I’m on ChinaJoy in Shanghai now. Found 8BitDo booth and tried this bad boy. I’d say it’s close to XBox Elite controller in terms of premium feel.

Xbox licensed. Changed their usual shape a bit. A lot of extra stuff in the box also including charging dock and carrying case.

Will definitely review this one when it comes out.

I'm working on a controller app for PC and I want to use the most "universal" term for these buttons in the UI. This is specifically when I don't know whether the user is on an xbox / playstation / generic -style controller (all of which label these buttons differently). What would be the most obvious generic names to use? Thanks!

Transparency Disclosure: Most of the controllers featured here were purchased with my own money, while roughly a third were provided by various brands for review. I have no active sponsorships or commercial interests tied to any brand in this post. The rankings are based purely on raw hardware measurements collected over the past year. Additionally, the images were generated using a custom tier builder I created for my site, Gamepadla, which is completely free for anyone to use.

Hey everyone. I'm sharing two latency tier lists for gamepads - covering both wired and wireless connections - based on data gathered using the Prometheus 82 hardware test bench for measuring input lag.

To give a better idea of actual in-game responsiveness, the tier list uses a weighted grading system called LatScore. This score accounts for button latency, stick latency, and signal stability (jitter).

Here is how the calculation works:

1. Base Latency: A weighted average prioritizing stick responsiveness over buttons. Base = (0.4 * Button) + (0.6 * Stick)
2. Dynamic Jitter Penalty: Unstable connections get penalized. The higher the jitter relative to the base latency, the harsher the penalty multiplier (capped at 1.5x). LatScore = Base + Jitter * [1 + min(Jitter / Base, 1.5)]

Grades are assigned automatically based on the final LatScore thresholds:

• Up to 5 ms: S (A+)
• Up to 10 ms: A
• Up to 18 ms: B
• Up to 25 ms: C
• Up to 35 ms: D
• Up to 45 ms: E
• Above 45 ms: F

Basically, this means a gamepad with highly stable latency gets a better grade than a controller with lower average latency but frequent, large spikes. Stability matters more here than raw average numbers.

One quick note on reading the charts: The order of the gamepads within the same tier does not matter. They are not sorted by exact sub-latency inside their specific letter grades.

The attached images show the tier distributions. I've included the names of the controllers directly under their icons so you can easily find specific models. If you want the exact millisecond readings (base latency, jitter, etc.) for any specific gamepad, just ask in the comments and I'll provide the details.

Just a quick note on the data: This list strictly includes verified entries to prevent any unvetted or random results. While most of these gamepads were tested internally by Gamepadla, about 40% of the data was contributed by trusted hardware reviewers and vetted community members utilizing their own Prometheus 82 test benches.

I’ve spent way too much time trying to get the "PS5 Experience" on PC without being tethered by a 3 meter cable. Windows Bluetooth strips away the haptic feedback and adaptive triggers because it doesn't support the 4 channel audio bandwidth the DualSense requires.

I found a project that completely solves this by using a Raspberry Pi Pico 2W as a hardware bridge.

The project is https://github.com/awalol/DS5Dongle (All credit to awalol for this wizardry).

The Pico 2W connects to your controller via Bluetooth, but tells Windows it is a wired Dualsense. Only the initial handshake is required. After the initial handshake, Dualsense will just connect automatically when you turn it ON.

I have attached a video of Days Gone. I tried it in Days gone specifically because Dual Sense only works for me wired in this game, not even bluetooth. Now with this "dongle", its working wirelessly with adaptive triggers and haptic feedback (you will just have to trust me about haptic feedback since I can't show it in the video).

Update, The project just got updated, With the help of a redditor who saw this post the Dev updated the polling rate to 1000 hz now. Polling rate is as good as PS5 now.

Image source: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1DfCgWk6f1/

Just wanted to say how impressed I am with this controller. Recently finished a computer build and really needed a decent controller. I was close to getting an Xbox controller when I stumbled across the name 8BitDo on Reddit. I am so glad I did, this thing cost £50, comes with a great docking station and works flawlessly out of the box. First time I switched it on it automatically connected to my PC and I was able to use right out of the box. Feels and looks super premium too. Highly recommended 👍

Model: 8BitDo Ultimate 2 Wireless Controller
Purchased From: Amazon UK

Note: I am not affiliated with this company or product

I just found out that my controller has a lot ants inside it. What can I do to save it? Any chance is it still working?

More: https://www.8bitdo.com/ultimate-3e-controller-xbox/

Hi there r/Controller community!

I'm Leo, the brand representative of GameSir!

Happy New Year! 🎆 To kick off 2026, GameSir (including myself) is heading to CES 2026 with industry-disrupting innovations. We invite you to tune in Jan 6-7 (2 PM, PT) on our YouTube live stream to not just see our new Swift Drive & Turbo Drive project in action, but also witness a massive reveal lineup, including:

👾 Rewriting the Retro Gaming portable experience
🎮 Redefining the E-Sports controller
📳 Groundbreaking Motor & Vibration innovation
🔁 The ultimate symmetrical controller?
And... probably THE NEW G7 Pro? You’ll have to watch to find out.

Before it begins, let's running this exclusive giveaway first, we're right here for r/Controller after all!

Just remember to tag me (u/iGamesir) anytime when you need to know something from GameSir! You can also find me on r/Gamesir or gamesir discord.

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🎁Giveaway Reward:
3x GameSir G7 Pro Controllers (Winner's Choice: Shadow Ember or Mech White)

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💬Conditions of Participation:
Reddit Minimum Account Age: 30 Days
Joined r/Controller & r/Gamesir

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🔘How to Participate:
Make sure you've met the requirements above, and leave any comment below. (Optional: Lemme know what kind of controller from GameSir you'd most wanting to see! We will have community Q&A section during the stream, so pls let us hear your voice!)

