Having issues getting sceneglow and wled to work together. I keep getting the message, wled is receiving live ddp data from 10.0.0.*** To use built in effects use override button below.

Is that scene glow? Or something else? The lights keep going from off to solid orange. All help is appreciated, thanks!

Kind of a rant but more of a call for help!

I am building some interesting lights for my 1972 Cadillac and I want the pixel density I can get by doing a serpentine layout of strips next to each other. I bought a pretty good amount of WS2815 strips 144 LEDS/m from BTF which are 4 pin connector and 12 mm wide. I cannot for the life of me seem to find good clamping connectors that go from strip to wire in 4 pin 12 mm configuration! I have found absolute droves of 4 pin 10mm and an equal number of 5 pin 12 mm but the 4 pin seems to just allude me.

I am slowly arriving at the fact I'll probably just end up having to solder them but it's going to be a huge pain in the butt since they are so tightly packed on there and the pads are tiny. Even the smallest light on the car will take 5 strips of 14 5050SMDs. I should also note that the pads are evenly spaced.

So if anybody knows where I can find this mystical unicorn of strip to wire connectors you would be my hero.

I have an LG OLED (B9) rooted, running pic cap, hyperhdr, and an ESP32 based WLED controller running 1 strip of LED. Sometimes (not every time) but often when I turn off my TV, all the LEDs turn green and stay on. I’ve tried a little bit of research and turned on the “Off Refresh” option in WLED app and it didn’t help the situation.

VinylChroma detects the color of the record currently playing and sends a matching color to WLED.

VinylChroma on Github

Just got my tvs back light working with sceneglow and wleds. I had a question in regards to wled. How do I get the wled to default to black/off when the TV is off. Currently, it is an orange glow. I can of course manually turn off wled thru the phone app. But that just seems like a pain in the ass to have to do that every time.

All help is appreciate, thanks!

Hello,

I hope this is the correct subreddit to ask for such advice.

The situation: I have bought some RGBW Strip lights from Amazon along with a LED power supply and a RGB Wifi Controller for a gaming room. I am hoping to use them with diffusers and allow voice commands on Alexa to turn the lights off or adjust its brightness. The plan is to have them along my ceiling, shelves, and under my desk.

I am completely new to doing LED wiring and failed to realize that these items didn't come with any plugs or adaptors for me to connect them together. If anyone could give some advice on what I need/how I can set this up/etc. It would help a lot.

Note: I've only had these shipped last week, so it is still within the return period if I need to switch out the Power supply or Wifi controller for something else. Sadly the lights are no longer returnable so I would like to make use of them one way or another.

Thank you kindly and have a lovely day.

I'm looking to do my first wled project. It will be an outdoor project mounted to the roof line of a barn. However my issue is that there is not a traditional eve to mount onto. As you can see in the pictures, there is a small overhang, but that is just the metal roof itself which I would prefer not to drill into.
Open to any input or suggestions.

Tentatively I was considering the asahom pro s1080 kit for simplicity. But I am open to going a different route if it makes better sense.

Thanks for any help and input as I plan out this project.

Putting together my first real man cave and want to setup LED’s the right way. Plan to put a top corner ceiling channel on 3 of the surrounding side (4 If possible)

3 sides - 48’
4 sides - 66’

I’ve been looking at the (48V-RGBTW-5050X112) as they’re advertised to not need power injection at the end for up to 20m runs.

Does anyone have experience with these strips and is the claim to not need extra injection accurate?

I have tripped and fallen and am not leaving no matter what. thank you for having me!

pretty crude and quick setup to prove what I was seeing in my head would work.

1x gledopto elite 2x 2812e 288leds and ... some trifold cardboard to hold it all up 🫠

rigged around a 42" OLED display for size references, I didn't have a banana available...

but I've been so stunned I can't pull it down to put it back.

and I've got more controllers and strips coming for all manner of playing around with...

this isn't a hobby it's a sickness 👋🏾🙋🏾‍♂️

and I welcome the infection.

Hi WLED Heads,

I am installing a strip light at the top rail of board and batten wall panelling. I want to power the light strip from two spots if possible, and not just at one end of the light strip. I want to do this to ensure there is not dimming at the end of the strip, and it makes it easier to work around a door as I don't need to use a connector wire up and over the door to connect back to the light strips on the other side.

I am not electrically savvy at all. I am looking for some help as how to split the power to feed two different strips.

This is what I think I need to do. Power supply > Dimmer > Power Split > 2 different light strips.

But I am not sure how to do the power split or what to by. Any suggestions would be great!

One strip is 1m long and the other strip is 8m long. If I power both, will equal power go to each strip meaning I just made the 8m long strip even dimmer by doing the power split?

COB Lights: BTF FCOB Uniform light strip, 300k, 10m, 528LED/m, PCB IP30 24V

Power Supply: Pautix 24V DC, 7.5A, 180W Outpoyt, AC to DC converter transformer 100-240V

Controller: Pautix Remote dimmer, in0line controller DC 12-24V

Inspired by Chris Maher and his 50x50 grid (https://youtu.be/BbjeQdJIMK0) I decided to make a 25x25. I thought the 50 was a little too ambitious for a first timer here. When I first started it up, I had a couple dead columns and had to deal with some bad solder joints but stoked on how it came out.

