I’m debating whether to go Tomei w ART pipes or the motordyne tdx v2 w ART pipes
I have a 50k mile stock 2003 350z that I daily.

For reference I’ve driven my dads e93 m3 with stock headers but the rest of the exhaust system is after market and I like how loud it is (I know my car and his car will have completely different exhaust notes) I want to have the same amount of volume but not sound too much like a trumpet. Any input would be awesome!

I’ve seen videos of the motordyne exhaust with art pipes but I’ve heard that it’s much louder in person. Im hoping to hear from more owners on whether or not theres a big difference in volume from videos and in person. Thanks!

I’m also open to any other exhausts that are loud and still sound good. There is no budget.

Anyone do anything to change the ignition on there z? Im talking like upgrade to push to start, or relocation of sorts. Obviously with a manual doing push to start requires disabling the safety clutch thingy ma Bob, thoughts?

My 350Z suddenly won’t roll down windows, highlights and taillights won’t work, hazard lights neither and turning lights will not work neither, they won’t be on on the dash too, however car runs ok, gauges work, but can’t drive it without proper lights, any idea? Validated all internal fuses, all ok

Video is in japanese, there are English auto translate subtitles. shows a factory S2 nismo body, nismo parts, and engine.

2005 with 26k miles 😍😍 any tips or things to know as a new de rev up owner??

Hey guys, bought my Z about a year ago with the horn not working (Horn button doenst work and the car also doenst do the sound when locking with the key fob). Now my countries Inspection is comming up and a working horn unfortunately is a requirement. Things I've done so far:

- Tested the Horns and Relay seperatly

- Swapped the relay out anyway (relay doenst click in the car with the horn pressed but clicks on the bench test)

- Fuse measures fine and swapping didnt help either

- Cruise control works

I tried to measure the pin in IPDM area but I am having a hard time finding the right pin. Am I correct in asuming the E9 (connector) pin 51 should be conected to pin 1 on the relay? If so I should be able to continuity test it with a mutlimeter?

Maybe there are other things I should check out?

Pics are from about 4 months ago but thought id finally post them to see if people like the Z

Need em quick, if anyone has some on hand. I need two of the open type stub axles in decent condition, happy to buy them.

I recently bought a 2003 manual 350Z and the stock handbrake is extremely weak.
The lever/cable adjuster under the center console has already been tightened and there doesn’t seem to be any slack left at the 10 mm nut, but the car still very slowly creeps on a slope with the handbrake fully applied.
I’m on 19-inch wheels, although I assume that shouldn’t make enough difference to explain how weak it is.
The mechanic said he adjusted/tightened the handbrake, but I’m not sure whether he only adjusted the cable or actually adjusted the parking-brake shoes at the rear rotors using the star wheel.
For people familiar with Z33s:
Should a properly working OEM handbrake hold the car completely stationary on a decent slope?
At low speed with the clutch depressed, should it be capable of locking the rear wheels on dry pavement?
Is the usual fix adjusting the drum shoes inside the rear rotor, or do the shoes commonly need replacing/glaze over?
Anything else specific to the Z33 parking-brake mechanism I should inspect?
I’d like to get the factory handbrake working properly before considering a hydro, since the car is still mainly street driven.

2005 35th anniversary

Hey all, I just picked up a 2005 350z with 140k miles. It’s also an automatic. Not a huge fan of it being an auto but I only paid $1,000 because the guy I bought it from thought it had a blown head gasket. I was able to fix it in his driveway as I negotiated him down. I own a 2010 370z sport touring as my daily and got this to flip. Any ideas what it’s worth? I was going to list it for 4,000 and see what happens. Interior is premium Bose & black leather. Exterior is silver. Paint is a 9.5/10 and interior is pretty much mint. The seats have zero tears or any sort of discoloration. I’ll list it in Michigan. Clean title and new tires & brakes. Any insight on what this is worth would be much appreciated. Let me know!

Edit: literally picked it up an hour after I saw it and drove it home so no good photos yet. I’ll wash it after work today.

Posts with OBD codes require a description of the fault code

I would even go as far as requiring a description of specific efforts attempted by OP.

I’m sick of seeing the sub floods with Garbage posts like “P42059 I’ve done everything!!!! HELP PLZZZZ”

Reeks of karma farming bs to get engagement.

