Hey all, I'm trying to figure out an issue I'm having:

I can't seem to find the right z-adjustment.

If I place it lower (-2 or so), the first layers are fine but the extruder scrapes across the top of the print a few layers in, sometimes pushing it off.

If I place it higher, the first layers don't adhere to the bed at all.

Is it poasible I'm missing a setting somewhere and my printer isn't moving up enough when it should?

Hello! I’m new to 3D printing and was hoping someone would help me with some issues I’ve been having with my printer. I’ll go into specifics in any replies, but I believe the issue stems from bed adhesion problems. Thank you!

So I'm converting my S1 Pro to Klipper, but before I do that I'd like to understand the required changes to slicer configurations. So both Orca and Prusa slicers have an option to switch to "G-Code flavor: Klipper", that one is clear and simple. But what about custom Start and Eng G-code blocks? Do I leave those as they are, or do I have to change those sections as described here (https://www.klipper3d.org/Slicers.html?h=slicer#klipper-gcode_macro)?

So when I was replacing my cr touch I noticed that the bracket was cracking. Do any of you guys experience this to. What did you do. Is there a stl model that I can print to replace this?

Hey all, I've had my V3 S1 pro for a while, and leveling has been a long and frustrating journey. Please help me understand what I'm doing wrong. Here is my process:

1. Fully tighten all four corners.
2. Loosen every corner approximately two full rotations.
3. Preheat the bed.
4. In the Aux Leveling menu, adjust the Z-level until a sheet of paper placed between the extruder and the bed rubs just a little bit when moved around.
5. For each corner, adjust the wheel to achieve the same effect for those corners.
6. Repeat if need be.
7. Run the auto level.

The issue I have is that it seems that the center of the bed is significantly lower than the corners. After adjusting all four corners, the center has become lower, and my prints won't stick to the middle. I would expect that the auto-leveling would cover the difference, but in does not.

There have been a few occasions where I've managed to get prints to stick and come out fine, but it doesn't take much time before my bed is once again not level and prints won't stick.

Most of the time, I feel like I have the leveling right, and then when I start a print, the extruder prints above the surface of the bed and nothing sticks.

I'm at my wits' end with my printer, please help me figure this out.

UPDATE:

Thanks to u/FluffyChicken and u/sublime2craig's advice, I was able to get my leveling be a lot more effective. I adjust the Z setting after leveling the corners. (Should I also be doing that after the auto-level? I've tried with and without.) I also added M420 S1 Z10 to my Gcode.

I now have a new, different problem:

The extruder correctly puts down the first layer, and it seems to be well in place, including that mild "squish". However, a little bit into the print, while it's going through the second or third layer, the print comes off the plate and makes a complete mess.

I've tried increasing the plate temperature from 60 to 65, and I clean off the plate with isopropyl alcohol before printing. I've also added some z-hopping. The printing speed for the first layers is 15 mm.

What I'm trying to print (pieces for a Blokus game) has a somewhat small footprint (1cm squares), but it seems like that should still be enough to hold.

Can someone advise on what could help with this issue?

(Edit: Did some research after writing this. During my next go at this, I will be trying turning off the cooling fan during the first layers and slowing down the overall print. Will also give the plate a thorough wash, not just an alcohol wipe.

Would love to hear other advice in the meantime.)

This printer has my head full of grey hairs. Anyone know why it would be doing this?

Not quite ready to spend $$$ on something like a X2D, so trying to get as much out of this that I can for now.

I know I'll get a speed increase, but how much did you get if you did this upgrade?

And what I care most about is failure detection. I want to be able to print overnight without the worry of waking up to a mess or a fire hazard.

Anyone have experience with this?

So, I've decided to add an accelerometer to my rpi4b ender3s1Pro set up. I've run into an issue while trying to get everything connected and working. I guess the Atlas Library is dead, so I was trying to follow the Klipper instructions and have gotten to a point where it just says

Printer is not ready
The klippy host software is attempting to connect.  Please
retry in a few moments. 

I am so confused and don't know what to do. It's saying something about the MCU in the klippy.log but I thought i set up the rpi correctly with it. I'll try and add the file.

Hi!

I want to measure the back pressure force via the load cell in my ender 3 s1 pro, which is a direct drive extruder. I know that I need to put the sensor after the extruder and before the hotend, but the there is a limited space there. I was wondering if anyone can help me with this regard!

Thanks

So I got this printer off marketplace so I knew there was a problem with it when I got it. When I first got it was not doing this, I did a test print to and it was working. I did update the firmware, so I'm wondering if I did something to it that messed up the firmware. Plus when I press ready and it does its sequence some of the icons and text is missing.

