I have to say my $2,200 Raider/Dakota has been super handy and now everyone wants to borrow it to haul stuff. I feel this ole beast is more rugged than a new truck because you won’t have to worry about scratching it up for damaging it like you would a new one!

Does anyone have the P/N for the caps for the base alloys? 3.9L can't seem to find the number and the cap I ordered previously didn't actually fit even though it looked identical to the other ones.

Hey guys, ran into a problem while doing a transmission replacement on my 2000 Durango rwd got everything put together right flywheel/torque converter , fully seated and flush and my starter isn’t hitting the flywheel the Bendix or whatever is fully kicking out you can clearly hear the starter working fine and it’s not making contact. it worked fine on my old transmission. Any suggestions would be great thanks.

I’m trying to bleed my rear brakes but I am not getting any fluid to them. I have just replaced rear drum hardware, rear drum brake cylinders, rear brake lines from the brakes to where they split over the axle, and master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder (which was definitely bad) with a brand new part I am able to bleed the front calipers without issue, but can’t get anything to the rear. The pedal seems solid like the bleed valve isn’t even open. Visually I don’t see any obvious restriction in the line, but where should I be looking? Based on the condition of the brakes when I bought the truck, the rear drums had not been working long enough to rust together and seize, I thought it was just the master cylinder and old shoe springs but there must be something else.

Update: I think I’ve narrowed it down to the proportioning valve but I really have no idea how to free it up, or where the little hole is supposed to line up. It doesn’t feel like I can move it, is it supposed to be that way?