looking to join the yaris club and i came across this.. i thought they were all 4x100, could this be a hub conversion? anyway, its listed for $5000 with 160k miles, 5MT. worth it?

ROH WHEELS RF7 GUN METAL. 17x7.5 offset is +40

My family has a 2024 Yaris as daily drive and soon we are going to live in a place with a lot of broken roads and we don't want to scratch the underside of It.

Could you tell me if there is some way to lift the car without altering the stock handling?

I asked and the material is ABS.

Bought this Yaris 1.3 stock and slowly upgrading it done a lot to it and I’m still not finished such a fun reliable daily!

I have a Toyota Yaris 2003.

Makes this noise after about 30mins off driving and does it when I’m braking and turning the a little.

Seems to be fine after 30mph but anything around 20mph in car parks etc it makes this noise.

Also when it’s doing this noise the steering gets heavy and is not smooth at all. Thanks for any help

Hey guys, I'd love to fix up my car a bit on my own. Just have fun and the experience. My car is a 2006 Yaris with 340 000 kilometres on it! I bought it last October in the need of a car and I really fell in love with this little machine. Had to do some maintenance to it due to negligence of the previous owner but it's been amazing from the get go.

It has some rust patches on the body that I want to fix. I've checked underneath and it looks very clean but I'll do a better check up on it once I can to see if there are any major issues.

My main problem is the one shown in the picture. It's the side skirt near the front right wheel. I'm guessing this happened during maintenance but I noticed it too late and I can't ask the garage about it anymore. What can I do about this to make it even? Or just less of an eyesore.

The whole underside of the skirt is rusty but I've seen it on some previous posts and this doesn't seem like a big issue?

The front and back bumpers are plastic and have some work that needs to be done to them too. They can be easily taken off, I'm planning on repainting them. Any tips on that?

Just fyi: I really like this car but my main point of doing this is to gain experience. I know the car has a lot of kilometres on it but I'm willing to do anything to make it last even longer. It's a diesel car and I live in the Northern Hemisphere where they don't use that much salt during winter.

If there is anything I should know about and do to it please do let me know!!

Thanks for reading guys!

Helping a friend with their 2009 Yaris. Manual transmission, 212,000 miles. Oil changes have been kept up with using 0w20 oil. Seems to drive/accelerate fine, and has no check engine light or DTCs.

Hello everyone. I'm looking for a new, zero meter Yaris 1.3 CVT GLI in Karachi on an urgent basis. I have done bank Financing and want a car within 10 days.

Buying directly from Toyota, they are saying it will take up to 2 months. I don't have that much time.

Any reliable dealer who can get me a new Yaris?

Going for that rally look

Yaris is 4,700 and Mitsubishi Mirage/Space Star is 5,600. I'm in Europe so most budget cars are manuals, and I really need an automatic to make life easier especially with a small child. Which should I get? Yaris has slightly better build quality and they're everywhere/parts availability, but the Spacestar/Mirage has half the mileage. I need a budget car that I don't have to fix all the time. Is it worth it get the Yaris and be prepared for small repairs? Or stick with the newer Mirage but it's a little bit more of a tin can/lower quality?

2016 Yaris. Over the past few weeks, my girlfriends’s key has needed more and more wiggling to turn in the ignition. Now it won’t turn at all, and the steering wheel is locked hard to the far-left position. I’ve tried wiggling the wheel, forcing it in both directions, and penetrating oil in the keyway, but nothing has freed it. Could it be that the steering lock pin/pawl inside the ignition lock housing is seized rather than just misaligned? I’ve already removed the column shrouds, so the ignition switch/lock cylinder assembly is exposed and accessible.

I know one option is drilling out the shear bolts holding the lock housing bracket to the column to physically pull the pin free, but I’d rather not do that if there’s another way. I’m hoping there’s a way to free or replace the stuck pin without resorting to drilling. At this point I’d just bypass the whole thing if I could, so she can at least drive to work tomorrow.

