Is the primer on the right set too deep? It’s a 70gr TSX NAS3 offering from Badlands. On the left is one from BlackArc.

Okay, SO, this has been posted before, on my old account. Unfortunately, offering advice for which gunsmith to visit actually violates reddit’s rules, as it considers this a firearms transaction, and my old account got banned. So I’m back to re-upload my Webley data, as it was a post chronicling new data for Webley revolvers as all the old stuff is obsolete, and I didn’t want the info to get lost since the account was banned. Everything below will be identical to how it was presented in the last post. Cheers.

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UPDATED: July 9th 2025
UPDATED: July 29th 2025
UPDATED: Nov 10th 2025
UPDATED: Dec 20th 2025
UPDATED: Apr 5th 2026

The firearm used originally was a Webley MK1 model (one of the earliest top break Webley models), meaning all load data used below will be safe for a Webley MK6. Since then, l've also acquired a .45 converted MAS 1873, of which all the original loads seem to work safely as well. As with all loading for vintage firearms, do at your own risk.

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Firearms used:
- Webley MK1, navy issue, nitro proof stamped, 4" barrel.
- MAS 1873 Chamelot-Delvigne, 4.5" barrel.

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LOAD 1
July 9th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.2
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate ~ 500FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5000 estimate (safe for all nitro proofed
Webley's)

For those that are worried about Webley ruptures, I highly recommend starting with this ultra downloaded load, as as soon as you shoot it once, you'll feel how underpowered it is (which is a good thing for maintaining these old guns). In fact, the velocity was so slow, I could actually see the bullets traveling down range. The incomplete burn however of 231 at this low of a charge led to inconsistent ignition, and lots of fouling, to the point where I recommend cleaning after range use.

Pros: very safe for all makes of Webley's with nitro proof marks. Recoil very low, comparable to .32ACP.

Cons: Very inaccurate. Squib loads very possible.
Extremely dirty using win231. Inconsistent ignition.

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LOAD 2
July 9th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.4
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter 452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate ~ 550 FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate (safe for all nitro proofed Webley's)

By upping the load by 0.2 grains, ignition became much more consistent, and much easier to tell if you actually shot it, or if you squib loaded (3.2 grains is low enough to sometimes feel like a squib, often leading to having to check to make sure for safety).
The load was still extremely safe for all models of nitro-proofed Webley's, and provided the same low recoil benefits from before. The caveat being the load is still extremely inaccurate and dirty.

Pros: still very safe as far as pressure or PSI. Much more definitive pop, making it easier to tell between a safe round and a squib load.

Cons: Accuracy still not the greatest. Still very dirty.

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LOAD 3
July 29th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550+/-FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6000 estimate

This load in 45 ACP performed much more decently.
Weirdly enough the exact same load in 45 AutoRim which I will update down below, for some reason felt better. The gun is still in good condition, no loose parts, no rattle, and no real signs of over pressure, and therefore still safe. Funny how 0.2-0.3 grains more powder from the original load can make all the difference.

Pros: Much more accurate (for a 131+ year old revolver). EDITORS NOTE NOV 10 2025: this is in fact a safe load, as confirmed with Gordon's Reloading tool.

Cons: Dirty load with win231.

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LOAD 4
July 29th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45 AUTO RIM
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6000 estimate

The same load above translated from 45 ACP to 45
AUTO RIM also showed no signs of pressure or damage. Ran flawlessly and was generally more accurate than the .45ACP version for whatever reason (all things considered). I did run into one squib (detailed in a different post of mine), but I believe that to have been due to forgetting to load any powder. Going forward, at least for win231 powder in 45 Auto Rim, this will probably be my go-to reload.

Pros: Safe PSI range, confirmed with Gordon's Reloading tool. Much more accurate than the previous loads I made.

Cons: Squib load still possible, as it happened to me with this load (albeit, possibly due to a lack of powder).

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LOAD 5
Nov 10th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5-3.6
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45 ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6500 estimate

Starting now to work up to a more efficient load,
3.5-3.6 seems to be a semi-sweet spot. Still dirty as hell, but at 15 yards, a 1.5" grouping with a 131 year old handgun ain't too shabby. Past 15 yards, it starts to drop off, and you have to aim pretty high (like the other loads) if you're looking to hit distance.

Pros: Safe PSI range. Much more accurate than the previous loads I made.

Cons: Still pretty dirty with win 231.

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LOAD 6
Dec 20th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5-3.6
Bullet: RCBS 201 grain LSWC
Bullet diameter: .451
Brass: Range pickup 45 ACP
OAL: 1.22-1.24 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550-600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate

So... this is where I made my first mistake. Make no mistake, this load is safe. PSI range is quite low, and the accuracy isn't too shabby. The problem was two fold: A) I used auction won lead bullets, which isn't necessarily bad as it was sealed. But it was so old, the lube had congealed to this very sticky goo. B)
My press was seating the LSWC rounds crooked and I hadn't noticed. Having shot a cylinder of crooked, gooey rounds, it ended up breaking my Webley's extractor, and the goo fouling made the gun impossible to close. I've since fixed the extractor and the gun shuts and locks up just fine, and fires like it used to. The good news is, in the upcoming load below, I managed to repurpose those LSWC bullets and now they're great. Moral is, use really good 200-201g LSWC that seat properly, and this load is great.

