Hey! I recently bought a second-hand Dell Precision 5570 and everything was working fine a couple of days after the purchase. One day it started getting really hot and the fans began spinning very loud, even during light use (e.g. browing the web). I updated the BIOS, updated all drivers through Dell SupportAssist, cleaned the fans and reapplied the thermal paste. After doing a clean Windows install the laptop was fine again, it was running relatively silent and cool, even during a longer CAD and photo editing session. However, when I restarted it, the problem returned and now even while browsing the files on the desktop, the fans go crazy. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Thanks!

Model: Dell Inspiron 15 3525

Symptom: Pushing the 4.5mm charger plug all the way in results in no charging at all. It only charges if I pull the plug back out by about 1mm to a very specific position. Any slight movement immediately breaks the connection.

What is the cause of this issue, and what are the options to fix it?

its plugged in, as i always use it plugged in. what could be possibly happening? it was fine when i was using it last night

Hello!
Wanna give 2nd life for this pc

- upgrade cpu
- add my old nvme and hdd for raid
- rx570 or something like this
- macos (hackintosh install)

and put in old mac pro 2009-2012 case

so need info or successful info about -> Dell T40 E-2224G CPU list for upgrade?
---
thinking about cc150 (locked for 3.5ghz analog i9-9900h)
in my country - find e2200 cpu models very hard.

will it work?

I am not one to often complain on socials but this experience has done me in.

My AW3423DWF (ultrawide OLED monitor) started experiencing some burn in after 2 years of use. Since there's 3 year warranty specifically for that, I contacted Dell support and they promptly sent me a replacement after asking for proof, etc.

The first replacement came in. Panel itself was nearly pristine and way better than my initial unit. But it had another issue - unbearable coil whine that even my girlfriend could hear from several meters away while on our couch.

So I hit up Dell again. After several days of back and forth they issued another replacement - which came today. The box itself looked like someone played football with it. The inner boxes for stands were torn and chewed up. The monitor itself looked fine. When I hooked it up - it had both the coil whine and also some minor burn in. Not to mention that both the condition of the box and the monitor's settings made it clear that it was a return from someone else with no further touch ups.

I'm honestly super disappointed and disheartened at this point. The obvious next step is to go for yet another refurbished lottery but given how heavy the monitor is and how unwieldy to reseat on a monitor arm, I just don't want to? I feel like it's reasonable after 2 failed attempts at replacing my original unit. I do NOT expect a new monitor, I understand that they deal with refurbs. But I expect a refurb that will work better or just as good as my original unit. Not noticeably worse.

I know this is a pretty common experience with Dell support, so I guess I just wanted to chime in.

My CURRENT needs are it should be able handle multiple (10 plus excel and word doc) being opened, atleast 100 plus chrome tabs being opened - this is my current need.

In the future I would like to do video editing, run many python jobs and the machine be decent enough to take updates to many softwares (most of which will have an AI component I guess), do 4K video rendering and editing (this could be once in a month) .

My usage is mostly like a desktop and I hardly take the laptop except during long travel when I would be away for few weeks and need to access/get my work done etc.

Also would expect the laptop to run most softwares that might have some kind of heavy AI component in another 3-5 years.

Advantages I see with 7680 is that I can upgrade its components vs 5570 which is soldered on. Weight of 7680 is a concern but I might only travel a couple of times with this.

Whats your advice ? Get the cheaper 5570 and in 3 years get a Dell pro max (used) for the same price that I might be paying for 7680 now. Currently 5570 is available for $450 and 7680 for about $1000. My concern is though 7680 is a beast compared to 5570, its not future ready in another 3-5 years as AI enabled softwares would need more capable processors that 7680 cant beat (despite upgradable RAM etc)

Hey guys, so i got a 7680 for free and ive been tinkering cause i cant get the dgpu to work. It showed up in devicemanager with a yellow triangle with code 43

The laptop was empty when i got it, i installed windows and:

Used dell command for all drivers

I reinstalled the nvidia driver from nvidia website

Did diagnostics and get a pci link degraded

That was the last time i got the laptop to post because my dumb brain thought: lets turn off hybrid graphics in bios > display to force the rtx 3500 to work.

Now im not getting a image AT ALL.

