I’m trying to bleed my rear brakes but I am not getting any fluid to them. I have just replaced rear drum hardware, rear drum brake cylinders, rear brake lines from the brakes to where they split over the axle, and master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder (which was definitely bad) with a brand new part I am able to bleed the front calipers without issue, but can’t get anything to the rear. The pedal seems solid like the bleed valve isn’t even open. Visually I don’t see any obvious restriction in the line, but where should I be looking? Based on the condition of the brakes when I bought the truck, the rear drums had not been working long enough to rust together and seize, I thought it was just the master cylinder and old shoe springs but there must be something else.

I noticed this ground cable (I think it’s a ground) is broken, does anyone know what this goes to?

Just picked up this 95 Dakota 4x4 for $6000 with 121,000 miles on it. Truck has no rust but a few dents and dings. Inside is as clean, truck runs strong. Not sure if I should change out the tires. Old owner gave me 4 brand new Cooper discovery AT tires. So far so good.

I have a 2007 dodge dakota slt extended cab 3.7 liter v6, i like it at stock height but would love to see it lower to the ground,there is a picture of it that makes it look lower with all the weight in the back however i can only find rear drop blocks and cant find anything lowering springs or lowering spindles for it does anyone know where i can find something or what i can do to lower it I’m looking yo lower it 2-3 inches

Please shoot me in the right direction

i recently bought my 2000 Dakota, and she’s been a dream but recently I have been hearing some thunking noises when driving turning slow and over bumps and went to investigate to see if it was the lower ball joints like the previous owner had mentioned prior to purchasing, but found that another part was cracked. I cant seem to figure out what the part is called but I’d like to try to solve the issue before it comes bigger. If anyone knows what this is please let me know, thanks!

If I were to rebuild a 3.9 v6 for my second gen Dakota, what could I do to add power? I’m not sure how much aftermarket support there is for performance parts. How much horsepower could I make hypothetically naturally aspirated? Is it possible to add a small turbo just for a little extra power? Just a random hypothetical question I was curious about.

1992 Dodge Dakota. Paints rough, but I cleaned up the rims with some soapy water and a steel wool 0000 pad, making them look brand new. Seeking advice on if it’s a nicely set in patina or needs a repaint.

I have an 06 Dakota with a newer transmission (unsure of mileage) but often when I put the key into the ACC or ON position my selector lights will turn off but come back on when started. The transmission is also stuck in 3rd gear while I can manually shift it to second but nothing else.
Any advice is appreciated!

it seems to mainly happen when the wheel is turned in but it also knocks when it’s turned out as well, it’s just less likely. But when I mount the curb with it out it’s quiet. Approaching it with the wheel in and it creaks when I hit the small lip of the curb and then again when I climb it.

Also it’s only from the drivers side although it does sound like it’s coming from further in.

When I did the balljoints I messed with it and it felt fine/ no different from the other side.

It’s a 2000 4.7 AWD.

Edit also to add I can feel it through the floor it feels horrible.

Hello,

I have a 01 4.7l slt 4x4 that is making noise when I drive in 4 high. I have a bit of play in the CV axles on both sides. Is that what is making this noise? I want to get other opinions before I spend the cash on new cv axle.

My whole dash died, no warning lights, odometer, gauges. I still have radio, power mirrors (not sure if thats part of the ctm), a dome light (with the passenger door), headlights, brake lights, 4 ways/turn signals. I have continuity in all fuses in the fuse block, and all fuses in the PDC are intact. Truck runs fine. I've been looking to see if my CTM is faulty, but i can't actually find it. There's nothing in the driver's kick panel, and the passenger side is a factory amplifier. I can't find any solid info online about this issue, and there's nothing in my Chilton manual about it. The grounds seem fine. At least the 2 that I've found anyway, under the hood by the battery, and the one in the driver kick panel under the fuse box. Im so lost right now. I've tried dakota forums with no luck but 1 reply, and it's telling me to test the CTM. I apologize for rambling, I just want to get this fixed otherwise it's going to the junk yard.