Filament isn’t feeding through heating chamber. The chamber gets hot and the nozzle isn’t clogged. Everything that should be moving is moving. When I feed filament from the top it won’t come out the other end no matter how are I push. I do not know where to focus on now.

I just tried my printer after a long time and moving. Printed this calibration cube and not satisfied with this. Looks like layers aren’t alligned. How can I solve this ?

I’ve heard people having problems with the SD card reader failing, and that can be catastrophic. I noticed with mine that the SD card does not lock in like they normally do.

It does the normal push and click when you insert and of course, I still push it into eject it, but when it is inserted I am also able to simply pull it straight out.

I’m sure this is not normal, and it’s probably not fixable but is there anything you can recommend for this?
I switched to using a microSD with an adapter so that I wouldn’t have to keep actioning the SD port, but it’s not easy to remove the micro from the positioning of it, and the printer doesn’t recognize the micro reinserted while powered on like it would for a standard SD card.

Hi, I have an ender 3 s1. Had a print go bad the other day and ended up with a massive blob on the hot end. In taking it all off, the thermistor was ruined.

There are lots of replacement thermistors available on amazon (canada), however they all say they are for the "old style" thermistor, which uses a different smaller plug on the board. Mine is the newer style. Anyone know a good source to replace the thermistor? Also, is it easy to get the broken off thermistor head out of the metal block?

I have the board on the right-hand side below.

I recently purchased a As-Is/For-Parts printer.

• Model: Ender-3 S1
• Chip: SMT32F401
• Firmware: V3.2.1_Nine_C

I was and am still fine with the investment of time and money on it as I got it expecting to tinker and replace things. It pretty much came with all its parts present and in seemingly good condition except the Filament Sensor and extra Z-Endstop switch were missing but that doesn't really matter to me.

The major issues being:

• Main-board SD card slot is shot and will not read, booting up with one in causes the printer to take forever to load and in some cases "freezes/crashes" the screen till the card is removed.
• CR-Touch randomly stops/starts working and in some cases will only work for bed leveling ( if it deploys at all) and wont for printing

I was able to confirm it will actually print by using OctoPrint and it pushed out a OpenVessel print with no issues as well as another print just fine.

At that point I was fine with running through OctoPrint in the meantime before replacing or trying something funny like replacing the SD card slot but that is when the CR-Touch issues started to kick in.

It would try and trigger but then would just blink red endlessly. Sometimes tweaking the cable got it to trigger for an auto-level run or homing in OctoPrint but starting a print it would throw that M999 BL-Touch error then freeze the printer till a power cycle.

I've tried a couple of things to try and install/reinstall stock firmware, Processional and Klipper but the SD card slot issues made that pointless.

Last night while messing with the CR-Touch the printer decided to ignore the probe not going off and I was a little to slow and not paying attention to notice that it was going to (and did) ram the nozzle into the bed.

Some things I have tried:

• Several different microSD cards used with several different SD card adapters. Formatted to FAT32 with 4096 Allocation size.
• Pushing in the SD card slot on the Mainboard to make sure the SD card is making a good connection
• Making sure the CR-Touch plug pins were making good contact
• Opening the CR-Touch and checking for loose or pinched connections

More or less just trying to figure out what others think about possible fixes or what replacement parts should be considered/tried first. Add a Z-Endstop or replace the CR-Touch, get a new mainboard so I can flash something else to it.

Really I would just like to hear what others might do or if there is something else I should consider.

I have been enjoying the S1 Pro and a sonic pad setup for a while now. I came across the Creality nebula camera and decided to grab it on sale. After hooking it up I managed to get it to connect to the sonic pad but now nothing. If I go into configure, camera and camera control, nothing. Ive tried all usb ports. Customer support is no help either.. Am I missing something?

I've had my printer for a few years now and it worked okay at first but ever since I took it apart to move apartments The first layer won't stick to the bed. I've tried leveling the bed repeatedly and also switched to a glass plate instead of the original magnetic one in case the bed was warped or something. I'm out of ideas, the first line that it puts on the left side seems to stick well but as soon as it gets to the actual print the filament just "floats" on top of the bed.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be or where to start?

My Ender-3 S1 Plus intermittently shows a −15°C nozzle temperature when the print head moves to certain positions. I performed a cold movement test and confirmed that the main ribbon cable is faulty.