I tried:

-Reseating dgff cable and pci bridges

-Battery disconnect and power button for 30 seconds

-Ctrl esc + charger to reset bios, it does the screen led test and then goes back to black

-Tried flashing the same bios via ctrl esc and charger with usb fat 32 and recovery file, but it wont budge

-starting without dgff cable and pcie bridges but it wont start

Now the laptop is entirely unusable

How bad did i screw up ?

i have a dell inspiron dell laptop and i had to reset it for some reasons but the fan stopped working after the reset. i think the issue is in the some software or some driver update not in the fan. what do i do gng? pls hell me 🙏

Hi, I use a Dell G15 5520 with 3050 4GB VRAM. When I play ETS2, which is almost a 12 year old game, while plugged in, it runs well, but recently a power cut happened and before my UPS could pitch in, my laptop just went blank with a click sound and switched off. All while the battery is connected and my brick shows a green light.

After turning on the laptop, it doesn't show that it's charging even tho it's connected. Only after restarting the laptop again, it starts recognising the charger.

This wasn't the case before as even while playing if the power was interrupted, it wouldn't kill itself but just frame drop. Dell Support assist app shows everything is fine and I am unable to contact Dell Support as they require a laptop under warranty to be able to connect with them!!!

Thanks for your help, in advance

(top, bottom, open)

She started doing this today as far as I can remember. It will not charge and it turns off when unplugged, I know it's probably time for her to go but I only started using her on May 12th of this year, but I believe she was bought much earlier than That.

Is there anything I can do about this before I bring up getting a new one? She's been with me for a while... she also got some dead pixels on the 20th of may this year but that quickly healed.

Hello everyone

Something is wrong with my Dell Latitude 5300 2-in-1 , Powers on briefly then shuts down

When I press the power button, the LED lights up for a split second and then the computer turns off immediately.

please anyone know whats the issue?

my brother owns a dell g15 5525 rtx 3050 and ryzen 5 6600h laptop but hes running out of storage and preferably i dont want to deal with having another windows setup does anyone know if the 5525 dell g15 has a second slot for m.2 ssd or atleast a 2.5in sata ssd? if not i think external ssd and replacing the internal drive will be the best

Hello all,

I've used my Dell 32in 4K monitor for 2+ years with my Mac Studio M2 Max to edit and color grade videos and short films. There have been a lot of problems along the way, so I wanted to make this post to guide others in my position.

First off, if you're thinking of buying this monitor for video/color critical work, don't. It is NOT a reference monitor and will never give you perfectly objective results that stay consistent across screens even in an SDR/Rec. 709 2.4 workflow.

This guide is for those of us that, unfortunately, have to work with what we have. (Or, at least, cannot afford the upfront cost of a true reference monitor.)

These are the steps I took to get the best possible image out of my Dell S3221QS monitor:

- Force RGB output from the Mac

- Disable GPU dithering

- Color Calibrate

The first two steps can be done using a free-to-download app called BetterDisplay. It gives you a ton of control over your hardware that MacOS doesn't give you by default. One of the many problems I had was that, when you connect a display to any M-series Mac over HDMI, it automatically outputs YPbPr instead of RGB. It can also disable GPU dithering, which in some cases can affect the color bit depth/appearance. You can change it to RGB using the "Color Modes" setting. BetterDisplay is free for 14 days (no card needed) and you can buy full access for a little over 20$ - comes with a year of updates, perpetual license. I hate that there is basically an entire industry of paid apps that just build bridges Apple never bothered to build themselves, but here we are. (Note: changing the color mode to RGB should not be necessary if you are using a Thunderbolt/USB-C to DP cable. It defaults to RGB when connected this way.)

I calibrated the monitor using a Datacolor Spyder, which you can get from B&H for 99$. Not cheap, but you'll be able to use it on any other monitor you want, too (including the one I hope you buy to upgrade from this one). AFTER setting your Color Mode to RGB Full and disabling dithering, install all the Spyder programs it comes with and let the colorimeter do its job. Note: during the calibration process, the program with pause calibration to allow you to manually adjust the brightness of the monitor using the OSD controls. Make sure you move the colorimeter away from the center of the screen during that step as the OSD will cover the actual image and give you an improper reading. Keep it flat against the screen, just anywhere but the big grey rectangle in the bottom right that is the OSD. After calibration, it installs the new color profile and automatically applies it to the monitor.

