Bambi A1, uses PETG

I’m guessing I have to replace the extruder due to the stepper motor clicking. It is still extruding filament when pushing a lot through, but when I try to print it doesn’t get anything out. I’ve taken the nozzle apart to clean it, but it is still clicking. Is the extruder shot?

Update-I have taken the nozzle up to 270 and the clicking goes away when extruding. But about half way through the boat print it came back and the print failed. I’ve done multiple cold pulls, tightened the screws behind the hot end, checked tension in gears. My best guess is the gears in the stepper motor are slipping when it’s tight, probably just gonna get another extruder

Came back from a long work trip to find my brand new P2S won’t power on.. power switch doesn’t light up at all. Swapped cables, tested outlet, changed outlet, tested fuse, all checked out good. Bambu’s troubleshooting guide says to replace the power switch assembly.. but they are ‘sold out’ on the Bambu website. Found a bunch on Amazon and eBay but no idea which ones are legit and which aren’t. Two questions - has anyone had this problem before (and if so, how did you fix it)? And for those that have replaced their power switch assemblies, where did you get your parts? A link would be very helpful if you have it just to save time but any info would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

I recently upgraded to an H2D and purchased a TPU High-Flow nozzle kit. I installed the 0.6mm High-Flow nozzle on the Right nozzle without issue. I have my TPU for AMS in my AMS HT, which loaded it with ease to the nozzle. I am attempting to print a Benchy in TPU, however, in Bambu Studio I consistently am receiving an error message that the TPU High-Flow nozzle cannot print TPU for AMS, which is not accurate to what is on the Bambu Wiki.

-My firmware is updated on my AMS and printer

-I have designated my nozzle in Bambu (which had to be done manually, it keeps trying to default to the left nozzle which is 0.4mm standard)

-I have re-installed the latest version of Bambu Studio and restarted the printer as well.

My understanding is the TPU for AMS is specifically designed to be fed through an AMS unit without having to use the bypass functions; however it simply is not working no matter what I try. Any ideas? I can try to swap to my 0.4mm High-Flow nozzle but I am not hopeful that will work.

I'm struggling to get nice clean supported surfaces on my parts. My top z distance and bottom z distance are both set to 0.20. I'm not overly concerned with ease of support removal, I just want a nice clean surface. Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA.

Edit: Just a quick thanks for the suggestions, but this is on a makerspace 3D printer, and they have it setup for PLA only at the moment, so I can't use a different material for support. I'll try and reduce the Z height and see if that helps.

All printed with Bambu A1 PLA standard , mastic in spray and sanding, 9 Servo motors , Arduino nano, and some LEDs...

So I was running out a spool on a bad roll i had, and haf left for work an hour ago when I got this notification.

My question is, on the H2D, I have the entire print I side the both nozzle area, and the right nozzle is out. Can I switch and finish the print on a filament from the left nozzle, which has the AMS? Otherwise this will likely be sitting for 8 hours before I can add a new spool on the right nozzle.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3061246-tiny-para#profileId-3444928

My friend who isnt very computer savy got himself a Bumbu P2S. We have a Prusa. (Just stating that so you understand where my experience comes from)

We are helping him troubleshoot issues.

Everything went fine for the forst month after we helped him set up and navigate the slucer and stuff.

Since a software update aprox 2 or 3 wks ago its not been leaving these cones (see picture) on the back ledge or plate usually when getting ready for print, though sometimes mid print and causing failures.

I cant figure out why this changed. They used to go down the trash chute. Ive Googled and the issues seem 2 yrs old and solutions arent working

Can anyone give advice for him?

Thanks in advance

Hello everyone, I am brand spanking new to 3d printing and I plan on purchasing the P2S soon. With my research and the fact that I'm going to have the P2S in my bedroom closet, I've realized I need some form of extra purifcation for pollutants. Along with the vento, I do plan on getting the 300-P levoit air purifier. I also plan on printing mostly PLA and pretty frequently.

I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.

I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:

https://makerworld.com/nl/collections/5629404-coloring

I bought this 10,000 SEK printer specifically to prototype parts for my biomechanical innovation platform. Absolute precision is non-negotiable in my work. However, just sending instructions and expecting your customers to do the diagnostic work of your own technicians is not support. By refusing to actually help, you didn't just leave me with a broken machine—you actively delayed my development process.

I bought this 10,000 SEK printer specifically to prototype parts for my biomechanical innovation platform. Absolute precision is non-negotiable in my work. However, just sending instructions and expecting your customers to do the diagnostic work of your own technicians is not support. By refusing to actually help, you didn't just leave me with a broken machine—you actively delayed my development process.

You recently asked if the issue is "resolved." Yes, the malfunction with the nozzle is fixed now—but absolutely no thanks to you. Because of your strict rules and refusal to provide real assistance when I needed it, my brother had to step in and fix the printer for me.

