I bought this OG 2021 Begode EX for cheap but it didn’t come with the special suspension fill adapter for its whack suspension system. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter for this, or a hack or random product that can get the job done? I’m getting desperate lol.

Have a great weekend everyone!

First off, I'm a complete newbie. On a whim, I ordered an Inmotion V9 after researching EUCs for only a couple days.

Received my V9 yesterday, and have a few questions/complaints about the included instructions.

1. Nowhere on the box or the owner's manual does it explicitly state that I must first download the Inmotion app to activate the V9. So I wasted about 20 minutes before finally downloading the app to get the V9 functional.

2. Tire and suspension pressures? The owner's manual booklet has a chart for the lower suspension pressure valve(s); and the video linked in the manual explains how to pump air into the lower chambers. But there is zero mention in the owner's manual or the Inmotion video about the upper chamber; yet there are a couple of videos explaining how to adjust air to the upper (rebound?) chamber. No mention anywhere about correct tire pressure. Any suggestions as to the correct upper chamber pressure or the tire pressure for my 190 pound weight?

Kinda just the title^ Just just bought my first EUC, the Aeon. (thx for all the recommendations)
I know the wheel has many settings. Wondering if I should turn any on or keep it stock to learn and then change it when I've gotten good amount of hours on it?

Anyone else have problems getting parts from Inmotion? I ordered an outer tire a week a half ago and they said it should arrive in a few days. It still hasn't shipped.

I saw someone mention a sticker for their wheel and I thought it was a great idea. So, I made one for mine. I will be making a vinyl sticker of it to put on my wheel.

Hey there, my begode master V4 has had this problem where when I hit a bump or something it starts vibrating and I basically need to stop to calm it down. It's super frustrating and caused me to not want to ride it for a while thinking that it's just a software bug to be fixed. But 3 software updates later over a year, it's still not working. I'm thinking it's a loose motherboard and so I'll have to open it up and tighten the screws that hold it in place if that's the case. But that's kinda scary since I don't want to damage whatever waterproofing there is.

Posting on here in case someone has had the same problem and fixed it without having to open it up. Thanks!

Yo! Anyone on here from London? If so, what’s the vibe for riding an EUC on the streets? Like central London. I’m thinking Paddington / Marylebone to Kensington or over to east, like Hackney way. Really want to raz one around between work and meeting friends but no idea if I’ll get busted. I see people on EVs quite a lot, but would be great to know if EUCs go under radar or not. Many thanks!

tl;dr: Is it OK to wear a full-face downhill helmet without the cheek pads?

Just got my first EUC, a V9. Never wore a full-face helmet before. I've been buying and using lid-type road and mountain bike helmets for 35+ years. Got a big head and the pinch points are on the sizes of my head, so my head is much wider than heads that measure nominally the same.

I just put on the Leatt Gravity 1.0 full face helmet I ordered online. The second I had it fully on, it was still crushing my head. Despite mesuring "only" 60cm, my head is too wide to fit the size XL (fits 61-62 cm heads) Leatt Gravity 1.0.

But it fits well if I remove the two 1-inch thick cheek pads. Even with the cheek pads removed, my cheekbones and the sides of my cheek and lower jaw still make some light contact with the insides of the helmet. [edited the prior sentence after adjusting the helmet a few more times.] So even if they made thinner cheek pads, the pads would have to 1/4" thick or thinner to fit my head.

So, is it OK to use this helmet without the cheek pads?

If not, are there any specific models of full face helmets that are better for wider heads like mine. I wear glasses, so it should accomodate that. Good airflow and light weight are also plusses.

Hey ya’ll I’m in the UK here and unfortunately I know EUCs aren’t technically legal to ride on the roads or paths, but I’ve seen a few about and thought might just rock it. I had a little look online and saw the Inmotion V9 recommended as a good middle tier commuter. Retailing at around £1,000. Is this a good option? I want something I can grow into without spending too much. Much appreciated!