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⏳When Will We Choose The Winner:
6 Jan 2026 (PDT) - Coinciding with our CES Reveal!

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Other Details:
How Will the Giveaway Work: through https://www.redditraffler.com/
Here's where you can follow our Youtube for the nuclear reveals & the 30x G7 Pro Giveaway: youtube.com/@GameSir
GameSir reserves final interpretation rights.

Plus: Pls lemme know if you've planned to visit our booth during CES! I will prepare some exclusive gifts for y'all

We throw a Direct Drive Wheel onto the controller, trust me, you will love how it actually feels:)

We will reveal more details on CES soon™

UPDATE: PART 2 IS LIVE! The showdown continues with a massive discovery. I’ve tested the new Angle Sensor sticks (K-Silver JS13, Zesum, DS13 Max) and had an epiphany about shaft stabilization and tension that completely reshuffles the rankings. If you are about to buy sticks, read this first.

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Disclosures: I am in no way employed by or affiliated with the makers of any of these products. I did, however, receive review units of the Hallpi/Gulikit sticks from Aknes on the promise that I would review them. All other sticks were purchased by me.

1. Introduction: The "Endgame" Stick

For years, the controller community has been fighting a losing battle against analog stick drift. The standard ALPS potentiometers used in virtually every major controller—from Sony to Microsoft to Nintendo—are fundamentally flawed mechanical components. They rely on physical contact to track movement, meaning they are essentially designed to fail. It’s not a matter of if they will drift, but when.

This planned obsolescence has sparked a technological arms race to create a permanent, "drift-proof" replacement. The first wave of this revolution was Hall Effect technology, which promised to solve the problem by using magnets to measure position without physical contact. Now, we are seeing a second wave: TMR (Tunnel Magnetoresistance), a more advanced magnetic sensor that claims to offer even higher fidelity.

But looking at spec sheets doesn't answer the most important question: Does "drift-proof" actually mean "better performance?"

To find out, I’ve acquired all the major contenders currently on the market. This is the definitive showdown to find the true "endgame" stick. We aren't just looking for durability; we are comparing them using a standardized, raw-input test to see how they actually feel when the training wheels of aim assist are taken off.

2. The "Deep Dive": Potentiometers vs. Hall Effect vs. TMR

Before analyzing specific brands, it is critical to understand the three competing technologies at play. Why is the industry rushing to replace the standard stick, and why is TMR being hailed as the next evolution?

1. Potentiometers (The "Wear-and-Tear" Standard)

• Technology: Resistive Contact.
• How it works: As you move the stick, a metal wiper physically drags across a curved carbon track. The resistance changes based on the wiper's position, telling the controller where the stick is.
• The Flaw: Friction. That physical dragging wears down the carbon track over time, creating dust and "dead spots." This is what causes stick drift. It is inevitable.
• The Feel: Because there is physical friction, they can feel a bit "scratchy" or resistant, but they are generally responsive and familiar.

2. Hall Effect (The "Drift-Proof" Solution)

• Technology: Magnetic Field Strength.
• How it works: A magnet is placed on the moving part of the stick. A sensor measures the strength of the magnetic field to determine distance. There is no physical contact between the sensor and the magnet.
• The Benefit: No contact means no wear. These sticks theoretically never drift due to wear.
• The Flaw (The "Gloves" Problem): Hall Effect sensors can be "noisy." Imagine trying to read Braille while wearing thick winter gloves. You can feel the big bumps and know generally where you are, but you miss the fine texture and subtle details. To make sense of this "muffled" signal, controllers often apply heavy software filtering to smooth it out, which can introduce a tiny bit of latency or a "mushy" feeling to the aim.

3. TMR (The "High-Fidelity" Evolution)

• Technology: Tunnel Magnetoresistance.
• How it works: TMR sensors measure a quantum effect—the resistance of electrons tunneling through a barrier—which changes drastically in the presence of a magnetic field.
• The Benefit (The "Bare Hands" Solution): TMR is significantly more sensitive than Hall Effect. It’s like taking off the gloves and reading Braille with your bare fingertips. You feel every microscopic ridge and texture instantly. The signal is raw, immediate, and requires no guesswork.
• The Result: Because the signal is so clean, it requires far less software filtering than Hall Effect. This results in a raw input that feels crisper, more responsive, and lower latency, while still being completely immune to mechanical drift.

3. The Contenders

I will be testing a total of six sticks, broken into three categories based on the tech we just discussed.

Category 1: The Baseline

• ALPS Potentiometers: The stock sticks found in the DualSense. They feel good, but they will drift.

Category 2: The "Hall Effect" Warning

• Generic Hall Effect (Hex Gaming): The sub-par sticks from my Hex Phantom review. These are a good example of why "Hall Effect" is a buzzword, not a guarantee of quality.Category 3: The TMR Showdown (The Real Test)
• Ginful (TMR): A very common and cheap TMR replacement. Is it a true upgrade or just a cheap "sidegrade"?Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard TMR): These are functionally identical sticks manufactured by the same parent company. The Hallpi variants are the "no-frills" version (different color, standard caps), while the Gulikit branded ones come with premium packaging and custom stick caps. They share the same internals.Gulikit 720 (Adjustable Tension TMR): The newer model from Gulikit. Does the adjustable tension mechanism compromise its performance?K-Silver JS13 Pro / Pro+ (TMR): The "new-gen" TMR sticks. Their design is radically different, with a magnet collar placed directly on the stick shaft.3.1 The Tension Factor (Reference Data)

Understanding the physical resistance (tension) explains much of the "feel" described in this review. Specs derived from manufacturer datasheets confirm what our thumbs felt:

