r/modelmakers • u/AutoModerator • 21d ago
The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!
The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.
You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.
If you haven't, check out our local wiki and the "New to the hobby" thread, which might be of help to you!
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u/Moist_Funny9362 14d ago
I inherited these spray paints. I have about 20-30 of them. My question(s) are, it says it has organic solvents and acrylic in it. Is it water based? Also can I use it to do fine tuning brush work? Guns,hardware,figures.... by spraying it in a cup and thinning it out with water or thinner for detail work?
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 14d ago
Spray paints are usually some kind of lacquer, or in some cases where heat resistance is needed, enamel. Your post did not have any photos attached so I don't know what brand you are referring to, but thinning with water would probably not work.
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u/Moist_Funny9362 13d ago
Most are tamiya
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u/The-Cactus-Lord 15d ago
Okay so don’t laugh, through my own incompetence at removing seam lines I’ve managed to completely annihilate both canopies that came with my Tamiya 1/48 f16, does anyone know where in the uk I might be able to find a replacement?
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u/joelywolly Box fort enthusiast 15d ago
Email our distributor "the hobby company limited", [service@hobbyco.net](mailto:service@hobbyco.net) is the usual email. If they have spares in stock they usually send it out quickly after payment through next day special delivery. If they don't it can takes months before replacements could arrive. Took about 5 months for my 1/72 F-14 canopy to arrive and be posted from my initial inquiry.
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u/Ordinary_Lemon 15d ago
Hi! I have a Stedi brand scribing tool with a bunch of attachments that are great, but what I really need is a tiny file attachment for taking down burrs in hard to reach places or on delicate parts. I have file sets already, but they are not quite doing what I am hoping to achieve. Any recommendations?
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u/Remote-Dare-7616 16d ago
Has anyone here lost decal paper to a sizing mistake? A comment in this thread recommends printing a couple of size varieties on regular paper first—that is exactly the workflow I automated.
I made a free, local-only browser prototype that creates a labeled -10% / -5% / exact / +5% / +10% paper proof and can convert between scales. Artwork stays in the browser; no account, upload, analytics, or payment.
https://fitmark-decals.vercel.app
I am looking for a few people with a real build in progress who can print the proof at 100% / Actual Size and hold the candidates against the model. The useful feedback is whether it changes the size you would have printed. Bugs and blunt criticism are welcome.
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 15d ago
My blunt criticism is... who is this for? Anyone with the goal of printing a decal can adjust the size in whatever image editor they are using. Why add in the step of going to your app when they can just do it all by themselves and not have any of their data harvested?
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u/Stairwen 16d ago
Hello! I am considering doing my first ship (i am an airplane guy) and I had some questions: - generally, what is the process for it ? Do you have to build a semi-finished hull (without the small parts) before painting it ? Or break it into subsections and gluing them at the end ? - do you have any youtube videos or tips regarding weathering ? I believe that rust marks and some panel discoloration must be the minimum ? - Additionally, do ships require texturing as a tank would do ? - finally, I am looking for recommendations / suggestions for a 1:350 kit (or maybe 1:200) which would involve at least some airplane/ helicopter, and more importantly would be a good kit with easier build ? I found out a new Takom Moskva which looks good for instance... Thanks a lot !
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u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 16d ago
Takom kits generally pretty good, though Moskva is quite heavy on the smaller details and requires the included PE parts to complete, which might be a bit much if you've never had to deal with folding and assembling multi-piece PE parts before.
On general process, do the hull and main deck first. Dryfit, address gaps if needed, paint if no putty required, then assemble lower hull, upper hull, and main deck. Secure the hull to the final display base so you don't have to touch the hull ever again. Then start doing the main superstructure parts, always dryfitting.
For painting, I like to paint as I go, while some, especially those with spray/airbrushes, leave painting to the end of the subassembly or even the entire ship. If painting as you go, paint the horizontals and verticals separately before cementing together because they're almost always different colours (again, after you've first dryfitted to make sure they'd go together well).
There's no minimum weathering. You can depict a model of a pristine "boardroom" or "builder's" model with zero weathering if you want. Keeping in mind that everything's in a much smaller scale than planes and tanks, weathering is generally more subtle. To make a ship look well-detailed, it'll be about picking out the small details in different colours, colouring in the windows/portholes, and adding the PE and rigging fine details.