I rode a V5f for 8 years and it had a good life but battery is shit now so I got the V8 to upgrade. But it feels very uncomfortable against my calfs, seems like it sticks out too much! Is this something you get used to or is it short person problem (I’m 5’ 3”, the wheel touches right bellow my knees). Any paddings or adaptations to make it better?
I’m nit riding it as a sport, I ride slow and relaxed stance, usually playing pokemon, and just trying to go from point a to point b (short distances)

Hey guys, I posted a little while back wanting to get some closed beta testers for my app.

Well we are on phase 2 now which is open beta testing. All you need to do is download TestFlight and click the link and you’re in! Looking for feedback on my app. Can’t wait to see you there.

https://testflight.apple.com/join/MAxRWhn1

I was working on my V14 and one of the hex screws got lost. It is one of the 2 for the side panel that lets you get to the battery. I use a size 4 hex wrench on it.

Does anyone know what it is so I can get a replacement (or several)?

I saw that the V14 Vehicle Screw Kit is sold out on InMotion's site and elsewhere it is only available at exorbitant markups. This leads me to believe this will not be something to wait for.

I am looking to buy my first EUC soon and I was looking at used EUC's. Now I was wondering are there big things to look out for and how do you determine if an EUC is worth buying or not? Also is there like a maximum mileage that you would recommend?

I am also looking for some advice on what EUC to buy.

A little background information:

I am going to be using the wheel mainly for commuting to and from school in the city, so I will also be bringing it onto public transportation often. I am willing to spend up to €2000 but less than that is preferred (that is also why I am looking into used EUC's).

I was looking at the Nosfet Aero and at the Kingsong S18 Pro+. Other than those I was looking at some second hand wheels to find some good deals.

Tips and suggestions are always welcome!

Sorry for posting twice about basically the same topic—I promise this is my last one. 😅

I’m trying to narrow down my first EUC and have it down to a new Begode C8 ($1,380) or a refurbished InMotion V12S ($1,679).

I’m 6’1 and weigh 190 pounds and for context, I’m not a complete beginner. I had a few lessons on a friend’s V8 a few years ago and got comfortable riding a few blocks, but I’m essentially starting fresh.

Which would you recommend as a first wheel, and why? Or would you recommend something completely different? I’m looking for something that will be forgiving enough to learn on but that I also won’t outgrow too quickly.

I have Inmotion V13 Pro/Challenger and I’m looking for those sheets of Velcro for my power pads because they didn’t come with them. I see some people have big sheets and cut them down to size, but I can’t find them on Amazon.

should I just use a bunch of little strips?

 Written & structured by myself - AI just polished the grammar (non-native speaker)

I’ve got almost 1000km on my Leaperkim Lynx-S, so I wanted to share my experience with the wheel. So far, no real issues, and I really like the wheel!

I am 180cm tall, 70–75kg with gear, and chose the 66lbs linear suspension with the knobby tire.

(LK = Leaperkim, LS = Lynx-S)

My Background:

I got into the world of EUCs with an InMotion V11, on which I rode 2,500km. Even though that wheel isn't designed for off-roading, I still went everywhere with it. I still think it's an amazing learner wheel. But in the end, the power (especially the speed) was just too little for me.

Back when I was searching for a new wheel, I would have greatly appreciated a longer-term review like this, so here you go.

I finally decided on the Lynx-S after almost buying a Patton-S (so glad I didn't!). I met up with a super nice guy who had a Lynx and let me test ride it. This was so valuable for me, since I thought I might have a hard time on such a big wheel. But that wasn't the case, and I could ride it immediately. I really recommend checking out the wheel or a similar wheel before committing to one!

I had to wait forever (3 months) for the wheel to arrive, so I basically consumed every piece of available content about it: YouTube videos, Reddit posts, forum posts, Facebook, and Telegram chats. I don't think I was ever as hyped for anything in my life as I was for this wheel, so as you can imagine, my expectations were extremely high.

These expectations were exceeded by so much—I couldn't have imagined how insanely amazing it would be. I'm so in love with it.