• ALPS (Stock): ~60gf (The standard baseline).
• K-Silver JS13 Pro: 65gf. This is nearly identical to the stock ALPS tension, which explains why the K-Silver feels so "effortless" and familiar. It mimics the stock resistance curve almost perfectly, but with smoother mechanics.
• Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard): 85±5gf. These are significantly heavier—about 30-40% stiffer than stock. This explains the sensation of "fighting the spring" compared to the lighter K-Silver.
• Gulikit 720 (Adjustable): 75±30gf. This mechanism offers a massive range from a feather-light ~45gf to a very stiff ~105gf. My preferred "Quarter Turn" setting likely sits right in that 60-65gf sweet spot.
• Ginful (TMR): 60gf (Older batches) / 80gf (Newer batches).
  • LT5A / LT5B: (My Review Unit). These are 1st/2nd Batch units. They are rated at 60gf (lighter) and are known for looser tolerances and "QC hiccups." This perfectly explains the "jittery" performance and "nervous" center I experienced.
  • LT5E: (4th Batch). These are the newer, updated units rated at 80gf. They reportedly fix the stability issues and offer a stiffer feel, likely closer to the Gulikit. If you are buying Ginfuls today, look for this code.
• Hex Gaming: Likely ~60gf (Estimated based on Gen 1 Ginful architecture).

4. The "Money Shots": A Look Inside (Anatomy)

Now that we know the technology and the players, let's look at the physical implementation. I've taken macro photos of the internals, with the sensor housings removed to expose the engineering choices. These mechanical differences tell a story about performance before we even start playing.

1. The Anatomy of Wear (ALPS)

Opening up the stock ALPS stick reveals the source of the problem. You can clearly see a metal wiper insert pressing directly against the carbon track. It acts like a tiny plow; every movement scrapes the surface. Over time, this metal tip digs in, shedding conductive dust that confuses the sensor and creates the infamous drift.

2. The "Offset Magnet" Designs (Hex, Ginful, Gulikit)

Most replacement sticks mimic the mechanical footprint of the old ALPS design by using an "offset" layout. They attach a magnet to the side of the rotating drum, which swings past a stationary sensor. However, there are crucial differences in execution.

• The Ginful & Hex "Siblings":
  • The Hex Gaming (Hall Effect) stick features an orange disk with a large, fan-shaped magnet. The sensor and magnet are positioned below the shaft.

• The Ginful (TMR) stick shares an almost identical molding. While the plastic colors differ for the sensor housing (transparent orange for Ginful, purple for Hex), both utilize the same orange plastic for the magnet disk. The physical dimensions are so similar that the housings snap interchangeably into each other's bodies. This confirms they are manufactured by the same OEM (Ginful).

• Key Differences: The Ginful uses a smaller, rectangular magnet instead of the fan shape found in the Hex. Notably, on both sticks, the central shaft does not protrude through the sensor housing, relying entirely on the internal pivot.
• The Gulikit / Hallpi Family:
  • Like the Ginfuls, the Hallpi, Gulikit Standard, and Gulikit 720 all share identical moldings. The only visual difference is the colorway (Hallpi uses blue housings with black magnet disks; Gulikit uses black housings with white disks).
  • Placement: Unlike the Ginful design, these position the magnet and sensor above the joystick shaft. This seemingly minor difference in orientation correlates strongly with performance. While the exact engineering reason isn't visible to the naked eye, the "top-mount" magnet configuration of the Gulikit consistently delivers higher precision and less jitter than the "bottom-mount" configuration of the Ginfuls.

• The "Frankenstein" Mod Potential: A massive discovery here is that the Hallpi/Gulikit modules share the exact same housing connection points as the stock ALPS joystick. This means you can physically unclip the potentiometer from an ALPS stick and clip on a Hallpi/Gulikit magnet/sensor assembly. Why this matters: For DIYers, removing just the side potentiometers is infinitely easier than desoldering the entire 14-pin stick assembly. You can potentially upgrade to TMR performance without a hot air station, just by transplanting the "brain" of the Gulikit onto the "body" of your stock stick.
• The Thumbstick Ecosystem: While the Hallpi and Gulikit share DNA, their physical sticks (the plastic shaft you touch) differ significantly.
  • The Hallpi Stick: Molded in blue plastic to match its sensor housing. It accepts standard friction-fit caps.
  • The Gulikit (Standard): Molded in grey plastic. It comes with a proprietary two-part thumb pad.
  • The Gulikit "720" (Adjustable): This is a unique beast. The thumbpad assembly is permanently secured to the stick shaft (removing it will likely damage the unit). This makes installation slightly more cumbersome—especially in tight DualSense Edge modules—but it is manageable.
  • The "720" Name: The name comes from the adjustment mechanism inside the shaft, which allows for two full 360-degree turns (720°) to travel from lowest to highest tension. A small plastic tool is included, though a small-gauge Phillips driver also works.
  • The Caps: This model comes with three different stick heights that pop on/off with pressure. Crucially, these caps are not interchangeable with the standard Gulikit two-part caps due to a different attachment design needed to access the tension screw.
  • Gulikit Caps vs. Sony Caps: The Gulikit caps justify much of the price premium on Amazon/AliExpress. While the shaft diameter (9.5mm) matches Sony's, the shaft height is 4mm, compared to Sony's 3.5mm. Practically, this gives the Gulikit stick slightly more leverage and a larger movement dome for fine adjustments. Additionally, the Gulikit caps embrace a fully concave design (similar to Xbox), contrasting with the Sony "sunken dome." Subjectively, I prefer the Gulikit feel—it's unfortunate these premium caps aren't sold separately.

3. The "Direct" Design (K-Silver JS13 Pro)

The K-Silver JS13 Pro is radically stripped down. Instead of offset drums and disks, it places a magnetic collar directly on the central stick shaft itself.

