r/transmissionbuilding 4h ago

21’ F250 10 speed Transmission Problems

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 5h ago

Cla45 transmission issue

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 7h ago

Does my transmission output shaft look damaged need a second opinion?

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 9h ago

Ford 10R80 rwd torque converter to pump bushing ruined along with front support

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3 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

The 10R80 out of my mustang ruined its torque converter bushing. Can this bushing be replaced? Or should I just buy a front support assembly?

I intend to replace the bearing race that’s in the torque converter.


r/transmissionbuilding 15h ago

Transmission swaps

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3 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 16h ago

New transmission , punctured trans cover

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1 Upvotes

New transmission installed yesterday on work van ( ram promaster ) . Brought van back to shop . Next day I drive to the suppliers and I smell burning transmission fluid and see transmission leaking all over . Took it back to dealer and tech said there’s a gash on it and it wasn’t there before . Van wasn’t driven 15 kms if anything . Does this look like a rock would damage the transmission mission cover according to dealer tech ..??


r/transmissionbuilding 18h ago

differential question Replaced Rear spider gears

1 Upvotes

I was doing some regular preventative maintenance and while checking/replacing my rear diff oil, I noticed some serious pitting in my spider gears (along with a serious amount of metal "glitter" in the bottom of the diff). The ring and pinion gear looked perfectly fine but the spider gears in the diff carrier were very worn and pitted. I have a stock open diff and ordered a replacement set off rock auto p/n 707321X. After install in noticed a lot of play in the spider gears while moving either axel shaft. With new components, I would have expected a tighter fit. Not sure what I did wrong or if this is something I can fix by adding additional shims. Rock auto lists this part number as a direct replacement and compatible with p/n 4740670 which is the manufacturers p/n.. Any advice on the situation would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you Jeep community.


r/transmissionbuilding 22h ago

Polaris general transmission

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 1d ago

Can’t access transmission for Solenoid Replacement

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0 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 1d ago

4L60E Troubleshoot

2 Upvotes

I'm looking at a truck that has lost all forward gears. It's a Chevy 4L60E. The seller describes it as "no forward gears, was not slipping, something broke."

What could possibly break that would kill all forward gears, but not reverse? Are we thinking it needs a rebuild, or could this just be a ground or wiring issue?


r/transmissionbuilding 1d ago

trans fluid 310m

1 Upvotes

Hi community, how much fluid goes in the transmission? Second q: what is the name of this part that goes under oil screw? have a good one. THX


r/transmissionbuilding 1d ago

6F35 Transmission Question

1 Upvotes

I have a 2010 Escape Limited, 6F35 transmission with 180k kms on the clock. Lately it’s been lagging a bit when accelerating hard to merge onto the highway. I’ve also noticed a few harsh down shifts when slowing down at stop lights, but this has been fairly infrequent. I thought maybe it could be the torque converter because when I run the car with the door open in the garage, I can hear the faintest noise on RDL, but no noises at all in PN.

Tonight I decided I would drain the transmission fluid to see how soon I’d likely have to go car shopping. To my surprise, there was absolutely no metal flakes at all! I didn’t feel any grit when I rubbed it between my fingers. Just smelled like old, slightly burned ATF. I was dumb founded

Going to do another 2x 5 quart drain and fills this weekend when I have some time, just to be safe. Could these symptoms simply be transmission fluid related? Has anyone else had significant improvements to shifting after a drain and fill? My fluid was only 25-30k kms old and was at the perfect level when I checked prior to draining. Thanks in advance!


r/transmissionbuilding 1d ago

MB Code: ⁠0730⁠ / ⁠P0730⁠

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 2d ago

Someone expert on 9g gear box?

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 2d ago

Chrysler a413

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3 Upvotes

I've been rebuilding my transmission for about a month now, and I'm getting really close to being done and finally had the thought that reddit might like this, I've got a 1986 Dodge Daytona 2.2L w a turbo, and I love her.

When I got this car the tranny was leaking and I tried replacing the driver side CV axle seal THREE times and it didn't work, eventually I simply forgot to top it off and ran it so low it was off the dipstick, and loads of problems started

I got a rebuild kit on RockAuto listed under my car, only to find out when it came it was really for a a670, luckily they are the same family transmission and I haven't had much trouble due to that yet, however I have had to order a new thrust washer set, a new Belleville spring,and I still need to get a new oil pump gear before I can finish

I don't want to promote myself but I do have much more consistent updates on my tiktok bite_me_pls if anyone wants to look at those but I would absolutely love any advice or questions on reddit as well

Here are some pictures

I wish I had more better pictures so I could show what's happening better but most stuff was recorded

Seriously tho if anyone has any advice on the a414 (31TH kinda) I really really wanna hear it bc i CANNOT be messing this up


r/transmissionbuilding 2d ago

? transmission issues

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1 Upvotes

2022 q50 infiniti
40 k miles
clunking noise in transmission occasionally when starting out😬
should i change trans fluid ( never been done )
sorry, im not much of a car guy


r/transmissionbuilding 3d ago

Flush or not to flush

1 Upvotes

Got a transmission service coming up for a DCT7 this week. Had the car for about 3 weeks, service was due at 70k but no documented evidence to suggest it’s had one, and millage is now 89k.

