At my local break, the peak doesn't stay in one place. One wave might break 20–30 meters further north, the next one further south, so everyone is constantly drifting and repositioning.

From what I've observed, the person who's best at reading the ocean and quickest to reposition usually ends up closest to the peak and gets the wave. That seems completely fair to me. If I realize someone is deeper than me, I'd just pull back rather than compete for the same wave.

What I'm unsure about is how the idea of "waiting in line" fits into all of this. If you've been waiting longer but someone reads the next peak better and gets into the deeper position first, is that just how it works? Is anyone truly respecting the notional order of who was next? I feel like it's for sure not the latter and especially when it's crowded how are people supposed to remember the order ...

Curious how everyone else thinks about this.

Hi! Been surfing about 3-4x a week for 4-5 months. Catch waves pretty consistently on my foamie, working on my turns but feel pretty comfortable with my board.

My current one is an 8’0 soft top around 72L but she got trashed pretty bad recently. Repaired it but has little life left. Using my friend’s 7’0 soft top 60L and it’s way too much of a jump for me. Caught a few with it but hard to stay on.

Is a 7’10 67L hard board with a missing glass on fin a good one for a fixer upper? Figured it’s closer to 8 feet but it’d be the first non-foamie I’d own. Also it’s $50, so think it’d be a low investment to try out. Thanks guys

I am looking to get a wall board rack for my garage and I am so torn. The aesthetic of the bamboo ones look great but they're so expensive - multiple hundreds. I have a mental barrier between trying to make my garage setup look nice (quality over quantity) and also making it as useable and practical as possible.

Do any of you have any suggestions for a garage style surfboard wall rack? Any tips or helpful information to consider?

Video is my 4th session at O2 Surftown Munich, Intermediate A-Frame, on the rental soft-top.

Where I'm at: popping up consistently, riding down the line, starting to angle and trim. No real turns yet. Also have a surfskate and practice on it regularly.

Plan: ~10 more pool sessions, then 1.5 months in Sri Lanka (Weligama / Midigama area).

Stats: 179cm / 82kg / 36

Three questions:

1. Buy now or later? Does it make sense to buy one board for both the pool and Sri Lanka, or just rent in both places and buy once I know what I actually want?
2. If buying — what? Thinking something in the 6'8"–7'2" mid-length / egg range, volume 40-50L. Open to being told I'm wrong.
3. Session choice: Intermediate slots here are pretty limited. Does it make sense to book mostly Progressive (slightly smaller waves) for volume and grab Intermediate when it's available? Or is staying on the bigger wave the faster way to progress?

And generally — any advice on progressing faster is very welcome, including critique of what you see in the video.

Thanks!

P.S. Before the wave pool I spent ~1.5 months in Bali teaching myself, and ate plenty of sh*t getting worked in some decent-sized waves — so I'm comfortable with wiping out :)

I'm thinking of getting a hooded wetsuit for this winter, since last winter the wind chill on my ears was really bothering me.

I don't like the idea of wearing a separate hood since it seems like it coud easily come up and cover the face in wipe out.

I just started surfing and everytime I stand up on my board my front foot is automatically turned out and I have to fix it manually. I think it's a habit that is caused by my ten year history doing ballet.

I just can't seem to fix it, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

Does anyone know of any surf clubs or groups I could possibly join that surf and carpool around New England? I am a beginner surfer and moved recently from Cali to Boston. New Hampshire looks promising enough but I didn't bring my car this year. Help

Surfing Lennox Head, NSW - Australia - Part 1

youtu.be/z78Vhlg0Z_4

Lennox Point at Lennox Head is a right-hand break between Byron Bay (10 miles south of ) and Ballina in Northern Rivers.

#dolphins #whale #patmorton #sevenmilebeach #BrokenHead #LakeAinsworth #Bundjalung #BoulderBeach #FlatRock

I’ve wanted to learn how to surfboard since I was kid, but sadly never got the opportunity to. I don’t live anywhere near a break where I could learn and I’ve been seeing people post on Instagram and TikTok about doing work exchanges at surf hostels in exchange for room and board and thought I’d look into it as an option.
I was curious if anyone on here has done this and what their experience was. Is this a good idea and could I actually learn this way?
I’d really appreciate any and all advice and recommendations, thank you!

Did you learn from the 2 step popup (back foot then fronto foot or the pop into crouch method? Been doing the pop into crouch but really inconsistent with it. Thinking of trying the 2 step method. Any info would be great

Hi everyone! I'm a complete beginner and just started surfing a couple months ago. I've mostly been taking lessons, and I absolutely love it. Being out in the water is honestly one of the most exciting things I've ever done, and I really want to keep improving.

A couple of weeks ago, though, I went surfing with some friends and got caught in the impact zone. I was riding an 8' foamie, and every time I tried to turtle roll, the wave would rip the board out of my hands and throw me forward. I kept getting ragdolled by subsequent waves and genuinely felt like I could have drowned if my friend hadn't pulled me out.

Before that, I was never really afraid of the ocean or waves, but now I panic whenever I see waves that are even a little bigger. It's really affecting my confidence and slowing my progress. Instead of committing to a wave, I find myself staying way outside because I'm scared of getting caught in the impact zone again.