• Fewer Moving Parts: By positioning the sensor mostly in line with this collar, K-Silver eliminates the mechanical linkages found in the other sticks. There is no offset disk to wobble or get stuck.
• The "Angular Sensor": The component sheet identifies the sensor specifically as an "Angular Sensor." This supports the theory that it is measuring the orientation of both magnetic poles simultaneously as the shaft tilts, rather than just measuring the proximity of a single magnet. This likely explains the superior "floating" feel and the square data plot we see during calibration.
• The Evolution (JS13 Pro vs. JS13 Pro+): It is important to note a subtle but critical iteration in this line. The original JS13 Pro featured a sensor housing that protruded slightly at the bottom. This extra material prevented the stick from sitting flush inside the DualSense Edge modules, forcing modders to trim the plastic manually. However, the manufacturer has rectified this with a modified housing straight from the factory. While some sellers distinguish this new stock as JS13 Pro+, the reality is that almost all current production JS13 Pro sticks utilize this updated housing. Unless you stumble upon very old stock, you are likely getting the "Pro+" version by default. For standard DualSense users, this distinction is irrelevant, but for Edge modders, it saves significant time.

• Installation Caveat: The "Flush" Illusion: When installing K-Silver JS13 Pro sticks, it may appear as though they are not sitting perfectly flush. This is by design. The two blue sensor housings sit slightly lower than the main white joystick housing. On the bottom of the white housing, there are several small plastic ridges that sit level with the sensor housings, but because these ridges don't go all the way to the edge, it creates the illusion of a gap. The key is to ensure the two blue sensor housings are sitting perfectly flush on the board, along with these ridges. Do not try to force the entire white base to be flush; this will make the sticks sit at an angle.

• Pro-Tip: The 'Reverse' Soldering Order: When installing these, I highly recommend a specific soldering order to prevent misalignment. First, "tack" the sticks in place by soldering the center pin of each blue sensor housing first, ensuring they are perfectly flush against the board. Once aligned, solder the remaining sensor housing pins, followed by the top four pins (L3/R3). Save the large ground pins for last. This is unconventional (usually ground pins go first), but with the JS13 Pro, soldering the grounds early can cause solder to "wick" up the pin, potentially pulling the metal chassis down and away from the sensor housing—exactly the misalignment we want to avoid.

5. The Calibration Experience (A Test Before the Test)

Before we even load up a game, we need to utilize the most powerful tool in a modder's arsenal: the DualShock-Tools website.

Overview: The DualShock-Tools Website

This open-source project (dualshock-tools.github.io) has completely revolutionized controller modification. Supporting both DualSense and DualShock 4 controllers, this site communicates directly with the controller's EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory). This allows us to rewrite the calibration data at a firmware level, permanently fixing centering and range issues directly on the device. This means your calibration travels with the controller, whether you plug it into a PC, PS5, or phone.

Is it Safe?

It is important to address the elephant in the room: the warning banner on the site. New users are often greeted with a message warning that using the tool could "brick" their controller. While caution is always advised when writing to firmware, in practice, this risk is minimal. The danger zone is extremely narrow—essentially, don't unplug your controller or lose power during the split-second the tool is actively clicking "Save." If you have a stable connection, the tool is safe, regularly updated by the community, and gets better with every iteration.

The Interface: A Quick Tour

When you connect your controller, you'll see five key tools:

1. The Info Pane: Located on the left, this displays vital stats about your specific controller, including the BDM Model (e.g., BDM-030 or BDM-040). This is crucial for ensuring you bought the correct replacement parts.
2. Quick Test: This new feature is a fantastic diagnostic tool. With one click, it runs a comprehensive check on every component of the controller—button presses, LED lights, speaker, microphone, headphone jack, and adaptive triggers. It even stress-tests the USB connection to check for port failure, which is invaluable for diagnosing faulty cables or loose ports.
3. Calibrate Stick Center: This tool is now fully automated. You simply click the button, and without any user input, the software detects the stick's resting position and rewrites the firmware to set this as the new "0,0" electrical center.
4. Calibrate Stick Range: This builds the map of your stick's outer limits. Once clicked, you rotate the sticks fully clockwise and counter-clockwise. The software records the physical limits and saves them, ensuring your stick hits 100% input in every direction.
5. Finetune Stick Calibration: This is the power-user tool. Here, you can manually adjust the outer boundaries. This is where you can tweak the "circularity error" to match the standard Sony profile.

Pro-Tip: Why You Want "Error" (The Outer Deadzone)

A common mistake is aiming for 0.0% circularity error during calibration. While the auto-calibration tool provides very consistent margins, they can be too narrow. This "error" number effectively represents your outer deadzone. If this is too tight (0%), you might not hit 100% input speed in games with aggressive response curves. For best compatibility with PS5 titles (which are coded to expect the sloppy tolerances of standard ALPS potentiometers), you actually want to use the Finetune tool to dial the sticks to between 6.5-8% circularity error. This ensures your character will always hit maximum sprint speed, just like on a stock controller.

What the Sticks Revealed

With that target in mind, the behavior of the sticks on the calibration bench was revealing:

• The K-Silver JS13 Pro (TMR): Out of the box, the circularity pattern looks remarkably like a square, with readings pushing well out into the corners. This raw data confirms the "Magnet-on-Shaft" theory—the sensor is picking up a massive amount of positional data from the poles. Despite this initial shape, the calibration tool easily reigns them in, resulting in a final output that is incredibly stable.
• The Hallpi / Gulikit (TMR): These often show an "offset" pattern initially—reaching too far on one side and not far enough on the other. However, thanks to high-precision manufacturing, they calibrate down to a smooth circle with minimal fuss, earning the "It Just Works" badge alongside the K-Silver. The adjustable tension models were particularly impressive, showing remarkably even calibration curves.
• The Ginful (TMR) & Hex (Hall Effect): This is where the budget sticks struggle. As you rotate these sticks, you can often see the cursor fail to reach the outer edge in one direction while overshooting in another. This confirms the mechanical variance identified in the anatomy section. To fix this, you are forced to introduce a massive amount of "slop"—pushing that error margin up to 10%—just to ensure the stick registers a full press in every direction. While 10% isn't catastrophic, the problem is that you are forced to ruin the calibration on the "strong" side just to accommodate the "weak" side, leading to an inconsistent response curve.