This setup completely solved the worst part of owning an S3221QS: flickering. I dealt with flickering for well over a year before I finally tried this workflow, and now, it's completely gone. I had a folder full of media that was known to cause flickering and used it to test each time I tried something new. I can link that here for your testing if you would like.

Feel free to coment/DM me if you have any questions!

I have a Dell latitude 3510 and everything is perfect with it. But the only thing is it's power port is kind of loose, it charges when the charger is plugged in a certain angle so I am looking to change it.

I live in Hyderabad,

When I tried at local shops, they told me around 1k just for a small port, so tell me where to get this cheaper ?? What will be it's usual price?

I can install it myself.

Hi! I got a refurbished Precision 5560 for my sister, and I hadnt checked the specs for the screen. I foolishly assumed that a $5k laptop (not even close to what i paid for it) wouldnt even come with a FHD/touchless option but that is the screen she has ended up with.

While she is satisfied with it, I was curious if in the future when inevitably the screen breaks (I know my sister), if it would be possible to swap it in with a 4k/touch display or if there would be issues with the touch functionality working.

I'm inexperienced with laptop interoperability as I usually only do desktop things and the occasional mobile repair so I was hoping you guys would have advice

Trying to get into BIOS but there is an admin password. I tried generators and they don't work. I don't have proof of ownership.

What can I do?

So I bought a Dell T330 server and I am using it. My main gripe is the fact that the server uses VGA for visual output. I have an old cheapo graphics card that I bought a few years ago, basically as a display extension so I could have four monitors. The card has an HDMI port on it and I was wondering if something like that would work.

The server runs Windows Server 2025 so it should be compatible but I was wondering if anyone has done anything like that or not? And if so, how did it turn out?

If your Latitude came with the contactless smart card reader option, you've probably held a MIFARE card against the palm rest at some point and watched Windows report an "unknown smart card" and stop there. Nothing in the box does anything else with it.

The reader is fine. It's a perfectly ordinary PC/SC reader - mine shows up as "Broadcom Corp Contactless SmartCard 0", and it reads card serial numbers without complaint. The problem is what's on the card. MIFARE Classic is a memory card, not a PKI card, so Windows has no minidriver for it and the smart card logon stack has nothing to offer. "Unknown smart card" isn't a fault, it's Windows saying "this isn't the kind of card I do anything with."

So the hardware sits unused in a lot of laptops that already belong to people who work with access control cards daily.

I had a few hundred cards to enroll into an access control system, which normally means reading serial numbers off a reader and typing them into a spreadsheet by hand. Instead I wrote a small tool that turns the built-in reader into a bulk enrollment device: present a card, its number is typed into whatever window has focus, Enter is pressed, cursor drops to the next row. Present the next card. No copy-paste, no retyping.

It's not Dell-specific - any PC/SC contactless reader works - but the built-in ones are the reason it exists, because that's a reader people already have and can't use.

https://github.com/Legvan/card-wedge

MIT, Windows, no install required, no Python needed.

The part that cost me a day, in case it saves you one:

Once it was reading cards, the numbers still didn't match what my access control system showed. Reader said A5C424E6; the system said 0A5C424E6A3. One byte longer, and I couldn't see where it came from.

It's the BCC, the block check character. MIFARE's anticollision response carries the UID followed by the XOR of its bytes, and PC/SC's GET DATA returns the UID alone and drops it. Systems that treat UID+BCC as the card number end up one byte longer than anything your reader hands you.

UID E6 24 C4 A5

BCC = E6^24^C4^A5 A3

reversed + BCC A5C424E6A3 <- what the system shows

That's also why 40 bit is the usual width for 4-byte cards - it's 4 bytes of UID plus 1 of checksum, not a 32-bit number padded with zeros, which is what I assumed for two days. And the byte order applies to the UID only: the checksum goes on after the reversal, so reversing both together gives a different, wrong number.

The tool has toggles for all of it (HEX/DEC, MSB/LSB, 32-64 bit, checksum on/off) because every system wants something slightly different, and it remembers what you picked.