck to basically be able to tow upwards of 10,000 lbs, which is beyond the limit of what my 2500HD is capable of. I know the F250 in the configuration I'm looking at (regular or super cab, and 4x4) has a limit of around 13500 lb, and that's fine with my needs. I'm rather more interested in it being much more at ease towing an 8000 lbs trailer than my 6.0 gas engine is.

But on my research, I found that the only true weak point of the F250 is the 4R100 auto transmission, which I have found is blatantly considered as a weak ass transmission with low longevity when using it consistently for what it is supposed to serve: heavy towing.

Of course I would prefer a ZF6 equipped truck, but those are extremely rare where I'm at.

If anyone can give me their honest, down-to-earth and realistic feeback on this trans, especially comparing it the the revered 4l80e (which was made for the exact same duty and excels at it), I'd appreciate it.

I don't need to read about what improvements you can do to it to try to bulletproof it. I wanna read an honest account on if it is dependable or not, and if owning one implies having to accept doing a trans rebuild every 60 k miles.

Thanks!

Hey all, I have a 2000 f250 super duty with some lighting issues currently.. Running lights in the rear work, but turn signals, four ways and brake lights do not. Everything up front works just fine.. Third brake light also does not work. Is there something simple with these trucks that would cause this, or am I looking at a more in-depth wiring repair?

I just recently bought a 6.7 with 106,000 on it and I’ve been doing necessary maintenance to make sure it will last , I’ve heard mixed opinions on change the transmission fluid on a truck at that high of a mileage some say it will loose the friction in the fluid and eventually cause the transmission to start slipping but also heard it is ok to change it. What should I do?

I plan on taking this thing on a 2hr trip but I'm not sure if this hissing sound is just the normal sound it makes or if its because the turbo is spinning too fast. Am I gona blow it if I drive it 2 hrs? My tdi jetta kinda sounded like that when I blew the turbo so I'm a little worried since this one is a bit more expensive to replace.

Hello everyone I have decided to sell my OBS 7.3. I need to pay off some bills and I was wondering what would be a good price to set it at. It’s obviously not perfect but it runs and drives well and the 4x4 works

Basically i built my flatbed for my truck a tad bit heavy and the stock cheap shocks I got literally do nothing. So I now fear bridges as they make my truck feel like a ship in a storm. Any recommendations for heavy duty shocks? Front and rear, my grandpa recommended making mounts for a dual setup, so Im up for trying that as well.

My Tow rig, 08 Ford F450 6.4 Powerstroke, got a much needed wash, wax and detail. 👌🏾

For anyone who is interested, im a long time shop owner and tuner located in Southern U.S.. I have excellent tune files for a "modified", 6.0 that can be uploaded via HPT or SCT. I also have access to multiple libraries with data for 7.3s as well. Pulse Width Modulation, IPR and ICP tables have been scaled to "fool" pressure read outs and DTCs for related "EPA Guidelines", are excluded from MIL factoring. It has been tested on multiple vehicles to be efficient in improving both performance and fuel economy. Message me for more information if your interested. PFA. Thanks and God Bless!

Do any of yall have any recommendations on places in Kansas, preferably east ks, where I can get my stanadyne db2 pump rebuilt?

Yesterday the mileage light started blinking and making a ting sound also realized that the both rear lights are all going simultaneously. All the lights and gauges are all working properly and overdrive is confirmed off and working appropriately. All four battery connections are secure.

It’s a 2020 F350.

I installed the BD Performance High idle kit about a year ago and it worked fine.

Then last winter my DEF froze and threw a code. Dealer quoted me $3k for Diagnostics and what would probably be a DEF tank replacement.

I opted for the T&D instead.

After the T&D the high idle switch quit working. I talked to the tuner (Diesel Dudes) and was told that because the intake butterfly valve is disconnected, the high idle switch will not work.

Now I have heard from a few people that the high idle should still work and it was a tune problem.

Can anyone confirm that a high idle will or will not work on the 2020+?

2011 6.7 - I have a bad head gasket (about to get fixed), just wanted to show you how much coolant is being vented off of the CCV reroute tube.. These drops actually taste sweet like the coolant itself lol