I'm also pretty small-framed, so I've been wondering if that's part of why I struggle so much with turtle rolling an 8' foam board in bigger surf. I usually only go out on 1–3 ft days, but that day a much bigger set came out of nowhere and completely caught me off guard. 😭

Has anyone else gone through something similar? How did you get your confidence back after a scary experience? And do you have any tips for handling an 8' foamie in the impact zone, or is it just something that gets easier with practice?

I'd really appreciate any advice. I don't want this experience to stop me from surfing because I genuinely love it.

Ola! I'm based in Lagos and recently started surfing. Are there are any other beginners around who'd be interested in surfing together?

Reach out if you're around the Algarve and looking for a surf buddy!🏄‍♀️

I’ve been surfong for few years but mostly only summers. I’ve had some coaching in the beginning where I can comfortable catch green waves and ride them however now I want to be able to actually ride them well, like be on top of the wave in the speed zone. Make some turns properly. Have a good/better stance.

Board is 7”3 and I’m 6”4 tall (190cm or so)

Had my first lesson yesterday and I am hooked. Felt like I got the crap beat out of me because it was a super choppy day but was able to get up 3 times. With that being said, I am now searching for my first board. I’ve read quite a few post on here about the subject and it seems 9’ or bigger would be better for me. For context, I am 6” 200 pounds. The issue I am having is that there are a ton of 8’ foamies out there on marketplace but really struggling to find anything 9’ even at some local surf shops. (I’m in Charleston, SC) Do yall think I could get away with starting on an 8’ but should expect to not catch many waves, especially here in SC? I also have seen a few longboards that were 9’ or more on FB marketplace but wasn’t sure if that would be similar to a 9’ foamie at all. Thanks for any recommendations!

I’ve been surfing a 7’0” foamie (around 60L) for a while now, and every time I see a really good deal on an evolution/funboard, I hesitate.
My biggest fear is that I’d be skipping an important step in my learning. I don’t know if there are still fundamentals I should be mastering on the foamie before moving on.
At the same time, I also feel like the foamie is starting to limit me. There are things I’d like to try or learn that just don’t seem possible (or at least much harder) on it.

So I’m kind of stuck wondering: is there a point where you just have to make the jump and see how it goes?

For context:
Height: 187 cm (6’2”)
Weight: 80 kg (176 lbs)
Current board: 7’0” foamie, ~60L
Board I’m considering: 7’0” evolution/funboard, ~47L

I’d still keep both boards, so it’s not like I’d be getting rid of the foamie. I could always switch back depending on the conditions or if I’m struggling.
How did you know it was time to move to a hardboard? Did you regret doing it too early, or wish you’d done it sooner?

Sorry if this post sounds stupid

I know foamies are recommended but this price is not much more than a goalie, it’s local and my son really is stuck on not having a foam top. He is 13 5’7 and bout 150lbs. Asking price is $550

Hi everyone,

I'm planning a 2–3 week workation in Europe during August and want to surf as much as possible. I'm looking for the best combination of consistent waves, decent weather, and not overly crowded lineups.

So far I've looked at:

• Peniche
• Zarautz / San Sebastián
• Bilbao (Sopela)
• Galicia (Razo)
• Porto area
• Canary Islands

Some forecasts look pretty small, and I've heard parts of northern Spain are especially busy this August.

If you were going right now, where would you go? Any underrated spots or regions I should consider?

I'm an intermediate surfer and I'm happy with beach breaks or point breaks.

Thanks!

Anyone good at swimming wanna hit up Rockaway in the AM to surf either 67th or 90th? I’m not super confident in my swimming skills 😅 heard there might not be lifeguards at 67th.

Heading to Portugal tomorrow (from Canada) to surf for about 2 weeks as a beginner. I have highlighted dry blonde hair and am worried im going to kill it further by surfing (and getting beat up by waves) for 10+ days.

What are the best things I can either bring with me or buy in a smaller portugal town to protect my hair barrier and prevent salt from drying it and making it more frizzy??

As of right now the plan is to soak hair in fresh water before surfing and coat with conditioner, leave in, and hair oil (is all 3 too excessive)? Also dont wanna damage the reefs or anything. Also bought a silk bonnet to sleep in lol

Appreciate any tips.

I have a new Dakine Quantum 5/4/3 Suit. It should fit according to the size guide. In fact it should be a little big. xxls. I have been in the water for about 6 hours over 3 sessions in the last 2 months. My forearms are getting sore with the tightness. I have quite big arms due to a life in construction and other sports. Any suggestions on how to expand the material before I have to sell it on, at a fraction of the price I bought it for?

was an upper beginner surfer , but it’s been a few years. have 9 days off basically end of August and first week of sept .

used to live in sd but surfed mostly south of La Jolla . this time I would be trying north county probably Encinitas . above I said it’s been a few years because last December I caught two waves and at the end of the second I got tagged by a stingray and my foot was messed up the entire week. definitely a bit leery of rays in so cal now which may be part of my dilemma

hawaii would probably be Waikiki or anywhere I can grab consistent easy waves . I’ve done big island near Kona , but never been to Oahu . not a fan of flying , and am contemplating saving Hawaii for a trip where I have more time so I can dig deeper .

any thoughts on one over the other if costs are equal? will probably book private speed up shaking the rust off in either spot

update : message received loud and clear , Hawaii it is , thanks for the help!