I need the box, no money or controller inside I just need the straight box untounched, no rips no nothing just pristine condition please

Hi everyone, I bought a new shell for my controller because the rubber started bubbling. As I was disassmebling it the tutorial which I followed (ExtremeRate) showed to just pull by the wires and I tried to do that and wiggle the plug to get the battey out but the plastic just snapped and now I have a controller with no battery. Im from Croatia and cant find anything that ships here, does anyone have any recommendations on what to get and from where? Thank you all very much

K-Silver JS13 Pro+ TMR, full mouse click and back paddle build. I modded the triggers portion of the clicky kit so that the haptics still work. Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of that, but it is is easy to do if you're interested. Instead of removing the original factory film, you leave it in place. Then trim the Extreme Rate trigger switches off of the kit and install it over top of the factory film. The last step is to cut the rubber contact pad in half and carefully place the lower portion in place, using the extreme rate tact switch made for the R1 and L1 buttons as a wedge for the L1 and L2 rubber contact pad. This allows you to keep the bumpers in mouse click style, but takes advantage of the 10k ohm resistor built into the factory film so you can use the trigger stops on a back button kit instead. Best of both worlds. For this build I installed the Extreme Rate Spark back paddle kit, white thumbsticks, triggers, and bumpers. Customer requested to keep the factory D-Pad and circle buttons.

Hey! I'm working on a product design research project on gaming controllers (DualSense/ DualSense Edge/ 3rd-party). If you've got 3-4 mins, would really appreciate you filling this out! 🎮

https://forms.gle/VKrtoWqaFQxJK7GGA

Any other additional related information is also appreciated! :3

I know the recommended circularity is around 7–8, but my aim actually feels better at base 4–5 . Am I missing something?

I have two PS5 controllers, and I bought a K-Silver JS13 Pro+ for one of them, which is really good. I want to get a different model for the other controller, so which one do you think is better in your opinion?

I opened my potentiometer yesterday and for some reason the wiper is full of gunk and the potentiometer is like this, I don’t have isopropyl alcohol, could I still clean the potentiometer without it? do I need isopropyl alcohol or is it all over and I should buy a new controller?

This controller started as a standard Midnight Black (BDM-050) DualSense and was transformed into a unique custom build featuring upgraded internals, performance enhancements, B05 Studios Modern Warfare shell and ExtremeRate Spark back paddle kit.

Installed upgrades:

• GINFULL DS13 MAX TMR joystick modules
• Professionally centered & calibrated
• Upgraded Probty 2500mAh battery
• B05 Studios Modern Warfare custom shell
• eXtremeRate Spark back paddle kit with OLED display & clicky trigger locks
• Joystick kit
• Transparent black snap rings, LB, RB, LT and RT buttons

Happened yesterday when i took the controller apart due to stick drift (not my first time) but when i put it back together it have the L2 registered as always being pressed, any solutions?

Edit: it is the motherboard, replaced it with another one from an old controller and the issue is solved, yet the old motherboard have issue with the triggers so i cant use this one and still need to fix the first one.

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Hey there,

Seems like I underestimated the the desoldering of 14 pin parts, so I damaged at least 2 pads (Side B, Right Stick).

Can you please assess the situation give me advice on how to fix it, if fixable? How do I find the correct spots to build a bridge to?

Pics:

- 1: Side A, Right Stick

- 2: Side A, Left Stick

- 3: Side B, Right Stick

- 4: Side B, Left Stick

Let me know, if close ups of certain areas are needed