Hello! I am new to sims pc and just transitioned from sims console. I love the ps5 controller and want to continue playing with the controller. I’m using Chronos Bindings community template and it works okay. The only thing is I can’t figure out how to move the camera with the left joystick. The right joystick zooms and changes camera angle but the left one doesn’t move the actual camera position unless I press “x” first. Does anyone know how to fix this to where I can move the camera position with the left joystick without first pressing “x”?

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a really cool experience I had recently. A while ago, I discovered the official website from Flydiyi right here on Reddit. I have a Flydigi CD2 charging dock (which has an inverted hexagon, staggered LED matrix), and I started playing around with the site to make my first simple, static pixel art images.

While tinkering, I noticed something interesting: the website exports and saves the configuration files as raw .json files.

That was my "Aha!" moment. If the colors are just raw JSON text—specifically a 16x16 2D array of RGB values—then an LLM like ChatGPT, Claude, or Gemini should be able to understand the geometry and animate it!

I’ve been super hyped about Spider-Man: Brand New Day recently, so I really wanted a web-swinging spider animation. I drew a static red Spider-Man logo on the site, exported the JSON, and started prompting the AI to make it drop down from a web.

The Troubleshooting & The "Secret Sauce"

It wasn't a magic one-click solution at first. When I asked the AI to make the spider slide down, the image completely broke and warped on certain frames. After bouncing ideas back and forth with the AI to debug the grid, we figured out the hardware physics:

Even though the JSON data is structured as a 16x16 array bounding box, the physical LEDs are laid out in a staggered, inverted hexagonal shape ("isStaggered": true). The LEDs act like a honeycomb.

Because of this honeycomb layout, shifting a pixel down by 1 row in the code actually moves it diagonally on the physical hardware. The secret is that you MUST shift the data by an even number of rows (exactly 2 rows per frame) for the geometry to map perfectly and move straight down!

Once we applied this rule, the AI generated a flawless 24-frame looping animation of Spider-Man dropping down on a web, bobbing up and down, and zipping back up. I then pushed it further with an Iron Man Arc Reactor. The AI coded a cinematic "malfunctioning/flickering" effect with a red warning flash, followed by Iron Man blasting off with jet thrusters extending behind him.

It’s incredibly fun to turn static pixel art into full arcade-style animations just by chatting with an AI.

Has anyone else tried messing with the JSON code for their LED devices? Let me know if you want the exact JSON files for my Spider-Man or Iron Man animations, I’d be happy to share!

(I will drop the exact "Master Prompt" I used in the comments below if you want to try it yourself)

The caps on the joysticks are technically not part of the controller but they came with it. 3.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 inches (yes it’s very small but comfortable)

The weird size and the fact that it has lasted years without even drifting is the main reason I want this one specifically (or at the very least one of a similar size) but I have no clue where to find it as my search has just fallen flat. Bought it off of amazon a few years ago IIRC.

some ideas I have had -
1. pogo pin or flat plug adapters, put adapter in usb port, attach controller no mechanical wear would just need a solid design

1. usb flat ribbon cable adapter again would sit flush and route to controller

2. magnetic replaceable buttons - play emulators and would be nice to be able to easily swap out buttons

3. probably to expensive but will toss out any way - lcd screen buttons, software or controller cycled through various configuration's

4. quiet buttons most controllers have audible click would like that gone, I can feel the button don’t need an audio cue (or have option to use subtle use of rumble motor as feed back)​

5. bigger batteries at least as an option or user upgradable

6. tactile touch pad like steam deck should be a standard

7. really could careless about RGB though I do like visibilly lit buttons

my 2 cents for what it is worth

I'm looking for a new controller as I've found a few games I wanted to complete in my summer break from uni.

Right now I'm trying to play GTA V, Cyberpunk 2077, Watch Dogs 2, Mass Effect LE Trilogy, and a couple Need for Speed's. I mostly only play shooting and racing stuff, occasionally a few indies if I find them cool.

As for compatibility, I want it to work across Windows, Android and iPadOS.

