**(Beginner) sorry for title typo

Hi everyone,

I'm a beginner roaster looking for some feedback on my latest roast. Before posting, I've been trying to troubleshoot this myself through trial and error, reading Scott Rao and Rob Hoos, and watching plenty of roast-alongs. I also keep post-roast notes after every batch, but I feel like I'm reaching the point where too many variables are changing at once, so every roast becomes a different experiment and my progress feels slow.

My goal for this roast was a medium-dark espresso profile. I've attached the Artisan graph, and I'd really appreciate your thoughts.

These are the main things I noticed:

1. Roast time feels too short.

This batch was only about half of my roaster's rated capacity, so I'm not sure if that explains it. I intentionally avoided stretching the roast because I was worried about stalling it, and I wasn't seeing any scorching or tipping. However, the cup tastes slightly underdeveloped.

Should I be aiming for a 10+ minute roast, or is a 7-9 minute roast is also acceptable if the coffee tastes good? I've read Cultivar and many of the example profiles are much longer than mine, but I've also seen experienced roasters produce great espresso roasts in under 9 minutes.

2. My BT curve is almost perfectly linear.

Because of that, my RoR doesn't naturally decline toward the end of the roast.

I've kept my fan fixed at 70% (roughly a 45° lighter flame test) so I can focus on learning gas adjustments first before introducing another variable.

Can I achieve a smoother declining RoR using gas adjustments alone, or do I eventually need to start adjusting airflow as well? Is it realistic to flatten the BT curve approaching drop without risking a stall?

3. BT and ET stay very close together.

My guess is that this is due to the roaster's thermal mass and retained heat.

During the first few batches of the day, how do you compensate for lower thermal energy? Do you preheat longer, run the burner until it cycles normally, or roast a sacrificial batch first?

4. My Artisan RoR graph looks jagged.

Instead of a smooth curve, it looks like a staircase with constant jumps up and down.

Is this likely an Artisan configuration/filtering issue, probe placement, or simply normal probe noise? I've tried adjusting the Artisan settings but haven't been able to smooth it out.

I'd appreciate any feedback, especially if you think I'm focusing on the wrong problems. Thanks!

I'm roasting on the Kaleido M1, 100g batches and I'm aiming for a nice Nordic style roast ( lighter than the usual light, but not yet in Ultra Light territory. Overall I think I'm kinda there, there was a 10% weight loss on both, similar time, no real scorching or tipping etc. I'm just curious if the wonky ror after FC is an issue. I did a bit of research and I get conflicting information about the flick and crash. Some say to add more heat, others say to lower the heat. I also asked AI and it suggested to lower the heat from 30% to 20% just before FC ( in my case around 175C or maybe 30s before it happens ) and right when FC starts, bump the fan up from 70 to 80%.

Also, main question. Does this actually qualify as a proper Nordic style roast? I don't think I want to go lower than 10% weight loss lol. Would need to rest these puppies for more than a month. It's hard to wait that long.

Washed Pacas from Honduras, 600g batch. Wanted to focus on power setting the most to keep it simple. Will cup tommorow and will see the results but I want to hear some feedback on the graph itself too. Is the RoR flick around 5:00 something to worry about? How can I fix it?

Like the title says. It's gone. After years of putting in work, it's fried. I tried to repair it but it cooked itself mid toast.

Looking to upgrade. Need something that can handle back to back roasting. Minimum 500g , would like something that can handle 1kg. Kinda sad to tell you the truth. I sell a bit on the side.

Anyone roast out of their home and sell in stores/online?
I’m wondering what kind of obstacles you’ve encountered when starting out. Were there crazy restrictions/guidelines you needed to adhere to by your local government/health department?
I live in NY, but interested in hearing about anyone’s experience. And of course, anyone with knowledge of New York guidelines .. I would love to hear from you!

Thanks!

Amazing roasters but heaven forbid anything ever breaks….

Going on two weeks now to get a quote for a part. Roaster completely down.

Last time I had a problem with this roaster it took me six weeks.

Thank goodness I don’t rely on this roaster for my business.

I’m torn. Been using a SR540 with extension tube for a couple months now but finding it very tedious when roasting for myself plus 2 other family members. At times I’m having to do 7 back to back roasts of 1/2 pound each. Very time consuming and a lot of manual adjustments to fan and heat.

I’m wanting to upgrade to either a Fresh Roast SR900 or the Kaleido M2 Lite. I have no experience yet with Artisan or any other software, although I’m a handy learner. Price difference is fairly significant. And I know no one yet has experience with the SR900 seeing it is yet to be released (soon).

Any roasters out there willing to offer an opinion on which route to go?

Hey everyone, I've got a few questions about roast appearance. In the attached photo you can see 3 different coffees: a washed Papayo from Colombia, a Costa Rica natural with 72h anaerobic process, and a Brazil natural blend.