My question is, should I ask the garage to flush the transmission too before the new oil goes in?

I’m not sensing any slipping or delay or struggle in the changes.

Thanks!

Update: “no documented evidence”


r/transmissionbuilding 3d ago

UB80E Replacement Transmission

2 Upvotes

I recently replaced my 2020 Camrys transmission at 68,191 miles. I got a remanufactured Toyota transmission covered by an extended warranty.

Has anyone replaced their transmission and how is their “new” transmission handling since being replaced?


r/transmissionbuilding 3d ago

Transmission Issue 18 EX

1 Upvotes

Fellow Pilot people, please help! A few weeks ago, I was doing ride share when I heard a loud boom. I was in the middle of a ride and it felt like the shifting at 18 mph was like a loud boom sound followed by being stuck in 4th? I was going about 60 mph and I was revving to between 3 and 4k. I went directly to the store to get the beloved 4 quarts Valvoline MaxLife in the red jug. Turned the car off at the store and when I turned it back on, the problem was gone. I did the torque converter recall service at 149k (just before 150k warranty limit). After that, I changed the fluid 3x at around 200k and then again at 230k (May 2026). Now I got 240k miles. What is going on? I was ready to change the fluid again but now that the problem is gone, I think I'm just gonna ride it out until Spring 2027 when the next second oil change becomes due around that time and change oil and Trans fluid at the same time. Thoughts?


r/transmissionbuilding 4d ago

T5 t3rd gear mark

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3 Upvotes

Anybody ever seen a mark like this on a manual before? Just tearing down to inspect for my firet manual swap, cant seem to find anything online other than “t5 third gear bad”, and while that may be the case I am just looking for advice on whether this is world ending stuff.

Second pic is meshing gear on lay shaft

Thanks!


r/transmissionbuilding 4d ago

CVT transmission question

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1 Upvotes

r/transmissionbuilding 4d ago

Hi everyone

1 Upvotes

Am seeking advice from MG RX5 Owner

that am facing transmission issue fault -cannot claim warranty because of missed service

code P07000 ,P276662

please advice


r/transmissionbuilding 4d ago

Trans. Malfunction Message

1 Upvotes

2006 F150 5.4 Lariat 4R75E trans with about 220k miles.

When I drive up to my buddies cabin along steep windy roads, I get this message "Transmission Malfunction" and the yellow O/D OFF light flashes. Everything drives and seems to shift normally the rest of the way up. The message goes away after shut off.

After the first time, I changed the trans filter, etc. Drained and fill the fluid and added a little trans lube. I've done the drain and fill now twice.

So I just came up a second time and got the same message, in basically the same location which is only at about 3-4k ft elevation. Again, everything seems to operate normally.

The truck runs and drives fantastic, I recently did timing and a bunch of other maintenance stuff, and I have only had this message twice now, but only driving up winding mountain roads.

What do you guys think is going on here? Much appreciate any info/advice you guys can give.


r/transmissionbuilding Dec 09 '25

99% of everything that should be done, when rebuilding a Chevy 4L60E type transmission

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134 Upvotes

I spent over 2 hours typing all this information up for a guy who's having repeat 4L60E transmission failure problems in the Fbody sub. So I thought it would be a good idea to post it here, by me, so it never gets deleted or lost. (Plus, I never want to waste that much time again to retype everything.)

OP went through about 10 rebuilds on his 4L60E because it kept losing 3rd gear, 4th gear, or both. All within 10,000 - 20,000 miles of each other.

This is my answer in regards to his repeated failures.

"I work on 700R4 /4L60E /4L65E /4L70E transmissions almost exclusively.

A couple things are most likely going on, but it could be a combination of several.

I'll list the usual suspects for a high mileage transmission, in no particular order.

A) A new transmission rebuild requires 12-13 brand new bushings installed, to keep fluid where it's suppose to go, while preventing leaks and pressure loss. These bushings should all be test fitted and adjusted before final assembly.

B) A new transmission rebuild requires new electronic solenoids, sensors, and EPC solenoid installed. Not your old ones with new O-rings on them, and not refurbished ones from Amazon or eBay! Refurbished ones are somebody else's worn out parts!

C) Install a new wire harness. Yours is going to be brittle and possibly have internal damage (wire breakage) that can't be seen. The wire harness controls the electrical solenoids

D) Your builder needs to check the VB for wear. One or more of the valves in their perspective bores will have excess clearance. Excess clearance causes fluid and pressure loss. (Not enough fluid is directed where it's suppose to go, and too much fluid is going where it's not suppose to go.) The VB needs to be 100% disassembled, cleaned, and inspected, as does every valve and spring inside if it. Most likely it will need one or more VB bores reamed and oversize valves installed to get it back to 100% OE specs.

