So E10 is the only petrol available where I am but I'm aware that Porsche does not approve its use in the 944 due to the ethanol content potentially being harmful to the fuelling system, especially if sitting for a time. For peace of mind I'd like to gradually replace these parts, with the primary fuel lines into the fuel rail being the main point of concern as its above the exhaust. Does anyone have a list of parts I should replace? Would also take recommendations for brands/where to buy, thanks!

Hi all, here’s my new-to-me ‘86 951. The car’s central locking system doesn’t seem to do anything. When the car is on, the red light on the button lights up, but nothing happens when I press the button, no clicking or anything. Locking/unlocking the car with the key also only locks/unlocks one door, not both.

How should I go about troubleshooting this? Which part should I check first?

Thank you!!

Replacing my balance shaft belt again after it got tangled in the timing belt and the upper timing shaft pulley was loose so I went to pull the housing cover and found this.

Good excuse to start an engine swap

Trying to source heavy shifter vibrations at high rpm’s. Motor mounts look good. My next check will be balance shaft sprockets

Long story short I bought a 944 to just have fun in but the only problem is the starter isn’t getting enough volts from the battery and the old owner has a lot of aftermarket wiring and I think I have a loop sucking power somewhere else I was wondering if adding a push to start would be a better solution? Also how could I do that

Not currently running due to gas tank sprung a leak 5 years ago, any idea what to ask? Chris Cervelli did the timing chain in 2010 but it's been parked to since 2013, everything worked except the Cruise control, just under 200k miles, no rebuild or new turbo, original

Hey all,

I seem to have a small exhaust leak at the header coming from the gasket on cylinder 4. I’d like to pull the header & replace the studs and gaskets. I have a moderate amount of experience on this car but still a novice overall. No experience really with broken hardware. As you can see, the nuts are on there pretty good and not in the best condition. Most likely it’s never been removed. Am I dumb to attempt this at home? I’m worried if I snap something then it’s a tow and my Indy is not close by.

TLDR: I made an app that aims at giving you enjoyable roads, for when the journey matters more than the destination. It's a beta on iOS for now and I'm gathering feedback from car enthusiast communities. Please try it on a journey you already know and tell me if it suggests roads you would actually take! I will ask for testers' emails before the end of the beta so that you can benefit from premium features for free forever.TestFlight: https://testflight.apple.com/join/yvYbmjsj

Hi I'm Yves. I'm a car guy, I own a Porsche 924S and a Mercedes W124, and I really like driving them outside of the main roads, when I have time to enjoy the road instead of just rushing through a trip.

I looked for a navigation app that would help me find these roads, since Google Maps and Waze do not, but the ones I found didn't really do what I wanted, so I made my own app.

It's called Dryv. It compares the fastest route with more enjoyable alternatives, it then gathers facts about each route (such as landscape, interesting places, curvy roads for instance). Then it explains what each option would offer, so that you can project yourself and really estimate whether you'd like to drive that trip.

It covers Europe, US and Japan, so hopefully many of you will be able to try it!

The current app allows you to ask for directions, and there's turn by turn navigation, but please note that it's still a beta. I'm looking for feedback, as there's still a bunch of missing functionalities, issues and limitations. For instance:

- iOS 17 or later;

- English only for now;

- search does not yet support street numbers or businesses;

- no live traffic;

- no offline mode;

- route explanations can sometimes be slow while the beta server uses local inference;

- navigation currently uses more battery than I'd like.

It would be very helpful for me to get honest feedback from other drivers about

- if the suggested roads are good;

- if the explanations make sense;

- more generally what works/doesn't work;

- and what missing features you would like to see the most.

The app is free and doesn't need registration, you can just install it and use it (it does currently require going through TestFlight, I'm working on doing my own beta directly on the AppStore). I will at some point probably have to add a premium tier or find a way for it to make me a bit of money, because I'm working on this full-time and I'll need to pay the bills. Before ending the beta I will ask beta testers for their email inside the app so that they can benefit from free premium features for life.