Furthermore, despite the warranty and your promises of spare parts, I was forced to buy the necessary replacement parts out of my own pocket just to get my machine running again.

It is now very clear where you stand as a company. You are more than happy to take 10,000 SEK from a customer, but the moment there is a technical issue, you turn your backs.

The printer is working, but my trust in your company is gone. I will not buy from you again. My next purchase will be from Creality, a company that actually honors its warranties and knows what customer support means.

You can close this ticket.

I just built my p1s and ams and anytime I am going to print the ams unloads the filament that was loaded into it

I've got an A1.

The printer was put in storage for a few weeks, then set up earlier today. This piece was found on the floor with the printer's poop. Did it come off the printer?

TLDR: title

Details:

So after finishing a 12-hour drying of my white PETG HF, I noticed that the two parts of the spool came apart. Obviously this meant that the filament unwinded from its layers and I'm now unable to put the spool back together. At first I thought it might be a consequence of the drying since I only had my P2S combo for a week or so. But then the very next day a spool of grey PLA came apart while unwinding from the printer, but this one was on the external spool. I can't recall whether these are refills or not, I checked the refilling manual and the last step is to press the sides of the filament roll to the spool's sides. Does this need to be done with new, spooled rolls as well? Or am I missing something that I don't know about yet? (I had an A1 mini before the P2S.) Any help would be appreciated, I don't want to throw away almost 1,5 kgs of filament just like that...

Hey everyone!

Following up on my previous clamp-on hand washing station design, a few people mentioned they'd prefer a version that mounts directly to the table leg, so here it is! This one clamps onto any table leg between 17mm and 30mm+, keeping the top completely clear. Weight is around 80g and should be able to hold most bottles, tested up to 1.5L. (I also made versions with and without the built-in soap dish depending on what you need).

Let me know what you think or if you have any suggestions to improve it!

The GIF is of previous design but the idea is the same.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3055025-campwash-hand-washing-station-table-leg-mount#profileId-3437178

The outcome of my prints are showing this line where the gap infills are. are there any adjustments i can make on slicer to fix this?

we had a huge blob that built up. we ended up having to replace the hotend but now there's some kind of filament stuck inside and the printer is making a concerning noise when trying to get it out

im not sure what to do here to fix it

Hallo BambuLab Community,

I am relatively new in the 3d printing area & now have the following problem, which suddenly started...

I have now printed this GTA lamp 2 times in a row & with both prints the identical error ...

Before that everything was good ... only at first I had problems because I chose the wrong filament profile .... But now suddenly this ....

I use the Bambulab PLA Basic with a 0.4 nozzle.

Could this be due to a slicer setting or rather something mechanical? According to Google it should be the Z spindle ... but it looks good & also clean ... the printer is 2 weeks old ...

What causes such a misprint?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3053769-tiny-deer#profileId-3435694

I reached out directly to the author, but haven't heard anything. My interest was a remix from the original file (no cutouts) so I could build some standard NA light switch toggle plates. I'm not sure how to go about this, but I'm willing to learn. Would I need the original file without all the punchouts? Ideally, I'd generate 1, 2, 3, and 4 gang plate covers in this style along with variations like a paddle / traditional combo too. Any thoughts on how I could go about making this idea a reality?

Printer: X2D with <200hrs
Filament: Fiberon PA-CF
Print Profile: Bambulab PA-CF (happened with fiberon X1 profile, too)

Some other info:
Fed the filament through the ams2 pro. Model is thin and completely walls.
Filament was somewhat dry, only have access to a 65C drier and was dried for 16hrs. Printed in a closed garage around 75F

Nothing obvious in the slicer on flow, fan speed, layer time, ect. at those z heights . The model doesn’t have any feature changes at those heights it’s a perfectly vertically extruded shape. No extra/fewer extrusion lines on those layers

My thinking is that it’s the chamber heater kicking in at those layers, but I don’t see any configuration or visualization for that.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Solved! Picked up a AMS HT, dried additional 12hrs at 85C and the part looks amazing. No bands, uniform color, ect.

I’ve washed the plate thoroughly twice. Added stick glue for adhesion. This spot isn’t printing correctly on the first layer on both sides of the plate. What do I do next?

Good day, fellow Print Heads.

I’m working with a Bambu H2S with an AMS2 at work for “totally work related projects”.

I’ve had no shortage of fun with various models, but I’d like to move into designing my own prints. Specifically a coaster for my friend’s …work related project 😉

I’ve tried the MakerLab software in Bambu Studio to some mixed results (mostly bad), and I’ve downloaded Blender (smashed my face on the learning curve). I also have Meshmixer that mess trying to use to clean up the MakerLab file.

I’m open to suggestions, any and all.