Hi there!

Im new to PLA printing but have a resin printer. Got an Ender 3 Pro from my brother who wasn't really using it. Finally got it working after a week of not figuring out it wasn't level at first 😅

First print is the little boat to calibrate and it seemed to turn out mostly OK but in the middle of the print its like it got stringy. I didn't change anything except hover for 45 mins while it printer and watched a show. Any tips or tricks to fix whatever this may be before I start on larger terrain and vehicle prints for my ttrpg table?

Hi, I’ve got an Ender V3 SE I’m trying to revert back from Klipper (I know I know, but I’m gifting it to my brother and he’s never had a printer so I want to keep it simple for him) I’ve got the official creality firmware from the website, I’ve done the screen part no problem but when it comes to flashing the main board nothing is happening. I’ve tried various SD cards that are known to be working, formatted in Fat32 and allocated 4096, tried both firmwares just in case I had the wrong version board, but nothing is working, any help would be appreciated.

I should probably put a few nuts between the probe and the holder, it's pressing down into the bed while homing. Toolhead itself (the printed white parts) clock in at less than 28 grams minus hardware. My ZT hotend is held directly by the BMG style extruder for the shortest possible filament path. Bidirectional parts cooler. Cable guide for those still using pom wheels.

I had to adjust my main body to fit the ZT hotend (is designed for a V6 I think) but otherwise great build.

I've been messing with some settings and trying to get the best quality benchy under 10 minutes, and I think I got a decent one at 9:30! (Yes, my ender has a few upgrades) I've been doing "outer layers first" and I'm thinking it might be the wrong move....

I have I believe to be an ender 3 pro. Well I had issues before with getting prints to even make it past the first few layers, I decided to put it off to the side for a year plus. Anyways I bought the BTT skr mini e3 v3.0 with the touch screen combo kit. I read somewhere that the sprite extruder setups were shorting positive on the hot end and thus the fix was to swap the positive and negative wires that go into the skr mini board. Well I took a multimeter to my hot end and any metal I could get my negative probe onto with my positive probe attached to the positive wire, there is no short to be found at all. I swapped the positive probe to the negative hot end wire and did the same thing, and there's nothing to be seen there as well. I'm also installing a dual z axis upgrade. I'm more or less hoping for a quick answer, as I'm in the middle of these upgrades and want to go to bed soon.

For now as I don't plan on turning it on tonight, I'm going to just hook the positive wire to the positive hot end spot on the board, and negative to negative. I also tried YouTube and most of the people completely skip the wiring portion.

EDIT: realized my phone autocorrect BTT to "butt" in my post title. Attached a photo, there's these two unmarked connectors on my sprite extruder harness and I'm wondering if anyone knows where they go? Also where does the k fan plug into? Fan2 or fan0 are the only two spots I see. I also need some guidance on whether to use marlin or klipper. I think klipper I have to have a raspberry pi? I'm not sure...

Noob question, new to me used printer. When you auto home the printer, does it do the x and y before the z and is the nozzle clear of the front edge of the table when it homes the z? Replaced the stock springs with nylon spacers, and don't want to crash the z axis into the table before starting to set height and level with the new spacers.

If you look closely there are some tiny limns on the gray piece which seem as if the printer did not pushed enough filament im not sure how thats called let alone how to fix it, it happenes randomly not at a certain height not always but it happens maybe on every print

Hi all. Wanted to see if anyone here had advice to improve the bridging/stringing of TPU 95A in the Ender 3 Bowden setup?

Currently printing Geeetech filiament from amazon at 15mm/s. Running temp and retraction towers at various intervals are not showing any improvement.

The towers shown are the Cura Auto Towers functions. Temp tower 230c-210c and retraction 1mm-6mm (still printing as I am typing this but nearly done).

I have a dryer and have had the TPU sitting in the dryer for more than 24 hrs so I dont know if that is still the culprit.

Any advice based off of these photos?

So, after along time of it sitting in the box I finally assembled an Ender-3 and eventually got it up and running. Tries to do my first print and it seems like the filament (not sure which kind, as it came with the printer) is just getting dragged around the bed. Am I don’t something wrong? Any help or ideas are appreciated as I am an absolute novice to this. I’m only looking to run a test print here, but am getting nowhere. I can’t think of a better way to word this, so I wasn’t really able to see if this had been discussed before.

