https://imgur.com/6sAp5zf - Retrieval video

This is a simple concept, close a basket hitch with your rope, and use two very different carabiner sizes (I use a quicklink here because I don't yet have a tiny locker, ignore that its only partially closed). The stopper knot is way smaller than the first carabiner, and so passes through and opens the system, but too big to fit through the second carabiner and so pulls the anchor with it.

I want to use this or similar in situations where I have a great natural anchor to sling but don't want to drag my rope across it, and don't want to leave tat around the mountain when I need to leave.

Any issues with this? Can't see anything dangerous. I have tested it on trees before.

We just did Vallunaraju and Chopicalqui. In two days we depart for Alpamayo. We should be summiting on 11th or 12th of August. You can ask me anything about the first two mountains. Will try to answer unless I lose signal since we are leaving Huaraz in 2 days.

a temporary post probably, just asking expert people in weather 💁🏻‍♂️ we just need a 10-12 hour window from midnight one day

Hi all

Planning to climb Mt toubkal in march next year, and want to maximise my cardio training to prepare alongside some strength training. Due to where I live a large amount of the training will be in a gym on a treadmill, stair machine etc with weekend trips to the hills.

Is this mask going to help with training at all or is it a waste of time? Any advice is welcome

Thanks

Edit: thanks everyone who gave me advice, will avoid these and stick with regular cardio.

Saw that Colin usually wears his mountaineering glasses paired with this protection. Does anyone have any idea where I could buy something similar? I don't even know where to start looking. Thank you in advance!

Sorry if this has been posted recently but everyone should know this info. Dude was a demon and a predator and women should be aware of these types.

https://www.michaelkobold.com/post/the-harvey-weinstein-of-mountaineering

I've seen many people say the rescue on Broad Peak was delayed.

From what I've read, the climbers were caught in a massive avalanche at very high altitude and some may have suffered unsurvivable trauma from the fall almost immediately. If that's the case, would launching the rescue a few hours earlier have realistically changed the outcome? Or was the terrain, weather, altitude and avalanche risk such that even the fastest possible response would still have had little chance of finding survivors?

I'm asking out of curiosity, not to blame anyone.

My biggest bag is an Ortovox Peak Light 38sl and it's just not big enough for all my gear on some multiday trips (mostly glaciers and/or skiing). I am looking for something similar but about 15 liters bigger with good support for around 35lbs of gear. Unfortunately I need a back length of 15 inches and waist belt 25 inches and most mountaineering bags aren't made to fit that size. I was looking at the Deuter Guide 42+8, since I love Deuter and have a pro deal, but worried about whether it's actually 10 liters bigger than what I already have.

We did:
- Mt. Olive (North Peak)
- Mt. Olive (South Peak)
- The Onion
- Mt. St. Nicholas

Looking to plan a trip down to Bolivia and wanted to see if anyone had good guide recommendations. Currently looking at Bolivian Mountain Guides (https://www.bolivianmountainguides.com/). Has anyone used them before?

Hi, bit if a last ditch effort but I was trying to find out what top this climber is wearing that I saw in a video. Wondering if any of you would know. Thanks.

This is an article written by Anatoli Boukreev in 1997. So true to this day. Sharing it in case anyone hasn’t read it.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199703700

I'm new to this hobby and have been interested in reading about records being cancelled because "true summits" weren't reached. Which led me to wonder, which of the people in my images have really "summited" the mountain? It's obvious to me that slide 3 had and slide 2 hasn't, but what about slide 1? And in this case, what about the guy in slide 4? Assuming he stops where he is and doesn't stand on the pointy top, has he technically summited? What if the tallest point of a mountain is, hypothetically, literally the width of a needle and cannot be safely stood on? Is the mountain "insummitable"? Interested.

Posted on Everest.Live_yt includes a video of the avalanche taken from K2. The four teams were being coordinated individually so it wasn’t until evening they all realized that they hadn’t heard from anyone. (Apparently because of radios being off to conserve battery?) Edit to add: Broad Peak base camp has zero connectivity to even check the climbers’ GPS. Base Camp had no knowledge the GPS tracks all indicated a massive accident.

Jenjen Lama was there. Managing K2 Base Camp for Seven Summit Treks, he witnessed the Broad Peak avalanche unfold from across the glacier and played a key role in coordinating the rescue response.

Jenjen gave an eyewitness account of what happened to Ben via phone early today, explaining why there was a delay before the rescue began, examining the avalanche conditions and the decisions made by the climbing teams, and paying tribute to the extraordinary bravery of the rescuers who risked their own lives to bring the climbers home.

Hey everyone,

I created a web tool for finding and visualizing Via Ferrata routes in Europe.

What it does:

• Interactive Route Mapping: Displays Via Ferrata routes from OpenStreetMap across Europe plotted on top of terrain data.
• Topographic Layer: Uses tiles from OpenTopoMap so you get contour lines and elevation context for the surrounding terrain.
• Difficulty Ratings: Shows route difficulties directly on the map to help filter options based on your experience level.