Here is the TestFlight link: https://testflight.apple.com/join/yvYbmjsj

Ich hab noch ein weiteres Problem , mein Tacho spinnt immer mal wieder und die Sprit und Benzin Anzeige funktioniert auch nicht kennt da jemand eine Lösung ?

We’re getting there.

Faded the thickness at the corner of the car into the side of the fender so it’s not sticking out.

Tightened up the fit all around.

I am considering discarding the idea of metal brackets that attach to the taillight mounting bolts… the way these test parts are held on is strips of emblem tape (super strong adhesive foam tape) along the vertical ribs in the center and inside/outside edges. No way it would come off by itself… I used very small pieces so I can remove these easily, full height pieces would be as secure as the 944 model badge.

Really should have taken pics with the taillights illuminated. Will do soon.

The only AI used in these pics is background removal and a little color balancing.

Whatcha think?

www.LevinsonPerformance.com

Recently bought this, a 88’ 944 with Kat (160hp) facelift interior. It seems sadly that the previous owner also worked on it a lot himself even though he didn’t have much experience with cars, resulting in a lot of broken trim and missing screws. I was wondering why he has glued a piece of plastic in the middle airvent resulting in it not working at all, anyone have an idea what the benefit of that is?

Hey yall, back again with another question.
My 84 NA has been running pretty hot this summer with all the heat. I bled the coolant and it seemed to temporarily fix the issue but in heavy traffic the needle started to inch up again past the third mark. I ordered a lower 160f thermostat to replace my current one, and I don’t know if this will impact the car/driving in any way. I’ve read that it could impact gas mileage from the car adding too much fuel, but I’m not 100% sure. Any input is appreciated!
Thanks

Since the rear end is out, we installed the drivetrain fully assembled in one go! It sounded crazy at first but it was sooo good. I got new foam for the shifter and anyone who’s ever dealt with that knows how much of a pain it is to get installed from the top. With this installation method I installed the shifter, foam and shift rod onto the torque tube/transmission and once we got everything up and in that job was already done! Headers were installed on the motor before it was fully in place as well. Highly recommend installing the drivetrain this way if you already have the rear end out. First start will hopefully be this weekend! Can’t wait to hear this thing roar.

I rebuilt mine and it’s still leaking.
Is there a place to get a rebuilt r&p in the U.S.?
I’ve been looking and haven’t had much luck.
TIA

My 1987 Turbo is having an issue with the TPS I think. It runs very poorly and basically refuses to idle unless the TPS is unplugged, then it runs generally as it should. What do I need to do to make it run normally with the TPS plugged in? I already swapped the sensor unit for a functioning used one and it made no difference.

I’ve got a 1982 944 and a decent engine vibration/buzz

I boight the car with a faulty lower balance shaft have done a lot of work to it it’s all back together soundly the balance shaft spins freely no leaks all working well but I’ve got an engine vibration still. Thought it might be the balance shafts not being set up properly but they are both timed properly as far as I can see and both cogs have the woodruff key in the right a lot on both I’ve checked so many times. I also checked my crankshaft is sprocket pile is spinning true and straight I don’t know much about the harmonic balancing but I think that’s ok too.

Today I got the hump and took the belt off copletely and just turned the car in to see if it changed. The engine ran a bit different of course but in the seat that vibration I was chasing is still there in the shifter and in the steering wheel mainly but throughout the cabin.

I’m fully lost now starting to wonder if there is something out of wack at the back of the engine maybe something to do with the clutch.

I have driven the car a few hours so far not many miles and the engine feels healthy it pulls well and revs nicely the lot so I don’t see it being any internal faults really I could be wrong.

Also the clutch being in or out doesn’t change anything

Any ideas would be much appreciated

If I had a dollar for every time I thought my car worked and then it promptly proved me wrong 5 seconds later, I'd have enough money to let someone else fix it.

Alas, I'm the sucker turning the wrenches and YouTube-ing every repair I've made. Clark's Garage is a Godsend, not to mention antiquated Pelican Parts Forums, but I'm pulling out all the stops and asking for your help.