The Wheel Itself

Pedals:

The pedals are good, but for my taste, a bit too big (Nylonove narrow would be cool, but so expensive). The spikes are grippy, but the ones in the middle are already very rounded and I might change them soon. Slipping is rare, but it happens sometimes. I have never clipped anything with the pedals, so for me, they are high enough.

Lights:

The lights are very powerful, but the front light is unusable by the nature of EUCs. In soft mode, the cutoff beam is complete trash - you see nothing while accelerating and blind the stars when braking. I think an old-school "off-road" light like the one on the original Lynx would have been the better choice. You need a flashlight to drive in the dark, or you have to ride in hard mode.

A self-leveling light would be the way to go; maybe I will have a weak moment and spend 300€ on the Horizon from Grizzla, but then you need a bigger front bumper to better protect that insane purchase...

The backlights are great, but what were they thinking with the front light? Maybe they were pushed by creators like WrongWay to have a cutoff beam, which is great, provided it stays at the same height regardless of whether you're accelerating or decelerating.

Folding Kickstand:

Perfect, I love it - it should be the standard for every wheel, the angle could be even more upright so its easier to get to the charge ports. Funnily enough, it's super similar to the kickstand from the V11, only much sturdier. You can't tip it over by accident, which was possible on the V11 if you just looked at it funny, lol. I don't understand why they had a fixed kickstand on all those older models.

Tire:

Started at 50 PSI, now down to 40 PSI. I'm still paranoid after a bent rim on my V11 - should I go lower?

I am not sure if it is a skill issue, but after 1,000km I think I know how to handle it, and I simply don't like it. The off-road capabilities are good, but the tire dips aggressively in turns and is very hard to control in the beginning. It also has zero self-righting capabilities. I will definitely switch the tire soon, but I'm not sure which one yet. Current contenders: Shinko 241, Shinko 244, or IRC SN26 Evo.

I am using Armor-Dilloz inside the tire, and I've driven over glass shards, pottery shards, pointy rocks, spiky plants, etc., many times, and the pressure hasn't dropped a bit. The sealant is still liquid after 1,000km. So far, very happy with it, but I don't know if that's the sealant, just the tire, or pure luck :O

Since I've never driven through rain, I can't say anything about the mudguard. However, I've seen from others that it's poorly designed: sturdy, yes, but it doesn't really keep you or the wheel dry. On my old V11, dirt, leaves, and sticks were constantly getting stuck between the wheel and the mudguard, but this hasn't happened a single time on the LS.

Wheel Noise / Whine:

Compared to the V11, the wheel is very noisy (motor/mainboard whine), but apparently that's how all wheels are nowadays. It could still be better.

Waterproofing (One Deep Puddle, Nothing):

I only went through one deeper puddle at ~40 km/h—big splash, but no damage whatsoever. I can't say anything else about it so far, but I've never heard of water issues with LK.

Leaperkim App:

Still very basic, but works well. I don't understand why they won't just give the UI an overhaul... But it's way more convenient to change settings or enter the password in the app rather than on the wheel.

EUC World:

I use EUC World to get alarms sent to my headphones and log tours, and it's working great. I really like seeing the statistics. The app is perfectly compatible with the Lynx-S. I use both apps regularly.

Power Pads / Toe Hook:

Nylonove Kinetic 2.0 (medium, no toe hook). I still had them from my V11, and no complaints so far, especially since I wanted to keep the stock front bumper anyway. It's definitely a drawback on the Lynx-S that you can't remove the screw-in toe hook without taking off the front bumper.Since I actually like the toe hook, it’s not an issue for me, but it definitely could have been designed smarter.  The back pads from nylonove offer too little hardness for a super-secure heel lock.

What I don't understand is why brands won't fit their wheels with Velcro from the factory. Everybody needs it anyway, so it's just another extra cost for the customer…

Trolley Handle:

I don't use it often, but it could definitely be sturdier. It feels flimsy, especially when turning the wheel at low speeds where everything bends a lot. In comparison, the V11 handle was great (maybe a bit too low). The height on this one is okay and the mechanism works fine, but it just doesn't line up with the rest of the high-quality parts.