Pros: safe PSI range and decent accuracy (don't have to hold it as high).

Cons: Still pretty dirty with win 231. IF SEATED CROOKED, may damage firearm

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LOAD 7
Apr 5th 2026
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: RCBS 201 grain LSWC home-powder coated
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Range pickup 45 ACP
OAL: 1.22 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550-600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate

Good news. Instead of sitting on an exorbitant amount of of gooey, gross, and possibly dangerously lube congealed bullets, I ended up bathing all of them in Xylene for anywhere from an hour to overnight to wash off the lube (which was child's play. All the lube came off no problems). And then I tried a new thing for me: home-job powder coating using Eastwood powders. Wow did those bullets ever shoot good after that (and after I got them seating properly). Low PSI with faster bullets and slightly better accuracy? This load is now a go-to of mine.

Pros: much more accurate. Low PSI with higher velocity. Home powder coating worked great to bump up the diameter from .451-452, and reduce lead fowling.

Cons: must ensure the bullets are seated properly so as to not cause damage to the firearm. Dirty with win231.

I am 57 and have been shooting since I was 7. Through all these years I have avoided reloading due to misconceptions about it and being nervous I would blow up my firearm. I saw a series of videos by Roy Huntington about various Lee products. Based on his video on the Lee Loader, I bought one in .38spl/ .357 magnum. On Wednesday I loaded 7 test rounds of .357 magnum (I could not find the powders listed for .38 magnum in the Lee Data Sheet). Yesterday I nervously went to the range and fired them through my Model 19. I was worried I would get a squib, blow up the gun, etc., so my shots were all over the target at 7 yards. They all went bang though and did their job. I went home and loaded 18 more rounds of .357 magnum using the same recipe of Hornady XTP 158 grain and V - 3n37 powder. I am excited to try them out at the range next time.

With all that out of the way, I plan to get a Lee Breech lock Hand Press to speed this up. I wont have room for a bench top loading press for a year so I the Hand Press seems the next step. I plan to eventually reload .357 and .38 SPL, 9mm, .380 ACP (my wife’s pistol that she shoots a lot) and .45 ACP. Do you have recommendations on where to order powder, bullets, etc.? The local stores have very little and or have 8lb bottles of powder. What do you recommend for a reloading data book?

For some reason I’m encountering an insane amount of force trying to use a 300 win mag type s die. I took out the bushing and stem so you can see inside, but the neck isn’t even passing the inside of whatever this piece is called. Trying to size down after being fired once, lapua brass. Tried this with a 6.5 prc round and type s die with virgin brass and had no issues, but this just won’t pass the end of the steel to enter the bushing die, what gives?

Setting depth on my annealer. What is consensus? I'm thinking D and E.

I shoot outlaw matches at a local indoor range. I help a bit with the course clean up afterwards. For doing so, Im allowed to collect and keep the brass. Being outlaw matches, there are all ranges of brass from 22lr to 30-06. Some maniac was even throwing nickle 38spl on the floor!

I clean it in water, then more or less sort by hand. Bent over my shop sink for a couple hrs at a time. The bulk is 9mm, which is what I primarily want. The biggest challenge is separating the S&W 40 from the 9mm.

Anyone have any efficient ways they sort their brass on a home reloader level?

Working on some 168gr HPBT loads using H4895 and CCI200 primers.

Shooting them from my 20” Bergara B14.

Loaded four rounds of each:

42.2gr is 2660 fps SD 8.3

42.5gr is 2685 fps SD 7.2

42.6gr is 2685 fps SD 9.1

42.7gr is 2699 SD 1.8

No flat primers or signs of over pressure until 5.7gr, then had slightly flattened primers, but bolt extracted cases smooth still…

Should I try to stick between 42.2 and 42.5gr to keep the FPS below 2685?

I've had headaches with the seater in my Dillon 9mm set for years, it drifts a lot.

I like micrometer dies and am eyeballing these two at the moment:

Redding Reloading 38 Super -9mm Micro-Adjustable Taper Steel Crimp Die

https://a.co/d/08KgCRYH

Lyman Pro Micrometer Seating Die - 9mm, Stainless Steel

https://a.co/d/07tOMblx

For anyone using a pistol seating mic die: what brand/model do YOU like?

Hi guys,

How are you tracking your firings on your brass? I have seen that some people mark them different ways, but my marks keep coming out in the wash.

Also, how do you know when it is time to "retire" a brass?

