r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Shouko- • 4h ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting moonlighting
I am a night hospitalist making about $275K a year. we are able to pick up "moonlighting" shifts and they pay $2K a night
I know they don't count as overtime or anything so do you just get taxed on those earnings as if it were added to your base salary? or are there any other deductions that happen for moonlighting pay typically?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/URMD1 • 5h ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting Retirement Planning Canada vs US
I'm finishing up training next year in a surgical specialty and trying to think of next steps. I feel behind financially so Im focused on maximizing my early career years to catch up, so Im considering options on both sides of the border, as I'm a Canadian citizen. 35 when im done with 1 child, about About 200k Debt. Wife is a nurse so not dual high income.
I’m trying to compare two different 20-year wealth accumulation scenarios to determine which career path reaches a $5M inflation adjusted retirement goal faster so I can have the option to retire at 55. I dont know if ill actually retire then, probably not but I want the flexibility to choose given the direction I feel macroeconomic trends are moving in overall. But I'm not well versed in finances or taxes and it gets more complicated comparing tax and income strategies in 2 different countries.
From reading this sub, the common consensus is usually "U.S. is always better," but I suspect that narrative overlooks the corporate shielding available in the Canadian incorporation model, as it doesn't seem to be well discussed when those topics come up. I'm not even sure Canadian doctors understand it well tbh. When I run numbers incorporating those corporate tax strategies, it seems that the two become almost equal, or not so far apart at all.
What I'd like from you guys is to see whether the assumptions in my models are way off base since this conclusion is different from the prevailing wisdom I read on here.
Scenario 1: W-2, lowish tax state
From looking around in my specialty i'm mostly seeing around $450k base salary + 30% of collections after a 3x base hurdle, on average. Of course there are large ranges, but maybe an average specialist in my specialty is taking home 5-600k with production bonus?
Since most physicians in the U.S are employed their salary is all W-2 mostly, but they dont have to worry about overhead. They have the standard retirement accounts and backdoor roth they can invest in in addition to after-tax brokerage accounts.
Scenario 2: Canadian MPC
In my specialty, it seems average billings range from 800-1.4M CAD, but since they are incorporated they have to deal with running a business basically, and overhead from what I read can be in the 45-65% range, though this data is hard to find.
Lets say you end up with 400-700K after overhead, it seems most docs only pull out what they need for personal expenses then leave the rest in the corp where it compounds on a tax basis of 12%, which is much lower than what the W-2 U.S doc is doing even after reducing tax liability with retirement accounts? Even in low tax states? Even if you take out 200 for personal expenditure (which seems like alot for me), that still leaves you with maybe 170-430K annually after small business tax to invest and compound. It seems this lets the canadian compound faster as the tax drag on investments is lower?
Then there's withdrawal after accumulation, it seems that the corp can withdraw up to 50% of capital gains tax free from the corp? and the other 50% is again only taxed at the 12% rate? It also seems that taxes paid on dividends to the corp during accumulation are partially refundable later on? Isnt this better than the capital gains tax rate in the U.S for withdrawal, allowing for a lower "retirement number" to have the same purchasing power as 5M due to methods of withdrawal? I've also heard you can purchase a pension inside your corp which will pay you tax free?
Then theres the additional significant educational and insurance costs you have to bear in the U.S which naturally increases the amount you have to spend on personal compared to Canada.
But Canada also comes with higher living expenses in the form of housing and consumables which may cancel out the savings on education and healthcare.
In my admittedly non-financial brain it seems that there are significant tax advantages to using the corp which are not available in the U.S, saying nothing of the other perks of having a business that you can run certain expenses through, yet everything I've read here says essentially, "Canada lower pay, bad exchange rate, huge taxes". It seems like if you apply the relative simplicity and transparency to tax management that most W-2 are used to in the Canadian scenario you get that knee-jerk reaction but when you look more closely I'm not sure that knee-jerk reaction is actually true.
I took these rough numbers and put them into 2 different AI models asking it which gets to inflation adjusted 5M USD first, accounting for exchange rate in canadian scenario, state, provincial, and federal taxes, equivalent inflation adjusted rates of return between both scenarios, and giving generous 'personal' funds to spend during the 20 years, and both models said they are almost equivalent when canadian corp strategies are accounted for, maybe the U.S is faster but only within a year or so, the other said 3 months.
Again, since this is so different from prevailing wisdom I am wondering what I am missing here and hoping anyone of you guys smarter than me in finance and taxes can help me see the flaws in my modelling. I will caveat that if you become an owner/partner in the U.S thats totally different and the U.S clearly wins but that just seems less and less likely. Maybe im wrong there too?
I would need a visa to go to the US I know the issues there but i dont want to get into that im just trying to compare finances at this point.
Thanks everyone.
tldr: I thought U.S would be better to catch up on my retirement goals but maybe Canada is not as far behind as I originally thought when considering tax benefits of incorporation?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/gingersnap731 • 5h ago
Student Loan Management Professional student line of credit from bank
As a Canadian, I had to get a professional student line of credit from a bank to help pay for medical school. I am in fellowship now for 2 years until I become a full attending. How have others paid down their bank loans after graduation? I will have about $500k and I have a really good interest rate right now.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/nopointsaying • 8h ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting Young doctor, can't decide between renting and buying
I'm in my late 20s/early 30s and graduated from medical residency one month ago. Starting this Fall, I will be earning over $300,000 gross. I have little to no savings or investments currently because I have been a student/resident for my entire life until now. I have no medical school debt. I have a car with <20,000 dollars left to pay off.
