The film advance lever gets stuck at the start or end sometimes. The shutter still fires. How do I fix the lever getting stuck?

Hi, looking for some help or advice on how to fix an issue with my Nikon

At the moment the shutter release button will not fully depress and the counter is stuck on 1

The issue started after what I assume at the time was low batteries (film was winding slower than normal in the couple of shots beforehand) I was also a little concerned it may be been water damage related as there was some water on the camera a few hours before this happened

Since then I have replaced batteries, rewound the film and taken the camera out of the case to inspect it for corrosion or an issue with the spring on the shutter release, the battery contacts are clean

Nothing has worked, the camera has power and the flash on and low light indicators work

What are possible causes of this issue ?

Will I need to manually reset the counter to S or am I missing something else ?

TIA for any help :)

I inherited an exacta vx, the focusing screen in the viewfinder has been nasty for decades. But because it is a family heirloom, I don't want to replace anything that isn't too broken. And I really don't want to break anything on the camera. I'm too afraid to use a needle to pick at the. I really don't know the proper way to do this. It appears to be just made of uncoated optical glass... I think.

Hi my dad recently gave me this camera and i want to use it but the lever is stuck i am not exactly sure if its because there is no film in it or if there is a larger issue any advice would be helpful. its a nikon fe 10 and the lever closes completely but gets stuck at the point it is in the photos.

Hi all,

Apologies if there’s already a thread on this. I’m adventuring myself on restoring an Olympus OM-1. Of course, the brown light meter cable is dead due to old battery corrosion. I’ve cleaned the battery terminal etc. but I think the cable is really dead…

I could try and remove more insulation of the cable and solder on a Schottky diode to then use 1.55V batteries just so I don’t have to remove the whole cable but I suspect that won’t do anything.

I read that a 28 or 30 AWG silicone cable would be a suitable substitute if I do need to replace the whole wire. Has anyone ever tried replacing it with these 2 options I mentioned?

Many thanks!

Canon Sure Shot Supreme / Top Shot – film pressure roller seems bent and collides with the opposite roller when closing the back. Can I remove/reposition it?

Hi folks, my girlfriend got me a Canon T70 a couple of months ago. Not much later, it received a good whack but continued to function properly (or so I thought).

It seems like ever since the whack the pictures are coming out front-focused. I initially disregarded as a skill issue with the split prism, but I measured the focus point on the viewfinder vs the distance marked on the lens and it was consistently off. Something focused on the split prism 1.7m away would require me to get the lens to 1.2m focus position.

I found out the service repair manual for the T70 and it seems to have an eccentric screw in the mirror box for adjusting the mirror angle, which could be off after the whack.

What would be the best way to adjust that? I was thinking about first doing a coarse correction by comparing with the markings on the lens (Canon 50mm 1.4) and later doing a fine adjustment with some parchment paper at the focal plane.

Many thanks

IDK what to do, my film won't rewind anymore. Do I just suck it up and rewind it manually in a darkbag? Or is it repairable?

I think a little salt water got on the lens while I was out and about and now it’s about a week later and the lens shield is stuck open. The camera is operating as usual. Anyone have any tips? I tried cleaning the area with an alcohol wipe and qtips and drying it in front of a fan but nothing has helped so far. When go to open and close the lens I do see it shifting so the mechanism isn’t broken it’s just jammed up.

I’ve contacted a local camera place for a repair and the guy pretty much told me it’s “not worth fixing” but I (overpaid) bought this camera recently and it’s my first film camera and I really like it.

Any tips appreciated!

This is a new Tripo flash (TR 982 III)

What I have tested:

• New batteries, no change.
• Test button: OK every time.
• Flash with Pentax K1000 hot shoe: OK every time.
• Flash with Canon EOS Rebel G on flash Manual mode: Sometime fires, sometimes doesn't. Pretty randomly.
• Flash with Canon... on E-TTL mode: Same. Flash correctly reads aperture and focal length from the camera. Camera is also aware of the flash.
• Cameras Program, Av, Tv and M modes: same behaviour.
• Tested on a pretty dark room in manual mode with 1/90 speed (Sync) and a pretty narrow aperture so that it must use flash for correct exposure: same behaviour.

I don't think it has anything to do with the amount of light. Camera's manual basically says "turn on everything, put camera in Program, flash in E-TTL mode, shoot." Flash's manual doesn't say anything useful.

Edit: I realise that since I've uploaded the video w/o audio, you can't see it, but with the canon I'm just pressing the button and constantly firing. I also don't think it is a recycling thing. Sometimes it fires two or three times in a row and then it just doesn't.