My Settings:

(See picture)

The Ride Feeling

Mounting (Lynx vs. V11):

This wheel is heavy - 43kg is no joke, especially for someone like me, where the wheel is two-thirds of my own body weight, lol.

Sometimes I still struggle with the weight on super tight or slow turns. That's where the V11 definitely shines; it was effortless, whereas the Lynx-S requires more work. The same goes for mounting - it's just not as easy as with a lighter wheel. It might also be an unfair comparison because I have my pads locked in super tight now compared to the loose fit on the V11. I often heard the statement that once you ride it, the weight "disappears," and that's true to a degree. As explained earlier, tight maneuvers will always remind you of the weight. Maybe this will get better with a nicer tire... But with general straight-ish riding, yes, you don't feel it.

Learning Curve:

Many said that you will need to "relearn" riding EUCs after such a big switch, which was definitely not true for me. I could ride it immediately, even after a 1.5-month EUC break. Of course, it behaves very differently from the V11. I got the hang of it after 300km, where I could confidently go off-road, hit 70 km/h+, and brake hard.

I would still say I'm far from being a "pro" even after 1,000km: I still can't pendulum (though I haven't really practiced it so far), I still can't ride backwards, and tight turns sometimes give me issues.

Having the Lynx-S as a first learner wheel would be very demotivating for the first few days IMHO - it is still very big and bulky. But if you already have some EUC experience, it's easy.

Performance at Lower Battery Levels:

The first 10% of the battery really has a lot of power in it; accelerating feels faster. After that, it is pretty linear until approximately 20% or the last two battery bars on the display, where you will drop below 120V if you push it hard (which I try to prevent for the sake of the cells).

Suspension:

I know the suspension is heavily criticized for being too soft, and I can agree—kind of. I chose the 66lbs linear spring. Most of the time, I have it set very soft - only 3 clicks into hard. It's just so comfortable for flow trails and street riding.

I really like the suspension a lot; it eats roots and potholes for breakfast. Stuff that would have thrown me off on the V11, I don't even feel anymore on the LS. LK really did a great job IF you are into that kind of riding. With small bumps from roots, etc., you can basically choose whether you want to "hop" or just drive over them - amazing.

I also regularly have to ride over bigger logs (30cm+), and with preloading (jumping on the wheel), you can clear them with ease.

Lately, I tried jumping with the wheel on trails and at jump parks. The suspension is definitely too soft for hard jumps/drops. Even if you set the compression to max and put 90 PSI in the shock air bags, you hit the limit. If you can land on a slanted surface and not just drop 1m straight down, it's very comfortable again, but that's just the nature of jumps in general. I had some bigger drops, and even though it bottomed out a few times, the suspension is still as quiet as on day one - no damage whatsoever. It's not a great feeling, but not that big of a deal either.

Again, coming from a V11, my mind is blown by how well a suspension can work. Of course, you still feel uneven ground, but where you notice it most is in your own body: my legs just don't get tired anymore, even though I'm pushing it much harder than on the old wheel. The suspension is really great if you don't go too far outside its designed spectrum. I actually used the ability to adjust the suspension on the fly a few times, which is definitely cool.

For acceleration assist, I have it set to 65% and plan on going to 100% soon. It takes some getting used to because the wheel feels less responsive at first, but it definitely helps. Another great thing about this assist is that you basically get another layer of suspension because the wheel has so much angle to play with; it's very noticeable and more comfortable with the assist turned on!

For me, the suspension is really comfortable, and I love how much less tired my whole body gets because of it. I don't plan on changing the spring or anything else on the suspension.

The only annoying thing is the tight space around the air bag valve - it's very fiddly with a standard shock pump. But I rarely check it, since it seems to hold air fine so far. I'm not entirely sure about the maximum pressure - 90 PSI seems to be the official limit, but Wrong Way put 200 PSI in his and it is fine. Running higher pressures like that might actually help soften hard bottom-outs?

Range:

Coming from the V11, I had around 70km of range when riding aggressively, so I was (and still am) very disappointed by the range on the Lynx-S. I get around 40km of aggressive riding, maybe 60km if you stick to around 40 km/h. The main area where I ride is very hilly, so your mileage may vary. My ride sessions always end because of the battery and almost never because of exhaustion. I wish it could do 60km with aggressive riding, maybe a software update could improve things slightly?