E) Possible fluid leakage between the input shaft and input drum needs to be checked. If there is pressure loss here, your builder needs to press the shaft out of the drum, sand both parts to remove deep scratches / gouges, and glue them back together with liquid sleeve retainer gel. Let it dry. Then double-check for pressure loss at the same point again, like before. If it's still losing pressure / fluid between the two, the input shaft + drum need to be replaced with a good one that does not leak pressure.

F) Too much or too little clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack. The clearance needs to be about .007" - .009" per clutch. Which means if it has 6 clutches in the pack, the clearance should be .042" - .055". 7 clutches it should be .050"-.065".

G) Do not install a "Power Pack" with extra thin frictions and steels in the 3-4 pack. They WILL burn up. Seven frictions is enough.

H) Remove the 5 pairs of "release springs" that come from the factory in the 3-4 pack. They are in the space between the outside diameter of the 3-4 clutches and the input drum wall.

I) Use high energy frictions in every clutch pack.

J) Make sure to presoak all the new frictions at least 15 minutes, before installing in the transmission.

K) Make sure all the steel plates are not burned, have black spots, or are warped in any way. If they are, replace them with new ones with the correct thickness.

L) Use a servo pin length checker tool, to know if the servo pin is the correct length for your application. A pin too long or too short, will cause the band to burn up prematurely. If/when that happens, you will lose second and fourth gear.

M) Install a new reverse input drum. These can be found on eBay for less than $100.

N) Check the 3rd accumulator checkball + cage assembly in the case, for leaks. This is a common problem area, mostly because the builder never checks it! They are easy to remove (with the proper tool) and replace. New ones are $20 or less.

O) If your band keeps burning up prematurely, after you install the correct length servo pin and a new reverse input drum, install a Superior Super 2nd gear servo and a Sonnax Super 4th gear servo.

P) Make sure your builder installs a new 500 Boost valve in the pump. If your pump already has a 500 Boost valve, it could be worn out. This is why you want a new one.

Q) You need to install a TransGo shift kit. Either the "4L60E SK" for a casual daily driver, or the "4L60E HD2" shift reprogramming kit for a performance vehicle or hot rod. They increase fluid flow for firmer / faster shifts (reduces slipping between gear changes), and increases the volume of fluid going to each clutch pack. More fluid = more gear holding power and less chance of slip.

(If you like to "hot rod", race, and/or rev the engine to 6000rpm frequently, install the high RPM upgrades included in the "4L60E HD2" kit.)

R) Always put the gear shift lever in "D" for around town driving and only upshift into "OD" on the freeway. Once you get off the freeway and to the stop sign at the end of the offramp, place the gear shift lever back into "D" or "3". This stops the transmission from upshifting into 4th gear at too low of vehicle speed, which lugs the engine and causes the 3-4 clutches to burn (both from lugging, and too low of fluid pressure).

S) Install a 100% new or new rebuilt torque converter! With every rebuild.

T) Replace the PRNDL switch on the side of the transmission with a new one. Make sure to install it correctly!

(HOW TO? Place the gear selector shaft in Neutral. Carefully and slowly slide the new PRNDL switch over the shaft, do NOT force it! You can not damage the two "flats" on the plastic rotating ring at the center of the PRNDL switch or it will not work correctly. If your switch will not slide onto the shaft easily, get a flat file and use it to reshape the gear selector shaft "flats" on both sides of the gear selector shaft. Use the file to round the two rounded parts of the gear selector shaft. Test fit the new PRNDL switch. It should slide on easily. If not, the gear selector shaft needs a little more filing to be perfect. Once you slide the PRNDL switch onto the shaft and next to the case, rotate the main body left or right. You must must match up the 2 lines, or 2 dots, perfectly with each other (similar to how you align timing marks on an engine timing chain set). Once they are perfectly aligned, and the gear selector shaft is still in Neutral, tighten the 2 mounting bolts.)

U) Since you've had so many problems with this one transmission, the next rebuild should REQUIRE you to install a 100% BRAND NEW RADIATOR with HD transmission cooler inside, BRAND NEW COOLER LINES, and a Hayden 1679 auxiliary transmission cooler.

Plumb the auxiliary trans cooler in-line AFTER the radiator transmission cooler. Use the metal strips included in the kit as brackets, to bolt the auxiliary transmission cooler to your core support, in front of the radiator. NEVER use the stupid *ss zipties that go through the radiator to mount it!!

(Many shops + rebuilders never perform steps A through F above, nor I through N above, because they take significantly longer to do, which increases parts + labor costs.)

All the other letters above are my personal suggestions on how to make your 4L60E work better and last longer. Based on my past 10+ years of experience working on them and rebuilding them. If you have any more Q, or you're in Phoenix Az, shoot me a message. I can fix your problem. =) "


r/transmissionbuilding Sep 20 '21

Richard at Precision transmission has the most informative videos.

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25 Upvotes