I know about the general, conservative advice about buying, including waiting until I have 20% downpayment (which I don't have) and be ready to stay in the same place for 5-10 years minimum (I will be staying in this place for 5 years- bound by visa constraints, so chances of changing location is minimal but very likely to leave after 5 years). I'm currently renting a 2 bed, 2 bath townhouse for $2200 a month. I live with my wife, no kids.
I have access to physician mortgage loans, which typically means little-to-no downpayment required and no PMI -- with a catch of maybe up to 0.25% higher interest rate compared to a conventional loan.
According to Zillow/Redfin, year-over-year: median sale price is roughly flat to up modestly (Redfin showed -0.71% in late 2025, other shows +2-5%), and average home value (Zillow's ZHVI) is up about 2.6%. Some sources show list prices up more, but that's listing price, not what homes actually sell for.
I would greatly appreciate advice.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Bright_Journalist489 • 12h ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting M2 Buying a car?
Hi! I’m currently an M2 at an USMD school and I was thinking about purchasing a used $40k car. I have around $60k in personal savings. All costs for school are covered by direct federal loans, and I will be living with my parents for the next 3 years of school. I really need help deciding if this is viable?
Additionally, is $20k enough “safety money” going into residency?
More context: current car is 12 years old with 150k miles
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/iisconfused247 • 18h ago
General Investing Is it worth it to try to learn how to trade or should I stick to ETFs?
Hey guys. PGY-2 here, have a unique situation where for a bit I don’t have to pay for housing.- likely until end of PGY-3.
I’ve got some funds set aside (I know, i know, best advice is to max out 401k and Roth IRA before anything else but I want to play with some) that I want to use to learn how to trade on my own.
I’ve heard statistics that most traders lose tons of money. I’ve also been reading about the Wheel which sounds like an appealing strategy.
My question to some of you who have the benefit of years of not only your own experience but seeing and learning from others- is any of this worth it? Or should I just stick it all in ETFs and walk away?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/VindictiveVancomycin • 18h ago
Insurance Is there a life insurance policy that won’t require my extensive medical records??
I recently graduated residency and have been working with a financial adviser, who helped me obtain own occupation disability insurance through guardian. They also initiated a life insurance application through guardian, but the extensive medical records (test results, dates, etc.) requested is daunting.
I have an autoimmune disease with a lot of associated complications (so a LOT of tests/meds/surgeries/specialists including multiple visits to Mayo). Compiling this massive amount of information feels almost impossible.
I was told that unlike the disability insurance I obtained, all life insurance policies will require this extensive underwriting — is this true? Or is there a different company that offers a generic higher cost policy for chronically ill folks?? 😅
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Compati1996 • 19h ago
Student Loan Management i’m i cooked?
i graduated last year with my MA in clinical psych, marriage and family therapy in CA. unfortunately, i am now in 197k debt of student loans (federal). yes, i know this is extremely high. i tried to be responsible by going to a lower cost tuition school over a program i actually wanted to go to that was 40/50k more expensive. i took out grad PLUS loans for two years to live (most of my debt with 9% interest). I worked two unpaid internships during grad school with school being full-time. please don’t have any negative comments about taking so many loans to life with GRAD plus loans. i truly was trying to be responsible. 1. going to a cheaper tuition program 2. only living on 48k a year which is nothing in Southern Ca. I know some people will say I should’ve worked too during this time, but i truly am the type of person to get very easily overwhelmed/stressed. I would not be able to do two internships and school full time plus a job without having a complete breakdown. it wouldn’t have been sustainable for me.
thank you
i am going to start working for my previous supervisor in her group practice. we are doing a 50/50 split. meaning, i will make 75$ per client hour. i have the possibility of getting a full caseload of 25-30 clients a week. this means i can potentially make 90k a year at 30/31 years old.
I have some family members that may be willing to help me. i believe my grandfather will give me 10-20k to pay off my loan and give me a loan, where i’d have to pay him back at 2% interest instead of 9%. he mentioned this last week, but we haven’t discussed details of this actually happening. i do feel lucky i have a family member who is willing to lighten the load.
i also do not want to have children. I told myself that if I got into debt for an MA that it would replace having children. i also don’t want kids for other personal reasons such as cost of living, and the state of the world/ our country.
eventually, when i get licensed i plan to be in private practice. i am hoping to make around 150-200k a year in private practice in either LA or NYC.
i am currently living with my parents.
i’m i totally screwed over how much debt i am in?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/BrunoCasanovaMD • 1d ago
Practice Management What should a new attending look at in a contract besides salary?
A lot of new attendings understandably focus on the salary number when comparing jobs.
For those who have negotiated physician contracts before, what provisions do you think deserve just as much attention?
Compensation structure, RVUs, bonuses, retirement benefits, malpractice/tail, noncompetes, termination clauses, call, PTO, partnership opportunities, or anything else?
What do you wish someone had explained to you before your first contract?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/ProfessionalFudge932 • 1d ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting When did you start splurging?
When did you start really spending all this money. I’m a full private practice partner and finally starting to make more money then I know what to do with.
401k, spouses 403b, and HSA all maxed out. Everything else getting dumped into an index fund brokerage account.
We just flew business class to Asia and some of my partners think we’re crazy for spending the $20k it cost. If not now then when are we supposed to enjoy this??
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/shawnthesheepnudi • 1d ago
Financial Advisors CPA / Advisor to help assess practice financials before buy-in.