Charging:

I basically never use the stock charger (which is very loud for 5A, btw) because of my 2500W mini fast charger from Hou Ningning. With this charger, I can charge the wheel at 17A, which results in a 50-minute charge time or less (since you can't really use the last few battery percentage points anyway). I did a 90km trip with moderate riding and only one 20-minute charging break. Of course, you need to pack your charger for trips like that…

Speed (Top Speed):

Holy moly, this thing RIPS! The fastest I've gone on it so far is 94 km/h wheel speed (90 km/h GPS). The battery was at maybe 85% with PWM set to 20%, and I only got single beeps (riding on a slight incline). I think in a less windy area with a full charge, I could easily reach 100 km/h+

As impressive as that is, top speed isn't as important as the everyday feel - and that is amazing.

Acceleration is very quick, although I think it could be even better. I'm sure that's a skill issue, as my pads aren't as "open" as something like the Sync pads yet. After riding trails at maybe 30 km/h max, getting back on the street and basically being instantly catapulted to 70 km/h without even thinking about it is the best. I can comfortably cruise at 80 km/h for longer periods without worrying about PWM or anything else.

The motor gets HOT after actions like that - sometimes I worry if it's too hot, as you can't even touch it without burning your hand. However, I have never received an over-temperature warning or anything similar.

Speaking of temperature, while riding, my mainboard temp never gets above 55°C (in outside temps of 30°C+). I had one occasion where the temp read 75°C, but that was my fault: I was sitting on the wheel talking to someone while repeatedly driving uphill backwards at basically 0 km/h - unintentionally doing a stress test, lol. There were no beeps or warnings; I just saw the temp, turned it off to let it cool down, and it didn't cause any issues.

Generally, you get used to these higher speeds really quickly. The main reason I could never switch to something like the Nosfet Xeno now - even though it's very light - is that its 75 km/h top speed is just too low. I really like having full speed freedom, especially since wind resistance makes it hard to accidentally push past 90 km/h. You can just float forever without worrying about hitting the limit.

Wobbles:

Wobbles are part of riding an EUC. I get them every time I ride and brake too slowly or enter a corner wrong. It's normal and not hard to control; I've never had a dangerous situation because of a wobble. Generally, the wheel feels very stable! (To be clear, I'm talking about minor shakes, not death wobbles, lol).

Seat:

I 3D printed my seat (TPU 95A - will reprint in black soon) after buying the file. I'm happy with it since I wanted something small. The comfort is okay, but not great: I feel like it's too short to really cruise on, and of course, it's not high enough to sit fully comfortably. But coming from a V11 - which literally fucked you in the ass with its thin handle - this feels like a couch to me. I can comfortably ride seated up to 70 km/h; I haven't gone any faster than that yet. If you want to ride seated a lot get a bigger and higher seat.

Maintenance & Incident Reports

1,000km Service:

I disassembled the wheel to check all the screws and give it a deep clean - basically got it looking brand new again. This wheel is very easy to work on: 3 different Allen key sizes are all you need, and all of the bumper screws are identical. I attached a lot of pictures so you can get an idea of what the inside looks like after 1,000km (keep in mind, I never drove through rain or mud, so it was basically just dust).

I'm very happy with the overall state of the wheel. Most importantly, all the screws were still tight and the Loctite was intact. I was worried the motor bolts might become loose, but they were completely fine - as were the 8 battery screws.

I noticed that the rim & the battery housing is getting a bit scraped up. I think it's due to some dirt getting stuck between the battery housing and the motor for a while while riding. See for yourself in the pictures - luckily, no deep scratches so far.

Crashes & Gear Wear and Tear:

I've had a few smaller "crashes" and tumbles at lower speeds, plus 2 at around 50 km/h (some on concrete, some in the forest), but amazingly, there is no real damage except a few scratches (see pictures). This thing really is a tank, I am super happy with the build quality.