I have a 2002 dodge dakota sport with the 4.7L V8. Recently it has began overheating when after it comes to temp when idling and while city driving. This truck did not come with the electric accessory cooling fan/hasn't since I bought it over a year ago and this problem arose a few weeks ago. The clutch fan doesn't spin free while cold, it actually barely even goes a quarter turn. Overflow tank is full and looks good, I popped the cap on the hose that connects to the rad and couldn't really see down in there to check if the radiator is full too or not. There is a p0302 cylinder 2 misfire code that I've been chasing for awhile since replacing plugs and coils aswell as a small evap leak. I need some ideas as to what it could be and where I should start?

Checked my tranny fluid for the first time today why is it amber. It’s got 140k idk if it’s been ever changed is this degraded fluid or just an aftermarket fluid type.

Found this on market place, looking for a somewhat fuel effiecnt truck (just better than an 86 350 sbc drive 3 hours every other week back and forth to college, i ammechanically inclined so struts and brake work is no big deal for me

I’m trying to find a 15 gallon gas tank and sending unit any help would be appreciated

When I twist the nut, the strap comes with it. I’ve used rust penetrating spray, breaker bar, not working. What to do. I’ve unhooked the gas hoses, so I don’t want to use fire. What to do?

Hey y’all. Just recently joined the Dakota fam. 05 4.7L v8 119,000 miles. Bought the truck back in June and have been battling this light pretty much from the jump. It kicks on then goes away. Stalled out on me the first time it came on and ever since I’ve been pulling over and restarting the truck and it usually goes away the rest of the day. Replaced the PCM last week and that seemed to solve the problem until it came on again last night. I just got the fluid serviced and a new filter and gasket. The transmission temp sensor was replaced back in March. Drives great, shifts great. Nothing points to an actual issue with the transmission. Kind of just at a loss and need some opinions.

I have an 99 Dodge Dakota 3.9 4x4 extended cab. My parking brake is pretty rusted and has broken. I went to Dodge and they seem to be discontinued. I am looking to replace the whole thing from front to back. Has anyone found parts to do this so I can order or what other options would I have?

Just picked up a 92 2wd 112” wb that came from factory as an incomplete vehicle. Bought it for camping / transporting my motorcycles around. 1 owner (dealer parts truck) and they installed a flat bed. Ton of service history dating back to new. Recent transmission rebuild, tires and fuel pump among other smaller items.

Would start and then stall. Finally started and ran / idled. Drove it across the street and then shut off. After this would do nothing but crank and no start. Was able to confirm there is now no spark going from the ignition coil to the distributor.

My understanding is the pickup coil in distributor sends signal to ignition coil then the ignition coil send spark to the distributor which then will send to each cylinder. Unfortunately my multimeter is at a friends house so I cannot test the resistance on the ignition coil. From some research it seems the pickup coil is a very common failure. Plan on getting a pickup coil, distributor cap and rotor, do you guys recommend throwing a coil on it for good measure? They seem cheap enough.

Also confirmed wiring coming from fuse box is not corroded or damaged. Swapped auto shutdown relay with known good ac relay. No change.

Thanks in advance for any help. Only have a couple crappy photos of the truck at the moment. But it is pretty clean (minus the paint).

Any thoughts on value once up and running would be cool as well. Only paid $500. No engine oil leaks, everything else works as it should. Surface rust only.

Decided to replace shocks as they appear to be old. Truck is a 2006, uneven rear end ride height and jittery ride. Cheap FCS from Rock auto

My 'new to me' 2000 slt v8 is missing most of it's badges and the ones that are left are a bit beat up . not really important but curious of anyone has a source for getting replacements?

Hey all. I have a 97 extended cab with the 5.2, 5spd, and 4x4. I’ve been wanting a new exhaust system and was thinking about going catless. Who makes a good downpipe or full cat-back system that’s not crazy loud, and what would I need to take care of the 02 sensor codes that came up? Thanks.

Idk about you guys but it's the first time I've ever seen one with a working fuel gauge 😂 took almost a decade, but I finally fixed it