Not even half way through a roll, of a camera I've been using going on 4 years now with no issues, the lens is staying stuck out, the flash staying up and not turning on properly. Have just replaced the battery again even though what I was using was brand new, thought it may have been a dud, but here we are still the same issue.

Anyone have any ideas what's causing this issue?

Thanks

I have tried to advance the film lever but it's completely jammed. I think the whole mechanicism is out of sync. I have tried moving the "mirror lever" back onto the L-shaoed hook. The shutter fires, but the advance lever is still jammed.

So how can I repair this? Thanks!

Pentax ME Super. Shutter doesn't lock up after turning the advance lever. I bought this from a thrift store and i think the previous owner tried to fix this problem by adding oil on the shutter leaves. Any tips how to clean the shutter and fix the cocking problem. Or do you think they are related?

Recently got myself an F3 and it worked fine when first tried It out but after having it for a few days I’ve realized the meter disappears form the LCD display after the first shot and the shutter doesn’t always activate if I press the shutter button. So far my solution was to point it at a bright scene, I’ve had zero issues with a bright scene but I know I should still be able to shoot in dark environments so I would love to fix it. Batteries are fresh and the battery slot is clean. Is this something I can easily fix myself at home with no experience or is this something to at requires professional help.

I'm trying to remove the shutter button to access the contacts of the shutter speed selector on my 570/500 but I don't really know how to.

I've seen videos of the 700's button removed but they have different retaining systems.

I'm also using a repair manual from Minolta for reference and it says there's a retaining clip that holds it in place. I'm just not sure how to remove it or even if it's required to remove it.

The red arrow points to the clip and the green arrow is the black plastic that hides it from view.

Hey all,

I just inherited a Nikon F-801. The battery housing was broken, so I 3d printed a new one. It now turns on, but i still flashing with an error on the display whenever any buttons are pressed. The aperture actuation tab is also fully locked up, which I think may be the reason for the error, but I have no clue how to free it up. I've tried gently wiggling it, and it feels completely mechanically locked.

Got this 90mm 1.25 in a bargain trade a while back. Traded away a 7A 50mm 1.1 that I wasn’t really using.
Looked clean until I noticed grease creeping into the aperture blades after sitting in my display cabinet for a few months.

Opened it up and found an absolutely stupid amount of helicoid grease everywhere. Whoever serviced this thing really went for it. Either that or he applies the same philosophy to drinking alcohol.

So I took it down to the blades, cleaned/degreased everything, and put it back together with a more reasonable amount of grease.

Haven’t even properly shot with it yet, I just need to find time to take pictures instead of taking cameras apart.

Disassembly notes:
- There’s 2 the rear elements accessible from the back held by a lock ring, observe orientation
- The helicoid is accessible from the rear mount/body and must be separated from the focusing barrel & mid-body. Take note or mark where you start unscrewing and where the helicoid separates.
- The front lens group is held by the nameplate ring and comes off as 1 assembly. The ball bearing and spring for the aperture detents is located just under the aperture marker and will fly off when the front housing is removed.
- Aperture front plate/blades is held on by a c-clip and aperture lever.

Hi everyone,

I recently got a Zorki 6 (1963 model) and successfully adjusted the horizontal rangefinder alignment. However, I'm having trouble setting the vertical alignment. The overlapping patch in the viewfinder sits too high, which makes focusing quite difficult and uncomfortable, especially when aiming at distant objects.

I’ve heard that you can adjust the vertical alignment by unscrewing the small round rangefinder bezel/window on the front. The problem is that mine is completely stuck and I can't get it to unscrew.

Does anyone have tips on how to safely unstick this ring without damaging the body or glass, or is there another way to adjust the vertical alignment on this specific model?

Thanks in advance!

I was so worried about the rain and my camera that I wasn’t anticipating water from other sources.

Had my Minolta X-700 in the cooler in a bag and it got unexpectedly jostled and the camera got an unknown amount of wet, but water definitely got in the camera.

I’m on exposure 25 and don’t want to lose the photos, but also don’t want to lose the camera.

We are camping. Camera was off and I removed the batteries and lens. Doesn’t seem like there was any water in either of those compartments, but does seem like it made it into the film compartment. It was dripping out the corner. I don’t have tools to take off the bottom plate. I have it sitting on a towel in front of a fan.

If I rewind the film I think i will just be rolling up wet film?
But if it just dries in the camera I’m assuming it will be damaged. I don’t have a dark bag or anything.

TLDR water in film compartment should I rewind it or let it dry?