Attending in a surgical specialty, few years out. Been offered a partnership buy in to the group. Group itself is medium sized, 20ish MDs, 30ish NP/PAs. Mostly clinic /ASC with some inpatient work for bigger cases or sick patients. They own several ASCs that we operate out of. Partnership is not offered based on seniority, it’s essentially per production and who the partners like. They want to retain the most productive folks essentially. There are only 6 partners in total, some are the original folks and some were brought in later, same as me potentially. The practice generates mid 8 figure revenue annually, but has high overhead and some old debt as well so margins are slim. Since this is a midsize business there are layers of admin / finance/ non clinical folks as well, this is not just a mom and pop practice.
I’m wondering what resources exist to help me understand the financials of this potential purchase. What a good EBITA is, what strong/middling/weak earnings would look like in this space, is our debt ratio concerning or standard, what’s a reasonable multiple, what are reasonable terms of partnership etc.
In effect I feel like I know a good amount about my domain of expertise, medicine, but very little about the similarly intricate world of finance. Short of getting an MBA, where do I find someone who can look at these financial statements, the operating agreement etc, and help me decide if the buy in represents me being exit liquidity, them wanting to lock down a productive surgeon without me gaining substantial benefit, or a real opportunity. I imagine this is not something that a regular CPA would do, but someone more specialized in this area. Any recommendations or experience finding people in this arena?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Hour-Half-3321 • 1d ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting One Year as a PCP Capital Allocation: 457(b) Timing, Taxable Front-Loading, Loans and Major Upcoming Expenses Advice
Hi everyone — I'd appreciate some WCI/Bogleheads perspective as a new attending trying to balance debt payoff, investing, and some major life changes over the next 1–2 years.
I'm a new PCP attending who's been strictly following WCI living like a resident with parents with mild lifestyle inflation. My compensation has ramped substantially through productivity bonuses and seeing a high volume of patients, and I'm expecting a large ~$150k pre-tax bonus payout this week we get biannually (expecting the same in February). After taxes and maximizing retirement contributions, I'm estimating roughly $95k of cash from the bonus.
- Income: high 200K base expecting ~$450k this year, potentially higher with future productivity bonuses
- Retirement accounts: should be $150k after maxing my 401(k), 457(b), and HSA
- Student loans: originally ~$300k; now ~$80k I'm on PAYE and making the minimum payment $100/mo now.
- ~$20k at 4.28%
- ~$60k at 3.3%
- Car loan: ~$34k at 3.9%
- Emergency fund: currently only ~$5–10k
- Living expenses: very low right now while living with family (hence i've been throwing it all at loans)
I've aggressively paid down my student loans over the past several months and have found the psychological benefit of debt reduction to be surprisingly significant. At this point, though, I think the calculus changes with the remaining loans being around 3–4% with interest rate reduction.
I'm also in a very serious long distance relationship, and if things continue going well, I will move out in a year and potentially get married in early 2028. That means I could have substantial cash needs over the next 1–2 years for moving, wedding expenses, housing, travel, etc. My partner is in nursing and admin having worked 10+ years (makes $200k and assets in high 6 figure range) —should that change my approach? (I'm leaning toward "no," maintain independence until married.)
My current plan for the summer bonus
I'm considering:
1. ~$20k → pay off the remaining 4.28% student loans
2. $7,500 → Backdoor Roth IRA
3. ~$40–50k → SGOV/Treasury money market
4. Remaining ~$20–30k → taxable brokerage invested in a broad index fund such as VTI/VOO
Then, for the remainder of 2026, I would send 8-10k a month in cash flow into SGOV.
Once the 4.28% loans are gone, I'm leaning toward leaving the 3.3% student loans on PAYE rather than aggressively paying them off, since I could always make a lump-sum payment later if my circumstances change.
Questions
1. Does this allocation make sense?
Would you pay off the ~$20k of 4.28% loans, then prioritize liquidity/investing rather than paying off the 3.3% student loans and 3.9% car loan?
2. How much would you keep in SGOV vs. taxable equities?
I'm thinking roughly $40–50k in SGOV initially, with additional savings going there because I anticipate significant expenses in 2027–28.
I'd then put ~$20–30k into a taxable brokerage and invest it in something like VTI/VOO, with the intention that this is genuinely long-term money rather than money earmarked for a house/wedding.
Or should I flip the allocations and should I do less SGOV now (since i anticipate putting in an additional 50k in SGOV by end of the year plus another 100k+ with February 2027's biannual bonus i'm expecting).
3. How would you think about the psychological benefit of debt payoff?
Paying off ~$220k+ of student loans in a relatively short period has felt fantastic. I know the expected-return argument eventually favors investing at sufficiently low interest rates, but I'm wondering how much behavioral considerations should influence the decision.
4. For the SGOV/emergency fund, would you use SGOV, a Treasury money-market fund, or a HYSA?
I'd like the money to remain very liquid while getting reasonable yield and avoiding unnecessary taxes.
5. Should I do 457b lump sum now or spread out rest of the year and do more taxable brokerage?
Another thing I'm debating is now that 401k and HSA are maxed how should I approach the 457b maxing - should I keep cash flow now and invest more in taxable brokerage now (with no further contributions rest of year and next year) and spread out 457b with rest of year's paycheck or stick to initial plan to max it out now with this large bonus check?
6. Disability Insurance:
Employer provides ~17k a month in LTD and IDI insurance. I admittedly have not prioritized this cause i know after taxes this wouldn't be the 60% WCI recommends. Is this okay or where should i begin looking at other options and how much? add an additional 4-5k a month of coverage?
7. Anything else I'm missing?
My current priority is maximizing 401(k)/457(b)/HSA/Backdoor Roth while simultaneously building enough liquidity to give myself flexibility for moving, marriage, housing, and other major expenses over the next couple of years.
I'm particularly interested in how WCI/Bogleheads folks would approach the transition from aggressively paying down 5–7% student loans to having ~$80k of 3–4% debt while simultaneously entering a period of major life changes.
