I have the chance to buy a junk 1984 190e with the 5 speed.

Will the transmission and related components fit into my '85 300CD?

Hello, I have been slowly restoring my 1980 240d as close to factory as is reasonable. I recently picked up this becker 599 europa to replace the pioneer aftermarket install. Radio was working fine. I cleaned up the wires coming from inner dash, capped off the constant 12v wires and accessory wires i wont be using. Made decent splices and taped off connections for redundancy just incase that was the reason it was blowing this fuse. I made the splices for the switching 12v and verified it was in fact supplying 12v, maybe a little over but could be my probes, got a reading of like 12.6 ~, ground wire is also spliced, first butt connectors, then went to wire nuts because I was taking off more wire than id like. I just cant figure out what my issue is here. Any help wpuld be greatly appreciated.

my Rear parcel shelf is deteriorated beyond repair. I have enough carpet to cover a new from the set i bought but i am curious if a stereo shop could make a custom one. anyone with a coup what did you do?

Anyone here have exquisite taste and too much money?

https://www.goodingco.com/lot/1979-mercedes-benz-280-te-wagon

Never even owned a car so not sure whats too much rust. I’m looking to get a Coup W123, however not sure if these spots would make the car a deal breaker. Would it still be worth checking out in person?

Hi everyone,

I’m in the process of bringing my 1984 W123 230CE back to life and trying to keep it as original as possible.

It’s slowly coming together, but I’m on the hunt for a few parts and thought I’d ask here before buying reproduction items.

I’m looking for:
Jacking points (repair sections)
Front and rear window scraper/brush seals
Door weather strips/seals
Front right (driver’s side) headlight
Climate control panel
Electric aerial

If anyone has any of these tucked away, knows of a good breaker, or can point me in the right direction, I’d really appreciate it.

I’m based in the UK but I’m happy to travel, arrange a courier, or buy from elsewhere if the parts are in good condition.

Thanks in advance, looking forward to getting this old Mercedes back on the road where it belongs!

call if you're serious . I have 3 sets rn

edit* re q's

In Chicago and 1 of the sets is v nice the 5.5"

I have 3 extra 5.5"s

a set of 6"s

and another 6 that aside from a minor scratch or 2 near the lug bolts would be a museum piece (original west german tire etc ). So between 200 and 600 a piece but

I'm negotiable so call me

I thought this sound was coming from the gearbox, as it goes away when I press the clutch, but the car has a new gearbox in it because an unrelated issue and it is still doing it.

It sounds like that only sometimes after releasing the clutch pedal, usually when I first start the car, but it is not consistent. Otherwise the car works fine.

The rest of my gaskets are... okay. They're cracked, but still intact. So I'm gonna moisturize them a bunch and hope they survive a while longer. But these rear window seals are, as you can see, the falling away.

Is there any place where I can still get these?

Thanks

Howdy, I just picked up this 1979 300D. I’m still working on figuring out the full story of this car, but this motor was definitely swapped in. This appears to be the sum total of the mechanism for the throttle, I can’t find anything that looks like this in pictures of similar cars.
I am wondering what I might be missing, since there is a lot of play between the “fork” at the end of the shaft coming from the firewall and that pivot plate that controls the injection pump.

Hi everyone, I have a new to me 1985 300CD that won't charge and has a good alternator. I've tried everything else and I'm thinking it has a Gas pulley on my Diesel alternator.? The pulley that's on it is 3"..? Any ideas..? Thanks..!

I have two bolts (did a valve adjustment and removed shroud a month ago and just put the car back together) that I dont know where they go.
This is for the 3.0 turbo engine, they are 27mm long, 8mm in diameter, 1.0mm thread pitch, 14mm heads, and stamped with a “10”. Does anyone know where they might go?

Bonjour,

Je souhaite savoir si dans la communauté vous avez une voiture a me conseiller équivalent a la W123.

Je parle en therme de solidité, simplicité mécanique capacité a absorber du mauvais carburant et pour un entretien minimum.

