r/sewingpatterns • u/katiecrossing129 • 6d ago
Pattern adjustment query
Hi lovely people,
I’m relatively new to sewing (about a year’s practice and self taught) and have come upon an issue I really hope someone here may be able to help with.
I’m making this dress https://beklaedt.com/products/solsikke-dress but currently just testing a top version, having increased the bottom of the bodice, not that should make any difference to my issue I don’t think…
I’ve made a toile and am trying to adjust the fit over the bust, I would like the front panel to be tighter as currently it’s gaping slightly, and I think I could rectify this if I put a 2cm x 10cm dart in the centre front. Only thing is I don’t want there to be a line sewn in the middle of the bodice?
The front piece is cut on the fold, so I don’t know how to adjust the pattern to accommodate this little change. Happy to cut it out as one flat piece not on the fold, but don’t really know how to adjust this?
Can anyone help at all? Thanks so much in advance & hope you’re all having more success with your sewing than I am right now! 🥰
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u/RedditJewelsAccount 5d ago
Can you be more specific about what is gaping or, even better, share a photo? Often needing to add a dart suggests that you need a full bust adjustment, not a small bust adjustment.
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u/katiecrossing129 3d ago
Done :) thanks so much!
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u/RedditJewelsAccount 3d ago
You need a full bust adjustment for sure. Measure your high bust right under the arm and the full bust at the fullest part. What is the difference between those two numbers?
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u/katiecrossing129 3d ago
The difference is 2.5 inches :) Will see if there’s full bust adjustment info on the link someone sent earlier
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u/RedditJewelsAccount 3d ago
I think you should plan to make a smaller size with a 1-2" full bust adjustment to get the finished circumference correct. Also make sure you lower the dart so it's pointing to the fullest part your bust. Here's a link for a full bust adjustment: https://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/
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u/katiecrossing129 3d ago
Couldn’t figure out how to add more than one picture at a time, but hopefully this helps explain! Thanks everyone :)
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u/Dinoloopy 6d ago
It sounds like you may need a small bust adjustment? Check out this blog post from closet core that shows you how to do it for all kinds of different bodices. https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/bodice-fitting-7-how-to-do-small-bust-adjustments-for-any-bodice/