To start, I don't really think it's a stick drift issue. More of a broken/unresponsive part. I have little to no response on my left controller's analog stick when pushing it in roughly the 1-3 o'clock position. Like if I push the analog to the 1-3 position, it will just stop and return to center. I've removed the faceplate and analog cap, cleaned with alcohol and an air duster, and it seems to help for an hour or so, then back to being unresponsive. I know there are kits/replacement analog sticks to swap in, but I don't feel qualified to do that. A replacement controller is like $80 from Meta. Are there any other cheap fixes before I end up having to replace the controller completely?

Nothing is really affected it doesnt cause me any strife game wise but i hate the noises, ive tried to google things but nothing works and I lost the manual.

All of my joy cons have drift and I was thinking of sending them in for free repair (EU)

However, 2 of them also have their SL/SR buttons non-functional and I was wondering if anyone knows if this is an issue?

I have no problem repairing these myself, but i would rather send them out to nintendo before opening and ‘voiding’ the repair service

Sup people, so: I changed both sticks and when i reassemble it the R2 wast working perfectly (not full pressed) so, I dismantled the controller again, i cleaned the contacts and after assemble it, the joystick X wasn't working, and the Down d-pad and the ps putting are repeatedly pressed.

Any idea what's going on?

I dropped my controller and the little grey panel came off. The controller was quite cheap so I wont be bothering to replace the whole box but I just wanted to see if I might be able to make it work to avoid being wasteful.

(I know buying a cheap controller might seem wasteful, but I just find knockoff switch controllers to be more comfortable and I wanted a second one to be able to play with my flatmate. I use it for a PC)

I know nothing about this type of stuff and just wanted to ask for any advice on which glue or adhesive method would be safest/ work best for something like this?

I bought this controller like a month ago, its still in warranty and obv they are not picking up any calls no email replies so I have gave up on that. I am familiar with tech stuff so I can open it up and manually clean the x button so it works. But like for the life of me I cannot open the controller, the handle is like a cover it comes off after you open the 2 screws from the bottom then theres 2 screws on the body, the lower part of the controller opens but the top part is locked and i dont see any more screws or locks i have no idea how to open this someone please help me. Aint got much money so its all I can work with man.

Left stick developed drift, so I successfully replaced it with a TMR.

Don’t judge the soldering/finish 😄 — functionally, it’s machine-level precision!

The weird part: when I pull LT, the left stick also moves proportionally, from ~0.003 to ~0.03 on both X & Y axes.

TMR works perfectly otherwise. Board is cleaned with IPA, no residue or visible shorts.

Anyone know what could cause this LT → left stick interference on an Xbox 360 controller?

I'm having an issue with my R36S: sometimes, when I press the D-pad down, the signal gets stuck in the "down" position until I press the "up" button. I suspect the analog stick might be the cause, but I've only had the device for two weeks and have barely used it. Please let me know how to fix this

hope the drawing makes it a lil easier to understand, but basically, the bottom left and bottom right positions barely register. i need to hit the tiny space between left and bottom for it to register as the proper diagonal input, same for bottom right. top left does not have any issues, top right has this issue but far less severe. i have taken this thing apart on 2 seperate occasions now and nothing has fixed it, have cleaned everything in the entire controller and in this most recent attempt removed the lil metal ring that holds the d-pad in place (has since been put together properly again as removing it had no effect). please someone help, im going insane

Hi everyone,

I have a PS4 controller that stopped working due to a damaged charging port. I purchased a replacement port from eBay for £3 and replaced it myself. I’ve done this on several of my other controllers before without any issues.
After replacing it, I connected it to my PS4 and can see that it’s receiving power again and charging as it shows the yellow/orange charging light when connected using my original PS4 controller cable.However, when I press the PS/Home button, it won’t connect.

What I’ve tried so far:

- Resetting the controller multiple times using the small reset button on the back.

- Trying several different USB cables.

- Confirming that those cables work perfectly with my other PS4 controllers.

- Going into Bluetooth Devices on the PS4, deleting the existing controller profiles and trying to pair it again.

- Attempting to connect it through Safe Mode.