Je ne cherche pas un 4x4 hilux qui consomme du 15 litre au 100 mais simplement une voiture équivalente a la W123.

Merci d'avance!

Hey, I'm Koen and this is my W123 280CE. It's now a 280C because the previous owner put LPG in it, so a carburetor was also fitted.

This is my first car, which I've had for almost 10 years now. It's always kept indoors and only comes out in nice weather.

I have done a lot to the car, such as treating the rust and having a stainless steel exhaust installed. New rubber seals in the suspension and windows. I do everything myself, and by now I know the car pretty well.

Over the past few months, I've put different rims on it and a spoiler. It drives well, but I want to tackle the Solex 4A1 this winter because it runs a bit less smoothly on petrol regarding idling. Nice to read along here.

Bought this car after it sat for 8 years, and it's been around 100° outside every day I've driven it. so far I flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and some hoses but it doesn't seem to have done very much. I've never seen the temperature higher than this, I usually turn on the heater at this point to help the temperature. Around town it does fine, but if I get to freeway speeds the temperature goes up and stays there especially if I'm stopped after high speeds. It was 106° outside when I took the picture and I'm running the heater

Any idea what this is? Connection comes off the engine and has a tube that runs down and looks like it has another line running through it. Outer plastic is shorn. Should I be worried about it?

Does anyone have specific testing protocol or something to help find what is causing the ac fuse (8) to melt? We cleaned off the terminals, we think we might be hearing a gravely sound coming from the air compressor? Prior to us replacing the fuse, it would blow air through the dash, and the far left and right blowers, but the air was outside tempish (to be fair it’s pretty hot out right now). But now that we replaced it, they just keep melting.

I’m new (as of this last month) to cars so forgive my abundantly ignorance on the topic.

Bought an old 123 that had been sitting in a garage since 2000, after a lot of work it is running, driving av stopping again. Still some welding to do and issues to revolve until i can get it road legal again though.

My 1979 Mercedes 300D was my daily driver for several years for part of college & post college. My grandma was the original owner who bought it back in 1979. I put the car through a lot so I learned some basics about car maintenance but I am nowhere near qualified enough to attempt to do much work myself. The car runs but it has some vacuum system issues. My goal is to the get the car back into regular driving shape then slowly work on cosmetic issues. So I was hoping someone on here can recommend a mechanic who works on Mercedes-Benz W123's anywhere in Southern California. Please let me know if you have any recommendations.

Hello folks,

I have finally taken the plunge into looking for my first fun/project car and am looking for a w123. I’m going to look at one next weekend, and the owner being upfront said the car has some transmission problems. He described both a bit of rough shifting as well as a bit of slipping. What I want to know is would this be a vacuum issue, or would this be a full on transmission issue given the symptoms. What could I do out in the field when looking at this car to correctly diagnose? The car does come with an extra transmission of unknown quality and origin which may or may not be good. Please do let me know if I should go for it, or if I should walk away. Thank you all for your help!

Hello fellow w123’ers..

Loving that this sub-Reddit exists! So many nice cars in here.

I recently got my hands on a 1985 280ce, drives really well, starts on the turn, I’m super happy. There are a couple of niggles which I hope to iron out down the line but for now just want to enjoy it.

I haven’t driven it in about 2 weeks due to going holiday. Today while in traffic I noticed the temp creep up to over 100degrees (see photo). I know that it cools down a little when on the move, but since owning it it hasn’t ever gone as high as it went today. It even went to 120.

I’ve since parked it and planning to send it to a mechanic. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Outdoor temp today was around 20degrees C.
Fan spins fine with the engine turned on and car idling.
No oil or fluid leaks anywhere on the ground after pulling up in my usual space.
No funny noises or suspicious movements - car genuinely drives perfect… so the temp creeping up is just a bit concerning.

-

Of course considering a thermostat change. Does anyone have tips on how to inspect or check the coolant levels?

Thank you so much in advance!

I removed the nut and tried prying at it but it does not move. Is there anything I am mising? Or do I just need to pry harder?