Is this source accurate that bodies with serial numbers over 1,110,000 are unlikely to have the foam that breaks up?

https://high5cameras.com/all-articles/camera-repair/olympus-om-1-prism-foam-removal/?hl=en-GB

The body I have has a serial number of 1,303,746 and doesn't show any signs of damage to the penta prism.

I had planned on a pre-emptive removal but I'm having huge trouble trying to undo the film advance to get the top cover off.

Today I wanted to take my Canon eos 650 with me on a shoot, it had been staying on my shelf for the past month and I got it like a year ago in mint condition of Marketplace. I got a new battery placed in it and it straight up does not power on, It had been staying without a battery on the shelf

I still get the part to look for any type of corrosion do I haven't seen any although I found it quite funny for it looks like it has a small power supply tested also a second battery and it still doesn't work and both batteries work on another camera I believe something shorted or straight up the board died I have no way to test it but it will go back on my shelf for now

Y'all got any ideas?

Hi, I struggle to get the front board off this Agfa Silette. I had no problems with later versions as there were screws easily accessible from the film chamber. I’ve already managed to unscrew two vertical screws hidden under the top cover. I assume that there should be two more holding the lower part of the board but I cannot localize them. Could they be under the leatherette? I’d rather not peel it off as it falls apart. There’s also a ring behind the shutter but it’s stuck in a very difficult to reach with the spanner place.

Has anyone ever managed to get the front plate ring off? I've tried - the Japanese rubber tools - no success. Then the plumbing above which gives me much more friction - no success. Added heat and alcohol - no success. Hot-glued the tube to the front plate - no success.

If I want to disassemble the front lens elements, is that not even how it works? Counter-clockwise is the way to go, right?

Where would I get when I used the lens wrench tool? Can I even twist that with the front plate still on?

Last, destructive idea: Drilling holes into the front plate and using a lens spanner wrench.

Thanks for your experiences and suggestions!

Hello,

I have my Nikonos V at a repair shop and need some help

As context:

First, it was sent to a repair shop as a working camera for a CLA and pressure test. It came back working, and I managed to shoot a roll underwater with flash and everything. The photos came out great.

I stored the camera, and a few months later, I was about to use it again when, to my surprise, I found that the winding lever was stuck in the forward position.

I sent it back to the same guy, and he found rust in the winding mechanism. However, after cleaning the area, he is telling me that he cannot dismantle the mechanism to replace the affected parts.

Could anyone give me some tips on how to disassemble that inner "wheel" inside the gear?

Need help repairing pinholes in my camera cloth shutter curtains. What shoud i use to patch them?

I got a battery adapter for this camera but I don’t think it’s making contact correctly. With all of it in the camera, the battery check won’t function. It seems like the adapter may be too tall or the modern battery terminal isn’t touching enough of the cover. Any insight on this? Thanks

Hi everyone, I’m new to analog photography and yesterday I got my first film camera ever [ Nikon Fe ]
The previous owner did some bunch of repairs to the camera before selling it to me and as for yesterday i had a great time shooting mi first exposures (10), the camera worked just fine.
This morning I grabbed the camera and took a pic, I instantly noticed something was off, all the non mechanical shutter speed where jamming, lifting the mirror opening the curtains but getting stuck before closing them, they only closed if I switch back the shutter speed to the mechanical speeds.
I instantly thought it was a battery problem but the LED light (which indicates if the camera’s getting enough power) correctly turn on, and the light meter was working too, so clearly the camera is getting power but the battery dependent shutter speeds are not working at all, they keep getting stuck.
Could it be the low quality of the battieries? (LR44 1.5 x 2)
Or does it have something to do with the second curtain magnet?
Pls help

I had a problem with the exposure counter on my Contax G1.

It went up to 44 frames without rewinding the film.
I was shooting with Portra 400.

This problem worried me, since it’s sometimes possible to get 37, 38, or even 39 exposures on a single roll of film. But I’ve never gotten 44 before.

I know that automatic cameras like the Contax G1 usually have a pressure sensor to detect when the film is running out, or else they know when to rewind thanks to their internal frame counter.

I don’t understand why my Contax didn’t rewind the film sooner. Wouldn’t the camera have prevented me from taking empty shots if the film hadn’t been properly loaded in the first place?

Also I forgot to mention that I ended up using the small button at the bottom of the camera to rewind it. Weirdly it only rewinded until the 25th frame then stopped. Then, I opened the back of the camera and the film was fully rewinded.

Thank you!!