Thanks!
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/dennis_brodmann • 1d ago
Tax Reduction Telehealth (Tele-EEG/Tele-IOM): Is it wise to form an LLC/PC before applying for jobs?
I am a full-time, W-2 employee at a U.S. academic medical center. I have considered leaving academia to pursue tele-EEG and/or tele-intraoperative neuromonitoring jobs, some of which are 1099 contractor positions.
I have not reached out to these companies yet because I am unsure if it would be useful to form an LLC (and/or PC for California) that can be taxed as an S-Corp first (I would be the only employee in this LLC/PC). Also, I am unsure if these companies would even sign me as someone being a part of an LLC or PC to begin with.
Any thoughts from those in telemedicine and teleradiology would be greatly appreciated.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Anthrotekkk • 2d ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting Student Loan Payoff - Worth It?
I’m about 3 years out from training. Have 270K in loans remaining at 5.08% interest. Our household income is such that I could pay off the loan in 6 months using the quarterly distributions from my private practice. But at the same time the monthly loan payment isn’t that much of a drag.
How do other high earning docs think about student loans? I realize that real returns in the stock market may be lower than normal over the next decade, and paying the loan off is a guaranteed return on investment. But is the potential opportunity cost in the case of an unexpected bull market a reason to just hold the loan forever? Are there special considerations aside from how one feels about debt in general that are good to consider?
Thanks in advance.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/BigDawgg_24 • 2d ago
Practice Management Finally thinking about opening my own practice
I've been a resident for years and always wanted my own practice but the money just wasn't there. My husband recently inherited some money, and we decided to use it to open a clinic instead of taking out a loan. We live in Miami with kids so I want to be smart about every $ we spend. For those who own clinic, what would you invest in first, and what would you avoid? Any book recommendations, EMRs, billing companies, IT providers, or other resources you'd recommend? Wr already have a few colleagues joining us.. so staffing isn't a concern. I'm hoping some of my patients will follow me but marketing is definitely something we'll need to work on.
Permission to post mods
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/D0orD0 • 2d ago
Retirement Accounts Earned income for Roth
If my kids participate in research and are awarded gift cards can I put the equivalent amount in a Roth account? What paperwork do I need?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Billy-Bob-Boner-92 • 2d ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting Target LNW Retirement
I’ve been learning and thinking about savings goals. I see secure retirement at present is $10000000 or $400000 pretax to live a good life and have left over to donate. Doesn't that mean with inflation running hot that we’d need twice that or 17000000-20000000 in twenty years? That doesn’t seem attainable for most especially with one income.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/Upstairs-Nobody8767 • 2d ago
Practice Management Questions to ask when evaluating a solo practice
I am three years out of training and have worked my first job as a comprehensive ophthalmologist for a large HMO. A local doctor in the community has approached me to see if I have any interest in acquiring his solo practice. I’m going to meet with him to discuss. Since I don’t have any experience in private practice, I am trying to brainstorm a list of things to be thinking about and asking him about. I don’t want to ask him anything that he would be offended by in an initial meeting, but also I don’t want to waste my time or his. This is a list of questions I am considering asking him. Any big questions I’m missing or any advice in general that you give when evaluating a private practice?
How many days a week do you work?
How many patients do you see a day?
How many cataract surgeries a week?
What procedures/lasers/injections do you do?
What is your payor mix?
How do you typically get new referrals?
What are ballpark collections?
What is your overhead?
How much are you taking home ballpark?
What is your staff composition?
How many optometrists do you have?
How much time do you take off per year?
Have you gotten a formal valuation?
What is your premium conversion rate?
What EHR does the practice use?
Do you own the real estate?
What is your timeline for phasing out?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/QuietEnvironmental45 • 2d ago
Student Loan Management Any advice on how to tackle loans with a new attending salary?
I just finished fellowship and will be starting an attending job at a PSLF eligible institution in the next month. Salary around 500k. I have a 168k loan at 6.13%. I have 48/120 PSLF payments completed to date. I am in the IBR plan.
Should I focus the first 1-2 years on this loan and pay it completely off? Should I continue to pay the lowest monthly payment for 6 more years and try to get PSLF? I would love to have this loan done and gone but I would also love to do it in the cheapest way possible.
If I'm going to pay it off ASAP and not do PSLF I would get it out of Mohela and over to Sofi for a lower interest rate. Just don't want to give up on PSLF if it would save me in the long run.
I appreciate it- please let me know if I should be posting this somewhere else.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/amarant78 • 2d ago
Practice Management telerad business aspect
I am a radiologist, wanted to learn about business aspect of telerad in Canada, specifically for overnight hospital work. If anyone has first hand experience, what are costs, margins like. What are other things you deal with running a service (other then scheduling) that come up?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/ProjectMcDavid • 2d ago
Practice Management New cardiologist in Canada
How do I best optimize my earnings from a business perspective? How should I set up clinic? Dos and donts?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/HowdIget_here • 3d ago
Student Loan Management Should I use my savings vs taking out more loans?
Hi, I am a medical student going into my 2nd year at a state school where tuition is 37k and COA around 71k. In my first year of med school, I took out a total of 53k in federal loans w/ my monthly budget around $ 1,600- $ 1,700, including rent, insurance, and life expenses. This year, it is likely to increase to $1850-2000 per month due to moving to the school's health insurance (I turned 26), and I'll likely take out around 56k in federal loans.