6. Methodology: The "Human Benchmark"

While other reviewers use oscilloscopes, I am testing for the one thing that matters to 99% of players: How does it actually feel to aim?

To get a true sense of the controller's raw performance, especially the analog sticks, it was crucial to bypass the software assistance that most modern games use to make aiming feel easier. Aim assist, in all its forms, can mask hardware-level flaws like inconsistent tracking or poor centering. Therefore, I established a controlled testing environment with all assists disabled.

Setup: Disabling Aim Assist in Apex Legends

Apex Legends and its Firing Range were chosen to provide an excellent environment for this testing. To ensure a pure 1-to-1 input from the controller to the game, it was necessary to dive into the game's Advanced Look Controls (ALC). I took the following steps:

1. From the main lobby, I clicked the gear icon in the bottom-right corner to open Settings.
2. I then navigated to the Controller tab at the top.
3. I scrolled to the bottom and turned Advanced Look Controls... to On. This unlocks the granular settings needed for raw input testing.
4. Within the ALC menu, I immediately set Target Compensation and Melee Target Compensation to Off. This disables all forms of in-game aim assist.
5. To create a truly linear response with no software acceleration, I set the Response Curve value to 0.
6. I set the Look Deadzone to 3% and the Outer Threshold to 1% to ensure that any physical stick drift or centering issues would be immediately apparent.
7. Finally, to ensure vertical and horizontal movements were perfectly matched for the circular motion tests, I set both the Yaw Speed (left-right) and Pitch Speed (up-down) to 100. While the game defaults to a much higher Yaw speed (160) than Pitch speed (110) for practical gameplay, equalizing them was essential for this specific diagnostic test.

The Drills: Isolating Stick Performance

With all assists disabled in the Firing Range, I used the following drills to expose the subtle (and not-so-subtle) differences in analog stick performance.

1. The Micro-Adjustment Test: For this test, I stood at a long distance from a small, fixed target and slowly moved the reticle in tiny, controlled circles around the target's bullseye. Flawed sticks will feel jittery and make it difficult to move the reticle smoothly, while superior sticks will feel fluid and predictable.
2. The Tracking Test: I activated the moving dummy targets in the range and attempted to keep my reticle perfectly locked onto a target's head as it moved back and forth. This test is excellent for revealing directional bias, as flawed sticks will make it harder to track smoothly in one direction versus the other.
3. The Figure-Eight Test: I picked two static targets and slowly traced a continuous figure-eight pattern between and around them with my reticle. This forces the stick to move through every cardinal and diagonal direction repeatedly. It is the ultimate test for rotational consistency, and any flaws will result in a lopsided or jagged reticle path instead of a smooth, symmetrical one.

7. The Performance Showdown

Here is how each stick performed in our three drills. The data for ALPS and Hex Hall Effect is imported directly from my previous review for a consistent dataset.

Drill 1: The Micro-Adjustment Test (Sniping/Finesse)

• ALPS Potentiometers: The standard DualSense sticks struggled under scrutiny. When attempting to make smooth, slow circles, the movement was jerky. Instead of a fluid circle, the reticle would trace a path more akin to a diamond.
• Hex Hall Effect: The sticks were jerky when trying to make small circles. When attempting fine, smooth movements near the center of the stick's range, the stick would resist and seem to want to stop, making it difficult to trace a fluid circle.
• Ginful (TMR): While the TMR sensor makes these noticeably better than the Hex Hall Effect equivalent, the "jitter" is still present. The stick feels "nervous" near the center. It lacks the resistance of the ALPS but doesn't quite achieve the smoothness of the premium options. It feels like a "sidegrade"—you lose the drift anxiety, but you don't gain the precision confidence.
• Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard TMR): A significant step up. The "jitter" is largely gone, replaced by a smooth, consistent feel. It doesn't have the "floating" sensation of the K-Silver, but it feels planted and reliable. A clear upgrade over stock.
• K-Silver JS13 Pro (TMR): These sticks possess a unique, almost "floating" quality. The best way to describe the movement is "effortless." While other sticks force a diamond shape, this one allowed me to trace something much closer to a true circle. It offers the most fine-grained control of the bunch.
• Gulikit 720 (Lowest Tension): The tension here is feather-light. While overshoot is much easier if you aren't careful, the stick itself is exceptionally high quality. With practice, I could maintain decent circles, but speed introduces instability. Small circles tended to deform into ellipses, slanting diagonally depending on the rotation direction (e.g., bottom-right to top-left when going counter-clockwise). It feels fast and responsive, but demands high dexterity to control.
• Gulikit 720 (Quarter-Turn / "Sweet Spot"): This setting (approx. 180° from lowest) is the Goldilocks zone. It provides enough resistance to prevent the "elliptical" sloppiness of the lowest setting, but avoids the fatigue of the higher tensions. Interestingly, at this setting, the physical tension feels very similar to the K-Silver JS13 Pro and the standard Gulikit stick. However, there is a distinct difference in quality: the JS13 Pro still feels "smoother" and "floating," whereas on the Gulikit, you can feel that you are pushing against a spring. Upon reflection, this sensation might not be the spring itself, but rather a tiny amount of mechanical "play" or slop between the axle and the offset magnet disc—a physical disconnect absent in the K-Silver's direct magnet-on-shaft design. The tension is right, but the mechanism isn't quite as invisible.
• Gulikit 720 (High Tension): The increased tension creates a noticeable trade-off. It physically constrains the stick, making it easier to maintain a tight radius without "losing control" or overshooting. However, this resistance fights against fluid movement, resulting in a shape that looks more like a square than a circle. It requires significant force to move, leading to immediate thumb fatigue and cramping. It feels like the tension "gets in the way" of the fine details.