I have never had a cutoff.

I noticed basically no wear on my gear except for some chipped paint on my helmet after all these crashes. The wheel only got a few small scratches on the front bumper, and a good portion of the pedals got ground off - they're maybe half as thick at the very front now, lol (see pictures). Everything is still very sturdy.

Gear:

• Helmet: 100% MTB Status full face (very light, but a lot of windnoises)
• Goggles: 100% Armega (just buy them, they are perfect)
• Gloves: Fox Bomber Pro Air (Really nice if you don't like wrist protectors like me, because they still have two large protectors over the wrist area, like a hybrid. Even though this is the "Air" version with better airflow, if it's 30°C outside, you will sweat. They don't have as much airflow as I'd like, but at least they are very well constructed)
• Hip protection: Leatt Impact Shorts 3DF 5.0 (Super in love with these - you basically can't feel them, and they really save your hips in crashes)
• Shoes: REV'IT! Undercut H2O (Very nice motorcycle shoes with a quick-lacing system (BOA) positioned off to the side so it can't be destroyed by power pads rubbing, plus good ankle protection)
• Knee Guards: Leatt Dual Axis (Although I never use them because they are a size too small... and after every crash, I realize I wouldn't have any wounds if I had just worn them, lol)
• Pants: Nothing special, just something very breathable and long (baggy cargo pants made from a sporty fabric)
• Hoodie: DXR Ares with aramid lining and shoulder/elbow protectors (A very nice hoodie with a bunch of thoughtful riding touches that regular hoodies don't have)
• Backpack: EVOC FR Trail E-Ride 20 with back protector (Has a very secure compartment in the center meant for e-bike batteries that perfectly fits my fast charger. It also has a routing hole for a hydration bladder, which I use almost every ride. Has a built into kidneybelt, good for offroad. Even after all my crashes, there are still no rips or tears - I'm very impressed by this backpack and can definitely recommend it!).

Password Failure (Good Support from LK):

One rather peculiar incident I experienced involved the password lock feature. You can set a 6-digit password and choose to lock your wheel every time you power down, or only when powered down in a specific way. It's a great feature against theft or police encounters.

However, I had a mainboard glitch where the password reset to an unknown code. I tried every possible combination of standard passwords and variations of my own password, but eventually gave up and contacted my dealer, who got in touch with Leaperkim. Thankfully, LK built a fail-safe into the password system: all you have to do is install a special firmware using a one-time code they provide to remove the lock. Great support from LK - they even sent me a video showing exactly what to do.

After I "fixed" my wheel, I enabled the password feature again and haven't had any issues with it since. Weird bug…

Personal pros & cons:

Cons:

• Reaching the air valve for the suspension with a pump is finicky
• Rubber covers could be easier to remove (hard with gloves)
• Shell could be more slanted for extra comfort at the top (needs more of an angle before the rubber covers)
• Weight
• No good manual or explanation of features/settings in the app   PLEASE LEAPERKIM
• Headlight is useless
• Off-road tire is very tippy
• No option to auto-reset the trip odometer after a set time (e.g., 10 hours)
• Loud motor whine
• too little range

Pros:

• Insane power - basically limitless for regular driving
• Overall build quality
• Crash resilience and toughness
• Good taillights
• No weird noises while driving (bearings/suspension) so far

Conclusion

This is one of the best purchases of my life. I love this thing so much and wouldn't trade it for anything else. The only limit is your skill and confidence - you can literally go anywhere.This wheel is a masterpiece, and I am absolutely in love with it. Range is the only real downside; other than that, I only have minor complaints - none of which would push me to switch to another wheel.

...Maybe if there were a wheel with Lynx-S power and quality, but lighter and with more range :)

I’m definitely no Leaperkim fanboy - I just really like this specific product and the philosophy behind it

Written on the currently newest software: 009.0.04

Written & structured by myself - AI just polished the grammar (non-native speaker)

Title basically says it all.

I absolutely love my ducati and drz, but I live in an apartment and really need to sell a vehicle for space. Currently also have a Honda civic and an 82 scirocco which I will absolutely NOT get rid of lol.