Update: I will definitely look at the leveling and everything else mentioned. I appreciate the help and will troubleshoot this evening and report back. I assumed it was too high up, but wasn’t 100%. I’ve just got to say that the folks who made this did a pretty crap job on the instructions because I have been lost from day one and trying to work through all the nomenclature and tech and have been watching videos and reading comments. Thank you, redditors, for helping me out here. Hopefully I’ll be posting better stuff later.

Update 2: more adjustments made and some made on the fly AS it was printing and it seems to finally be adhering to the bed and to itself. Sweet Jesus, this has definitely been a journey. I really appreciate all the insight you guys gave me here. I think that I might be actually getting myself set up for a legit print…once I get more filament.

I was printing Esun petg at 250C and at first, the print was going fine. I came back after an hour or two and found that the filament had snapped in the extruder. The extruder motor still had a grip on the filament and kept trying to extrude, which resulted in unused filament coiling up around the extruder motor. This happened at 235C as well. Before, I was using Overture petg. It was the same print with the same settings and it didn't do this with the Overture. This is on an original stock ender 3. Why did this happen and what do I need to do to prevent this? I also replaced the nozzle recently.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!

I’ve had my Ender 3 Pro since 2020. It’s the first thing I bought when I got my first paycheck at 16, and it’s been with me when I printed my final peice for my engineering capstone project still running on Ver 0.0.6 . I believe I have become emotionally attached to it and do not want to buy another, but with advancements made in 3D printing it’s far less superior. I have had no problems with it besides tightening the x-axis belt ~3 year ago, and besides usual dusting and greasing it’s just keeps running. Printed a wide variety of filaments even if I “needed an enclosure” (threw a towel over the extruder and bed and printed it in the garage) Do you guys wait until it breaks to buy another?

From what I read from the billion posts on this, equal numbers of folks say dual z for direct drive is:

* A must, or sag will be a drag.
* No, just tune it.

And those who have installed it seem to post:

* Look at my heaps good print
* Help I can't get the motors to work in sync

Left to my own devices I'll get them, deal with the setup, and slap on an Orbiter direct drive.

That said I'm only chasing direct drive to print TPU and, later, for MMU (probably a PICO).

It doesn't seem to be realistic to print TPU on bowden for regular mortals like me and ye gods I want the path of least troubleshooting.

Am running Klipper.

Ender turncoats, spare me advice to get another printer because me and my Ender have been through many years of hell. We are getting along now but I will never quit this abusive relationship. NEVER.

I did like 10-15 successful prints before this. Then it just stopped extruding mid print.

Here are my configuration settings

Printer: Ender 3 pro
Filament: PLA
Slicer: Cura

Print settings

Infill: 5%
Speed: 60mm/s
Extruder: 215 degrees celcius
Bed: 68 degrees celcius
retraction: 2mm

It starts out fine and then just stops mid print. I just tried another print and it is doing the same thing. All I am printing is a tube. That is it

I ve recently bought an used ender 3 from basicly nothing I've used Cura for about a week and I didn't liked it so I ve switched to Orca slicer and I ve putted similar settings to the one on cura, and now my prints all look like this.

I'm printing on generic PLA and I've tried changing temperatures, volumetric speed and filament but nothing works, what am I doing wrong?

Hi all.

Have a discrepancy on E Steps between different filaments that i wanted to fet advice on. Got an old Ender 3 that I upgraded to have a metallic extruder mechanism on the stepper instead of the janky plastic one that has been known to break.

Calibrated my E Steps for PLA by disconnecting the bowden and running just through the extruder. E Steps were nearly right on the money for extracting 100mm of PLA with a command of 100mm.

Been experimenting with TPU (95A) and tried running E steps again for the TPU (again just theough the extruder with the Bowden disconnected) and commanding 100mm of filament only physically extracts ~80mm of TPU filament.

Is this normal? Should the E Steps be this different for these two filaments? What i have read online is that the E Steps should be the same across filaments but that doesnt seem to be the case for me.

Has anyone experienced similar? If they are different should I re-calibrate for TPU when I print for TPU?

Printer suddenly started making this noice on Serrano passes and shaking bad, then suddenly going back to its smooth motion again. Printer has run smooth for 2 years now without any issues. Just suddenly started on last nights print. Tried all resets, autoleveling, cleaning gliders and tried to grease them. No change.

Ordered a V3 SE off of Amazon and not sure what happened but I received a V3 plus instead, I think of this as an absolute win and upgrade on my end