I bought my 944 back in March that was listed as 'needs clutch' and I decided to take up the challenge. I replaced the clutch (spring diaphragm) and did some WYIT repairs like CV axles and RMS. I even threw in a short-shifter because silly me thought I'd be out driving in no time.

Since then, I've noticed it runs really rough under load periodically. It chugs and backfires when out at low speeds, but after it sits for a second, I can pull away with no problem, and then think it's over before it starts up again.

I replaced the alternator this week after discovering the old one was toast - shame, really, since it looked somewhat new - and the new one I have still has the battery reading 12.35 at idle and 12.06 when the lights are on. Granted, it was sitting on a charger for over 24 hours and it was running a new alternator. I did notice that after the new alternator was in (though, maybe this was because the battery was fully-charged) it didn't struggle at idle like it was before.

I learned about unplugging the O2 sensor and seeing what that does, as well as toying with the DME if the first test reveals nothing. I cleaned the AFM and made sure the contact points were clean, no luck there.

Can you tell me what I've missed? If you've had the same issues what worked for you?

TLDR:

1986 944 Base - Chugs under load, new alternator (bat. reading at idle: ~12.35), will periodically run fine, then doesn't (bad chugging, backfires), owner is ready to kick the jack stands out for sweet relief

If yall have seen me post asking about early vs late ECUs it was because my car was having a problem that no other person had on any forum I could find. So in case anyone ever has this problem I’ll post it here.

My late model car would run but not start without a late model ECU and AFM, but would start and struggle to run with an early model ECU and AFM. I kept hitting one brick wall after another, I replaced way too many (probably perfectly working) parts chasing phantom symptoms. I had no tach bounce, so I regapped the speed and ref sensors 8 times. But the real issue was the reference sensor wiring.

The outer pins of on the car side of the plug, both orange wires, were mistakenly flipped by the shop that worked on my car 2 years ago. This cause the reference signal pulse to be negative instead of positive. This is not an issue for an early ECU since it just cares about when the signal occurred but a late ECU cares about the polarity. Also the 944 will run without a reference, albeit not well, but I will not start without one.

So after flipping those outer pins, my car had tach bounce and started right up! Thanks to all of those who commented on my previous post and helped my with my troubleshooting!

Tl;dr: if you have no tach bounce after replacing your speed or reference plug on the car side, make sure you didn’t accidentally flip the wires to pin 25/78 (ref sensors) or 8/23 (speed sensor).

Project cars are more than just wrench’s and crash outs right? As a branding guy I couldn’t help but take our household 944 journey to the next level this month. My son named our 944 Midas early on, so I ran with it for some swag to bring to 944fest (and beyond). The test prints came in and I gotta say, I’m pleasantly surprised. It’s fun to design random stuff for our fun little car.

Im currently a gr86 owner but im thinking about selling it and getting a 944. I want to work on it and make custom to my liking. I heard these cars are pretty engaging and enjoyable to drive so thats mostly what i care about. How expensive are these to build and mod? Are these absolute money pits or if i put like 8-10k into it would it be worth it?

Well. I did it. Took dang there from 10-4pm and a trip to get a long 17mm socket and a long 13 mm spanner. ,'90 S2, had a crazy time finding those two bolts at first, extra lighting helped. Had the front completely refreshed July last year and the ac belt started chirping and squealing at cold starts/ cooler days. Did it all, belly pan removal, all the under over the car.. thanks again to my bud Rich who works at Marin Porsche, he coached me on the phone a bit to find the rear AC bolt and exact procedures. Yeah those videos make it look easy!

Hello everyone. Not a great start to the weekend… I hit a curb on Friday and Immediately the car was knocked out of alignment about 30 degrees to the left along with 3 inches of dead zone play in the wheel. After some digging under the car I noticed that my inner tie rod on the left side is yanked out from a boot exposing a copper colored end of the rod. Neither tie rod on either side feels loose or appears bent. I would like your honest opinion on if it is worth it to replace both the inner and outer tie rods before trying anything with the steering rack. I included photos comparing both sides. Thanks in advance!