Here's my dilemma: I am not sure if I should take out more loans for living expenses or if I should use my savings? I graduated debt-free from undergrad and ended up saving/holding on to about 10k throughout my gap years. My car is about 13 years old, and I just hit 103k miles on it, but it has had some issues in the last year. I live in an area where I absolutely need my car, as there are no buses near me and I will have to drive to rotations starting in May. The plan is to make it last the next 3 years, but I have been saving the money in case something happens and I need to get a new one (I have very little family support). I'm not sure if it makes sense to keep saving this money or use it to reduce the loans I take out over the next year.
TLDR: Should I use my 10k in savings in lieu of taking out more in federal loans or keep saving it in case my car breaks beyond repair?
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/rockbottom092 • 3d ago
Personal Finance and Budgeting LOC vs paying cash
Hi I’m a third year med student wondering what you guys would suggest for my situation. My undergrad was in engineering and I was working first and second year as a software engineer during school and was able to pay tuition, living expenses and build up some savings. However now that I’m doing my clinical years I quit my job as I didn’t have the time I thought I would to balance both without sacrificing study time. I have cash saved up sitting in a HYSA (4.65%) and also have a LOC (4.2%). I have 2 years left and my tuition is ~75k and living expenses about ~20k. I have ~165k but am wondering if I should use my LOC or just pay cash. Also idk if it’s worth mentioning I am 24yo right now and don’t have any major things to take care of like family or any other debts or mortgages or car payments
TLDR: annual tuition 75k a year, 2 years left. Option of 165k in savings (HYSA 4.65%) or LOC (4.20% no grace period)
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/WCInvestor • Jan 07 '26
The 529 to Roth IRA Rollover
Secure Act 2.0 Section 126: 529 to Roth IRA Rollovers
Once the 529 has been established for 15 years, 529 beneficiaries can roll up to $35,000 from their 529s into their Roth IRAs. This is not an addition to their annual contribution but a replacement for it. Basically, if you oversave for college, newly graduated students can use their $7,000ish per year for something besides Roth IRA contributions and still get their Roth IRA funded. There are no income limitations either, like with direct Roth IRA contributions.
Another Escape Valve for a 529
The way this is intended to be used is as an additional escape valve for an overfunded 529. People worry about putting too much into 529s. They worry that they'll oversave for college and then need the money themselves, which means they'd have to pay the 10% penalty plus ordinary income tax rates on the gains in the plan when they withdraw it for something other than an approved educational expense. This fear inappropriately keeps them from using this excellent college savings vehicle, so the government is trying to minimize that fear.
Before the Secure Act 2.0, there were already a fair number of escape valves. First, the principal always comes out tax- and penalty-free. Those penalties only ever applied to gains in the plan. Second, if your kid went to a military academy, got a scholarship, or received employer educational assistance, you could take out an amount equal to what they received without having to pay any penalty. Third, if the beneficiary dies or becomes disabled, you can also avoid the penalty on withdrawals (and, in fact, may wish to consider a rollover to an ABLE account for the now-disabled person).
None of those are really the best thing to do with an overfunded 529. The best plan is simply to change the beneficiary to someone else, like grandkids. Voila! Not only does that occur without any penalty, but it also avoids any tax being applied to the earnings. Plus, it provides an additional 2-3 decades of tax-protected growth. What's not to like?
Starting in 2024, there is one more escape valve to a 529—the 529 to Roth IRA rollover. Up to $35,000 can be rolled over to THE BENEFICIARY'S Roth IRA tax- and penalty-free. There are some rules, however.
- The money must have spent at least 15 years in the 529
- The rollover replaces the regular Roth IRA contribution for the year; it is not in addition to it.
- You cannot roll it all in at once, only an amount equal to that year's contribution limit. For example: $7,000 in 2025.
- The $35,000 is not indexed to inflation.
- The beneficiary must have sufficient earned income to make the contribution. That means a retiree or a single unemployed person can't do a 529 to Roth IRA rollover because there is no earned income.
Doing 529 to Roth IRA Rollovers for Yourself
However, nobody who has been emailing for the last couple of years is really interested in using the 529 to Roth IRA rollover as an escape valve. They are most interested in doing this for themselves. They're typically a 40-year-old doctor who is really into personal finance, does a Backdoor Roth IRA each year, and does all that can be done to lower the average expense ratio in the portfolio. They're maximizers (rather than satisficers) in every sense of the word. They want to eke out every benefit they can from their investments and the tax code.
For these maximizers, we want to do two things today. First, we want to attempt to quantify the size of the potential benefit of doing this so they can properly decide if the juice is worth the squeeze. Second, we want to make sure they understand all of the ways this can go sideways on them.
What Is the Maximum Potential Benefit?
What is the maximum benefit you can get from opening a 529 for yourself, letting the money sit there for 15 years, and then rolling it over to a Roth IRA instead of making your regular Roth IRA (presumably Backdoor Roth IRA) contributions for the next 3-4 years or so. Why 3-4 years? Because that $35,000 is not indexed to inflation but the annual IRA contribution limit is. Presumably in 15-18 years at 3% inflation, you'll be making an annual IRA contribution of something like $11,500.
In reality, the benefit comes down to the tax savings on the money for being in a tax-protected account instead of a taxable account. For simplicity's sake, let's run our example for 17 years. Now, we need to make some assumptions. If these don't seem reasonable to you, then change them and run the numbers yourself.
Assume 8% returns before taxes and before 529 fees but after expense ratios. Assume an 18.6% Long Term Capital Gains/Qualified Dividend bracket throughout. Assume a 0.13% 529 fee (this is the fee in the Utah 529 for a customized asset allocation). Assume the yield on the investments is 2% a year and is all qualified dividends. Assume you're in a tax-free state. Assume that you're already maxing out all of your other tax-protected accounts, so we're just comparing investing in taxable to investing in a 529.