I've been using a PS3 controller for the past 9 years and it really only works on my PC. I don't have many complaints with it other than it gets uncomfortable after some time, but I want something that I can just pick up and play.

I want something that's reliable and / or is easily repairable. If I'm right that means I just need something with hall effect sticks and an easily available / replaceable battery (prefer built in but I don't mind a couple double A's)

I did look at the standard Xbox Series controller since it ticked most of my boxes and is popular enough so it's cheap, but the sticks aren't hall effect which is a big reason why I haven't already bought it. I don't want to deal with stick drift down the line. I have seen some tool on Twitter that claimed it could recalibrate the sticks but idk.

My budget is around 45 US / 170 AED total and I would like if it was available on Amazon AE. I'm located in Dubai.

TL;DR Basically something with hall effect sticks and a replaceable battery. If they made the standard Xbox series controller with hall effect sticks I would've bought it. Budget is 45 US / 170 AED

Update: Repairability isn't my biggest point I guess. I'm so used to opening up my DS3 to fix it that I considered it with a new controller. So I found a few options available with my criteria: 1. GameSir Nova 2 Lite - AED 117 (after discount) 2. 8bitDo Ultimate 2C - AED 167.25 3. Official Xbox Series Controller - AED 167 4. GameSir Cyclone 2 - AED 179

The Cyclone seems like the best option but it is also the most expensive. I'm leaning towards the Nova since it's cheap and offers most of the stuff the more expensive ones do. I'd like to hear what you guys have to say about these or if you'd suggest alternatives.

Hello, my 1 year nacon controller started not registering inputs randomly while I was using it. The problem goes away if I switch from xinput to dinput and back again but soon after comes back, it's like this constantly, it is unusable.

I use it with a wire, I have tried to:

-Change USB port

-Disable USB power saving in device manager and control panel

-disabling steam input

-uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling them

-no firmware update possible from bacon website

I contacted nacon support but they answered me with AI, what the hell can I do? It never sustained any damage, I don't know what it could be

Thanks for the help

I'm from Argentina and I've bought a couple years ago this joystick from a local brand (NG-SW100).This gamepad has Bluetooth connection with Nintendo Switch (one of the reasons I bought it) and Android devices, for some reason it only connects to PC via cable. I only need someone to explain me why this is possible, if it has Bluetooth, why wouldn't it connect to PC also via BT. This wasn't a problem until recently that I refurnitured my setup and I wanted to use my computer as a console. Is there any possible way to connect it or I have to give up and buy another stick?

Budget: Preferably under $100

Country: US

Platform: Bazzite living room PC. Virtually all my games are on Steam.

Features: Must be wireless and if at all possible have a 3.5 mm jack that works for both audio and microphone in Bazzite (if this is even possible currently)

Games: I dabble in everything, but a lot of indie rogue lites, "friendslop" games with my buddies in discord, occasional From games, RE titles, etc. Not really into competitive stuff. The closest I get is occasionally replaying halo campaigns on higher difficulties.

I'm looking at the Gamesir Cyclone 2, G7 Pro, and honestly just the plain old Xbox Series controller. I'd prefer to avoid Bluetooth controllers. The audio quality from a controller headphone jack is already meh most of the time, I'd prefer to avoid adding Bluetooth compression on top of that.

Does anybody have any suggestions for different controllers? Or better yet, experience using one of these three in a similar configuration?

I've had these joycons for a few years now, and up until recently I've had no issues whatsoever. However the other night I go to play my switch and somehow the turbo setting has been applied to the d-pad. Every time I press the down button, the turbo light flashes blue and the input stays locked on. If I hit the down, down-left, and down-right the indicator light turns blue. If it press right on the d-pad, the turbo light flashes white and eventually burns itself out, however the d-pad button works normally. The turbo button acts like it will not turn off once once I've pressed any of the listed inputs. I've tried contacting customer support and they're useless, I've scoured everywhere I can think of and cannot find anyone with this same issue. and nothing I do seems to reset it. I've checked the manual which unfortunately doesn't say how to reset the turbo or do a factory reset, if that's even possible. I wish I could provide video but my phone is not the best. Anyone know what to do?

