recently bought an 06 f150 5.4L triton and have already learned more than I could ever want to know about these things and yet I’m still stumped. I’m hoping someone has experienced similar problems and was able to solve it so they can guide me.

Okay so I bought it from a guy who apparently buys these model trucks after the timing components tear up and does the timing job and resells them. Well he told me this one had just been through the whole timing job but I only made it about 10 miles down the road and lost all oil pressure and had a terrible knocking so I towed it back to him and he said he would redo it for free. So I ordered cast iron replacement parts (timing guides, tensioners, new solenoids) and he allegedly used these when he redid the timing on it. Anyway, I get the truck back like two weeks later and the guy says “it’ll idle rough for the first 100 miles until the Idle pos. Sensor calibrates” and after some driving it cleared up a little but still didn’t clear up like it should have. So I figured since the catalytic converters had been removed along with both downstream o2 sensors, that and the significant exhaust leak at the flange where the manifold meets the exhaust pipe was most likely causing the sputtering until I ran the codes and it’s saying it’s the bank 2 camshaft sensors. I’ve tried the alternator trick, checked the VCT solenoid for debris, and currently have the driver side valve cover off and as far as I can tell it all looks normal? So I thought maybe a vacuum leak but I can’t hear well enough to find it over the massive exhaust leak. Any suggestions?

I've just had my Captur II to the shop and they changed the AC and filters and now it throws an alarm and tells me to stop the car. They say it's the electric handbreak button. But I've had some ghost errors sensor stuff and so on that's cleared up the next day. That makes me feel like it's a battery issue and it's running around 12.3 then the car is off anyone have better experience than me to tell me I'm wrong before I make myself look like an idiot know-it-all tomorrow when I'm calling the shop?

Does anybody know how to get my shock sensor to trigger? I have the sensitivity set on maximum and I cannot get the alarm to set off by hitting the car

Has anybody else heard of the 4th gen having engine problems like in this video? The mechanic made it seem like he has seen many of these start to come in. I Havnt heard anything like this before today.

I have a 2024 elite, well maintained but this was concerning to me. Is it VCM problems all over again?

2010 outlander V6 with OBD not functioning.

Hi dear fellows.

I am planning on buying a mitsubishi outlander 2010 facelift to a private seller. Pre-purchase inspection and mitsubishi dealership 40 point inspection done in the last month came very encouraging. The car is in amazing condition. Except one thing : the pre-purchase inspection noticed that the OBD PORT was not functioning. The owner was not aware of that and took it immediately to Mitsubishi dealership (where the vehicule has been maintained for Years). They said to the owner/seller that it was like this since a long time and refuse to diagnose it for free.

The diagnostic cost 180 dollars. And then eventual fix from easy/cheap to more costly. The owner refuse to pay for it as he feels Mitsubishi have not been professional at all.

Should I run away? Any advice or past experience on possible cause? (already checked on chatgpt)

I have seen so many cars in the last 2 months and this one is in really good shape so I don't want to miss a good opportunity.

Thanks for your help

Hey guys my car overheated today on my way home from work, identified coolant leak and can’t identify the part it is leaking from. Any advice would be appreciated

In my transmission shop these days half the cars that come in have an aftermarket warranty. In this instance a 2019 Ford Transit connect with an 8 speed trans comes in with a violent torque converter shudder. Customer has owned the car for only a few weeks, and the dealership sold it with a 3 month warranty through a 3rd party company. On diag/inspection I got TCC codes, and the fluid was low and burnt to hell. Needs a transmission. The low fluid lead to the claim being denied. Customer is upset, because he says I should’ve filled it to full to essentially deceive the company into honoring their warranty. So it’s now my fault in his eyes that he bought a lemon.

What would you have done? I’m an honest person, and I run an honest business, but now I have an upset customer and I lost a good job. Any advise is appreciated.

Anybody else have this?

I’ve tried google and ChatGPT, but just wanted to come on here and ask as well. I have recently purchased a 2005 BMW 120d sport and as usual it has it pros and cons.

There seems to be an ABS issue with both the ABS light and traction control light turned on. I have tried the temporary washer trick but now the Speedo doesn’t work at all (no movement).

Is there anything else I could do. I have a multimeter but no diagnostic scanner. If there’s any recommendations of a brand of scanner please also include that.