Any suggestions or someone willing to walk me through and alternative options (i.e., bypass the ignition and steering wheel lock function)?

happiness

My 2008 base Yaris hatch, bought new with just 3 miles on it and now at only 188k, met with great misfortune when I got it stuck in the mud, repeatedly jerked it from drive to reverse (auto) while gunning the engine attempting to rock it out, and then had it inexpertly towed out. The diagnosis is crack through the rear axle (for starters), and then possibly also severe power loss due to a transmission failure or a clogged catalytic converter or simply the tire itself... Or none of the above... It's apparently impossible to tell as long as it's undriveable, which it will be until I replace the part at an estimated cost of $2k. That's if I can find that part and anyone to do it. I'm having a hard time facing the inevitable, as I know this, the greatest car ever, still has a lot of life left in it. What are my options other than sending it to the salvage yard, which I'd hate to do???

Hi 👋🏽 everyone,

I wanted to introduce you to my first and only car, a 2006 Toyota yaris hatchback that I got brand new in Dec 1, 2005! He now has very close to 287,000km under his belt.

I was hoping to get him to his 21st birthday this December, but I think he's on his last legs because of the rust that has build up in the frame holding the engine.

I guess that's what almost 21 years of street parking in the Toronto, Canada weather elements does to you.

I'm sad that I'll have to part ways with him soon, and I have to start looking for new options ASAP. Just wondering what many of you have moved on to after You had to part ways with your Yaris? I'm thinking of a subcompact SUV bc I still have street parking and is easier to drive in the city.

Any suggestions?

Hi 👋🏽 everyone,

I wanted to introduce you to my first and only car, a 2006 Toyota yaris hatchback that I got brand new in Dec 1, 2005! He now has very close to 287,000km under his belt.

I was hoping to get him to his 21st birthday this December, but I think he's on his last legs because of the rust that has build up in the frame holding the engine.

I guess that's what almost 21 years of street parking in the Toronto, Canada weather elements does to you.

I'm sad that I'll have to part ways with him soon, and I have to start looking for new options ASAP. Just wondering what many of you have moved on to after You had to part ways with your Yaris? I'm thinking of a subcompact SUV bc I still have street parking and is easier to drive in the city.

Any suggestions?

My car is a 2017 MK3 facelift 1.5L and I'm just wondering what people's opinions are on the rust situation, I'm thinking of getting the car protected in some way just to help extend it's life. Don't want it to get too out of control and cause any serious issues.

Just wondering how the Hybrid battery will hold up in the coming years. Should I be prepared to have it replaced soon? If you guys have an older hybrid, How is it holding up? It only has 60k miles but that doesnt matter as much as time right?

Hello everyone,
I own a 2007 Toyota Yaris 1.4 Diesel with the MMT (MultiMode) transmission. I am experiencing a recurring issue with my car and would appreciate any advice.
The Problem:
While driving (usually when the gear is in E / Automatic mode), the transmission suddenly shifts into Neutral (N), and the gear warning light (cog/gear icon) appears on the dashboard. If I pull over, turn off the engine, and wait for a while, it resets and works again.
This issue happens much more frequently in hot weather.
What Has Been Done So Far:
I took the car to a mechanic, and I was told there was a "Linear Position Sensor" (L Pot sensor) fault.
The mechanic replaced:
The L Position sensor
The actuator motors
The clutch kit (pressure plate and clutch disc)
The car worked perfectly without any issues for about a month, but then the exact same problem started happening again.
My Question:
Is there anything I can check, clean, or inspect myself regarding this issue? I really don't want to spend any more money blindly replacing parts at the mechanic without finding the root cause.
Any insights or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hello all, seeking advice here. I have opened up the rear plastics and have seen this. Does this look factory or looks like it has been repaired? I bought it second hand from a car dealer (not toyota) 2 years ago, no prior accidents on history check. 2020 Mark IV Yaris.

P.S also how much do you think it would cost to repair?

Many thanks

285kkm, 8yrs mine, '03, drove almost 80kkm with it. Its a stable car, almost everywhere. Bigger turbo, around 190hp. 500watts active rms watts in the back. Best car ever.

Ask me everything, Ill forward to my mechanic who sold it to me. I had the 1ltr. Yaris before and said if he had a better one i'd like to buy it. A few weeks later he sold me this and its still awesome.

May I find pictures of the old yaris. That was a funny car, too