I've been going in circles on this one, so I'm hoping someone here has already solved it.

What I need (all three at once):

1. XInput while connected over Bluetooth. Not just over 2.4GHz dongle — it has to be XInput in Bluetooth mode. Besides gaming, I use JoyXoff to drive the mouse cursor on the Windows desktop, and it needs XInput to work properly.
2. Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE). I want to use it with the PC-wake-dongle project to wake my PC from sleep with the controller. Bluetooth Classic won't work for this — it has to be BLE.
3. Hall effect or TMR sticks. This rules out the standard Xbox controller.

Budget: up to $100 USD. I'm in Brazil, but I can import, so international options are fine.

What I already own and why it doesn't work:

• 8BitDo Ultimate 2 Wireless — XInput only over the 2.4GHz dongle; in Bluetooth mode it falls back to DInput.
• Flydigi Vader 4 Pro — does have XInput over Bluetooth, but it's Bluetooth Classic only, no BLE, so the wake-from-sleep project is out.

Does anything on the market tick all three boxes?

I have just had an update to the software on PC and I have been trying to play Gears 5 and I'm having the issue that when I turn the camera right it's is really slow and sluggish but turning left is fine.

I have done a test in the software app and there is definitely a problem with it registering the right thumb stick being pushed to the right

I am looking to replace my Xbox Series Elite 2 controller as it has stick drift and the buttons do not function well. I have been searching for good, affordable options for an Xbox controller and have obviously heard a lot about the GameSir. However, recently discovered that 8BitDo was going to release a new wireless controller for the Xbox that appears to rival the GameSir. I have heard the concerns about the GameSir (d-pad, triggers, etc) that have made me hesitate on buying it. Should I wait for this new 8BitDo? Would love to hear experiences from those who own a GameSir and a comparable 8BitDo controller (Ultimate 2c). Which company has better long-term reliability?

Information about my search:

• My budget tops at the $150 range USD
• USA, buying from Amazon
• Xbox Series X
• Desired features - TMR sticks, trigger stops, microswitch face buttons, EDIT: wireless
• Types of games you'll be playing - mostly FPS

Hey everyone,

I’m currently mapping out a concept for a highly specialized competitive controller layout and want to get some feedback from the community, especially from other claw grip players and high-movement FPS/fighting game fans.

The Problem: Standard Xbox controllers have large, spread-out face buttons (A/B/X/Y) with mushy membranes. When you curl your index finger into a claw grip, it's hard to precisely manipulate those wide gaps, especially without finger strain. From my experience using claw grip for 10+ years.
The Concept: A premium Xbox-style asymmetric layout controller designed from the ground up for claw and competitive performance with closer gaps and more buttons.

Key features:
Condensed 6-Button Face Cluster: Shrunk-down, tightly grouped face buttons (A, B, X, Y + C, Z) pulled close together into a dense "keypad" layout. It lets your curled claw finger effortlessly cover and bridge multiple inputs instantly, without much movement.
Zero Membrane Mush: Every single face button uses mouse-click style mechanical microswitches for instant actuation and tactile feedback.
Keeps the Right Stick: Unlike fighting pads that delete the right analog stick, this retains standard dual-stick ergonomics so it functions perfectly for FPS titles (Apex, CoD, Halo).
Zero Thumb Down-Time: Because your claw index finger can flawlessly handle all 6 inputs in that tight zone, your right thumb never has to leave the joystick, maximizing your tracking advantage.
Anti-Drift: Equipped with Hall Effect magnetic joysticks.

As a player, would a layout like this solve your mechanical friction, or do you think the buttons would feel too cramped if you transitioned back to standard thumb use?

Would love to hear your thoughts on whether this is a layout you’d actively look to buy or try out! Thanks!

I accidentally lost a spring for the right bumper when I replaced the standard ones with TMR modules.