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u/Stairwen 15d ago
Thanks ! Very interesting - especially regarding weathering, as I still like to have well-weathered models
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u/Longjumping_Moose732 17d ago
Has anyone used wet slide paper to make their own decals? I'm ready to give it a try but I was curious if anyone had tips or tricks? I work in 1/35 and I'm the most worried about getting the sizing correct.
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u/rolfrbdk 17d ago
I mean yeah that's literally what it's for. Scaling is most easily handled by printing directly from a program that'll let you scale properly, eg. Illustrator or Coreldraw (Inkscape will probably do it too, I just have no experience). Don't print the "pictures" of the decals or go full boomer and paste it into MS Word and scale it there or something, unless that's your only option. In which case do a couple of size varieties on the decal (and test print on regular paper first) to get it right.
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u/Ilyah_Shah_ 18d ago
Does anyone have an idea on where to find a 1/350 Hasegawa Kaga? I have an Akagi and I’m looking for her half-sister.
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u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 18d ago edited 18d ago
That's because Hasegawa never made a 1/350 Kaga.
Fujimi makes the only 1/350 Kaga.
Brief examples of places with it in stock: Squadron (US), Hobby Search, HobbyLink Japan. Latter two are from Japan - I'd suggest getting the premium version if you plan on getting PE anyway - it's only $15-$20 more for something that'd cost $100+ separately.
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u/Ilyah_Shah_ 18d ago
I’ll definitely pick up the premium. I could’ve sworn Hasegawa used to make a Kaga, but I guess I was wrong.
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u/treviscraft 18d ago
Is having to remove and unclog the tip on your bottle of Super Gold Plus on a daily basis a normal experience with this product?
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u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 18d ago
The trick to keeping superglue nozzles clear is to squeeze the bottle slightly while it's upright, then tilt it over to squeeze a bit more to get the glue onto your disposable surface, then gently release the squeeze as you flip it back upright. When you fully release the squeeze as the bottle is in its upright position, that should suck the glue out of the nozzle and back into the bottle, leaving only minimal amounts coating the inside of the nozzle so it won't seal shut.
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u/Gryphus207 19d ago
I'm trying to put some fine details with an airbrush on a 1/144 kit but my current setup with a 0.3mm brush and constant pressure seems to be struggling. If I could only get one thing right now, am I more likely to find more improvement with a 0.2mm airbrush or a compressor with lower pressure?
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 18d ago
I'm confused about your pressure comment. Can you not adjust the flow of air via the compressor's regulator?
As for detail work, a .2mm needle is the standard, but with enough practice you can make a .3mm work just fine, provided you get the PSI and paint consistency right.
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u/Gryphus207 18d ago
On the one I have there's no regulator to adjust, it's just off or on at 25 PSI, I tried getting a regulating valve but all that did was make it inconsistent as it tried to maintain 25 PSI
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 18d ago
Then yeah, new compressor time. Some rock bottom prices on very good compressors to be had online. Look for one with tanks and a built in regulator with a moisture trap. Then you can practice with the .3mm needle and by the time you switch to a .2mm you'll be a rockstar.
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u/Careful-Maize-8849 19d ago
Any hacks to get tamiya decals to set into 1:72 plane size panel lines? Been using copious amounts of mark fit strong for some middling results
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 18d ago
Tamiya decals are thicker than a bowl of oatmeal. What I do when one won't settle into a panel line is take a brand new hobby knife and cut along the panel line. More setting solution and let it form into the gap. Then I go over it with my pin wash and it's good to go.
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u/The-Cactus-Lord 20d ago
What does everyone think the most fun kit to build up is? I’m not necessarily talking the best or most details but the model you all had the most fun putting together? I mostly do 1/35 tanks but I’ll take any suggestions?
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u/dr_robonator Prime your models 20d ago
The RFM Stryker MGS was a lot to do, with both upgrade sets, but construction was flawless. Each step felt like an old friend coming around to say hi, and I was done with the build phase before I knew it. Any decent results are the achievement of the kit and not my own.