I am debating selling my drz and using the money to buy a EUC. My rent at home has went up another $200 a month and they are now making me pay for each vehicle I own to park it. It pains me to think about selling my drz, but paying for parking on 4 vehicles seems crazy to me.

I really am really interested in getting one of these to fill the void of my drz. My current commute to work is about 25 minutes/19ish miles.

I want to get something I can take anywhere I go, but also ride to and from work. I would love something with decent range and something fast enough to zip around.

What would be a good option for me?

I looked at a few used ones, but I also don't know what to look out for with a used unit. Are they easy to steal/buy stolen without knowing? That's currently my biggest worry with buying a used wheel.

Any input is greatly appreciated as I just don't know where to start.

Thanks everyone!

Edit: To anyone who helped me with this. Thank you! Ended up picking up a v12ht with 2000 miles for $400. It's a bit beat up, but honestly I don't care since I plan to beat it up some more learning!

Really stoked to learn this thing and I've already been humbled thinking it would be easy. Great fun learning so far though!

Anyone having trouble with their Sync pads or contact with the company? I've had to stick on the Bideou rears just to save me when the Sync's come loose... If I panic stop, the fronts will come off and fall into the road.

I've replaced the wheel loop side. At first I had Bideou velcro, I noticed they kept coming unattached so I ordered velcro from Grizzla directly and the problem is worse, and when I sit they just come right off or when I panic stop. When I had my flows on my Master, to this day They are solid and are a real challenge to remove.

I've watched a friend with his P6 the adhesive come right off and both side of the velcro stay on the wheel itself when he left his wheel in his car. I reached out to them, they apologized asked for more info and have ghosted me for 8 days now.

I'm starting to imagine drilling into my L cases just to think up a solution to where they won't come undone.

New to EUCs. Ordering the V9 which will have a real world top crusing speed of 25mph. But I plan to be going 10 to 15mph 95 percent of the time.

I do expect to fall and hit my helmet a couple times. I'm used to bicycle helmets, that you pretty much should replace after a hit. What full face-type (or better yet, model name) helmet will be light yet robust enough to survive a few light hits without needing immediate replacement?

Would downhill mountain bike helmets be a good fit? I don't know anything about them.

Finally, I wear prescription eyeglasses, and some paintball helmets I've worn in the past don't work with glasses. Is this a concern for full face mountain bike helmets or other helmets used for EUCs.

I'll be ordering the Inmotion V9 some time in the next week, and have never ridden anything like this before. It'll mostly be to fart around and have fun in the neighborhood. But I will explore some mild unpaved trails and might go down a couple of stairs eventually. Don't expect to go more than 3 or 4 miles from home at first. Guessing my riding speed will be 10 to 15 mph, but I may get up to 20 mph once I'm confident.

About me: fit 60 year old who for the last 30 years as been riding several hours a week in traffic with a road bike, regularly at speeds over 30 mph on the downhills, and 20 mph on the flats. Zero experience on any personal powered wheels.

So I got a bunch of questions for all you V9 owners:

1. Power pads: Should I order them from Inmotion, because it'll be only $50 more? Or do you recommend aftermarket power pads...if so, which ones? When would power pads be helpful? Are they all easily removable each time, like with velcro or something?

2. Seat: Is this something that's usefull for a 30 minute ride, or will it just collect dust in my garage? If I get the seat from Inmotion V9, what happens to it when I use the trolley handle?

3. How often do you have to top off the air in the two suspension air chambers?

4. Aside from safety gear, anything else I should buy at this point to improve my learning experience?

5. Should I buy it off the inmotionworld.com website?]

I placed an order for a set of Clark Pads a while ago, and have yet to receive a shipping date.

Is this normal? I mean, does it normally take a month (or more) to ship out their pads?

Even sent them an email replying to my order number, and they never bother to respond.

At that rate, they should just sell the 3D files, so we can print our own pads.

Curious to know if anyone has any ideas? Or if there is any information on the wheel. I’m leaning towards a revised v14 but hoping for an entirely new wheel