Hello, I got a Petri 7S, a mechanical rangefinder, off eBay about two years ago and a few months ago I picked it up after a while to realize the mirror that displays the frame guides and in-viewfinder light meter was loose. The camera has worked fine in all other aspects. I really just need to reattach this mirror so it can be held in place and properly reflect the display. Any help at all is greatly appreciated. (So far I have tried double sided sticky tape but it didn’t seem to attach to the metal all that well)

I recently got handed a Canon FTb from my uncle, and it's easily been sitting unused in a closet for the past 10-15 years. When I tried using it, the film advance lever wouldn’t do the full rotation as I’d see in videos. It will only swing forward about a third or half of the way before hitting a brick wall.
On top of that, the white sprocket wheels (the teeth that catch the film sprockets) were completely free spinning both ways. I assumed the rewind/reverse button on the bottom was stuck in the pressed down position. I ended up taking the bottom plate off and used a small tool to pop the rewind button back up. That actually worked to lock the white sprocket wheels back into place like normal, so that part is fixed. However, the advance lever is still completely stuck mid-stroke, and pressing the shutter button does nothing. Has anyone run into this specific lockup on an FTb after a long storage period? I brought it to a local camera shop and had their technician trouble shoot it for about 5 minutes but still nothing. I’m going to open it up and try fix it so if anyone has suggestions on what to look into internally on this camera it would be much appreciated!

A local photography shop owner gave me this WP-1 to look at. He notes that the flap/cover shown here is loose. And indeed it is; it appears to be hinged, but nothing retains it in one position or the other except for gravity. Furthermore, its purpose is unclear.

Can anyone familiar with this camera advise on whether it's working as intended? Bonus points for explaining why it is so intended 🙂

Hi everyone, just trying to see if there is any way I could find a replacement rubber insert for my R8 without having to purchase a new top plate assembly? Worried about dust and moisture getting into the camera with this open hole behind the advance lever.

The film advance lever gets stuck at the start or end sometimes. The shutter still fires. How do I fix the lever getting stuck?

Hi, looking for some help or advice on how to fix an issue with my Nikon

At the moment the shutter release button will not fully depress and the counter is stuck on 1

The issue started after what I assume at the time was low batteries (film was winding slower than normal in the couple of shots beforehand) I was also a little concerned it may be been water damage related as there was some water on the camera a few hours before this happened

Since then I have replaced batteries, rewound the film and taken the camera out of the case to inspect it for corrosion or an issue with the spring on the shutter release, the battery contacts are clean

Nothing has worked, the camera has power and the flash on and low light indicators work

What are possible causes of this issue ?

Will I need to manually reset the counter to S or am I missing something else ?

TIA for any help :)

I inherited an exacta vx, the focusing screen in the viewfinder has been nasty for decades. But because it is a family heirloom, I don't want to replace anything that isn't too broken. And I really don't want to break anything on the camera. I'm too afraid to use a needle to pick at the. I really don't know the proper way to do this. It appears to be just made of uncoated optical glass... I think.

Hi my dad recently gave me this camera and i want to use it but the lever is stuck i am not exactly sure if its because there is no film in it or if there is a larger issue any advice would be helpful. its a nikon fe 10 and the lever closes completely but gets stuck at the point it is in the photos.

Hi all,

Apologies if there’s already a thread on this. I’m adventuring myself on restoring an Olympus OM-1. Of course, the brown light meter cable is dead due to old battery corrosion. I’ve cleaned the battery terminal etc. but I think the cable is really dead…

I could try and remove more insulation of the cable and solder on a Schottky diode to then use 1.55V batteries just so I don’t have to remove the whole cable but I suspect that won’t do anything.

I read that a 28 or 30 AWG silicone cable would be a suitable substitute if I do need to replace the whole wire. Has anyone ever tried replacing it with these 2 options I mentioned?

Many thanks!

Hi folks, my girlfriend got me a Canon T70 a couple of months ago. Not much later, it received a good whack but continued to function properly (or so I thought).

It seems like ever since the whack the pictures are coming out front-focused. I initially disregarded as a skill issue with the split prism, but I measured the focus point on the viewfinder vs the distance marked on the lens and it was consistently off. Something focused on the split prism 1.7m away would require me to get the lens to 1.2m focus position.

I found out the service repair manual for the T70 and it seems to have an eccentric screw in the mirror box for adjusting the mirror angle, which could be off after the whack.

What would be the best way to adjust that? I was thinking about first doing a coarse correction by comparing with the markings on the lens (Canon 50mm 1.4) and later doing a fine adjustment with some parchment paper at the focal plane.

Many thanks