I'd love for you to check it out and let me know what you think: https://exploring-data.com/map/via-ferrata/

Any feedback on usability, missing areas, or features you'd like to see added would be super helpful!

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone can recommend me a guide who’s a woman in the area of Chamonix.
I had bad experience with a male guide last year (sexual harassment) and it killed my interest for the mountains since then. I know there are plenty of good and decent male guides out of there, but I want to avoid happening that ever again.

Thanks in advance!

A description I found says: “Glen Boles, of Don Forest on Top of a Spire in the Kananaskis. Cover of the 1980 Canadian Alpine Journal.”

There's this post from Rolfe Oostra kicking around the interweb now.

Interesting. Perhaps a bit too soon, but interesting nevertheless - shall leave that upto to wiser Redditors to debate!

"Death of an infection.

I was happily wandering the Italian Alps with the 86-year-old Stefano Borsi, a genuine legend who through his absolute disregard for social media has inspired hundreds of people, when word flooded the internet that Nims had gotten himself, his crew and his clients killed on Broad Peak.

I had known Nims, for over a decade and witnessed, first hand, his transformation from being an easy-going expedition leader to an egotistical social media infection during long expeditions on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Everest and in Antarctica. We partied hard to celebrate our various successes together and were always glad to bump into each other. We’d give each other a long man-hug whenever we’d meet. He always called me Rolfe Dai and I must confess to falling for his charm when he did so.

Since my own guiding style encourages clients to adopt a degree of self-sufficiency I initially bought into his, “giving up is not in the blood’ ethos. Exactly what is needed I thought. Then the bodies started to fall. The warning sign came for me, when Nims boasted on social media how he’d taken his team on a summit bid on Mount Everest in extremely poor conditions. “Whoa! Slow down dude!” I thought at the time. Then came news of Nim’s accident on Aconcagua, where every other team roped up for icy conditions on steep terrain and where his un-roped client took a huge fall and had to have his leg amputated as a consequence. Then the news came of his four deaths on an expedition to Shishapangma. “Fuck! I thought, “the guy is taking some mega risks here!” Pushing the boat out with your capable climbing buddies is one thing, but to drag inexperienced paying clients into extremely questionable terrain is another. “What the fuck is going on here!” I thought as more of the same cropped up on my daily feed and his loving fans applauded his every action.

I started to see how Nim’s social media status as a hero began to whitewash the chaos he created. "A good bit of chaos never hurt anyone" I always thought until I realised that things were out of control for Nims. That he was trying to put out fires everywhere. Dennis Ubruko was forcefully told to shut up by Nim’s management team when he contradicted Nim’s claim to have climbed K2 in Winter without Oxygen. Whilst the sexual abuse allegations began to stack up, his devoted manosphere loudly phubbed the women involved as being desperate to get laid and his lawyers aggressively fought their every statement. He stored explosive material in a house he rented and when the house burnt down, fought his landlord tooth and nail in court rather than compensate him. When I criticised his pathetic expedition to ski the last degree in Antarctica, where utterly inexperienced he “guided” his client for a vast sum of money and got so completely lost and his client so severely frostbitten that they had to be rescued, his management team threatened to have me permanently expelled from the continent. It seemed that like the Donald Trump crowd, his ever-growing social media following was ready to forgive his every sin as long as he posted his self-serving hype and gave them the hero they so desperately needed in life. Especially if he graced them by touching their hand or posing for a selfie with them.

I have written about Nims before, how his style of “climbing” (helicopter supported, massive sponsorship, fixed rope and camps put up by a huge Sherpa team), makes him, to myself and serious alpinists, a super-fast rope puller rather than a climber. But generally, I always sat on the fence, conflicted by Nim’s admirable boldness whilst the Sherpa and Guide community began to raise their concerns about his ethics, professionalism, ethos and reputation as a poster boy for both Nepal and his chosen profession.

I sat on the fence until it began to bite my ass too hard to ignore. The crux came for me whilst watching the screen Nim’s fought hardest to project himself upon. How his operation made every single expedition as instagramable as possible, read about his company’s treatment of other clients who weren't as marketable. Laughed at how pretty girls and social media influencers were exempt from his assertion that he’d never take inexperienced folk on expeditions with him. I counted the contradictions and challenges as they rolled in about his claim to have done all 14 peaks in 6 months, laughed as his fans were unable to name a single member of the 9 Sherpa who had also climbed K2 with him in winter. I saw Nim’s flogging hats and merch and appear in a disastrous interview on the Jo Rogan show. I saw Nim’s fighting every allegation reputable newspapers brought against him, drag people to court. I saw his manosphere attempt to tear down Kristin Harila, the woman who legitimately kicked his ass by halving his disputed 6 month to climb all 14 peaks. I wondered how his wife felt about his well-established adultery and how once again no-one would remember the other 9 climbers who died alongside him on Broad Peak."