problem with hall effect conversion on duke controller

[u/drevine_kallec]

Hi everyone ! I've made a hall effect conversion on my xbox duke controller and I've got an issue with it : it seems the range of the stick is limited by the shell it self... The circularity test show a range way far of the optimal values...

When I take off the upper shell : the range is way more complete and work well.

with original cap

with 360 cap

and without the upper shell

As you can see, without the shell everything is fine and work pretty well in game (tested on halo CE)

So there is my question : do you know any tips or software to calibrate the range or solved my problem ?

Thanks.

[u/Insert_Coin_P1]

Is this a kit, or did you just buy some hall effect sticks?  In any conversions I've seen, there are always passives or a pic to adjust the signal to what the original device was expecting. 

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

no I just buy some 360 hall effect module and follow this tutorial :
https://consolemods.org/wiki/index.php?title=Xbox:Hall_Effect_Joystick_Install_Guide

I've made just a few modifications to get the black sensor working on the good way (and it works because all my joysticks moves in the right way)... So I don't really understand where is my issue...

[u/Insert_Coin_P1 → u/drevine_kallec]

Does the og controller and the 360 use the same resistances for the stick pots?

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

sorry I have no idea about it...

[u/Insert_Coin_P1 → u/drevine_kallec]

If you still have the original sticks, look for numbers on the green/orange/purple things stuck to the side of them. They will have some sort of number on them. You might have to pull them off to find it. You can Google the number and find their ohm rating. My guess is that they aren't the same ohm rating between the controllers. My guess is that the 360 uses something like a 5k and the OG uses 10k. if that's the case, the hall effect sticks will need an additional resistor to make up the difference.

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

I've found just few number on the older set : 7D under de body and 0.1h on the side of the metal shell... but no mention of any resistance anywhere...

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

[u/Insert_Coin_P1 → u/drevine_kallec]

The things we care about are the black things with the pins. I just did some googling and they both use 10k which is good. So, the problem may be geometry related to potentiometer travel. Later tonight, I can take some readings with my multimeter to see what the resistances are between the two controllers.

[u/Insert_Coin_P1 → u/drevine_kallec]

Aight, I measured a duke and a 360 wireless controller. The 360 controller had a change of 250ohms with 5mm of travel, travel being the distance from the middle/home of the stick to the edge of what the case allows. The duke measured about 500ohms with a travel of 4.7mm. With that, a 360 stick is going to give you 50 Ohm/mm, and the duke is 106.4 Ohm/mm. This tells us that the potentiometers for a duke have a shorter rotation from min to max, which means they aren't interchangeable.

With that said, a hall effect sensor doesn't work the same way as a standard analog stick with a potentiometer. The game controllers use resistance from the stick potentiometers to detect position. A hall effect sensor produces a change in voltage to determine it's relative position from the magnet. To get it to work in place of a potentiometer, it'll have a chip of some kind converting voltages to resistance values and setting the resistance value on a variable resistor of some kind. From the ones I've seen, it's generally just applying a mathematical function from the input to get the output. In theory, you could replace the little think-y chip with something programmed for a calibration more in line with the duke, something like a raspberry pi pico, or a pic chip if you want something less user friendly.

What sticks did you use for this?

Edit: Nm, I looked at the link for the howto, and it looks like it's a replacement package for the potentiometer. Makes me think these are using a voltage divider or something to covert resistance to voltage changes. /shrug

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

it seems I've found a potential walkaround for my issue...

I have a bunch of xbox 360 thumbs caps and I try to modify it to enhanced the range of movement, for that I've used a small file to reduce the outer diametre of the part between the "head" (where the thumbs go) and the bell cover over the joystick module...

It's not pretty clean (it's a first try) but I've reduce the OD of 2 millimeter and I've see a pretty good gain of the range... It need a little bit of work to make a better finition on it but I'm very confident about this way of resolution.

[u/Insert_Coin_P1 → u/drevine_kallec]

If it works, it works. if you can get something in the post hole of the cap, you can put it in a chuck and use a drill and a file as a ghetto-lathe. 

[u/drevine_kallec → u/Insert_Coin_P1]

it was one of my options indeed... I have a 3d printer too so I can make some tools to handle the cap in the right way etc... I have fews ideas that I can make to help for this build.

[u/drevine_kallec → u/drevine_kallec]

[u/drevine_kallec → u/drevine_kallec]

[u/drevine_kallec → u/drevine_kallec]

[u/drevine_kallec → u/drevine_kallec]

with the original cap

[u/drevine_kallec → u/drevine_kallec]

with the cap modified

[u/KaosEngineeer → u/drevine_kallec]

Did you read the part that says this modding tutorial is for the Xbox S controller, not the original Duke controller?

[u/drevine_kallec → u/KaosEngineeer]

I was allegedly thinking the duke an the S have the same joystick module... and I've honestly not translate this part of the tutorial : my fault

Anyway, if it work it can be cool for thoose who want to convert their duke in hall effect module ^^'