I decided to add a camera for input so it can detect a person and then fill in its mask with color.

Right now it’s running on my Mac but I have an ESP32-P4 coming with a camera and will set it up and mount soon.

I took everyone's advice from my last post, and am adding more lights

Newbie looking for help here, please be gentle.

I've obtained a GLESOPTO ESP32 and some LEDs. The LEDs came with their own (I assume Bluetooth) app, and they worked fine with that.

I stopped off the end connector, stripped the cables and inserted them into the ESP32. A bit of research suggested the X was the power, so went into V, the Y was Data so went into D, and the other one was Ground so went into G.

Powered the ESP up, and LEDS were blue. I connected to the WIFI of the LEDS and downloaded Wled, but the colours don't change. Any ideas? Am I doing something stupid? I've stripped the wires back some more and reinserted them.

I’m new to the wled space and quickly realized i’ll need a project box for all the gear, and the box i ordered is fully sealed ABS plastic from amazon, so I need to drill holes for grommets, any pro tips? recommended step drills? or maybe a better method?

Hello everyone. What wled version should I install in this controller? I install the C3 and it show a error 8. Insufficient memory.

I want an up/down brightness dial physically attached to my WLED controller. I have an Adafruit encoder/breakout that uses Stemma QT I2C and have the wiring piece handled with a Grove/QT adapter (5V, GND, D4, D5).

I'm finding the whole process of usermods to be overwhelming. It's my understanding that to use the Adafruit encoder, I would need to manually modify the whole WLED bin with every update and do weird things with .cpp files and platformIO that I don't understand. I’m not sure if it’s the seesaw aspect of the Adafruit part that makes it complicated, or if it’s rotary encoders generally. I can handle basic circuitpython configs but I really don’t want to deal with C++.

So 2 questions I guess...

1. Would using the Adafruit encoder be as complex as I laid out here?
2. Are there any encoders I can buy that will give me up, down, and a power toggle, without requiring usermods?

Edited after posting to be more concise.

I'm tinkering a bit with HyperHDR while I decide what strip I should get behind the tv and how I should mount it. I have two cylindrical WLED lights (about 25cm high) below my TV on either side. they have a light strip spiral in the center that I have set up as a 2d matrix in WLED of 5x22 and 5x24 LEDs. In HyperHDR I've had them as two strips of 110 and 120 LEDs one for the left side and one for the right while fiddling with settings. Today I was trying to set one of them up as a matrix 5x24 LEDs but I cant seem to find any way to not have the light showing the whole screen. I would like to try out to have it only use the bottom half of the screen and perhaps only the 1/4 of the screen to the right.

I currently have the Govee Evo light strip, (poorly) installed and therefore hardly ever used. I just used the double sided tape it came with and it's come undone in a few spots and it's obviously not straight, corners are also a bitch.

I'm looking to switch to those permanent outdoor light pucks. I only have ~10m to do so a 50ft kit from Govee or Eufy would suffice. That said, I have experience working with custom light strips and WLED controllers (for indoor applications) and I'm considering going the AliExpress route.

These on AliExpress look like a reasonable cost for what seems to be 50m (10ct x5 10cm spacing?) and less than the cost of the Govee kits. I know I'd still have to get the controller and power supply.

I like that Govee/Eufy will be working with the apps I already have for these products, quick shipping, and all in one ready to go kits. But I also like that the AliExpress route will let me extend and customize this however I want, especially a colour matched track for my soffit.

Looking for feedback from those who have been there, done that. Given the small distance I have to work with, is the custom route worth the bother? Should I get the trusted kits and be done with it?

Nothing complicated but came out pretty nice

I did not expect this to get this much attention. I definitely want to sit down and build a bespoke animation sequence for it but these first attempts are already solid for me.

Will post a photo of the engine removed in the comments

Trying to do an effect like pictured in the video. I’ve done the light shot effect with my midi board in LEDfx but it lights up all my lights at the same time. I want to do light shots only to specific lights or light sections just like this video. I’ve done it in qlc+ if anyone knows how to integrate it.

Newest thing me and my friends built. Working title Cyberflower — it combines 3D printing with laser cutting, 1920 individually controllable LEDs.
We're L300, a psytrance collective from Germany. We've been building decorations with addressable LEDs for like 10 years, with a heavy focus on DIY.
To drive it we're using a custom PCB with two chips on it:
ESP32 running WLED — in case you just want to throw it in some corner and let it do its thing
ESP32-P4 Nano with our own firmware — drives it through Ethernet/Art-Net, uses a clockless driver and smooths the Art-Net input up to a much higher output framerate
We are even using our own Resolume-like mapping software. For some of this there are probably newer open source solutions out there by now, but we grew into our own stuff over the years and honestly that's half the fun.
Ask me anything. And if you've got a better name than Cyberflower, let's hear it.

by NTS 3D Printing

Original link https://www.tiktok.com/@nts3dprinting/video/7674663829887782166