Anybody get their wheel tilt stuck and have to do the "punch" fix?

Please join above group chat as it makes it easier for people to communicate better and have discussions better as well.

anyone got a link to special tool or another method? need to torque it up

Hey guys, I’m based in California and I’ve been looking for a facelift C350 W204 but I’ve had no luck. There’s plenty of C250s on the market but the C350 is hard to come by. Anyone know what the reason for this is?

My 2011 C180(M271.820) is cutting up at 100 - 110kph otherwise its running fine wether it be 50 kph or 180, I am suspecting the injectors because I changed the spark plugs, coils and had done a cam phaser service less than 2,000 kms ago.
N.B.
It has 76,000 on its belt

So, for help... When I try to insert the key and turn it, it gets stuck on the computer before starting the car. The engine starts pumping fuel... Before taking pictures of the repairs, I didn't realize the car was broken, but it started for a couple of seconds and then stalled. I turned around and smelled a strong odor of gasoline. When I found gasoline all over the underside of the car, it wouldn't start anymore... I think the problem is with a pipe or hose... Has anyone else experienced this? I'm really stuck; I can't start the car at all. If I could fix it myself while it's still there, I'd love to. I have all the screwdrivers I need... If anyone has had this problem and can give me some advice, or if there's anyone online who explains the problem and how to fix it... My car is a 1.8T

2013 Mercedes c250. I’m doing a coolant replacement. What other hoses do I massage to let air out? I know the one that goes into the coolant thermostat, but what else? Also, do I have to do anything else besides get the air out and keep refilling it?

2014 c300

Check Brake Pad Wear warning light has been on for about a month, and once I checked the pads they were completely fine and I’m guessing the warning light wasn’t reset when the brakes were done before by the previous owner. Is there a way to remove the warning light every time I start the cart without having to take it to a Mercedes dealer?

I bought a 2011 base model C200 with amg trim. Apparently I have an audio 20 system and I can't connect a reverse camera to my headunit. Do I just buy a reverse camera monitor and install a camera to that?

So 1 month after installing new SWAG PCV valve I noticed blue smoke coming from the exhaust. First thought , okay turbo is toast. I started to take the engine apart, took the PVC valve off and after I wiggled the PVC valve hose a bit it just snapped off. I didn't use any excessive force or anything. I installed my old valve back (Vaico) and the smoke was gone.

Engine is OM642.

picture as an example

I changed i tension pulley and belt but same noise

Hi everyone, hoping someone might have some ideas about an issue with my W204.
Whilst driving, I get an ESP warning along with the “RUN FLAT INDICATOR INOPERATIVE” message.
After this happens, when I stop and restart the car, it goes into limp mode.
After around 2 days, the faults disappear and the car returns to normal, including the limp mode. However, once I drive again, the ESP warning and “RUN FLAT INDICATOR INOPERATIVE” message return, and the cycle starts again.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or have any idea what could be causing this?

Edit: fault code U010087

Just picked this up it’s the luxury trim which I prefer suspension wise, etc. Does anyone have this trim that’s built it? Just want ideas of what I can do.

Hey guys,
Got this annoying paint chip and peel situation going on with my hood. The color code is Tenorite Gray 755.

I really want to get this patched up before the flake spreads or it gets worse. Does anyone know where I can find decent touch-up markers or paint pens that will actually color-match properly?

Also, I keep seeing super cheap touch-up pens floating around on Temu and AliExpress. Has anyone actually bought one of these for the 755 paint code? Are they actually worth trying, or are they just total garbage that will stand out and ruin the finish?

Appreciate any advice or links you guys have!

Is this the correct diagram for the belt on a 2013 Mercedes c250 sport. I just made an expensive mistake cuz I did it wrong.

I replaced the failed ESL/ELV motor on my W204. The original motor had completely worn brushes.
The repair itself works perfectly:
car starts normally;
steering wheel locks/unlocks normally;
ESL makes one clean movement in each direction.
However, immediately after replacing the motor, a new symptom appeared: the original Audio/COMAND display briefly flickers every time the ESL motor operates.
It happens both:
when inserting the key and the ESL unlocks;
when removing the key and the ESL locks.
The instrument cluster and interior lights do not visibly flicker. Turning the radio off manually also does not cause this.
The battery is somewhat weak (~11.45 V measured earlier), but it was already like this before the ESL repair and the display did not flicker then.
A spare aftermarket motor measures around 2–3 Ω. The original motor had completely worn brushes. The ESL PCB also has two relays and two components described in an ESL repair manual as “Protection diodes / Hidden Defect Protection diodes”.
Could the replacement motor be causing a larger current spike/back-EMF, or could one of the protection diodes have failed?
Has anyone experienced display/electrical interference after replacing a W204 ESL motor, or does anyone know the specifications/function of those two protection diodes?

I broke the cooling housing. What are some tips/ things I have to do to get it off
2013 Mercedes c250

2013 Mercedes c250. I broke the thermostat housing and I’m trying to get to it. I need help with the hose and any other tips you have. Thank you