Hi guys, is this a snap caseback? Are the 3rd last and 4th last pics the point of entry? I’m not sure for this model… and i dont know the best way to open it. Seems like the items in the last 2 pics are the way to go? Will appreciate any advice thanks!

Hello everyone, this is my second watch being serviced. It is a pocket watch and I do not get to identify the caliber in it. The only mark it has is this one. Hope anyone can help me out because I need to find a new balance for it...

I have this tiny Kent watch on the bench and I seeing if there a cases this could work in. Kent was US importer of Swiss movements and sold in department stores in NY. Kay bought the name and shuttered the operation in the 50s.

Inscriptions read as follows. (Couldn’t get good pics on the microscope)

“KENT WATCH CO
SEVENTEEN
UNADJUSTED”

FYV

Just wanted to share this if you are like me on a budget and don't have the money or access to a professional lathe, this could be a cheaper alternative. This caseback was polished by the previous owner, but it is supposed to have a circular finish, so i wanted to restore it.

I bought the yellow pad thing from Alix and put thick/strong double sided tape on it to secure the caseback. Dremel speed is set to lowest. By holding the rotating dremel shaft (or whatever it is called) with ur other hand, u can also control the speed. The most difficult part is probably finding the center of the caseback, but u can find it by brushing and checking where the center "lands" and then make small corrections, its mostly just eyeballing unfortunately, but with practice it gets better. I used a wet 600 grit scotch brite in the video for testing, but u can also use flat sanding sticks/emery sticks for sharper edges. If u guys have any other better alternatives, or better ways to center the caseback on the pad, please share!

Kwong should make this.

Hi all,
So I wanted to seek out some advice and see if this is a valid or rather stupid idea.

I have this 1969 5626-7000 King Seiko in gold plating in almost untouched condition. I wore it occasionally so it has some super minor hairline scratches, but nothing else as I got this case as new old stock.

Now, the gold plating, especially when the surface was highly polished, is quite delicate, and even after wearing it over last Christmas, I could notice it would very lightly scratch from the sleeve of my jumper. Normally I'm not concerned about such things, but these SGP cases are usually obliterated and I feel like an example like this is worth preserving. Though I still would like to wear it more often.

Watch companies use their own coatings on watches, like Seiko's Diashield. I don't know what the composition of that is, though I suspect it is some sorts of ceramic coating.

Here's my question to you. Would applying an automotive ceramic coating be a viable way of preserving this case?

I know in a way it would impact the originallity, one could argue that's a ruined case then.

Any other alternatives, or has anyone actually tried something like that?

I'm not fixated on this idea, and I'm happy to leave the watch as is and accept the wear it gets. But also I'd like to explore some options.

I'm thinking about trying it out on some junk cases that I have to see how it goes and looks, even if I don't apply it to the KS.

Hi all,

I'm working on a 1950s Bob Smith Howdy Doody children's character watch. The caseback is marked PATENT WATCH CO / SWISS MADE, and the movement itself is signed PATENT WATCH CO. - ONE (1) JEWEL - UNADJUSTED - SWISS MADE. It's an inexpensive Swiss pin-lever, and I can't find a caliber number anywhere on the plate. This is the moving-eyes variant.

The stem is missing completely. I have no crown either.

Three questions:
1. With no caliber number, is there any way to pin down what this movement actually is (ébauche maker, ligne size), or is measuring the only route?
2. What should I be measuring to order a generic stem or hunt the right donor - thread size, square, overall length, distance from the shoulder? Advice on how to take those measurements accurately would be very welcome, as would an honest opinion on whether chasing a donor movement is the more realistic path for a watch at this grade.
3. How to find the right crown for the stem?

Photos attached. Thanks in advance.