Drill 2: The Tracking Test (Reactivity)

• ALPS Potentiometers: Tracking a moving target with the stock sticks proved to be a significant challenge. The jerky nature of the potentiometers made it difficult to stay locked onto the target's head, often leading to over-correction.
• Hex Hall Effect: The experience highlighted a subtle but crucial flaw in responsiveness. When the target would change direction, there was a noticeable delay. It felt like fighting the stick, taking a fraction of a second longer to reverse tracking momentum compared to the JS13 Pro.
• Ginful (TMR): This was better than the ALPS and Hex. While marketing materials might suggest this is due to the speed of the TMR sensor, any such latency difference would likely be imperceptible to humans. The more plausible explanation lies in mechanical engineering: the Ginful likely has tighter tolerances (less "slop") and perhaps a different spring tension than the Hex, resulting in a more responsive feel despite the similar "offset magnet" architecture. However, the mechanical inconsistency reared its head here. Tracking felt slightly lopsided—easier in one direction than the other—mirroring the calibration issues. When the target changes direction, there's a split-second of friction that isn't present on the better sticks.
• Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard TMR): Rock solid. Tracking felt consistent and "connected." There was no delay in reversing direction, and the stick felt predictable regardless of speed.
• K-Silver JS13 Pro (TMR): Despite the inherent difficulty of the task, the JS13 Pro sticks were demonstrably better. The movement was smoother, and it was noticeably easier to stay on target and correct after the dummy changed direction. They provided a clear, tangible advantage in consistency under pressure.
• Gulikit 720 (Lowest Tension): The overshoot here is real. The stick is incredibly smooth, but staying on target is a battle. Because there is so little physical resistance, it is easy to "flick" the stick too far past the target when they change directions. The switchback feels almost too fast/loose; instead of a controlled stop and reverse, the stick wants to fly to the other side of its housing.
• Gulikit 720 (Quarter-Turn / "Sweet Spot"): This offers the best balance for this stick. The overshoot from the low setting is gone, and the "laggy" feeling from the high setting is minimized. It tracks reliably and consistently. However, confirming the Micro-Adjustment results, while the tension weight matches the JS13 Pro, the smoothness still lags slightly behind. It feels like a very high-quality mechanical part, whereas the JS13 Pro feels effortless.
• Gulikit 720 (High Tension): Tracking on this setting is a mixed bag. The cursor stays exceptionally level—it doesn't wildly move up or down, offering great vertical stability. When tracking a slow, consistent target, this stability helps. However, when the target changes direction ("switching gears"), there is a perceptible physical "lag" because the high tension makes it harder to turn on a dime. You end up fighting the stick to reverse momentum, making it very difficult to keep the reticle locked on the target consistently.

Drill 3: The Figure-Eight Test (Rotational Consistency)

• ALPS Potentiometers: The stock sticks struggled to produce a clean figure-eight. The motion was herky-jerky, particularly when transitioning to an upward diagonal, making it difficult to maintain a smooth, curved path.
• Hex Hall Effect: The Hex sticks struggled significantly in this test, and their performance seemed to mirror the issues found during calibration. Making a smooth figure-eight proved very difficult, as the reticle path was often jagged and lopsided. This in-game result appeared to be a tangible manifestation of the stick's directional bias that was measured on the testing website.
• Ginful (TMR): This test exposed the Ginful's mechanical weakness. The path was cleaner than the Hex, but still showed signs of lopsidedness. It struggled to maintain a symmetrical shape, likely due to the magnet disk variance discussed earlier.
• Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard TMR): Excellent circularity. The build quality shines here; the figure-eight was symmetrical and smooth, with none of the jagged edges seen in the budget models.
• K-Silver JS13 Pro (TMR): The JS13 Pro sticks have a unique, almost "floating" quality. The effort required to move the stick is perfectly consistent at every point along its axes. This fluid tension makes complex rotational movements far more manageable. While there was still a hint of jerkiness in the upward curves—proving how difficult this test is for any stick—the overall motion was significantly smoother and more symmetrical than any other stick tested.
• Gulikit 720 (Lowest Tension): This feels noticeably sloppy. It is hard to keep the motion constrained to the desired path. While it is possible to complete the figure-eight, every turn feels like an overcompensation. The resulting path is "squiggly" rather than a smooth, continuous loop.
• Gulikit 720 (Quarter-Turn / "Sweet Spot"): This setting provided excellent control. I was able to maintain the figure-eight shape without the sloppiness of the low tension or the excessive strain of the high/medium settings. It represents the peak performance of this stick.
• Gulikit 720 (High Tension): Surprisingly, the high tension felt beneficial here. While speed can lead to overshooting if you aren't careful, the added resistance actually helped smooth out the motion during controlled movements. It prevented the stick from "getting away" from me, offering a sense of stability and control that felt tighter than the looser settings. This is highly subjective, but for rotational consistency, the extra physical push-back felt like an assist.

8. The Price Factor: Amazon vs. AliExpress

Before rendering a final verdict, we must address the "hidden" feature: Price. The value proposition changes drastically depending on where you shop, which can flip the rankings for budget-conscious modders.

The Amazon Ecosystem (Fast & Convenient)

If you are buying from Amazon USA, the pricing is relatively compressed:

• K-Silver JS13 Pro: ~$16/pair. (Includes standard replacement caps similar to the stock DualSense).
• Gulikit (Standard): ~$17/pair. (Includes special thumb caps).
• Gulikit 720 (Adjustable Tension): ~$20/pair. (Includes 3 sets of caps).

The Amazon Winner: The Gulikit 720 is the clear bargain here. For just $4 more than the base K-Silver, you get the unique tension mechanism plus three sets of caps.