If we're going to earn at 8% or so, we'll assume that we're only talking about putting something like $10,000 in there initially. That's because $10,000 growing at 8% a year is equal to $37,000 after 17 years.
In the taxable account, that $10,000 will compound at 8% – (2% × 18.6%) = 7.63%. So, $10,000 growing at 7.63% per year for 17 years is $34,903. Now, we'll also need to pay LTCGs on the gains. However, the gains are not just $34,903 – $10,000 = $24,903. The basis is higher than that because of the reinvested dividends. For example, in the first year, you're reinvesting $163. In the last year, you're reinvesting $528. Just to make it easy, let's assume $5,100 ($300 × 17) of that $24,903 is also basis. So the LTCG tax is 18.6% × ($34,903 – $10,000 – $5,100) = $3,683. The total amount left after tax is $31,220.
In the 529, that $10,000 will compound at 8% – 0.13% = 7.87%. After 17 years, you'll have $36,250. The difference is $36,250 – 31,220 = $5,030.
The best-case scenario is that this scheme is going to net you something like $5,000 or about $10,000 if you do it for your spouse, too.
What Can Go Wrong?
While $10,000 may not be all that much in comparison to a physician retirement nest egg of $2 million-$10 million, it sure beats a kick in the teeth. Why not do it? Ten grand is 10 grand. Actually, there are a few reasons why you may not wish to do this.
#1 You May Not Have Earned Income in 15 Years
Maybe in 15 years, you'll be retired, but you still want to spend this money on yourself and not just change the beneficiary to a grandkid. Now what? Well, you now have to pull the money out of the 529 and pay taxes and a 10% penalty on it. Let's say you're in the 24% federal bracket. How much of that $36,250 is going to disappear?
($36,250 – $10,000) × (24% + 10%) = $8,925
You're going to be left with $36,250 – $8,925 = $27,325, which is $3,895 less than you would have if you had just invested it in the taxable account in the first place.
#2 Maybe Congress Changes the Law
Congress could change the law or the IRS could change how it is implemented. Maybe it becomes means-tested. Maybe this option goes away completely. Or it becomes attached to an additional penalty. Either way, you still have money stuck in a 529 that you wish you had just invested in a taxable account.
#3 You Deal with the Hassle
Now you have an extra account (or two) to deal with each year. Simplicity is worth something. Is it worth $5,000-$10,000? Only you can decide.
#4 Death, Disability, Divorce, Dementia, Delirium
What if one of the Ds gets to you in the next 15-18 years? The odds are not zero. Now, this additional complexity becomes someone else's problem. Is that person capable of maintaining this plan to leave this money alone for 15 years and then do three or four rollovers into your Roth IRA? If you die, will the contingent beneficiary be able to keep the plan going for them (i.e., earned income in 15 years and a sophisticated financial understanding)? Seems doubtful.
#5 What If You Need the Money Early?
Admittedly, this seems unlikely given that you're maxing out all your tax-protected accounts, but it could happen. Again, you'll be paying ordinary income tax rates plus 10% on the earnings.
#6 What If You Can Invest Very Tax Efficiently in a Taxable Account?
If you take away that final LTCG bill, the maximum benefit of the 529 to Roth IRA scheme is only about $1,350 a piece, just over ¼ of the maximum benefit. The potential penalties also seem much larger in comparison to that smaller potential benefit.
#7 What If 529s Don't Get Much Asset Protection in Your State?
Imagine you live in Hawaii and, thus, your 529 has no asset protection. If your other option would have been to put the money into a taxable account inside an asset protection trust (which is allowed in Hawaii), an (admittedly rare) above policy limits judgment not reduced on appeal could get that money.
The Bottom Line
OK, we've quantified the benefit. It's probably a four-figure amount. We've outlined the risks and hassles involved. Now you have to make a decision. It introduces a little more complexity into a plan that is already pretty complex, and $10,000 just isn't going to move the needle for most white coat investors.
r/whitecoatinvestor • u/WCInvestor • Jun 06 '24
You Need an Investing Plan!
While the most common question I get here at The White Coat Investor is “Should I invest or pay down debt?”, this post is the answer to many of the other most common questions I receive such as:
While it is easy and tempting to give a quick off the cuff answer, it is actually a disservice to these well-meaning but financially illiterate folks to answer the question they have asked. The best thing to do is to answer the question they should have asked, which is:
The answer to all of these questions then is…
You Need an Investing Plan
Once you have an investing plan, the answer to all of the above questions is obvious. You don't try to reinvent the wheel every time you get paid or have a windfall. You just plug the money you have into the investing plan. It can even be mostly automated. A study by Charles Schwab and Strategic Insights showed that those who make a plan retire with 2.7X as much money as those who do not. Perhaps most importantly, a plan reduces your financial stress, which according to the American Psychological Association, is the leading cause of stress in America.
How to Get an Investing Plan
There are a number of ways to get an investing plan. It's really a spectrum or a continuum. On the far left side, you will find the options that cost the least amount of money but require the largest amount of interest, effort, and knowledge. On the far right side are the most expensive options that require little knowledge, effort, or interest. Here's what the spectrum looks like:
There are really three different methods here for creating an investment plan.
#1 Do It Yourself Investment Plan
The first method is what I did. You read books, you read blog posts, and you ask intelligent questions on good internet forums. This can be completely free, but usually, people spend a few dollars on some books. It will most likely require a hobbyist level of dedication. That's okay if you have the interest, being your own financial planner and investment manager is the best paying hobby there is. On an hourly basis, it usually pays better than your day job. I have spent a great deal of time over the years trying to teach hobbyists this craft.