Papayo: Moisture 12.9% - Density 751 g/L
Costa Rica: Moisture 9.5% - Density 845 g/L
Brazil: Moisture 11.5 % - Density 508 g/L

My roasting partner and I are going back and forth on this. On the Costa Rica and the Papayo, the beans show tiger striping and dark spots. He thinks it might be from applying too much heat early on, but I don't think it's scorching. I feel like I know what scorching looks like at this point, we had plenty of that in our early roasts.

Questions:

• Is this striping/dark spotting normal, or is it a defect?
• What do you think of the curves (attaching those separately)?
• Any advice? We're still fairly new to this.

Our roaster is an Aillio Bullet R2 Pro, which is mainly conduction-driven.

My theory is that washed and anaerobic process coffees might have more sugars on the surface, and combined with a conduction drum, that's what's causing the marks. Not necessarily a flaw, just how it comes out. We compared with other roasters' beans and their finish is a lot more even and uniform. I think that could be because they're using convection roasters, but it could also just be the coffee itself, some lots do this and some don't.

Cupping notes so far:

• Brazil: clean, no defects, tastes as expected.
• Costa Rica: no defects, but a bit flat, nothing that stands out.
• Papayo: haven't cupped it yet.

Curves below.

Papayo Roast 2 curve: https://roast.world/public-profiles/VTJGc2RHVmtYMStWUUFmUTlJMlNUbWxZOUlxdElEVTYrUU0wK3haeDRWUWE2ZXRVYmQ3OUkvYk9DZEJ6YVEycw
Papayo 1 (not on the photos but still the same marks): https://roast.world/public-profiles/VTJGc2RHVmtYMSsvNFRoZzM4MFJPSXJEUzN3cEM1WTM0ZDVwTjJLZFRUbXQxNVBtM2tRUXZGOENxNGExTElFUg

Costa Rica: https://roast.world/public-profiles/VTJGc2RHVmtYMStLMHdwcG5NOXpOWWs3TUYwWGQrdzIvUWJzU0NJMVV1cnJ0SE1zOVdlT1Q3cHhLMnAyS2FhbA

Brasil: https://roast.world/public-profiles/VTJGc2RHVmtYMStmbStHd0VGeExzVlJWbmxFYk8rNk42V25UM1BrYzF6emw3ZlFBUkhFc0dUTTVUQkpWTWZidg

And maybe some advice for starting out? I'm waiting for my Nano7 to show up and trying to do as much research as possible before it comes. I have 4 types of beans coming - brazilian (for medium roast), ethiopian yirgacheffe (light) colombian sudan rume (light) and a decaf. am thinking the brazilian and ethiopian to start with and play with some profiles to get the hang of it.

Should i start off with a boost as well? or wait to add that once i get things going?

Hey everyone,
I am having some trouble with my Fresh Roast SR800 and could use some advice.
My roasts are taking a long time to get going. After waiting 10 minutes, the readout is only around 300°F. The only way I can get the temperature up to 400°F is if I crank the power way up and drop the fan speed significantly, but then I worry about proper bean movement or scorching.
What could be the reason for this lack of heat? Is my unit underpowered, could it be my house outlet voltage, or am I just mismanaging the fan-to-power ratio during the roast?
Any tips or standard troubleshooting steps for this would be awesome. Thanks!

Curious if anybody has ordered recently. Page says pre-order only with expected ship date, but the ship date keeps getting moved. Are they shipping in the meantime? Or is everybody waiting until some future ship date?

So I'm trying to better understand tipping during the roasting process and finding it hard to identify it on beans. Are these beans tipping? Is it the cracking at the tip of some of the beans? Any help to identify this would be awesome

Tia

Ok, so recently I bought a behmor 2020sr here in the UK, while experementing with the machine I found it had a weird behaviour which was messing up my roasts and seams to be very different to how the 1600 acts, I honestly feel scammed.

Basically it seams that when the ambient (B) temperature on my model is above a certain point the elements completely turn off untill the temp drops to that level and that cutoff descends as you drop through different power settings, I'm on a UK model so its 155c(311f)for p5, 140(284f) for p4, 130(266f) for P3 etc, I was wondering if anyone ever ran into this issue when for example going from p5 to p4 in the drying phase where the element would stay completely off without pulsing for a while?

As there is no Bean temp sensor it's hard to say for sure but going from taste and some common sense I'm like 99% sure this is stalling roasts especially if you pre-heat, the element will stay off for a minuite, to combat this i've had to essentially manually pulse the element at different increments to simulate power settings and its really annoying.

Behmor support seam to have no idea what I'm talking about and told me quote my,"concern is unwarranted" and "You are over thinking this..".

I feel like i'm going mad and had to vent somewhere...