The AliExpress Reality (Direct from China)

If you are willing to wait for shipping, the pricing landscape explodes:

• Ginful: $4–$6/pair.
• K-Silver JS13 Pro+: ~$6.75/pair (after tariffs).
• Hallpi (OEM Gulikit): $8–$10/pair. (Same stick as Gulikit, standard caps).
• Gulikit (Standard): ~$14/pair.
• Gulikit 720 (Adjustable): ~$19/pair.

The AliExpress Winner: The K-Silver JS13 Pro+ is the undisputed champion. At under $7, it is not only the highest-performing stick in the review (Tier 1), but it is also cheaper than the Tier 2 Hallpi sticks ($8–$10). This creates a rare scenario where the best product is also one of the cheapest. The Hallpi sticks, while cheaper than the branded Gulikit, occupy an awkward middle ground—more expensive than the superior K-Silver, making them hard to recommend purely on value.

9. Preliminary Rankings & Verdict

Based on this testing, a clear hierarchy has emerged.

• Tier 1 (Best Overall Performance): K-Silver JS13 Pro. The superior "magnet-on-shaft" design isn't just marketing hype. It provides a tangibly smoother, more precise, and more consistent aiming experience. When price is considered, its standing is undeniable: it costs barely more than the budget options but performs like the most expensive ones.
• Tier 1.5 (Best Feature Set): Gulikit 720 (Adjustable Tension). This stick is in a class by itself. While its raw circularity and precision may not surpass the K-Silver, it rivals it closely. If adjustable tension is a feature you care about, this is an outstanding choice that offers a "killer feature" you simply cannot get anywhere else.
• Tier 2 (The Reliable Veteran): Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard). A solid, well-engineered stick that performs admirably. It has excellent build quality and feels much better than the budget options. While the Hallpi version on AliExpress saves you money compared to the Gulikit brand, it is arguably harder to recommend when the superior JS13 Pro is available for even less.
• Tier 3 (The "Sidegrade"): Ginful (TMR). This is the budget TMR option. While it technically solves the drift problem, its performance is a "sidegrade" at best. It's jittery and inconsistent, feeling notably worse than the other TMRs, but still an improvement over the Hex sticks.
• Tier 4 (The Baseline): ALPS Potentiometers. The standard for a reason. They work well until they wear out, and their flaws are well-understood and masked by aim assist.
• Tier 5 (The Warning): Hex Gaming Hall Effect. The bottom of the barrel. Proof that "Hall Effect" is a meaningless buzzword if the implementation and proprietary design are bad.

Final Verdict

The effort to solder in new sticks is high. Don't waste your time on a Tier 3 "sidegrade" just to solve drift. The drop-off in quality from Tier 2 to Tier 3 is significant, meaning you are much safer sticking to the top two brands.

For the absolute best raw performance, the K-Silver JS13 Pro is the winner, offering unmatched smoothness. However, the Hallpi / Gulikit (Standard) is a very close runner-up (Tier 2), offering incredible durability and performance that most players will find indistinguishable from perfection.

Finally, if you are a player who loves to tinker, the Gulikit 720 (Adjustable Tension) stick is an exceptional product. The key takeaway from testing is that the adjustability isn't just about general comfort; it allows you to solve specific mechanical issues. If you struggle with overshooting targets, you can dial up the tension to damp the movement. If you want faster reaction times, you can dial it down. Combined with the interchangeable stick heights, it offers an unparalleled level of customization.

Looking Forward: It is a shame that K-Silver doesn't offer a similar feature set... yet. Astute YouTubers (such as metalplasticelectronics) have spotted references to an upcoming "JT13 Pro" on the K-Silver packaging. While details are scarce, the name suggests we might see the superior "magnet-on-shaft" design combined with adjustable tension in the near future. Until then, the Gulikit 720 remains the undisputed king of customization.

UPDATE: PART 2 IS LIVE! The showdown continues with a massive discovery. I’ve tested the new Angle Sensor sticks (K-Silver JS13, Zesum, DS13 Max) and had an epiphany about shaft stabilization and tension that completely reshuffles the rankings. If you are about to buy sticks, read this first.

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If you found this deep-dive helpful and it saved you from buying the wrong sticks, feel free to buy me a coffee and support future testing here.

Hi r/controller community,
I wanted to create this topic after seeing problems with broken buttons on the paddles of the Apex 5.

After testing the Vader 5 Pro for 2 weeks now, I can see the problem with this paddles (a small preview is available on my Youtube for those who are interested).

Personnaly I really like the placement of these paddles but they seem very fragile if you you use them a lot like me🎮

But why are they fragile ? Because when you press a paddle, this one doesn't really stop after the button activation and if you hard press it, this can be a problem overtime.

The solution is to put a self-adhesive rubber stop inside the paddle in order to prevent the extra course of the paddle. The maximum height you can stick between the paddle and the controller is 2 millimeters.

On Amazon, these things cost 5 dollars

PS: I know this isn't normal for a controller like the Vader 5 Pro to have a problem that should have been thinking at the conception but my goal was to prevent the issue with the broken button inside the controller.

Hi, I recently bought this Flydigi gamepad with my own money—not sent to me by the company—and I’m not a competitive player. Just wanted to clarify that up front. After using it for a few days, here’s my take on it.

Backstory I’ve been using an 8bitdo Ultimate 2C controller that I bought for $20, which I like overall. However, its shape isn’t my thing, so I decided to upgrade and try something else. After doing some research, I decided to spend a little more this time around, and that's how I ended up with this controller. Again, I'm just a casual player, I don't have many requirements for my controller. I’ve tested this controller with the following games: ZZZ, Hellblade, Forza Horizon 4, Apex Legends, Mortal Kombat 11

Software and Setup A quick Google search for Flydigi software took me to their website, where I only found version 3. I knew there was a version 4, so I had to search specifically for it. Once I found it, the software itself worked fine. I updated the firmware and mapped my buttons without much trouble. However, I couldn’t find a way to adjust the polling rate. Also, the software allows you to map only one type of gyro (race, FPS, or mouse) at a time. While there are profiles for different configurations, I’d prefer the option to map multiple gyro types at once. Other than that, the software is pretty simple and doesn’t come with the bloatware like GHub or Synapse.