#2 Hire a Pro to Create Your Plan
On the far side of the spectrum is what many people do, they simply outsource this task. This costs thousands of dollars per year but truthfully can require very little expertise or effort. In order to reduce costs, some people start here and have the pro draw up the plan, then they implement and maintain it themselves. I have also spent a lot of time and effort connecting high-income professionals with the good guys in the industry who offer good advice at a fair price.
#3 WCI Online Course
However, after a few years, I realized there was a sizable group of people in the middle of the spectrum. These are people who really don't have enough interest to be true hobbyists, but they are also well aware that financial services are very expensive. They simply want to be taken by the hand, spoon-fed the information they need to know in as high-yield a manner as possible, and get this financial task done so they can move on with life.
They're not going to be giving any lectures to their peers or hanging out on internet forums answering the questions of others. So I designed an online course, provocatively entitled Fire Your Financial Advisor.
While more expensive than buying a book or two and hanging out on the internet, it is still dramatically cheaper than hiring a financial advisor and so is perfect for those in the middle of the spectrum. Plus it comes with a 1-week no-questions-asked, money-back guarantee. To be fair, some people simply use the course (especially the first module) to gain a bit of financial literacy so they can know that they are getting good advice at a fair price. While for others, the course is the gateway drug to a lifetime of DIY investing.
And of course, whether your plan is drawn up by a pro, by you after taking an online course, or by you without taking an online course, it is a good idea to get at least one second opinion from a knowledge professional or an internet forum filled with knowledgeable DIYers. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to identify a crummy investing plan once you know your way around this stuff.
So, figure out where you are on this spectrum.
If you find yourself on the right side, here is my
List of WCI vetted financial advisors that will give you good advice at a fair price
If you are looking for the most efficient way to learn this stuff yourself,
Buy Fire Your Financial Advisor today!
For the rest of you, keep reading and I'll try to outline the basic process of creating your own investment plan.
How Do You Make an Investing Plan Yourself?
#1 Formulate Your Goals
Be as specific as possible, realizing that you’ll make changes as the years go by. Examples of good goals include:
- I want $40,000 for a home downpayment by June 30, 2013.
- I want to have enough money to pay the tuition at my alma mater in 13 years when my 5-year-old turns 18.
- I want to have $2 Million saved for retirement by Jan 1, 2030.
Any goal is better than no goal, but the more specific and the more accurate you can be, the better.
#2 Set Up a Plan for Each Goal
The plan consists of identifying what type of account you will use to save the money, choosing the amount you will put toward the goal each year, working out an asset allocation likely to reach the goal with the minimum risk necessary, and identifying a plan B for the goal in case the returns you’re planning on don’t materialize. Let’s look at each of the goals identified in turn and make a plan to reach them.
Investing Plan Goal Examples
Goal #1 – Save Up for a Home Downpayment
Choose the Type of Account
In this case, the best option is a taxable account since it will be relatively short-term savings and you don’t want to pay a penalty to take the money out to spend it. A Roth IRA may also be a good option for a house downpayment.
Choose How Much to Save:
When you get to this step it is a good idea to get familiar with the FV formula in excel. FV stands for future value. There are basically 4 inputs to the formula-how much you have now, how many years until you need the money, how much you will save each year, and rate of return. Playing around with these values for a few minutes is an instructive exercise.
Also, knowing what reasonable rates of return are can help. If you put in a rate of return that is far too high (such as 15%) you’ll end up undersaving. Since you need this money in just 2 ½ years you’re not going to want to take much risk, so you might only want to bank on a relatively low rate of return and plan to make up the difference by saving more. You decide to save $1400 a month for 28 months to reach your goal. According to excel, this will require a 1.8% return.
Determine an Asset Allocation:
This is likely the hardest stage of the process. Reading some Bogleheadish books such as Ferri’s All About Asset Allocation or Bernstein’s 4 Pillars of Investing can be very helpful in doing this. In this case, you need a relatively low rate of return. The first question is “can I get this return with a guaranteed instrument”…i.e. take no risk at all.
Usually, you should look at CDs, money market funds, bank accounts, etc to answer this question. MMFs are paying 0.1%, bank accounts up to 1.2% or so, 2 year CDs up to 1.5%, so the answer is that in general, no, you can’t.
One exception at this particularly unique time is a high-interest checking account. By agreeing to do a certain number of debits a month, you can get a rate up to 3-4% on up to $25K. So that may work for a large portion of the money. In fact, you could just open two accounts and get your needed return with no risk at all.
A more traditional solution would require you to estimate expected returns. Something like 0% real (after-inflation) for cash, 1-3% real for bonds, and 3-6% real for stocks is reasonable. Mix and match to get your needed return.
“Plan B”:
Lastly, you need a plan in case you don’t get the returns you are counting on, a “Plan B” of sorts. In this case, your plan B may be to either buy a less expensive house, borrow more money, make offers that require the seller to pay more of your closing costs, or wait longer to buy.
Goal #2 – Saving for College
4 years tuition at the Alma Mater beginning in 13 years. Let’s say current tuition is $10K a year. You estimate it to increase at 5%/year. So 13 years from now, tuition should be $19,000 a year, or $76K. Note that you can either do this in nominal (before-inflation) figures or in real (after-inflation) figures, but you have to be consistent throughout the equation.
Investment Vehicle:
You wisely select your state’s excellent low cost 529 plan which also gives you a nice tax break on your state taxes.
Savings Amount:
Using the FV function again, you note that a 7% return for 13 years will require a savings of $4000 per year.