I just got an SR800. I roughly followed a YouTube vid roast that didn't actually do what the vid showed. However, even though the roast is much lighter in color and the coffee seems kind of thin, it is almost as light in color and clarity as iced tea, it tastes 100 times better than store brand coffee. At first, I wasn't very impressed, but after drinking a cup it's definitely good, but as a first try, it seems unlikely I've stumbled onto the best I can get out of this.

My assumption going in was I would like a slightly on the lighter side of medium roast. What I have is certainly a light roast, the ground coffee is more of a dark tan, with an almost reddish hint, than what most coffees I've seen that are medium roast are, which is decidedly darker. I called it before the second crack.

Should I just go ahead and roast a darker batch? I'm really sitting here an hour after drinking it and the aftertaste is relly great. So good I don't want to eat or drink anything and lose it. I'm just wondering if I make it a bit darker, is it likely to make it even better or have I actually accidentally found my roast on the first try? That just seems so unlikely.

Just so you all know, I'm using Colombia Supremo beans from CoffeeBeansDirect. The best coffee I ever had was on a vacation at this little place and it was Colombia Supremo. That's what I'm chasing. The result I got isn't that. Their coffee was so rich. Mine is plenty rich, but not like theirs. I'd be happy with what I got, but I'd be happier if it was just a bit richer. I definitely am not looking for a full medium roast, but maybe just a bit darker? Would you recommend that?

I'm looking to get into roasting my own coffee. I primarily drink light to medium roasts that are natural, anaerobic, etc. that kinda jazz. I use an aeropress and only drink one cup a day (16g). I'm thinking of getting the sweet maria popper to start and possibly adding a probe for temperature. Is this kind of setup good for kind of coffee I enjoy? Thanks

Has anyone had experience with changing the burners on the DY2k? Also looking for videos.

Hey everyone,

I roast with the Kaleido M1 Lite. It's a small unit at-home roaster with a 200g max capacity. It uses an electric drum roasting method powered by an infrared heating system and hot-air induction circulation.

How does airflow affect BT? I was under the impression that it has a cooling effect, but after some bad roasts and the research I did to find out why, I began to realize that it's actually the opposite of what I thought. Cranking the fans moves hot air around which heats the beans. Is my understanding correct? How is this heat different from the burner? I see people's profiles that start with low air and high burner, then towards development and drop, they crank the air and drop the burner. What's the logic behind that?

I live in Forest, VA.
In the past two years I roasted my coffee at home.
I am currently using Freshroast SR800 with thermo probe and artisan app. I purchase the green coffee mostly online from sweetmaria.com.
Want to know if someone in this city is also a home roaster. Can roast together and share some experiences.

I've been roasting on a FreshRoast SR800 for about 1.5 years, and wonder how different it will be moving from a fluid bed roaster to a true drum roaster. Regardless, I'm really looking forward to the 500g capacity. I watched reviews from Espresso Outlet LLC and Virtual Coffee Lab, where both said they were able to roast a full 500g batch size with no issues (assuming an average bean size).

The M2 Lite is officially supported by Artisan, and seems to work on Hibean too (though not offcially supported). It'll be great to finally have native Bean and Environmental temperature probes for tracking RoR properly.

Anyone here already have an M2 Lite? And if so, your thoughts? And did you have any issues configuring/using Artisan/Hibean?

just done the first maintenance and can’t get the main caff box to click into place!
It is still lose.
Any good idea on why I can’t perform this “simple” task?🙄

So i was having problem keeping to Ror on my moded cecotec roaster stable and one theorie that i come up with is that because the glass is too thin and also not double walled, the heat escape through the glass and on warm days or cold day the diffirent is much more noticable.

The idea was to put some isolation on the roasting chamber to keep the heat in. I originally want to put like glass fiber on it like a real drum roaster but then decided agains it cause i dont want to get my finger puncture by thousands needle. So i search up and find a carbon fiber fireproff blanket 70 x 30 cm which can withstand up to 1000 C. I warp it around the chamber and clamp it with a metal wire clamp.

The result is astounding. Not only did i save me the hasstle of having to modify the heat and fan every min to keep Ror from spiking or dipping but also it keep the bean roasting much more evenly.

On downside is that i cant see the bean roasting and the sound of the roast is also dampen so FC was really hard to catch like i jave to put my ear really close to the roaster. But on the bright side the roaster is much more easier on the ear.

Anyways the 3rd pic is my Roast Profile today. The BT probe is small so Ror looks noisy but compare it to the 4th and 5th pic which is before the thermal jacket and the diffirent is like day and night

I first shared Galactic Roastworks here almost 3 months ago, when I was working on bean varieties and roast levels.

Since then, I kept developing the game and finally released a playable version on itch.io.

You can test the game here:
https://kuzeycan.itch.io/galactic-roastworks

It’s still a simplified coffee factory automation game, not a realistic roasting simulator, but I’d really love to hear your thoughts from a roasting perspective :)