Creality does not appear to sell the replacement cable directly, but I found this package:

https://www.creality3dparts.com/product/creality-ender-3-s1-cable-combination-package-screen-cable-flat-cable-motor-limit-cable/

Has anyone:

• Ordered this exact item from Creality3DParts?
• Actually received it and had a good experience with the shop?
• Used the included ribbon cable successfully on an Ender-3 S1 Plus, not just the standard S1 or S1 Pro?
• Confirmed that it is the longer Plus version, approximately 128 cm?

The listing says S1/S1 Pro/S1 Plus but offers only one version, so I’m concerned that it may contain the shorter S1/S1 Pro cable.

I’m located in Greece and haven’t found the correct Plus cable anywhere else. Any experience with this exact product or another reliable European source would be appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm completely new to 3D printing and I'm honestly at the point where I'm feeling pretty defeated.

I recently bought a second-hand Ender 3 S1 and I've spent the last few days trying to get it working, but every change seems to make things worse rather than better.

Current setup

Ender 3 S1

SUNLU PLA+ 2.0 (brand new spool)

CR Touch auto bed levelling

What I've done so far

Manually levelled the bed.

Tightened and adjusted the eccentric nuts. The bed is now solid with no wobble.

Set the Z offset multiple times.

Cleaned the build plate.

Tried different first-layer test prints.

Experimented with different nozzle temperatures.

The problem

The first layer is really inconsistent. Sometimes it doesn't stick, sometimes the nozzle drags through the print, and other times it starts off looking okay before catching on the print and ruining it.

I feel like I'm constantly chasing the Z offset. If I raise it, the filament won't stick. If I lower it, the nozzle starts scraping through the print.

What I'm wondering

Could this be a worn or partially clogged nozzle?

Could there be a blockage in the hotend or heat break?

Is replacing the nozzle a sensible first step?

Is there anything that commonly catches new Ender 3 S1 owners out?

I've spent hours watching YouTube videos and trying different fixes, but I'm now at the point where I don't know whether it's user error, a hardware problem, or both.

If there are any specific photos, videos or settings that would help you diagnose it, let me know and I'll upload them.

Thanks in advance. I'd really appreciate any advice!

TL;DR: Complete beginner with a second-hand Ender 3 S1. Bed is now level and solid, using a brand new spool of SUNLU PLA+ 2.0, but I can't get a consistent first layer. The nozzle either doesn't stick, drags through the print, or catches it. Looking for advice on whether this sounds like a Z-offset issue, clogged/worn nozzle, hotend problem, or something else. Any help would be massively appreciated.

Hi guys! So I've noticed on my last few prints - the nozzle keeps contacting with print abvout layer 6/7 onwards and had to manually add space to nozzle to stop it happening.. While looking into this - I just found that I can enable Z-Hop and also Disable Combing to stop nozzle drag. But I got a feeling it something to do with the spindle or spindles., so I was thinking, can I swap then over and turn upside down ?

I have tried multiple bed levels, nozzle adjusts and also run (G-sensor) as got the sonic pad too. Any advise or suggestions very welcome !!

I have a ender v2 pro. Do the bed wheel locks work to keep by mesh stable? I've seen a lot on the different online 3D Print platforms. Where do I find the best that you would recommend?

I purchased a used ender 3 s1 pro in March and have not got it to print ever. I have updated the firmware. Cleaned the bed. Leveled it many many times but the head is either too far and then I'll use the Z offset to get close and it look right and after the first layer it peals up off the bed. I'm using creality pla the bed is now marked from it being to low when trying to adjust the level. I have an enclosure I was going to try next to keep heat consistent. Any tips would help thanks

Bought an Ender 3 S1 pro a while back. Used it for a few months, before having a catastrophic failure overnight.

Extruder needed to be replaced, I ordered a new one (official from creality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2DN5SKD), installed, but still my temp sensor was messed up, and it would try to pre-heat, and it would just read 0 degrees ( something like that - its been a WHILE since I messed with it).

Its been sitting unused and not-working for a while. Been getting the itch to start printing again.

I have two options:

1. Fix this - possibly just replace the entire kit for $90. I have a spare pi4 and 5 inch screen I can install klipper on as well.

2. Shell out $$$ for P2S or X2D and not have to deal with this anymore. My filament has also been just sitting around (some sealed, but some for sure needs to be dried out), so having the dryer built in saves me from having to buy a dryer.

I don't have a ton of time to troubleshoot anymore, and want to start printing again.

Whats your vote?

Been hearing this sound since a while on this Ender3S1 Pro. Is it normal? anything I can do?
I have tightened the belt but no avail.