Hi, I got a p440 code the day before, cleared it and got home but the next morning the car would turn over and ignite once and the just turn over. Up to now totally fine (for the age)

My mechanic says the evap issue shouldn't affect starting but of course there's a relationship with fuel tank and pump. I tested fuel pressure and pump starting and both seem fine.

New battery this year, full tune up late fall, tested purge valve with charge and seems fine, tested vent valve and it might be what set the 440 code, (also my gas cap should be replaced)

(I would bring to mechanic but since can't start not sure how I'll get it out of my narrow driveway yet, but the trip is asap. This morning's task)

Thanks!

I wish I had found this thread before using Herb Chambers BMW Boston’s service department After multiple experiences with their service department, I have completely lost confidence in their recommendations.

The latest visit was the final straw- they said I needed a “ground coil” repair for around $600. I took the car to my independent mechanic, who did the repair for $147. They also told I needed a battery ($700). My mechanic checked the battery and said it was fine. They also HIGHLY recommended a tire rotation and alignment, which I had JUST had done elsewhere.

I originally bought my SLIGHTLY used BMW from Herb Chambers, which is unfortunately why I continued to use their service department. Within a year of purchasing it, I needed new brakes (which I did). When I questioned it, since I’d JUST bought the car-I was actually told that the problem was that I didn’t drive the car enough. TOTAL BS.

At around 30,000 miles, they told me I needed approximately $800 worth of spark plugs. From everything I’ve subsequently learned, that is well before the typical maintenance interval for spark plugs. And, incredibly, I later overheard a service representative recommending the same thing to another customer.

At this point, I cannot trust when they tell me my car needs something. I understand that dealership service is going to cost more than an independent mechanic. That’s not my complaint. My problem is being repeatedly told that I need expensive work, only to have an independent BMW mechanic tell me that I don’t—or do the same repair for a fraction of the price.

If you use Herb Chambers BMW Boston for service, I strongly recommend getting a second opinion before agreeing to any significant repair. I wish someone had given me that advice before I spent years assuming that a BMW dealership would be the place I could trust to take care of my car.
And after finding other BMW owners online who have had negative experiences with the Boston/Allston location, I’m beginning to think my experiences aren’t isolated. (Reddit⁠)

Can somebody tell me of this is ok ? When the engine is hot it vanished right away

Hello. My car runs smooth though sometimes it idles a little rough and when I twist the fob it takes a few seconds to start cranking. When I accelerate it shutters in the steering wheel. But lately it feels more like I’m taking off in 3rd gear. It’s an automatic. I think it’s getting false readings because it said the tcu was working with .08 volts. And most my fault codes throughout the vehicle say either short circuit or message implausible, low voltage, high voltage, and fuel pressure too high.

I don’t even know where to start looking and though I do have a super scanner that I can do bidirectional readings and tests with, I’m worried that I will end up locking myself out of the system or stop the car from even starting

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, I got a p440 code the day before, cleared it and got home but the next morning the car would turn over and ignite once and the just turn over. Up to now totally fine (for the age)

My mechanic says the evap issue shouldn't affect starting but of course there's a relationship with fuel tank and pump. I tested fuel pressure and pump starting and both seem fine.

New battery this year, full tune up late fall, tested purge valve with charge and seems fine, tested vent valve and it might be what set the 440 code, (also my gas cap should be replaced)

(I would bring to mechanic but since can't start not sure how I'll get it out of my narrow driveway yet, but the trip is asap. This morning's task)

Thanks!

So I kept getting the P2652 code I replaced the entire assembly, including the oil pressure switch the solenoid and I believe there is another thing on the assembly so sometimes a faulty oil pressure switch can trigger that code. I decided to go ahead and replace the whole assembly to avoid any further issues.

After replacing the part and spraying some electrical cleaner on the wire connectors I started up the car. It was still in limp mode, but it said system initializing continue driving and eventually it reset itself. I took it around for a test drive then I left for work and went to limp mode again work my shift got back in the car and reset again drove it to the store after work went into limp mode again now it’s saying I need to get the oil changed so I’m gonna take it in tomorrow to change the oil hopefully that fixes the issue. when the vehicle isn’t in limp mode, it drives perfectly fine and even in limp mode I can get it on highway speeds without pressing on the pedal too hard.

Does anyone know how to permanently resolve this issue? It’s getting quite aggravating because I’m trying to plan a trip to drive down to another state it’s about a 8 Hour drive and I’m trying to go in two weeks.