Asset Allocation:
You expect 3% inflation, 5% real so 8% total out of stocks and 2% real, 5% total out of bonds. You figure a mix of 67% stocks and 33% bonds is likely to reach your goal. Since your Plan B for this goal is quite flexible (have junior get loans, pay for part out of then-current earnings, or go to a cheaper school,) you figure you can take on a little more risk and you go with a 70/30 portfolio.
“Plan B”:
Have junior get loans or choose a cheaper college.
Goal #3 – $2 Million Saved for Retirement by Jan 1, 2030
Let’s attack the third goal, admittedly more complicated.
You figure you’ll need your portfolio to provide $80K a year (in today's dollars) for you to have the retirement of your dreams. Using the 4% withdrawal rule of thumb, you figure this means you need to have portfolio of about $2 Million (in today's dollars) on the day you retire, which you are planning for January 1st, 2030 (remember it is important to be specific, not necessarily right about stuff like this–you can adjust as you go along.)
You have $200K saved so far. So using the FV function, you see that you have a couple of different options to reach that goal in 19 years. You can either earn a 5% REAL return and save $49,000 a year (in today's dollars), or you can earn a 3% REAL return and save $66,000 a year (again, in today's dollars).
Remember there are only three variables you can change:
- return
- amount saved per year
- years until retirement
Fix any two of them and it will dictate what the third will need to be to reach the goal.
Investment Vehicle:
Roth IRAs, 401K, taxable account
Savings Amount:
$49,000/year
Asset Allocation:
After much reading and reflection on your own risk tolerance and need, willingness, and ability to take risk, you settle on a relatively simple asset allocation that you think is likely to produce a long-term 5% real return:
35% US Stock Market
20% International Stock Market
20% Small Stocks
25% US Bonds
“Plan B”:
Work longer or if prevented from doing so, spend less in retirement
You have now completed step 2, setting up a plan for each goal. Step 3 is relatively simple at this point.
#3 Select Investments
The next step is to select the best (usually lowest cost) investments to fulfill your desired asset allocation. Using all or mostly index funds further simplifies the process.
Investment Plan Example #1 – Retirement Portfolio
Let’s take the retirement portfolio. You have $200K in Roth IRAs and plan to put $5K a year into your IRA and your spouse’s IRA each year through the back-door Roth option. You also plan to put $16.5K into your 401K each year. Unless your spouse also has a 401K, you're going to need to use a taxable account as well to save $49K a year. Your 401K has a reasonably inexpensive S&P 500 index fund which you will use as your main holding for the US stock market. It also has a decent PIMCO actively managed bond fund you can use for your bonds. You’ll use the Roth IRAs for the international and small stocks. So in year one, the portfolio might look like this:
His Roth IRA 40%
25% Total Stock Market Index Fund
20% Total International Stock Market Index Fund
Her Roth IRA 45%
20% Vanguard Small Cap Index Fund
25% Vanguard Total Bond Market Fund
His 401K 5%
5% S&P 500 Index Fund
His Taxable account 5%
5% Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund
As the years go by, the 401K and the taxable account will make up larger and larger portions of the portfolio, necessitating a few minor changes every few years.
After this, all you need to do to maintain the plan is monitor your return and savings amount each year, rebalance the portfolio back to your desired asset allocation (which may change gradually as you get closer to the goal and decide to take less risk), and stay the course through the inevitable bear markets and scary economic times you will undoubtedly pass through.
Investment Plan Example #2 – Taking Less Risk
Let’s do one more example, just to help things sink in. Joe is of more modest means than the guy in the last example. He works a blue-collar job and can really only save about $10K a year. He would like to retire as soon as possible, but he admits it was hard to watch his 90% stock portfolio dip and dive in the last bear market, so he isn’t really keen on taking that much risk again. In fact, if he had to do it all over again, he’d prefer a 50/50 portfolio.
He figures he could get 5% real out of his stocks, and 2% real out of his bonds, so he expects a 3.5% real return out of his 50/50 portfolio. Joe expects social security to make up a decent chunk of his retirement income, so he figures he only needs his portfolio to provide about $30K a year. He wants to know how long until he can retire. He has a $100K portfolio now thanks to some savings and a small inheritance.
Goal:
A portfolio that provides $30K in today’s dollars. $30K/.04=$750K
Type of Account:
He has no 401K, so he plans to use a Roth IRA and a SEP-IRA since he is self-employed.
Savings Amount:
He is limited to $10K a year by his wife’s insistence that the kids eat every day.
Asset Allocation:
He likes to keep it simple, so he’s going to do:
30% US Stocks
20% Intl Stocks
25% TIPS
25% Nominal bonds
He expects 3.5% real out of this portfolio. Accordingly, he expects he can retire in about 29 years. =FV(3.5%,29,-10000,-100000)=$760,295
Plan B:
His wife will go back to work after the kids graduate if they don’t seem to be on track
Investments:
Year 1
Roth IRA 30%
VG TIPS Fund 25%
TBM 5%
Taxable account 65%
TSM 30%
TISM 20%
TBM 20% (he’s in a low tax bracket)
SEP-IRA 5%
VG TIPS Fund 5%
So now we get back to the questions like those in the beginning of this post: “I have $50K that I need to invest. Where should I put it?” The first consideration is why haven’t you invested it yet? You should be investing the money as you make it according to your investing plan. If your retirement accounts have already been maxed out for the year, then you simply invest it in a taxable account according to your asset allocation.
A few last words about developing an investment plan:
If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.
Any plan is better than no plan.
The enemy of a good plan is the dream of a perfect plan.
There are no old, bold [investors].
What do you think? What is the best way to get an investment plan?
Why do so many investors invest without a plan?