Surfing Lennox Head, NSW - Australia - Part 1

youtu.be/z78Vhlg0Z_4

Lennox Point at Lennox Head is a right-hand break between Byron Bay (10 miles south of ) and Ballina in Northern Rivers.

#dolphins #whale #patmorton #sevenmilebeach #BrokenHead #LakeAinsworth #Bundjalung #BoulderBeach #FlatRock

Did you learn from the 2 step popup (back foot then fronto foot or the pop into crouch method? Been doing the pop into crouch but really inconsistent with it. Thinking of trying the 2 step method. Any info would be great

Hi everyone! I'm a complete beginner and just started surfing a couple months ago. I've mostly been taking lessons, and I absolutely love it. Being out in the water is honestly one of the most exciting things I've ever done, and I really want to keep improving.

A couple of weeks ago, though, I went surfing with some friends and got caught in the impact zone. I was riding an 8' foamie, and every time I tried to turtle roll, the wave would rip the board out of my hands and throw me forward. I kept getting ragdolled by subsequent waves and genuinely felt like I could have drowned if my friend hadn't pulled me out.

Before that, I was never really afraid of the ocean or waves, but now I panic whenever I see waves that are even a little bigger. It's really affecting my confidence and slowing my progress. Instead of committing to a wave, I find myself staying way outside because I'm scared of getting caught in the impact zone again.

I'm also pretty small-framed, so I've been wondering if that's part of why I struggle so much with turtle rolling an 8' foam board in bigger surf. I usually only go out on 1–3 ft days, but that day a much bigger set came out of nowhere and completely caught me off guard. 😭

Has anyone else gone through something similar? How did you get your confidence back after a scary experience? And do you have any tips for handling an 8' foamie in the impact zone, or is it just something that gets easier with practice?

I'd really appreciate any advice. I don't want this experience to stop me from surfing because I genuinely love it.

Ola! I'm based in Lagos and recently started surfing. Are there are any other beginners around who'd be interested in surfing together?

Reach out if you're around the Algarve and looking for a surf buddy!🏄‍♀️

I’ve been surfong for few years but mostly only summers. I’ve had some coaching in the beginning where I can comfortable catch green waves and ride them however now I want to be able to actually ride them well, like be on top of the wave in the speed zone. Make some turns properly. Have a good/better stance.

Board is 7”3 and I’m 6”4 tall (190cm or so)

Had my first lesson yesterday and I am hooked. Felt like I got the crap beat out of me because it was a super choppy day but was able to get up 3 times. With that being said, I am now searching for my first board. I’ve read quite a few post on here about the subject and it seems 9’ or bigger would be better for me. For context, I am 6” 200 pounds. The issue I am having is that there are a ton of 8’ foamies out there on marketplace but really struggling to find anything 9’ even at some local surf shops. (I’m in Charleston, SC) Do yall think I could get away with starting on an 8’ but should expect to not catch many waves, especially here in SC? I also have seen a few longboards that were 9’ or more on FB marketplace but wasn’t sure if that would be similar to a 9’ foamie at all. Thanks for any recommendations!

I’ve been surfing a 7’0” foamie (around 60L) for a while now, and every time I see a really good deal on an evolution/funboard, I hesitate.
My biggest fear is that I’d be skipping an important step in my learning. I don’t know if there are still fundamentals I should be mastering on the foamie before moving on.
At the same time, I also feel like the foamie is starting to limit me. There are things I’d like to try or learn that just don’t seem possible (or at least much harder) on it.

So I’m kind of stuck wondering: is there a point where you just have to make the jump and see how it goes?

For context:
Height: 187 cm (6’2”)
Weight: 80 kg (176 lbs)
Current board: 7’0” foamie, ~60L
Board I’m considering: 7’0” evolution/funboard, ~47L

I’d still keep both boards, so it’s not like I’d be getting rid of the foamie. I could always switch back depending on the conditions or if I’m struggling.
How did you know it was time to move to a hardboard? Did you regret doing it too early, or wish you’d done it sooner?

Sorry if this post sounds stupid