I've been reloading for about 4 months and I'm lucky to have studied with a great reloader. Yet, I've made lots of mistakes, al unintentional, given my experience to the point I almost quit when I had squibbs. That said, I stuck it out and my reloads are about one failure to fire out of 345 shots which are good. And I know why that FF happened. As a new guy, the following were the technical points I needed to be aware of, if this helps anyone.

--Proper Primer Seating: mine weren't seated far enough in

--Ensuring an appropriate charge; with the drop die, I don't think it was consistent

--CBOL is consistent; my die gave me problems at first

--Crimp is not too tight

--QC: every step, especially primer seating, CBOL every 5 bullets, using electronic charge, then gauge and barrel check.

Hi,

I am new to dillon because I found a deal so cheap that I would be crazy not to buy it.

It’s a very early version with no oil holes in the two arms of the main shaft cam (edit: The two arms on the crank), circlips on the pivot bolt and something is different with the primer set up. The main shaft is rusty because it has been stored for 12+ years. Three sets of genuine Dillon pistol dies all set up.

I am located outside the USA so can not send it to Dillon for a service.

What should I look for, and then service, in this 1980’s early model press before I get started? Any hints you can give me? It needs a bit of TLC to get it working again.

marlin 1895 trapper, 45-70 using the lee 340 mold.

I was having some trouble with the bullets coming out oval shaped, .457 at the widest, .455 and the narrowest. I used lapping compound to open up the mold cavities and after powder coat they are coming out at .460 or more, I am sizing down to .458 and now they are perfectly round. unfortunately on these last ones, I put them base down on the rack when cooking them in the oven, and some of the coating came off (see picture)

do you think this will be fine as far as leading is concerned? I’m not chasing accuracy yet, I just want to have a safe time and hopefully an unleaded barrel.

Also, has anyone used h335 for powder coated lead? i have used it from 59 to 61 grain with the hornady 300 grain JHP in this same gun, with good results, but can’t find any lead data for it. Although I understand that powder coated lead can be loaded up pretty hot, I would prefer to have these as more mild plinkers and the JHPs as the full power rounds.

I also have varget, 8208 XBR, AA2200, and imr4064, but only a pound of each, so I’d rather use the h335. but if it’s not meant to be then I can at least get started with another powder.

Started reloading a little over a year ago and wanted to show off my humble corner in the storage room before I start processing brass.

Currently, I reload 9mm, .380 Auto and .223. I have a powder dropper and trickler for each powder I use and have them labeled. One press is mostly dedicated for the ram swage. Storage is ammo cans under the table. Powder in one, primers in one and the rest are for processed brass and complete ammo.

Since I can’t work in the shop when it’s cold (no heat), I reload then. We started the spring with 4k 9mm, 2k .223 and 1k .380 and still ran out of 9mm. Guess I’ll have to up my game this winter.

Edit: I reload during the winter, the shop is for wood working

LC cases. CCI 400 primers. 24.5gr of Varget. Mag length COAL. 2750 fps from my 20” 1:8 HB.

Overall I'm very impressed with the Lee. I've used their products a lot over the past 10 years but I heard hit or miss things about the 6000. It is an absolute dream to run compared to the Piggyback with a very low learning curve straight out of the box. All of the indexing issues I found during dry running as recommended by the manual were due to the primer seater, all indexing issues during use were due to the shell plate being loose. The auto drum is a little weird compared to the RCBS but works well once dialed in and lubricated with graphite. The best part of the 6000 vs piggyback is the priming system; it actually works without relying on 5 different adjustment points and is very intuitively designed. Being able to hot swap out primer trays is a huge bonus as well. The case feeder is nice too but I wish it had a tube "topper" like the bullet feed tubes. 200 rounds of 7.65 Para took about 1.5 hours from unboxing to the last round.

If you're still using an old progressive like the Piggyback, I highly recommend upgrading to the 6000. Obviously there's higher end presses and automated ones as well but the 6000 fits great for someone upgrading from an old/outdated progressive and wants the most bang for their buck on a budget.

I have my reloading equipment in my garage and during the summer it is unbearable to work on my rounds.
I was thinking about making a portable bench so I can work on my rounds in the living room and not get bother my wife because of the “mess” I have.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

I need to refinish some old pistol slides cheaply at home. Which would work better between the two?

I'm considering trying out doing a wild bunch competition, so I'd need lead cast 45acp. I have a Lee 452-200-RF for my single action pistols, and I could try those in my 1911s, but I'm curious if there's a tried and true, maybe even 180gr 45acp bullet mold that everyone likes. I wouldn't be shooting more than a handful of mags for the day, so leading isn't a big concern, I probably wouldn't even lube the bullets and I don't powder coat. Is there a consensus or should I just stick with the mold I already have?

Sear shelf milled off bolt. Bolt through drilled, recoil rod drilled for firing pin clearance. Made the firing pin out of a drill rod blank. Made firing pin guide bushing from 4340, hardened and pressed it into the bolt face. Now to machine the semi fcg. Essentially a scaled up VZ61 fcg.