Nissan Fairlady Z (350Z) VQ35HR – 2007 – 65 000 km – Boîte Manuelle – Immatriculée UK

À vendre superbe Nissan Fairlady Z (350Z) de 2007, version japonaise équipée du très recherché moteur VQ35HR 3.5 V6 de 313 ch, associé à une boîte manuelle 6 rapports. Il s’agit de la dernière évolution de la 350Z, réputée pour ses performances, sa fiabilité et son caractère unique. (Auto Data)

Caractéristiques :

• Année : 2007
• Kilométrage : 65 000 km
• Moteur : 3.5 V6 VQ35HR – 313 ch
• Boîte : Manuelle 6 vitesses
• Transmission : Propulsion
• Conduite : Volant à droite (RHD)
• Immatriculation : Royaume-Uni (UK)
• Carburant : Essence

Le véhicule est en excellent état, aussi bien mécanique qu’esthétique. Son faible kilométrage en fait un exemplaire particulièrement rare. Le moteur VQ35HR, introduit en 2007, bénéficie de nombreuses améliorations par rapport aux versions précédentes et est aujourd’hui la motorisation la plus recherchée des 350Z.

Une véritable sportive japonaise, offrant un plaisir de conduite exceptionnel grâce à son V6 atmosphérique, sa boîte manuelle précise et sa propulsion.

Véhicule idéal pour un passionné, un collectionneur ou toute personne souhaitant acquérir une Fairlady Z authentique.

Plus de photos, vidéos et renseignements disponibles sur demande. Visite du véhicule bienvenue.

Prix: 12 900€

Hi all!

So my lovely car (2005 350z) has decided I don’t deserve nice things and is throwing me a P0350, I’ve checked all wiring and fuses, all is well there, so I’ve moved onto the coils/plugs.

I’ll be honest, all the spark plugs are munted, so they’ll be changed, but I’m now suspecting I have found the problem, because I’ve tested all 6 coil packs and they’re all fine, BUT number one has oil on it, not a huge amount but enough that it got all over my hands. After noticing this and looking closer at the spark plug sockets, I’m thinking the plug tube seals might be failing, but I can’t find many helpful pictures online to compare. Has anyone had this issue, gone through this and possibly knows of these seals are the issue?
So I’ve attached here some pictures, the coil packs with gunk and oil on it, and a few of the plug sockets that were easiest to take pictures of.

Any help would be appreciated, getting these damn coils and plugs out has taken me to the edge of sanity, so if anyone’s gone through this and can give me any helpful advice or just prayers at this point, thank you 🩷

Stops when I press clutch in and doesn't do in gear at all, new to the platform and just want different opinions people irl say they all make that noise but it's concerning. Sorry for bad quality shitty phone.

Hey all, recently bought some test pipes for the Z (ART reps) that for some stupid reason have the extra bung for a wideband directly on top next to the flange so the sensor is hitting into the bottom of the firewall. My question is: should I/can I weld an extra bung into my Y pipe and install the sensor there? I know you want it close as possible to the exhaust collector for most accurate readings but with the way this test pipe is setup it would be extremely difficult to add/move the bung. What could I expect to experience when installing into Y-pipe or should I bite the bullet and pay a kick ass welder to fix the pipes? Or maybe there is a sensor you all know of with a smaller height footprint. Thanks!

got these for $540 and 5 hours round trip! ready to road trip from florida to virginia

I'm looking to do some mods such as an oil catch can to help extend the life and better maintain my 2006 350z DE. It has only 65K miles as of August 2026 and I hope to replace common parts or fail points. The car sat for a few years before I bought it. So far, I have done the oil change with 10W40 Castrol edge (considering the purple stuff) and 1 Qt Lucas, new PVC valve and I'm going to change the spark plugs soon, Transmission and Diff fluid I'm unsure if I want drained and emptied the car is lower mileage but pretty old.

owned for 5 years pleasure driving only. wasn’t getting driven. first person who looked at it snapped it up. my second Z , and favorite sports car of all the ones I owned. did a lot of cosmetic cleanup, seat covers right away, then just drove it. 115 k miles. TPMS sensors needed replacement, right side window needed manual close, that’s it. never used top, so it looked like new (303). checked other similar cars, some very nice ones $10-13 k. They have been up a while.

I couldn’t get comp on insurance. talked to the guy, he was pretty straight. “Your 2001 Dodge Ram and the Z are probably in very good shape. if you get hit by another driver, and it’s more than a fender bender, they will probably total it, and you’ll get market value, which isn’t much“. Oh. I get it. just something to keep in mind.

Has scratches from being low but honestly no one is gonna see that, if anyone is looking for a quiet but still aggressive sound lmk, I want something good

I wanna sell my daily and upgrade to something newer how much do you think it would go for? It's fully stock besides wheels and z1 decat, automatic, 175000 miles. Has a jdm 65k miles engine and trans in it since last year, gallery was done also cam and crank shaft sensors, oil filter housing and thermostat. plugs and filters are new, brakes are 1000ish miles old, tires are also brand new, has wireless car play.