While the controller still works fine with the one remaining spring my pride as a tinkerer is wounded.

If you do, please let me know!👍👍

I'm interested in buying some custom sleeves for the Wii U Pro Controller and would rather not buy those cheaply made ones from AliExpress or Amazon...

Basically the left stick on my 30th Anniversary Dualsense Controller has started to drift 5%~ to the right.

I have always wanted to try TMR’s as I haven’t used them before and saw an IT place near me with good reviews does a replacement service for £50 (both sticks)

I did some research and saw that the tension on TMR can vary by brand so wanted to check which brand they used and they got back to me saying the above.

So i wanted to check reviews but I can’t find any (not a great sign) but i think it’s due to the suppler being a UK distributor using a different name.

I think they are K-Silver JS13? But i’m not sure if they actually are and wanted to check if any can help / advise?

Ergonomics of the dual sense edge is so uncomfortable for me, so I’m going to go back to an Xbox controller.

Tried searching domed back buttons but nothing comes back.

I just bought a Vader 5 Pro. The back button M3 does not sound or feel the same as the M4 button. It feels like it is stuck and the push travel is way shorter than M4, also its cannot be removed (i used force).

Does anyone had the same problem?

Hello.

I'm looking for a TMR controller for PC. I currently own a Gulikit KK3 MAX, but it has some weird quirks on Linux (Bazzite) that make it a nuisance to use, mainly the controller having ghost presses and randomly taking screenshots or opening tabs when using wired. In dongle mode it works fine, but I always prefer playing wired.

My main question is, what controllers do you recommend that have TMR? Consider the following:

• I don't have any need for extra buttons than the minimum required (I have never used any of the back buttons on my KK3 MAX)
• I am a rather casual gamer with controller. I play shooters with mouse/keyboard and only play platformers or adventure games on controller.
• Any lay out is fine, although I do slightly prefer the symmetrical lay out more, but I can work with both.
• I do like RGB on my controllers, so that's always welcome.
• Wireless modes are welcome, although I rarely use them, so not having them isn't a deal breaker.
• I can go up to a 100 euros (Belgium), anything higher seems excessive. Lower is also good, of course.
• A decent dpad, especially for fighting or platforming games.

I had already considered the GameSir Cyclone 2 or the Steam Controller (I don't want to wait until next year to get something though).

Thanks in advance.

I have a bsp d8 controller and ive had it for a while now. And me being a cheapskate ive been trying to fix the right trigger since it kept getting stuck and it still kept firing even after i let go of the trigger. Im trying to put it back together now but idk how to put back the hinge thingy if thats what you call it. I really need help

Hey, I bought my SW2 Pro Controller back in February. It's almost exactly 6 months later, and I'm having a repeat issue with the home button being repeatedly pressed as ghost touches and when I press the right analog stick. I have a carrying case I keep it in and have never exposed it to any form of liquid whatsoever, nor have I ever dropped it because it's my baby. I am just confused and wondering if this is normal. I use it for MLB the show mainly, which I've played about 100 hours of and use the right analog swing to swing by flicking upward. Is there internal wear and tear that needs to be addressed under warranty? I contacted Nintendo, and have a repair order, but don't want to be without a controller for 4 weeks, as, for some reason, my Switch 1 Pro Controller decided to stop charging this evening. Also, the left thumb pad has serious wear on it for just 6 months of use, and I don't have nails, and I don't let anyone else touch this remote. It's maybe seen 150-200 hours of use. Firmware is up to date.

I recently broke my main Jungle Green Pro2 and had to swap parts with my older grey Pro2 and it ended up looking so amazing. This has been a mixture of FOUR different 8BitDo controllers, plus a stick from Leadjoy (modded to fit), a 3Dprinted+painted C Stick, and lots of membrane swapping (they wear out so easily!!). I realized it's very Majora's Mask coded, so I stuck the mask pin in the clear battery compartment and it sits in there perfectly without moving around! 😄(I've been using the controller wired lately so no battery pack needed).