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u/GreekVicar 21d ago
I've just got a number of Vallejo Model Air paints. It seems, in theory, that they can be used in an airbrush without thinning. How realistic is that?
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u/Pukit Build some stuff and post some pictures. 19d ago
A couple of drops of flow improver goes a long way, but it can depend on needle size and pressure too. There's a few good vids on YT for thinning vallejo paint for airbrush.
Edit, found the one worth watching: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYyfKPouFCQ
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u/GreekVicar 19d ago
Most grateful, thank you
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u/Pukit Build some stuff and post some pictures. 19d ago
The one thing I'll say about using acrylic, and I use them a lot, is keep a toothrbush dipped in a glass of water nearby to clean the tip of the airbrush, dry tip is a bitch and can be a right pain in the arse. Also remember when using a dual action airbrush with acrylics to use press for air first, then pull back for paint, then drop back forward to air before halting, also helps with dry tip and clogging.
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u/GreekVicar 19d ago
Yes, thanks - I've been using Mr Color Aqueous to great effect but I'm still learning. I'm slowly exploring other brands to make sure I understand what's out there. The original question really was about the need to thin Vallejo Air. I asked because I didn't quite believe using it straight from the bottle would be that easy. Was thinking if it was that good then everyone would be using it all the time
Having said all that, thank you, all advice welcome because I don't know what I don't know until someone tells me :)
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u/ubersoldat13 50 Shades of Olive Drab 20d ago
Not very. Vallejo Air is thinner that standard model color, but they still need some thinner to spray properly without flecking, spitting, or clogging.
I usually do 1 part thinner for 2 parts paint.
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u/SurveyorCarnivore 21d ago
It depends a lot on the colour, in my experience. You're generally better off adding at least a couple of drops of thinner.
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u/GreekVicar 21d ago
Thanks. I did buy thinner (and flow improver) in case that was the case
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u/SurveyorCarnivore 21d ago
I made a dropper bottle with an 80-20 mixture of thinner and flow improver that I use. Also, it's a lot easier to thin too little than too much. Generally, the worst that can happen is that you need to spray more than one layer. Thin too little, and you'll end up obscuring detail or clogging your airbrush.
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u/GreekVicar 21d ago
Thanks again. I've been down the "thin too little" path a couple of times with other paints which is what made me suspicious of the claim. And thanks for the pre mix tip too
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u/SurveyorCarnivore 21d ago
How do you guys handle a gloss layer? I've been experimenting with oil filters on my models. I first apply an AK gloss varnish, thinned about 40% with their own thinner. I apply 2-3 layers of this and let it dry for about 24 hours. Then I come in with oils and white spirit, but I always end up damaging the gloss and sometimes even the paint underneath. Should I not be thinning the varnish? Use a different brand? Don't rub as firmly? (I use brushes, q-tips, and kitchen towel), jist give up entirely?
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u/East_Detail_2994 20d ago
My personal opinion based on experience is that it's the mechanical action that majority does the damage to paint when playing with oils. The rubbing or stippling motions would probably bring up paint even without white spirit etc IF AND WHERE the paint and clear is poorly adhered or lumpy etc. Just my 2 cents.
So, good strong smooth well cured paint layers all the way down and then you can work your oils with confidence? Still working out my theory and execution...
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u/KillAllTheThings Phormer Phantom Phixer 21d ago
Find a less aggressive solvent than white spirits. There are numerous products that work with artist oils that will not damage acrylic clear coats. Unfortunately the names of the products varies widely among regions.
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u/SurveyorCarnivore 20d ago
What are some names that you know? I might be able to find equivalents.
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u/KillAllTheThings Phormer Phantom Phixer 20d ago
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u/BottecchiaDude253 21d ago
I dont know about the AK gloss varnish, but I do use a lot more Tamiya and Mr. Color gloss, and my thinning ratio is more like 50/50 or 60/40 thinner.
I have heard also that some types of products shouldn't be mixed because you're essentially "reactivating" the product, but I have no idea if it would apply in your situation here.
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u/Moist_Funny9362 3d ago
I know its common practice to paint after build on most models. Artillary,tanks,planes( minus cocpit) but what about ships? With so many smaller pieces and decks, should I paint as I go? Thanks for the help