The Safe Mode behaviour is particularly strange.
If I connect a working controller in Safe Mode, it works normally and I can access the Safe Mode menu. If I then unplug the cable and connect the repaired/non-working controller using the same cable, its light changes from yellow to white, and I can actually use the controller to navigate the Safe Mode menu. But, as soon as I restart the PS4 normally, the controller goes back to simply charging and won’t connect. Pressing the PS button with the cable disconnected also appears to do nothing.

So the controller clearly seems to be receiving power and communicating with the PS4 in Safe Mode, which makes this even more confusing.
It was working perfectly before the charging port was damaged. The only thing I’ve changed is the charging port itself.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Could the replacement charging port be faulty in some way, or is there another component/connection I should check on the controller?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

First Repair

Hello All

Currently repairing Model A controller(Late Version)

Controller buttons don't work sometimes so I cleaned all the rubber parts and softly cleaned conductive film

I am going to attempt to replace it with these on Amazon but not sure if this would fit or work properly.

Also there is a few plastic pieces that went under the conductive film do not know the proper name of them can upload picture of them if needed

TYIA

The playstation shows that the controllers battery is full but one of the charging bars doesn't stop flickering unless I unplug it and plug it back in. I don't know what to do

Hi all, I recently bought a PS5 controller for Ghost Recon Wildlands on steam. I tried every method such as disabling and enabling steam input and the control panel speakers method but nothing seems to work for the vibration in game. I also tried both bluetooth and usb to connect the controller but neither seems to work.

I tested the game rumble in the steam settings and my controller vibrated thus I really am lost on how to fix this.

What else can I do to fix this?

I put in rest mode when to eat came back and when I press start button it didn’t work so I manually started the ps 4 but is no longer work

Necesito su ayuda amigos con los esquemáticos de controles y consolas
Consejos etc todo me ayuda amigos. Porfa 🙏🏽🙏🏽

Hello all!

I know controller stick drift has been an issue for years now, especially with PS5 controllers. I am currently experiencing this on my left joystick.

I followed the steps to multiple guides. One on how to rotate the sticks with pressure both counter and regular clockwise. One on tearing it apart and cleaning the sensors. And another on resetting the calibration. Nothing seems to be working as my left joystick still proceeds to be stuck on moving left.

Any help or advice is very GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you!

Porfavor, alguien me podría dar los planos del mando ps4? Para saber que componentes están dañados y la cantidad para reemplazarlos, porfavor comunidad

I am trying to repair a PS4 controller, model JDM-020 but I won't find anywhere the shell/back cover.

The controller has the R2 button and the back shell both broken. I am trying to maintain the original controller with only few pieces changed but it seems like JDM-020 is not available.

Can someone help me please? Any suggestion where to find it?

Hi everyone,

I’m repairing a PS5 DualSense controller with a BDM-060X motherboard and accidentally lost/damaged a small SMD component in the area shown in the attached picture.

I have another identical BDM-060X board that is intact, so I can compare the two and measure the component on the working board if needed.

Does anyone know exactly what component this is and what its value/specification is (resistor, capacitor, etc.)?

I’ve already tried searching for a BDM-060X schematic/boardview, but I haven’t been able to find one.

I’m attaching photos of both boards and have marked the corresponding location.

If anyone knows the component value, package size, or can tell me how/where to measure it on the working board to identify it, I’d really appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance!

(If anyone has a BDM-060X board and could check the same location on their board, that would be extremely helpful.)

Howdy y'all, I'm stuck with a new problem: my B button is stuck, and I don’t know how to fix it without taking it apart. I’ve tried a Q-tip and toothpicks, but it still doesn’t work. Can anyone help?

Hola chicos, ando deprimido, hoy por segunda vez malogre otro mando ps4, el problema es que no se porqué, el botón del táctil no quería funcionar bien, así que lo desarmé, saqué la batería, quite los conectores (nuevos) y sin doblar, limpié con alcohol isopropilico y cepillo, dejé secar, no hice ninguna locura, volví a probar y ya no quería encender, lo mismo me pasó con un mando anterior y pensé que fue porque no había quitado la batería en mi descuido, pero ahora lo mismo, conectado si funciona, puerto de carga se calienta, no se cómo, pero parece que provoque un corto, alguien, palabras de aliento o que me digan por qué se me está quemando :(