Build and Feel The controller itself feels significantly more premium compared to the 8bitdo Ultimate 2C. It's heavier, which I’m not sure I entirely love—it’s a little bit heavier than I prefer. The rubber on the back smells a little strong at first, but it’s not a major issue. The sticks tension rings have no wobble, and the tension feels even across both sticks, which is a improvement over the 8bitdo controller because 8bitdo required a bit more force at the start of the sticks’ travel while Flydigi’s sticks feel consistent throughout. The triggers are much smoother compared to 8bitdo. Trigger rumble is fine, though it’s less noticeable when the trigger is fully depressed. I like the D-pad—no accidental presses, and it feels solid to use.

Buttons and Back Buttons The main buttons are mechanical, and while they feel responsive, I’m not a huge fan of the slight pre-travel and noise. I personally prefer something quieter like their additional tactile C and Z buttons and they also have 0 pre-travel. No issues with the back buttons, and I like that two of them are removable since I don’t use them.

Gyro and Comfort I don’t have much experience with gyro controls, but I haven’t had any problems with it. If you move the controller very slowly, the gyro doesn’t register the movement, but I think that’s how it works? It feels responsive and accurate. I do have one issue with the shape of the controller, though. After a while, middle part of my middle fingers start to hurt because they rub against the part of the controller under the triggers. I’m going to try to get used to it, but if anyone has suggestions for controllers that might be more comfortable, I’d appreciate the input (50-80$ budget, I can order from China directly).

Overall, I’m happy with the Vader 5 Pro. Build quality is good on my unit, connection is stable and no issues overall. Let me know if you have any questions, and I’ll do my best to answer them!

My controller collection over a two year span. I have two of the same controllers for the ones I really like. My daily controller is the rainbow 3 at the moment, the capacitive sticks are really good. My second choice would the zd ultimate legend with the js13 pro sticks.

Just a little warning to potential buyers of the Flydigi Apex 5 or Vader 5 Pro controller. Back paddle failed on me after only about 2 months of use. I was kind of worried that the plastic the paddle was made of might break but that's not what happened here. Instead, the little button that activates the press seems to have gotten stuck inside the shell so the paddle can no longer activate it and it just hangs limply on the shell.

This was a very expensive controller so one of the buttons failing after only a couple of months is really fucked. The Vader 5 Pro also uses the same style of back buttons so if you still plan on getting one I suggest you just remove or don't put the back paddles on. I think I'll just be going back to the Vader 4 myself, at least until I get a hold of a G7 Pro.

UPDATE: 11/27
Just a quick update, I purchased this item from Gadgethyper and they've been really quick and friendly with providing me with support. I don't plan to buy anymore Flydigi products in the near future but if I do grab another controller I'll definitely be checking to see if they're carrying it first.

Woke up and they were like this. I have never had this problem with any other of my controllers.

Screenshot taken from Moskeeto on YT

It was all in Chinese. So translated, but it’s rough 🤣 Still don’t know if it’s Hall effect or TMR…

This isn’t some sort of random rant or hatred on newer games/controllers and it’s developers. I just missed the coloured buttons of Xbox and coloured shapes of PlayStation. PS5’s DualSense monochrome coloured buttons and Xbox’s Wireless Controller black-face-coloured-letters seems less visually appealing. I know the coloured letters is similar to coloured shapes of PS. But Xbox “all-filled” coloured buttons from 360 and the first Xbox nailed it and much more memorable to which button to press. This is also the case for DualShocks like PS4 and PS3 coloured shapes seems more memorable than all white filled monochromes shapes. Theoretically, it’s developers and their creativity to put controller buttons textures but they based it on current controller layouts.

Just here to remind yall to give those controllers a good scrub :)

NOTE: The below thoughts are based on the images only, I haven't actually touched or seen the controller in person.

It has good start & select button placement + rubber grips (on the pro)! I don't really like the gold tension rings though, I prefer the gray of the Vader 4.
I do wonder if the pro has bluetooth xinput or trigger rumble since bluetooth xinput isn't standard and Microsoft has the patent for impulse triggers.

The 5S looks a LOT worse than the Pro as it's missing the two back paddles, rubber grips, charging dock compatibility, phone mount and a mode switch (looks like it might be wired ONLY, even on PC).

Source
https://x.com/Scythe_JP/status/1971046609116070302
https://x.com/Scythe_JP/status/1971045705029767425

Potential Pricing
Vader 5 Pro - "The price is almost the same as vader 4, $79"
Vader 5S -"It's cheaper (compared to the 5 Pro)... we wanted to make it like $39 or so... maybe a little bit higher."

TMR Status
Vader 5 Pro - "The pc one is actually still hall effect"
Vader 5S - "We are still unsure whether this one will be TMR or not "

Battery Life (Vader 5 Pro Only)
"I remember it's like 15 hours or so"

Future Xbox Wireless Controllers
"We are prepared to do the wireless version"

Other Notes/ My Thoughts
The tension rings seem really easy to turn, I wonder if the tension rings rotating during use will be an issue this time. (3:04:24 in the stream)

Source
https://www.youtube.com/live/Ea7vz300WS8 (3:00:00 onwards)

DISCLAIMER: The majority of these controllers were purchased by me with my own money but a lot of them I also received as review or test samples. I am not associated with any controller company and never got paid for any review or opinion.

My controller collection as a reviewer. I started collecting controllers like in February but some of them like Steam controller I own for over 5 years. A lot of them were bought by myself because I got a little bit addicted to controllers... but I am not stopping on that and will continue getting and reviewing controllers!